What's Eric Eating Episode 126

How a favorite food truck stuck in Houston, plus a Midtown bar find

On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Sticky's Chicken co-founder Patsy Vivares joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss her business' recent transition from food truck to brick and mortar restaurant. The conversation begins with Vivares explaining how she and her brother Benson got into the food business and used their father's sauce recipe to build a devoted following.

Sticky's counts several local celebrities among its fan. Vivares shares stories of her interactions with actress/model Karreuche Tran, hip-hop star Bun B, and Texans star DeAndre Hopkins.

In order to grow their business, the Vivares siblings partnered with California restaurateur Andy Nguyen and chef Michael Pham, who developed a number of new dishes for the menu. What will diners find as an alternative to Sticky's signature chicken and rice?

"Of course, a chicken sandwich. The surprise one, we're going to add a burger. Mike said not everyone is going to want to eat chicken," Vivares says. "I'm really excited about the salad. When I'm working the truck, sometimes you don't have time to get food . . . it's nice to have actual salad in the prep fridge."

Prior to Vivares joining the show, Sandler and co-host Felice Sloan of Swanky Maven discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Beaver's suddenly closing; Yauatcha's plans to close next month; and Conservatory and Prohibition relocating from downtown to EaDo.

In the restaurants of the week segment, they discuss their visits to Tejas Burger Joint in Tomball and Lost & Found, the colorful new patio bar that just opened in Midtown.

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Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

Patsy Vivares of Sticky's Chicken is this week's guest.

Sticky's Chicken/Facebook

Patsy Vivares of Sticky's Chicken is this week's guest.

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Bernadine's Revived?

Houston chef takes flight with new Gulf Coast seafood spot in the Heights

Southern Smoke Festival 2022 Graham Laborde Paige Gallaspy Laborde

Photo by Emily Jaschke

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Everything old is new again for Graham Laborde. The chef, a co-owner of Midtown sandwich favorite Winnie’s, will open a new, Gulf Coast-inspired seafood restaurant in the Heights called Little Bird.

If that sounds familiar, it’s because Laborde once led Bernadine’s, a “love letter” to Gulf Coast cuisine that operated in the Heights from 2015 until 2017. While Little Bird is a distinct restaurant with its own identity, diners with a long enough memory will certainly see some commonalities between the two restaurants.

“I’m a firm believer in playing to my strengths, I don’t think any of the cooking I’ve done either at Bernadine’s or Winnie’s or Little Bird, which you’ll soon see, does anything but play to my strengths,” Laborde tells CultureMap. You can’t change who you are. This is the cuisine I know and love. It’s what I’m best at. I’m excited to do it.”

Laborde has claimed the former Flying Fish/The Kid space (1815 N. Durham) for Little Bird, which is just around the corner from where Bernadine’s used to be (it’s now Star Rover). Plans call for about 150 seats, private dining rooms, and an air-conditioned patio. Details include a hand-carved wooden oyster bar and a mural by Houston artists Whitney Garrett-Yarbrough and Dayle Booth.

The menu is still under development, but don’t be surprised if at least a couple of Bernadine’s dishes show up. “I’ve grown a lot over the last 10 years. I think that my style, my palate has grown a lot, too. The menu is a work in progress, but I’m excited to hammer it out,” he says.

Adding to the “getting the band back together” vibe are some of the people helping Laborde bring Little Bird to life. Julia Doran, who served as Bernadine’s pastry chef before a length stint at Nancy’s Hustle and Tiny Champions, is consulting on the dessert program. Chelsea Thomas, formerly Bernadine’s assistant general manager, will serve as general manager at the new restaurant (full disclosure: Thomas is a regular contributor to CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast). Bartender Justin Ware, director of operations for Winnie’s, Johnny’s Gold Brick, and Starduster Lounge, will oversee Little Bird’s beverage offerings.

The chef is excited to be back in the Heights, a neighborhood he knows well.

“I first moved to the Heights straight from New Orleans. I noticed Heights Blvd had a middle ground. It made the transition so much easier,” Laborde says. “I’ve lived in the Heights and Garden Oaks for 16 years. It’s my home. I’m thrilled to be back here.”

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