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    Eat Your Heart Out

    Recipes to warm the heart: Local chefs send their cold-weather comfort food

    Sarah Rufca
    Jan 8, 2010 | 12:00 am
    • Tony's chili with toppings
      Photo by Shelby Hodge
    • From Eddie V's, Butternut Squash and Lobster Soup
    • Cafe Chino's Wonton Soup, created by Chef May Chan, along with a fantastic crabroll

    It's the time of year when the best dinners are made with love and served at home. Give the dining scene (and Takeout Taxi) a night off and break out the cookware and the nice china. Need inspiration? We asked chefs at some of the best places around town for their favorite cold-weather recipes, and they delivered. Go ahead, try on your own chef's hat. If it doesn't turn out how you hope, the real deal is just a short drive away.

    Part I: Soups & Stews: Warm, soothing, and sometimes deceptively complex, soup is the ultimate meal when the temperature drops.

    Eddie V's Roasted Butternut Squash and Lobster Soup, from Scottsdale executive chef Brian Feirstein

    INGREDIENTS:
    (For the lobster milk)
    6-8 each lobster bodies
    2 cups of brandy
    1 gallon of whole milk
    ½ gallon of heavy cream
    ½ cup of blended oil

    (For the Butternut Squash Soup)
    6-8 each butternut squash peeled and seeded
    2 cups of brandy
    3 each shallots (sliced thin)
    Salt and pepper to taste
    ½ Tbsp of ground nutmeg
    2 Tbsp of blended oil
    Lobster milk

    PREPARATION:

    (For the Lobster Milk)
    Heat oil in heavy bottom stock pot
    Add lobster bodies and cook until bright red.
    A nice fond should develop on the bottom of the pan, once it does deglaze it with brandy.
    Make sure brandy is added off of the heat to avoid it from catching on fire.
    Reduce brandy to au sec.
    Add in dairy and bring to a boil.
    Remove from heat and allow it to steep for 45 min.
    While milk is steeping, proceed to butternut squash.

    (For the Butternut Squash Soup)
    Cut peeled and seeded squash into large dice.
    Heat a heavy bottom sauce pot and add oil.
    Add shallots and sweat.
    Once soft, add in squash, and season with salt and pepper to caramelize.
    Once the orange color is achieved, deglaze with brandy and reduce to au sec.
    Add nutmeg and lobster milk.
    Cook until squash is soft.
    Blend until smooth adjusting the seasoning as needed.

    Café Chino's Wonton Soup, by chef May Chan

    INGREDIENTS:
    ½ lb. ground chicken
    1 Tbsp green onion (green part only)
    Salt & pepper
    Couple drops of soy sauce
    Good chicken stock
    Dash of sesame oil and soy sauce
    1 package wonton wrap

    PREPARATION:
    Mix first 4 things together and wrap the wonton like ravioli
    Cook in salt boiling water for 3-5 min. or until done
    Cook the chicken stock, salt and pepper, sesame oil and soy sauce
    Put the wonton in a bowl and serve with hot soup
    Add green onion or any cooked vegetable as you like to the soup

    Tony's Signature Chili, by owner Tony Vallone

    (Though not technically a recipe, Tony gave us the how-to behind one of his most popular dishes: try to recreate it or grab it to-go from the man himself.)

    Begin by trimming off all fat—Tony uses only prime beef
    Part of the meat is ground and part is left in stew-meat-type chunks
    Saute it
    Thoroughly saute onions and garlic
    Combine that with the meat with cumin, chili powder, a touch of oregano
    Add a bit of water, add Italian tomatoes blended well, salt and pepper to taste
    Simmer on the lowest flame possible for two hours after having brought the mixture to a light roll
    Serve with cheese, red onions, jalapeños and homemade tortilla chips

    Prego's Smoked Butternut and Apple Soup, by executive chef John Wyatt

    INGREDIENTS:
    18 ounces butternut squash, halved and seeded (save seeds and parings)
    2 cloves garlic, chopped
    4 parsley sprigs
    Greens of one leek, washed and chopped
    1 carrot, peeled and chopped
    1 celery rib, chopped
    ½ chopped onion
    6 ounces Granny Smith apples, peeled cored and chopped
    ¼ ounce jalepeno peppers, seeded and minced
    17 ounces water
    Sachet (1 bay leaf, 5 sprigs fresh thyme and 1 tablespoon white peppercorns tied in cheesecloth bag)
    2 ounces dry sherry
    ½ tablespoon salt
    ¼ teaspoon white pepper

    PREPARATION:
    Smoke half of the squash halves for 20 minutes.
    Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
    Remove squash from smoker and place with remaining squash halves in a flat pan, cut side down.
    Bake until soft, approximately 30 minutes.
    Scoop out pulp and set aside.
    Combine garlic, leek greens, squash seeds & parings & parsley with water.
    Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes.
    Strain.
    Sweat carrots, onion, celery, jalepeño, and apple in their own juices in a soup.
    Add squash pulp, stock, wine and sachet, Simmer for approximately 45 minutes or until flavors mellow.
    Remove sachet.
    Pour into blender and blend until very smooth.
    Return to saucepan and reheat.
    Add salt and pepper.

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 523 and 524

    Acclaimed Austin duo dish on their wine-obsessed neighborhood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Jan 16, 2026 | 1:08 pm
    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel
    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly
    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel and beverage director Arjav Ezekiel join CultureMap Houston editor Eric Sandler to discuss their Austin restaurant Birdie’s.



    Widely considered one of Austin’s top restaurants, Birdie’s has earned local, regional, and national acclaim, including a place of the 2025 Time100 Next list, Food & Wine magazine’s 2023 Restaurant of the Year, and a 2025 James Beard Award for Outstanding Professional in Beverage Service to Ezekiel. In a 2024 column, James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd recommended that Houstonians visit Birdie’s the next time they’re in Austin.

    Sandler’s conversation with the duo begins with a little bit about how they met while working together in New York and their decision to move to Austin. From there, it turns to Birdie’s counter service model that’s unusual for a restaurant of its quality. Sandler asks whether not offering traditional table service has lowered the restaurant’s profits.

    “It’s the opposite. Because we have a leaner labor force in the dining room, our margins are probably double what they would be if we were a traditional restaurant,” Ezekiel explains. “What we’re able to do is take a portion of that margin and invest it back into our team. We talk about ‘Conscious Capitalism’ a lot. That extra margin pays for paid family leave that we offer to everybody on our team, the month of paid and planned vacation every year, the subsidized health insurance, the subsidized mental therapy we offer. We needed to find more change under the cushions, so we could invest it back into our team.”

    Initially, Birdie’s opened with an a la carte menu. In 2025, it switched to a prix fixe format that offers diners six courses for $80. The switch means the restaurant serves fewer diners per night, which has shortened the wait to order from up to an hour to 20 minutes or less. Chef Malechek-Ezekiel explains that this change has also expanded the range of dishes she’s able to serve and broadened the techniques she uses to create them.

    “We can cook fish confit. We can use the Japanese robata grill to cook on charcoal. We can hot smoke fish to order. Now, I feel like, wow, look what we can do now. Before, we had the skills, but we couldn’t physically do it with how tiny our space is.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about how Birdie’s guides diners through its wine list, which of the monthly prix fixe menus has been the most successful, and the couple’s thoughts on potentially opening a new restaurant.



    In this week’s other episode, Craft Pita chef-owner Raffi Nasr joins Sandler to discuss some recent news in the world of Houston restaurants. Their topics include Tex-Mex restaurant Superica transforming into a casual steakhouse; the imminent opening of delivery-focused Shredders Pizza; and a change in operations at Weights + Measures.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Nasr and Sandler describe their recent meal at Oru, a new sushi restaurant in the Heights from the team behind Michelin-recognized omakase counter Neo and Upper Kirby hand roll concept Kira. Listen to hear their favorite dishes as well as Sandler’s quibbles with a couple of aspects of the experience.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Birdie's Arjav Ezekiel Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel

    Photo by Mackenzie Smith Kelly

    Birdie's owners Arjav Ezekiel and chef Tracy Malechek-Ezekiel are this week's guests.

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