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MFAH's Peacock regales with ravishing, royal, must-see Indian treasures

Tarra Gaines
Mar 8, 2018 | 2:43 pm

Indian art from an Indian point of view. Five years ago, this became one of the organizing tenets when the Museum of Fine Arts first partnered with the Mehrangarh Museum Trust of Jodhpur to bring Houston the momentous exhibition Peacock in the Desert: The Royal Arts of Jodhpur, India.

“It was conceived and executed by Indian nationals and that to us was an important component of this project. There have been beautiful exhibitions of Indian art in the west but they are inevitably seen from a western lens, a western perspective,” explained MFAH director Gary Tinterow at a recent preview walkthrough of this exhibition that he calls “one of the most spectacular ever organized by any museum anywhere.”

The expansive exhibition chronicling 500 years of art and culture from the kingdom of Marwar-Jodhpur, one of the largest princely states in India, contains 250 objects of Indian courtly life, many of which have never left the northwestern state of Rajasthan, India, until now.


Along for this preview journey through the centuries that Peacock in the Desert explores, were two individuals whose initiative contributed so greatly to the project: His Highness Maharaja Gaj Singh II and his daughter Baijilal Shivranjani Rajye, the princess royal.

“It’s thanks very much to the generosity of His Highness the Maharaja, who literally opened up all his reserves and resources and said: Take what you want. Do what you will. Make as splendid an exhibition as you possibly can,” described Tinterow.

Containing intricate paintings, jewelry, textiles, arms, armor and several modes of travel including a World War II era airplane, splendid seems an apt description for Peacock in the Desert, but I would also add vast in its scope.

It contains so many objects of beauty it calls for return visits, but for that first look, here’s a guide to the vibrant sights and colors as the MFAH brings the desert to Bayou City.

Sweeping history
While each object holds its own beauty and unique story, viewed as a whole they tell a tale of the Jodhpur region, its history culture and the Rathore dynasty that ruled it for centuries. Through the paintings, arms, tents, clothes and jewelry, we learn of the rise of the Rathore clan and later the conquest by the Mughal rulers, as well as the regional conflicts and the alliances brokered between peoples.

“Our royal history is the history of my country. It is a microcosm of what all India is. It was the royal houses of India that kept our traditions alive,” explains Dr. Mahrukh Tarapor, senior advisor for international initiatives at the Museum of Fine Arts, a member of the curating team that organized the exhibition. Tarapor also noted that those traditions later survived British occupation thanks in part to the royal houses.

A family saga
“Basically it’s the story of my family,” said the Maharaja of the exhibition, as he wandered amid the treasures: the furniture, weapons, decorative arts, paintings and carpets once held by and even walked upon by his ancestors. The final gallery even holds large portraits of the more recent members of the line, including his great, great grandfather, and he can still tell stories passed down through the 20th century of the men who ruled but later evolved and changed during India’s turbulent eras.

Nobility’s artful mobility
According to Dr. Karni Singh Jasol, director of the Mehrangarh Museum Trust, the maharajas led lives always on the move, and the exhibition proves no matter the century, they always hit the road, and later the air, in style. From the first gallery and the ornate wood and glass Mahadol (palanquin) that took 12 singing men (synchronizing their steps through song) to lift the king within, to a custom-made Rolls-Royce Phantom and Stinson L-5 Sentinel in the final gallery, Peacock in the Desert illustrates it was good to be a king when journeying through India.

Perhaps one of the most spectacular pieces in the exhibition is the 17th-century Lal Dera tent that helped bring the majesty of the court along with the maharaja whenever and wherever he traveled.


A woman’s place
The third gallery and its paintings of women participating in festivals, hunts and polo tournaments; gifts for a royal bride and even clubs women used for exercise and military training, all depict life within the zenana, the women’s wing of a Rathore palace where the royal ladies wielded their own power.

“They had very strong position in the royal court and in policy making,” explained our authority on royal women, the princess herself, Baijilal Shivranjani Rajye, noting “how strong they were in defining policy and the future of the kingdom.”

Royal collectors
While many of the objects come from the Mehrangarh Museum Trust and and the private collections of the royal family of Jodhpur, don’t be surprised to see other kings and queens getting in on the lending action.

Look for beautiful jewelry and textiles, including a floor mat woven out of ivory and silver, on loan from the The al-Sabah Collection, an organization of the Kuwait royal family, and several painted illustrations from another just as royal collection, that of Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II. The watercolor works on paper from the Padshahnama (Book of Emperors) were commissioned by Mughal Emperor Shah-Jahan, a bit of luminous art as PR from the 17th century.

Taken together the exhibition illustrates that while kingdoms rise and fall, with good stewardship and patronage, art will survive.

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Peacock in the Desert: The Royal Arts of Jodhpur, India is on view now through August 19, 2018. The exhibition is ticketed, but does not require a timed reservation.

Ali, Maharaja Takhat Singh on a Hunt with Royal Women (detail), Jodhpur, c. 1853, opaque watercolor and gold on paper, Mehrangarh Museum Trust.

MFAH: Peacock in the Desert, Hunt with Royal Women
Photo by Neil Greentree
Ali, Maharaja Takhat Singh on a Hunt with Royal Women (detail), Jodhpur, c. 1853, opaque watercolor and gold on paper, Mehrangarh Museum Trust.
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honoring the past

Houston museum's new project preserves historic Freedmen's Town bricks

Emily Cotton
Jun 19, 2026 | 12:00 pm
Freedmen's Town Rebirth in Action pavilion rendering
Rendering courtesy of Studio Zewde
Rebirth in Action is set to open in 2027.

As Houstonians come together to celebrate Juneteenth, it’s jarring to think that this day of celebration has only been a federally-recognized holiday since 2021. After all, it was in 1865 that U.S Major General Gordon Granger arrived in Galveston on June 19 to enforce the Emancipation Proclamation of 1863. After this event many formerly enslaved Black Americans made their way to Houston, establishing what is now Houston’s very first Heritage District, known as Freedmen’s Town.

Now, the robust Houston Freedmen’s Town Conservancy, in partnership with the Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, and Mount Horeb Church, are working with the City of Houston on a long overdue project, Rebirth in Action, to honor this historic site. Designed by artist Theaster Gates in partnership with landscape architect Sara Zewde, the monumental pavilion will temporarily house more than 20,000 historic bricks previously removed and preserved from Houston’s Freedmen’s Town. Houston Mayor John Whitmire attended the groundbreaking, which took place last month.

While many people recognize Galveston as the site of the first Juneteenth celebrations, both of those took place on January 1, to honor the Emancipation Proclamation. However, recent research by Mary Gibbs Jones Professor of Humanities at Rice University W. Caleb McDaniel, has uncovered that the first official Juneteenth celebration was led by two ministers, Sandy Parker and Elias Dibble, right in Freedmen’s Town in 1866. McDaniel’s fascinating article will appear in the next issue of the Journal of Texas History.

Freedmen’s Town, established in 1865 by over 1,000 newly-free Black Houstonians following Juneteenth, has significantly dwindled in recent years due to systematic reductions in resources, despite its initial 500+ historic structures, including churches, schools, and cultural institutions. Rebirth in Action aims to preserve and promote the neighborhood as a monument of Black community, agency, and heritage.

“The work of the Contemporary Arts Museum Houston is to utilize our museum as a platform for resources sharing; a platform for unearthing new conversations around gems in our city that are also right down the street,” explains Ryan Dennis, co-director and chief curator for the Contemporary Arts Museum Houston. “Artists have different practices and artists like Theaster [Gates] can really help understand preservation conditions and needs of community, revitalization, and bringing resources together to better serve a neighborhood and realize optimal benefits, particularly antiquities like the bricks in Freedman’s Town that have been taken out of the neighborhood, displaced in other areas of Houston, and not in the home where they were originally created, paid for, and laid down in (by formerly enslaved individuals), which is Freedmen’s Town.”

The first phase of Rebirth in Action involved artistic activations (including Gates’ exhibition The Gift and The Renege in 2024), artist residencies, community and stakeholder meetings, and the identification, cataloging, and preservation of over 20,000 historic bricks. The pavilion will encourage public viewing of these historic bricks and serve as a hub for engagement with the history, cultural significance, and future of Freedmen’s Town. Additionally, Hines Architecture + Design will rehabilitate three row houses into an adjoining community center.

“I think the whole project is one that’s quite interesting, useful, and productive. I think it’s important for us to think about how we can use our resources to accomplish the things that build collective wellness — right? Wellness in the space of really preserving our communities that have been disinvested in, elevating the real gems of our city,” says Dennis. “We can do that through collaborations and partnerships; we are much stronger when we can do that with others, versus by ourselves, and I think this project really speaks to that ethos.”

Phase Two has been made possible by Mount Horeb Church’s continued stewardship of both land and existing historic structures in Freedmen’s Town. The project will include an arts pavilion and community green space designed by Sara Zewde, with an installation by renowned artist Theaster Gates, plus three historic structures redesigned and restored by Daimian Hines Architecture + Design for adaptive reuse as a food pantry and community garden, after-school programming, and senior services for Mount Horeb Church, who will guide programming and operations.

The art installation will display the original Freedmen’s Town bricks that once lined the streets, giving visitors a chance to experience their significance firsthand. Working with the City of Houston and the North Houston Highway Improvement Program that will reconnect Freedmen’s Town to downtown, Phase Three will see these bricks returned to the streets in a pedestrian promenade capacity. Subsequently, the pavilion will showcase rotating artist activations.

“The Brick Pavilion for Freedmen’s Town is a project that is deeply resonant for me,” shares Gates. “In part, because there are several opportunities to cultivate community and institutional trust, to create an additional neighborhood heart, and to invest in more beauty for this hugely important district of Houston.”

Landscape architect Sara Zewde's pavilion, gardens, and landscape design will help centralize all facets of Rebirth in Action, creating a community hub: “Studio Zewde's collaboration with Theaster Gates began with a shared belief that the future of Freedmen's Town must be rooted in the wisdom of the community that built it,” she writes in an email. “The pavilion and landscape draw inspiration from the neighborhood's tradition of shared backyards that connected the community across property lines. The project builds on this inheritance by forming a shared landscape at the center of the sacred bricks and their pavilion, the restored row houses, the Freedmen's Town Conservancy Visitor Center, and Mount Horeb Baptist Church.”

Architect Daimian Hines credits Reverend Dr. Smith of Mount Horeb Church for the continued stewardship of the land and notes that Dr. Smith oftentimes remarks that the holding of the land has been a form of resistance, the act of holding the land keeping outsiders from contributing to the erasure of Freedmen’s Town and its history.

“The fact that these three houses, and more in the community, that these post-emancipation structures still exist, it wasn’t for a lack of community pressure. It was a combination of efforts by folks like Dr. Smith, who were resisting [gentrification] through ownership,” explains Hines.

“Some of the ownership of some of these properties are so complex, it was difficult for potential buyers [developers] to actually get ownership of some of these structures—I consider that sheer luck.”

Hines worked closely with the Houston Archeological and Historic Commission to propose rehabilitating, modifying, and even relocating the row houses a mere 15 feet. The gabled, cottage-style row houses date back to the late 19th century. These post-emancipation row houses were built by formerly-enslaved, new residents of Houston.

“We wanted to think through: ‘what was the original story, how did the front of the houses and the back of these structures — what role did they play in day-to-day life?’ We were able to make some strategic moves to bring that to the forefront again,” Hines says. “The Rebirth in Action project and the houses are part of a broader preservation goal within the community to not just preserve, but to reuse either for housing, or — in this case — adaptive reuse as a community space.”

Hines notes that one of the row houses is of double-door configuration. This typology signifies that it was most likely a boarding house in its prime, a time when Black Americans weren’t welcome in downtown hotels. The two front doors let travelers know that they were welcome to rent a safe place to stay. Together, the three row houses will offer approximately 3,200-3,600 square feet of space, plus a large back porch that will face the pavilion.

As resources were often few and far between in post-emancipation Freedmen’s Town, the cladding on row houses was patchwork in appearance, as purchasing gaps meant that continuing on with the same materials was unlikely. Regardless, these homes were remarkably well constructed, with solid wood, wooden dowels, and shiplap interior walls. These construction methods, along with allowances for airflow, contributed significantly to their preservation.

“The one thing about these structures is, that as robust as they are, they have taken a beating,” says Hines. “The actual wood, the detailing, a lot of that has been lost, but these structures tell a story. This is a project I knew I wanted to be personally involved in, and my firm. [The structures] will be able to continue telling a story and play an active role in that community, and that’s why I’m excited.”

Freedmen's Town Rebirth in Action pavilion rendering

Rendering courtesy of Studio Zewde

Rebirth in Action is set to open in 2027.

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