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    One Fifth Update

    A Fine chef picked for Houston's most anticipated new restaurant amid changes at longtime favorite

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 15, 2016 | 11:08 am

    Of all the restaurants slated to open between now and Super Bowl LI, none are more eagerly anticipated than One Fifth. James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd's follow up to Underbelly will change concepts annually for five years, starting with a steakhouse that's on track to open in early- to mid-January in the space formerly occupied by Mark's American Cuisine.

    In order to supervise both restaurants, Shepherd has designated a chef de cuisine for each restaurant. At Underbelly, longtime sous chef Gary Ly has been promoted to the role. For One Fifth, Shepherd has hired Nick Fine, who, like Shepherd, worked at Brennan's under former Haven chef Randy Evans. Recently, Fine has been serving at Bobby Matos's sous chef at River Oaks restaurant State of Grace.

    “It’s time now for me to be a teacher, ” said Shepherd in a statement. “I will teach my staff to run these restaurants at the highest level. I’ll be there to guide them, but this is their chance to shine.”

    In order to supervise both concepts, Shepherd announced that he's purchased a bicycle and will use it to travel back and forth between both spots. Given that plan, it's no wonder the restaurant will close annually in August to undergo renovations to flip to its next concept.

    Ly, a CultureMap Tastemaker Awards Rising Star Chef of the Year nominee, has worked at Underbelly for three years. Prior to that, he worked for Ryan Pera at both The Grove and Revival Market and spent time at Brasserie Max & Julie. Fine may be new to Shepherd's team, but he's looking forward to the opportunity.

    “I’ve looked up to chef Chris for a long time,” said Fine. “I love his approach to food, how he sources, respects and prepares ingredients, but most importantly, I am so impressed by how he treats people and inspires everyone he comes in contact with. I can’t wait to bring a new perspective into his culinary world.”

    The rest of Underbelly and One Fifth's key personnel will come from a series of internal promotions. Sommelier Matthew Pridgen will move into a wine director role for both concepts, and pastry chef Victoria Dearmond will oversee desserts in her role as pastry director. Longtime server Jeff Buhrer, who has worked with Shepherd at both Catalan and Underbelly, will be One Fifth's general manager.

    Meanwhile, diners can get a glimpse of the future by following the restaurant on Instagram. If dishes like slow-braised goat neck and cast iron apple pie sound good, the wait for One Fifth's opening will feel long, but at least the team executing the dishes will be first class.

    One Fifth chef de cuisine Nick Fine recently worked at State of Grace.

    One Fifth Nick Fine
      
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    One Fifth chef de cuisine Nick Fine recently worked at State of Grace.
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    That's Amore!

    Pioneering Mexican chef and chic speakeasy popping up at Houston hotel

    Brianna Griff
    May 23, 2025 | 10:00 am
    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston
    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

    Houston diners won’t need a passport to explore Mexico’s culinary capital next month. On June 16 and 17, Four Seasons Hotel Houston will host From Oaxaca, With Love, a five-course experience that teams celebrated chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca with Oaxaca City cocktail bar Sabina Sabe and agave-spirits producer The Lost Explorer.

    The evening begins with Sabina Sabe bartender Mike Prado greeting diners with a cocktail in Bandista, the hotel’s speakeasy bar and lounge. The libations promise to be divine, with Sabine Sabe currently ranked No. 54 Best Bar in North America, and Bandista sitting at No. 59.

    From there, the party moves into a dining room filled with contemporary works supplied by Oaxaca Serrano Contemporary Art Gallery and underscored by live music.

    Ruiz, whose flagship Casa Oaxaca earned a spot in Mexico’s inaugural Michelin Guide, built his reputation by elevating the dishes he learned as a child cooking alongside his mother on the family farm.

    The chef stays close to his roots with recipes crafted using native ingredients such as chiles, corn, insects, and seeds purchased directly from local producers. Ruiz has long been considered an ambassador of the southern Mexican state — his enfrijoladas caused Noma’s famed Chef Rene Redzepi a moment of rapture.

    For his Houston appearance, diners can expect a true taste of Oaxaca: think a mini tostada topped with heirloom chapulines, chicatanas, and gusanos de maguey (grasshoppers, flying ants, and agave worms); red snapper cured in a bright tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth; and a slow-braised short rib finished in a fruit-laced mole.

    Prado will pair each course with cocktails such as the Pimiento Margarita, combining The Lost Explorer Tobalá mezcal with vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, and lime.

    “It is our great pleasure to welcome chef Alejandro Ruiz and Sabina Sabe to Houston, Texas,” Tom Segesta, Four Seasons Hotel Houston’s general manager, said in a statement. "These dinners, featuring these awarded ambassadors of Oaxacan food and drink, are sure to be enjoyed by our local community and guests from around the world.”

    The pop-up continues the hotel’s ongoing dinner-series format, which has previously spotlighted restaurants ranging from Emeril’s in New Orleans to Employees Only in New York and an Italian-American steakhouse from James Beard Award winner Chris Shepherd.

    From Oaxaca, With Love begins at 7 pm on Monday, June 16, and Tuesday, June 17. Seating is limited, with tickets priced at $250 per person plus tax and gratuity. Each reservation will receive a signed English-language copy of Ruiz’s cookbook The Food of Oaxaca: Recipes and Stories from Mexico's Culinary Capital. Reservations are available via OpenTable.

    Those who wish to linger can book the hotel’s Advance Purchase offer, which discounts room rates by up to 25 percent when reserved three or more days ahead.

    The menu features:

    Starter Trio

    • Mini tostada with heirloom insects
    • Zucchini blossom stuffed with ricotta and roasted banana purée
    • Hoja santa “taco” with quesillo, beans, and wild mushrooms

    Green Aguachile

    • Red snapper cured in tomatillo-rice-vinegar broth, Persian cucumber, red onion, cilantro, ginger-toasted peanuts
    • Cocktail: Pequeño Gigante – Madre Cuishe mezcal, hoja santa, ginger, lime, Oaxacan spices

    Tortilla Soup

    • Tomato-pasilla mixe broth, crispy tortillas, fresh cheese, cream, pork cracklings, mint-celery garnish
    • Cocktail: Pimiento Margarita – Tobalá mezcal, Mistela vermouth, peach, pimiento, cinnamon, lime

    Braised Short Rib

    • Anchamanteles mole, seasonal fruit relish, banana purée, crispy plantain
    • Cocktail: Agave Xerez – The Lost Explorer tequila, Palomino sherry, green apple, pear

    Textures of Oaxacan

    • Chocolate Mousse, sponge cake, ice cream, tuile, passion-fruit jelly, cacao nibs
    • Neat pour of Tobalá mezcal
    • Traditional water-based hot chocolate infused with cacao flower

    Chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca
      

    Photo courtesy of Four Seasons Hotel Houston

    Four Seasons Hotel Houston is hosting a two-night pop-up dinner featuring chef Alejandro Ruiz of Casa Oaxaca.

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