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    Food for Thought

    Winter Whites: These great wines are winners — at Christmas or any time of the year

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Dec 13, 2014 | 4:30 pm

    Luckily, no one ever said not to drink whites after Labor Day.

    Unlike wearing white, drinking white wines in the winter is perfectly respectable. Even the adage of drinking white with fish and fowl and red with meat is no longer true. Whites go with everything, at any time of the year.

    Even the adage of drinking white with fish and fowl and red with meat is no longer true. Whites go with everything, at any time of the year.

    Which is good for people who are sensitive to the tannins in red wines, own white shag carpet or who just don’t care for the taste of reds.

    Sure, when temperatures drop you crave a heartier wine, something a little more heavy than a light and fruity Vinho Verde. Maybe the weather and the dinner calls for a switch to an oaky Chardonnay from California or an imported white Burgundy that has both depth and complexity and pairs perfectly with a roasted chicken and root vegetables.

    Or try the 2012 Philosophy Sauvignon Blanc, an organic California wine with a hint of citrus and lemongrass that I like with a nice grilled salmon or a simple cheese plate enjoyed in front of a roaring fire or the glow from the TV while watching hokey Christmas movies on the Hallmark Channel.

    Want some more ideas? Brennan’s of Houston’s wine guy John Ramos suggests the following white wines for winter:

    Bouza Albarino, Montevideo, Uruguay 2012
    This wine has a tropical fruit aroma and white flower, star fruit and orange rind with hints of guava. It has a nice lively acidity on the mid-palate that carries into the finish.

    Domaines Ott Clos Mireille Blanc de Blancs Semillon/Vermentino, Cote du Provence, France 2010
    Soft and well balanced with stone fruits such as white peach and nectarine. An elegant and refined finish.

    Scala Dei Les Brugueres, Priorat, Spain 2011
    Bright spicy aromas of pear, Meyer lemon, and honeyed green apple pops out of the rim with a perfect rounded finish.

    “Each of these wines are perfect with the traditional and modern winter fare such that they are drinkable throughout the fall and winter seasons while other white grape varietals drink better in the spring and summer months,” Ramos says.

    Restaurateur Shepard Ross likes the 9.19 Deux Blancs from Ramian winemaker Brian Graham.

    “We pour it by the glass at Glass Wall!,” he says. “Intense tropical fruit, great density and enough acid on the back to compliment food. Love this juice from El Dorado! It's only 350 case production.”

    Shawn Virene at Brasserie 19 recommends Trimach Vineyards’ Gewurztraminer served with oven roasted chicken over their kale salad made with baby kale, cranberry, crouton, seasonal seeds, pine nuts, lime, olive oil and parmesan cheese. Gewurztraminer also pairs well with turkey.

    And let’s not forget the whites with bubbles, everyone likes a little sparkling wine during the holidays and there are plenty that are reasonably priced. One to try is Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve, a full-bodied Champagne with hints of cherry plums and honey. Priced at Spec’s for under $70, it’s a good bottle for holiday parties and perfect for that New Year’s Eve toast.

    So don’t forget to buy white this winter, you’ll brighten any dinner table or holiday party with selections such as the ones above. And many more.

    And let’s not forget the whites with bubbles, like Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve, priced at Spec’s for less than $70.

    Charles Heidsieck\u2019s Brut Reserve bottle of champagne
    Mezzanotte.tv
    And let’s not forget the whites with bubbles, like Charles Heidsieck’s Brut Reserve, priced at Spec’s for less than $70.
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    news/restaurants-bars

    firing up Montrose

    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    news/restaurants-bars
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