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    Houston's Own Union Square

    Houston's own Union Square Cafe? Carrabba's new restaurant goes beyond Italian, touts monster portions

    Marcy de Luna
    Marcy de Luna
    Nov 6, 2013 | 12:39 pm

    To call Johnny Carrabba a successful restaurateur is like calling Case Keenum a hard-working underdog. It's technically true, but there's a lot more to it than that.

    Carrabba's repertoire of popular eateries includes Carrabba’s (two locations on Kirby Drive and Voss Road) Mia’s and now his latest restaurant, Grace’s, which is set to open in December.

    "It's all things for all people, and all-day type food — come at any hour and we’ll have something for you.”

    The fare at Grace’s promises a range of crowd-pleasing eclectic dishes, American comfort food inspired by three of Carrabba’s favorite restaurants: Mustards Grill in Napa Valley, The Ivy in Beverly Hills and Union Square Cafe in New York City.

    Carrabba elaborates, “At Mustards for example, you can get anything from lobster to fish and chips. There’s no rhyme or reason to the menu. It’s just good, fun food. Come to Grace’s and have a bowl of chili and a beer, or grilled lobster and wine.

    "It's all things for all people, and all-day type food — come at any hour and we’ll have something for you.”

    One thing you won’t find, however, is a single Italian dish. “We’ve done that already,” Carrabba says.

    A sneak peek of the list of fare reveals the menu starts with a half dozen appetizer selections like the seafood cocktail, cheesy potato dip, and sticky ribs, boneless and in an orange ginger glaze. A trio of hot and hearty soup options includes chicken tortilla soup, chili with a side of cornbread, and the Louisiana-style Mia’s Gumbo with shrimp, crab and okra served with rice and saltines.

    Salads range from classics house and Caesar to the more adventurous fried oyster salad with spinach, onion, pine nuts, bacon and Roquefort in vinaigrette dressing.

    Grill and specialty highlights include a 16 ounce Wagyu strip steak with a green peppercorn cream sauce, American lamb chops with a balsamic-mint reduction and grilled lobster in a corn lobster sauce. Other items include Southern fried quail, a traditional chicken pot pie, braised short ribs and the Hawaiian pork chop with a pineapple port demi-glace.

    A selection of sandwiches and burgers add a casual touch with choices like the shrimp burger, tuna melt, smoked ribeye sandwich and Merguez sandwich made with lamb sausage.

    Large-sized portions will make any meal at Grace’s feel like a feast, Carrabba promises. Prices will range from $8 for a large bowl of soup to $40 for the most expensive entree.

    Grace's is easy to spot. It stands in the old Carrabba's space at the corner of Kirby Drive and Branard Street. Just look for the 10,000 square foot bungalow with porte-cochere and gallery porch.

    Named for Carrabba’s maternal grandmother, Grace Mandola, Grace's completes Carrabba’s restaurant triplex near Kirby, which is already home to Mia's and the newly expanded Carrabba's.

    Carrabba crafted the concept for Grace's with his grandmother’s love of family, hospitality and cooking in mind. His vision is not only to serve great food, but also to make guests feel at home when they walk through the door, just as his grandmother used to do for her guests.

    “Sure I feel a need to reinvent myself and grow, but my main reason for opening Grace’s is for my 300 employees," Carrabba says. "Seventy of them have been with me for 20 years or more. They’ve been good to me and I want this growth so they can have more, better opportunities.”

    Carrabba worked with Ed Eubanks of Eubanks Architects on the design, asking Eubanks to visit the small brick bungalow where his grandmother once resided. The exterior of her house became an important part of the design — its brick exterior and distinct slate roofs with brick diamond details have been copied to Grace’s. And the garden areas are intended to be residential in character, just like the well-tended gardens at Grace Mandola’s former home.

    The interior of the new restaurant features a large bar area with an extended front outdoor terrace, three dining rooms and no less than three kitchens to handle the diverse menu. With total seating for 233, the four rooms are each named for a different room of the house — the bar or "Library"; the main dining room or "Living Room"; a second, smaller and more formal dining area or "Den"; and an enclosed patio or "Porch" available for regular or private dining.

    All are decorated with carefully composed collections of vintage paintings, tablecloths, tableware, china and silver, which are meant to typify what would be found in a 1930s, '40s and '50s bungalow.

    Grace's on Kirby restaurant with Johnny Carrabba October 2013 logo
    Logo courtesy of Grace's on Kirby
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    What's eric eating episodes 513 and 514

    Beard Award-winning chef and family dish on their new Houston restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Nov 21, 2025 | 1:43 pm
    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre
    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” James Beard Award-winning chef Hugo Ortega, his wife and business partner Tracy Vaught, and their daughter Sophia Ortega join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss H-Town Restaurant Group. The company operates a number of local concepts, including interior Mexican restaurant Hugo’s, Backstreet Cafe, Mexican street food eatery Urbe, and Zaranda, the company’s newly opened restaurant in downtown that’s inspired by California.



    After a brief discussion of the early days of Hugo’s, the trio dives into the process of opening Zaranda. Vaught explains how she became aware of the space in the Norton Rose Fulbright Tower and why it’s proximity to Discovery Green made it particularly appealing. Chef Ortega shares how a three-week road trip throughout Mexico provided some of the inspiration for both Zaranda and Caracol, his Galleria-area seafood restaurant.

    From there, chef Ortega describes how the zaranda — a wire metal basket used to cook seafood over an open flame — anchors much of the menu. He also recommends some dishes diners should try when they visit Zaranda.

    Sandler asks Sophia Ortega what it’s like working with her parents. “I get that comment a lot. It is very different. A lot of people can’t imagine working with family,” she says.

    “For me, I’m an only child. We’re a very close family unit. The restaurants have been a huge part of my growing up. For us, it comes very naturally to work together. It’s all we know. I’ve only ever worked for my restaurants. A lot of the employees have seen me grow up. I think we all have our own lane, but at the same time we overlap. We’re always open to hearing different opinions. That’s when the best decisions are made. I love it.”

    “Sophia is very intuitive. The way she communicates is very thoughtful and sensitive. I think that’s so valuable for our staff. Everybody loves her,” Vaught adds.



    Listen to the full episode for an update on Backstreet Cafe. Its original building was torn down last year to make way for an all-new structure that’s on track to open next year — hopefully in time for its legendary Mother’s Day brunch. Sandler also asks about the restaurant group’s conspicuous omission from the Michelin Guide.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson, the proprietor of newly-open wine shop Montrose Grocer, discuss the news out of the week. They begin with a discussion about the Houston Chronicle’s list of the city’s top 100 restaurants, including a discussion of Aga’s as the No.1 selection, some of the new entries on the list, and restaurants that dropped off the list entirely, such as Himalaya, Kata Robata, and Killen’s Barbecue. They also talk about Bari Ristorante opening a new location in The Woodlands and restaurateur Brian Doke’s plans to open Lazy Lane restaurant in Garden Oaks.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Clarkson and Sandler share thoughts on their recent meal at Maison Chinoise. Located next to Brasserie 19 in the River Oaks Shopping center, the new Chinese restaurant is the latest project from Dallas-based Lombardi Family Concepts, known locally for Toulouse Cafe and Bar, its French restaurant in River Oaks District, and Lombardi Cucina Italiana in Uptown Park.

    Listen to the episode to hear which dishes they liked best, as well as the one that missed the mark. They also discuss its decor and how it will fit with the other luxurious restaurants in the shopping center.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega.

    Zaranda restaurant Tracy Vaught Hugo Ortega Sophia Ortega
    Photo by Nick de la Torre

    Zaranda owners Tracy Vaught, Hugo Ortega, and Sophia Ortega are this week's guests.

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