Year of Hugo Continues

Houston chef rises from humble beginnings to join pantheon of legendary Southern food icons

Hugo Ortega is having a memorable 2017.

On Saturday, the Southern Foodways Alliance presented Ortega with its Craig Claiborne Lifetime Achievement Award. Given annually since 1999, the award recognizes "an individual whom all thinking eaters should know, the sort of person who has made an indelible mark upon our cuisine and our culture, the sort of person who has set regional standards and catalyzed national dialogues."

The theme of this year's SFA conference is "El Sur Latino," with presentations and study devoted to the contributions Latinos have made to modern Southern foodways. Winning the award puts Ortega in a pantheon of legendary Southern food icons that includes New Orleans restaurateur Ella Brennan, cookbook author Edna Lewis, and ham purveyor Allen Benton.

The recognition is only the latest for Ortega, whose inspirational story of rising from dishwasher to chef-owner, tireless work ethic, and cheerful demeanor have made him a beloved figure in Houston. The chef earned the James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in his sixth year as a finalist. Xochi, the Oaxacan restaurant he and his wife/business partner Tracy Vaught opened in the Marriott Marquis hotel, has been hailed as one of America's best new restaurants.

Recently, Ortega has been collaborating with acclaimed chef Michael Mina on the latest version of MINA Test Kitchen. Dubbed Mi Almita, the pop-up introduces Bay Area diners to Ortega's take on classic Mexican cooking.

Mina will return the favor when he comes to Houston on October 28 to participate in the Chefs Unmasked fundraiser for the Greater Houston Restaurant Association's Houston Hospitality Employee Relief Fund. Other participating chefs include Chris Shepherd (Underbelly/One Fifth), Richard Sandoval (Bayou & Bottle), Ortega, and Danny Trace (Potente). Tickets are on sale now.

(Update 10/13: The SFA documentary about Ortega is now available online. Watch it below)

Hugo from Southern Foodways on Vimeo.

A look inside Xochi, Ortega's acclaimed Oaxacan restaurant.

Courtesy photo

A look inside Xochi, Ortega's acclaimed Oaxacan restaurant.

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a pizza the past

New Houston pizzeria serves up slices and vintage vibes in the East End

Courtesy of Pinballz Pizzeria

A look inside Pinballz Pizzeria.

A retro-styled pizzeria is slinging pies in the Second Ward. Pinballz Pizzeria pays homage to its neighborhood in its look and with select dishes on its menu.

Courtesy of Pinballz Pizzeria

A look inside Pinballz Pizzeria.

Located in the former Southside Flying Pizza space at 2240 Navigation, Pinballz is the latest project from chef and restaurateur John Avila. Best known locally for his modern general store Henderson & Kane, Avila is a native Houstonian who grew up in the neighborhood. He modeled the restaurant after Big Humphrey’s, which is described in press materials as “an East End original from the 1970s.”

“We’re not just tossing dough — we’re celebrating Second Ward,” Avila said in a statement. “You’ll taste that in everything we do, from our chorizo and cheese stuffed-crust pizza to our fresh take of the ever-so-taboo ingredient — pineapple on our ‘Trompo Pizza.’ Every slice is a tribute to the people and flavors that made us.”

Of course, the menu has traditional options as well. Diners will find familiar favorites such as meat lovers, a vegetarian pizza, and margherita. Those who want to build-their-own pizza will find 10 different meats, 16 vegetables, six cheeses, and three sauces — tomato, alfredo, and pesto.

Non-pizza options includes wings, a meatball sub, a sausage and pepper hoagie, two pastas, spaghetti and fettuccine alfredo. Finish the meal with tres leches or cannoli.

The restaurant stays true to its name with a John Wick pinball machine. Diners will also find plenty of TVs for watching sports.

Quietly open for a few weeks, Pinballz will celebrate its grand opening this Saturday and Sunday, May 10 and 11, with $5 10-inch pies and free pasta with the purchase of a large pizzia.

news-you-can-eat openings pizza