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    What's Eric Eating Episode 164

    Meet Spring's taco maestro, plus Houston's hottest new Vietnamese restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Oct 1, 2020 | 2:23 pm

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," chef Thomas Bille joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler to discuss Belly of the Beast, his modern taqueria in Old Town Spring. Lured to Texas from California by the more affordable cost of living, Bille has been earning raves from diners for his carefully crafted tacos, ceviches, and other dishes.

    Bille describes how he blended his Mexican heritage with his culinary training — including a lengthy stint at acclaimed Los Angeles restaurant Otium — to develop Belly of the Beast. He takes pride in making everything from scratch, including nixtamalization of corn for the restaurant's tortillas.

    "I look at the taco as its own complete dish. My canvas is the tortilla. The root of Mexico is maize, it's corn, and it always will be," Bille says. "Everything we do here is a lengthy process. The chimichurri is a two-hour prep . . . Some people are like 'oh, it's just a taco.' To me, it's a lot more than that. It's a dish on a tortilla. I take it seriously."

    Belly of the Beast serves other classic dishes, including cochinita pibil with habanero salsa, birria tacos made with sirloin from 44 Farms, and ceviches with Gulf seafood. As word of mouth has spread, Bille has started selling out of food on weekends. Ultimately, he hints that he might be interested in opening a second, larger location closer to the center of Houston, a prospect Sandler encourages.

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the potential ramifications of Pappas Restaurants owners Christopher and Harris Pappas acquiring Luby's assets, the closing of downtown cafe Coterie, and the recent reopenings of places such as Nancy's Hustle, Xochi, and Nobie's.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, they share their experiences dining at Xin Chao, the modern Vietnamese restaurant from chefs Christine Ha and Tony Nguyen. In particular, they praise the braised pork belly over crispy rice, which is a variation of a dish Ha served as part of the meal when she won season three of Masterchef.

    ---

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at 1 pm on ESPN 97.5.

    Chef Thomas Bille.

    Belly of the Beast chef Thomas Bille
    Courtesy of Belly of the Beast
    Chef Thomas Bille.
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    recess time

    New Houston restaurant's supervised playground will give parents a break

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 22, 2025 | 5:04 pm
    Recess restaurant playground interior rendering
    Courtesy of Recess
    Recess will give kids a place to play.

    A family-friendly bar, restaurant, and playground is starting to take shape where River Oaks meets Montrose. When it opens in early 2026, Recess will offer a number of amenities designed to appeal to busy families.

    Recess restaurant playground interior rendering

    Courtesy of Recess

    Recess will give kids a place to play.

    Located in a former bank building at 1500 Waugh Dr., Recess is a 12,500-square-foot, two-story venue that’s designed for parents and kids. At its heart is a supervised play area created by Houston design firm Rootlab that will allow kids to romp in a creative, colorful environment. Since the play area will be supervised by Recess’ staff (described in press materials as “highly trained caregivers”), parents are free to have a bite to eat and sip a drink in the facility’s second-story restaurant. Recess’ owners portray the concept as a win-win that gives kids a break from screen time while allowing adults to have a little break from the responsibilities of childcare.

    “As parents, we know how hard it can be to find balance — to stay connected to your spouse, your friends, or even just yourself while raising young kids,” co-founder Jonathan Davy said in a statement. “Recess was born from that everyday reality. We wanted to create a space that makes that truly possible — a secure environment where kids can play freely while adults can genuinely breathe for a minute without feeling like they’re on duty.”

    Recess will offer families a range of price points, including hourly rates, multi-visit packages, and long term memberships. Towards that end, it will soon offer a limited number of “Founder Memberships” that come with perks such as priority reservations and early booking for private events.

    Details on the food and drink offerings have yet to be finalized, but Recess promises its adult-oriented spaces will match the quality of its playground. Towards that end, the owners have retained hospitality consultant Scott Sulma to develop that aspect of its offerings. Prior to going out on his own, Sulma worked as the general manager of Tony’s and as the area director for Baltimore-based Atlas Restaurant Group’s Houston operations (Loch Bar, Azumi, Marmo).

    “Recess is about reclaiming family time — making it easier, more joyful and more meaningful,” added co-founder Paul Rice “Our goal from the start was to take the stress out of family outings and give parents a chance to unwind and be present.”

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