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    still smokin'

    Chris Shepherd's Southern Smoke Festival reboots with new cooking classes and food specials

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 23, 2020 | 12:00 pm

    This year's Southern Smoke Festival will look very different than the previous five. Instead of a thousand or more people gathering for delicious bites prepared by Chris Shepherd and some of the country's most high-profile chefs, Houstonians can do their part to raise money for the Southern Smoke Foundation through a weekend-long series of food specials and cooking classes that will donate a portion of their proceeds to the organization.

    Held Friday, October 2 through Sunday, October 4, the Southern Smoke Festival raises money for the Southern Smoke Foundation. Originally, the Foundation devoted itself to raising money for the National MS Society, but it pivoted after Hurricane Harvey to establish an emergency relief fund for restaurant workers in crisis. To date, the fund has issued over $5 million in grants since 2015, including over $3.2 million to more than 1,700 people nationwide since the start of restaurants shutdowns related to COVID-19.

    In addition to those efforts, Southern Smoke partnered with Mental Health America of Greater Houston and the University of Houston Department of Psychology to develop a program that offers free mental healthcare for Texas restaurant workers and their children. With the support of the James Beard Foundation and a group of anonymous donors, Southern Smoke established a $4 relief fund dedicated to workers in Chicago. The CultureMap Tastemaker Awards recognized Shepherd's efforts on behalf of Southern Smoke with its Hero Award.

    As Southern Smoke's executive director Kathryn Lott explained in March, people who work in the restaurant industry are particularly susceptible to falling into crisis when their income is disrupted.

    “Because of the nature of this business, many people live shift to shift; even paycheck to paycheck is sort of a luxury,” Lott said. “They don’t have two weeks to hold out for another paycheck. Tomorrow’s shift pays for the car note and the next two shifts pay for rent, the next for groceries. That’s sort of how this system works.”

    This year's scaled-down event begins at Hay Merchant on Friday, October 2. Shepherd's establishment devoted to comfort food and craft beer will offer a first taste of Horseshoe Pilsner, the Karbach brew created by Shepherd and acclaimed Austin pitmaster Aaron Franklin (Franklin Barbecue) that dedicates a portion of its sales to the Southern Smoke Foundation. Pair the beer with either a smoked turkey Reuben ($16) or a 16-ounce smoked pork shoulder served with ssamjang, Bibb lettuce, potato salad, and more ($30).

    On Saturday, October 3, Underbelly Hospitality will feature Southern Smoke-inspired ready-to-eat dishes and meal kits at its weekly stand at the Urban Harvest Farmers Market (8 am - noon). Dishes include pulled pork and pickled onion kolaches, smoked pork enchilada take and bake kits, and beer can chicken kits that include two cans of Horseshoe Pilsner (one to cook with and one to drink).

    Over at One Fifth, Shepherd and chef de cuisine Matt Staph will be serving chicken and lamb schwarma plates on the patio. Held from 12 - 4 pm, the event will also feature live music and a draft lemonade special (booze optional but recomended). At Georgia James, customers may purchase a half-smoked brisket for $65 (pre-order required).

    On Sunday, October 4, UB Preserv will serve two items inspired by the Golden Arches as parts of its weekly brunch service: a Smoked McRib Pork Bun with pickled onions and coleslaw ($12 for two buns) and a Shamrock Shake (frozen Midori, coconut, and rum with smoked whipped cream, $13).

    Finally, Georgia James chef de cuisine Greg Peters will host a virtual cooking class devoted to smoking ribs ($120). Participants will need a grill to participate in the class.

    Hay Merchant will offer a pork shoulder ssam special.

    Hay Merchant smoked pork shoulder ssam
    Photo by Nuray Taylor
    Hay Merchant will offer a pork shoulder ssam special.
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    bring on the Bacalhau

    Michelin-starred Houston restaurant heads to Portugal for new season

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 6, 2026 | 5:00 pm
    March restaurant Portugal season
    Photo by Zach Horst

    No conversation about Houston’s best restaurants would be complete without mentioning March, Goodnight Hospitality’s Mediterranean-inspired, fine dining, tasting menu restaurant in Montrose.

    For its 12th season, which begins this Friday, August 7, March will take a broad look at Portugal. Over the course of pre-dinner snacks in its lounge, seven courses in its dining room, and take away desserts, chef-partner Felipe Riccio and his team will guide diners through all aspects of Portuguese cuisine, including its trade routes with China, India, and North Africa.

    Riccio tells CultureMap that Portugal was the logical follow up to March’s 11th season, which examined northern Spain. He began the research process a few months ago, drawing upon published literature, cookbooks, and his own experiences as a stage at a restaurant in Lisbon. More than a menu update, seasons at March also include changes to the beverage offerings and creating service touches that enhance the experience.

    March restaurant Portugal season

    Photo by Zach Horst

    Rabbit cozido.

    “Portugal is so close geographically to the north of Spain, and there’s a lot of similarities,” he says. “The menu really explores a lot of places outside of the Mediterranean where the Portuguese had influence and were influenced by. It’s all these trade routes.”

    Priced at $230 plus drinks, tax, and gratuity, a meal at March begins in the lounge with four snacks, including a peri peri-spiced duck rillette, a delicate tart with lobster and caviar, a tempura-fried fish (peixinhos da horta) and the Macau-inspired porcho balichao made with manilla clams.

    As always, March brings premium ingredients to its take on classic dishes. For example, it sources Japanese Almaco Jack for a crudo that’s inspired by Portuguese salt cod (bacalahua). Cozido, a slow-cooked stew that’s a staple of Portuguese cooking, gets reinterpreted as a house made rabbit sauce with foie gras. Riccio acknowledges that diners expect a certain level of luxury at this price point, but diners may not always realize how valuable properly-sourced ingredients are.

    “I don’t think it always has to be so overt. I think the majority of people, the experience as a whole delivers that value,” Riccio says.

    Similarly, the Portugal menu continues March’s move to a set, seven-course menu instead of giving diners the choice of either six or nine courses. Riccio see that as another sign of the restaurant’s maturity.

    “A tasting menu is restrictive. We needed to earn that trust and give people options. I felt like people trust us and we’ve proved we can create an experience,” he says.

    Since part of the criteria for a Michelin star is consistency across visits, March’s ability to hold its star while still changing its menu twice a year is a testament to the kitchen’s skill. Add in the server’s deep knowledge of every dish on the menu, its comprehensive beverage offerings, and a dining room that features museum- quality art, and it’s reasonable to think that March might become Texas’ first restaurant to earn a two-star rating. For his part, Riccio would welcome the recognition.

    “I think March as an entire experience, as a restaurant day-in and day-out, we can be at that level. We strive to give people that experience to where they have that menu and feel it’s well worth it,” he says. “That recognition. I’ve seen what it means for the team, for the guests, and for the validation of the experience, and, obviously, for my career and the restaurant as a business.”

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