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    Cold brew here

    West U's new coffee shop buzzes with hot brews and fresh pastries

    Eric Sandler
    Aug 7, 2018 | 5:01 pm

    Houstonians have a new option for satisfying their seemingly limitless caffeine addiction. Michael Caplan has quietly opened the second location of Cavo Coffee.

    Like it sister location in Greenway Plaza, the new Cavo features a clean, modern look with a variety of tables, chairs, and couches that are welcome for both laptop warriors and those just looking to relax. It shares the building at 2617 Bissonnet St. with the Local Office coworking space and the newly opened Hanh Gallery.

    While both Cavo locations serve the same locally roasted espresso from Amaya Roasting Coffee and brews from Portland's Heart Coffee Roasters, the menu is all new. The toasts at the original location have been replaced by a new menu of sandwiches, salads, and shareable plates that work for breakfast, lunch, or an afternoon snack. Once it's dialed in, the new menu will roll out to the original location as well.

    In addition, Caplan recruited rising star pastry chef Valerie Trasatti (Revival Market, Benevento Bake Shop) to create a full range of pastries that are baked in house. At a time when many coffee shops still buy pastries from questionable sources, Trasatti has developed recipes for muffins, cookies, and cakes that are baked on site. Croissants come from a high quality local bakery.

    Caplan co-founded Montrose's popular Siphon Coffee. While he's since sold his interest in that business, Cavo still offers the brewing method. In addition, cold brews come via glass towers that allow customers to watch the four-hour process.

    If that weren't enough, Caplan has another trick up his sleeve. In addition to launching a new coffee shop, he's also getting into the roasting business with Cleo Roasting Company, which is located next door to Cavo. That project is still in the testing phase, but Caplan tells CultureMap that once he has everything dialed in, Cavo customers will be able to order Cleo coffees and beans at both Cavo locations.

    He also sees Cleo as having the potential to roast micro-batches of ultra premium coffees with raw prices that are as much as $100 per pound. Just as some people are willing to pay $100 to sample a fine wine or whiskey, Caplan thinks a certain breed of coffee-obsessed customers might be willing to pay $25 for a pour-over.

    Whether he's right about that remains to be seen, but judging by the crowd at Cavo on a recent weekday, the neighborhood is pretty happy about the new addition to the area.

    The cold brew must flow.

    Cavo Coffee West University
      
    @cleoroastingco/Instagram
    The cold brew must flow.
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    a seasonal treat

    Savor soft-shell crab before it's gone at these 6 Houston restaurants

    Brianna Griff
    Jun 5, 2025 | 10:30 am
    soft-shell crab at hachi
    Photo by Tom Qast
    The soft-shell crab at Hachi has a panko crust and a drizzle of smoked kabayaki.

    Soft-shell crab season may be drawing to a close, but Houstonians can still find the delicacy at restaurants across the city.

    There’s something both playful and a little rebellious about biting into an entire crab — shell, claws, and all. For the uninitiated, it can feel almost wrong, like you’ve skipped a step. But that’s also the appeal.

    That sense of ease, being able to dig in without navigating hard shells to extract delicate meat, makes the dish less intimidating. Suddenly, we’re not afraid of channeling Julia Roberts’ “slippery little suckers” scene (that was escargot in the film, but the fear remains).

    “Not everyone knows how to eat it, so it’s fun when you can make something and let them know to bite into the whole crab," Hachi executive chef Leo Huang tells CultureMap.

    A quick definition: Soft-shell crabs have recently molted and lost their exoskeleton, typically within the past 12 hours. The season for soft-shell crabs runs from about March to late September on the Gulf Coast, although its peak is in April and May. Due to the exact timing, it’s rarely found on a restaurant’s regular menu, so it’s best to confirm availability.

    "I love making dishes with soft-shell crab because it’s so versatile,” chef Huang says. “I think sauces that are smoked or have more umami flavor work best with the soft-shell crab."

    Soft-shell crab offers a rich, buttery bite, arguably more decadent than its hard-shelled counterpart, and Houston chefs have been putting their own spins on the Gulf Coast bounty for decades.

    Read on to see how some of Houston’s best restaurants serve this seasonal fare.

    Brennan's of Houston
    The Cajun-Creole institution perches its fried soft-shell crab atop a crisp salad of hearts of palm, tomato, and avocado. Enjoy it at lunch, brunch, or dinner, with the latter’s offering elevated by a satisfying scoop of lump crabmeat.

    soft-shell crab at hachi
      

    Photo by Tom Qast

    The soft-shell crab at Hachi has a panko crust and a drizzle of smoked kabayaki.

    Eugene’s Gulf Coast Cuisine
    This upscale Creole staple lightly fries its soft-shell crab before finishing it with a chipotle sauce and pico de gallo. Diners can order just one as an appetizer or opt for a main course of two crabs with two sides.

    Hachi
    At Hachi, the soft-shell crab ($14) receives a panko crust and a drizzle of smoked kabayaki, the restaurant’s interpretation of eel sauce. Tucked below is an arugula salad, the peppery greens brightened by a citrus dressing.

    Picos Restaurant
    The soft-shell crab at this Mexican mainstay is lightly breaded before it’s sautéed in garlic-infused oil. Mexican rice, shredded lettuce, avocado, and a tomato-habanero salsa are served alongside it. Diners can choose between two crabs for $40 or three for $60.

    Potente
    At Jim Crane's posh Italian restaurant next to Daikin Park, chef Danny Trace serves crispy soft shell crab topped with jumbo lump crab along with corn and tomatoes ($59)

    State of Grace
    The River Oaks favorite serves its soft-shells tempura-fried. They're served in lobster roll buns and an herby mayo, chef Bobby Matos tells CultureMap. Get it as an appetizer for lunch, brunch, or dinner.

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