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    Cooking Class

    Want to learn some tricks from a top Houston chef? Try this one-night cooking class

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 30, 2014 | 5:51 pm

    Looking for a little entertainment with dinner? Or how about the chance to learn cooking techniques from a well-regarded Houston chef? How about a fun, interactive date? Can you get home from work a little later than usual?

    If so, I have an idea.

    Quattro, the Italian restaurant in downtown Houston's Four Seasons hotel is offering cooking classes Wednesday through Saturday evenings. They start at 6:30 p.m. and last a couple hours. For $79 (or $149 for two), diners receive instruction from executive chef Maurizio Ferrarese or a member of his team on a specific cooking topic. The class also includes a three-course dinner built around the night's class. Usually, the classes are $130 per person, but the special price is available through Sept. 28.

    Ferrarese set the tone for the evening with a simple set of instructions. "I talk. You chop."

    I recently attended a class titled "Pasta Sauces ABC" with Ferrarese. As a mostly indifferent home cook (my specialties are grilling meat and the occasional dump and stir), I evened things out by inviting a friend with professional cooking experience to join me. Our agenda for the evening included a classic tomato sauce and a garlic sauce that's the basis for seafood dishes like linguini vongole. Then we made fresh pasta.

    Ferrarese set the tone for the evening with a simple set of instructions. "I talk. You chop."

    So we did, starting with blanching Roma tomatoes for the sauce before moving on to cutting onion, parley, basil and more. While the Romas simmered down to almost nothing in a pot, we turned to the garlic sauce. Ferrarese demonstrated techniques like the proper way to prepare leeks and that cool way chefs dice onions.

    My cook friend bailed on the role of taking over prep by picking up my camera and shooting the images above. Throughout, Ferrarese kept things moving, and a server ensured our wine glasses stayed full. It made for a light-hearted, jovial atmosphere.

    With the pasta sauces on their way, we turned to making pasta. Thankfully, Ferrarese had all the ingredients ready to go. Add them to a mixing bowl and let the machine combine them into dough. While the finished dough went to chill, Ferrarese produced another batch that was ready to flatten and cut.

    Finally, it was time to eat. Ferrarese returned to his role in the kitchen, and we sat down to dinner that began with Quattro's signature riff on vitello e tonno tonnato (veal with lightly seared tuna). From there, the pasta and garlic sauce we made showed up with a variety of shellfish (clams, lobster, shrimp), but the individual strands looked far too evenly cut to have been the ones I made. Finally, Ferrarese returned to prepare tiramisu tableside.

    "I'm telling everyone I know about this," my friend gushed.

    "Me too," I said.

    Why not? It had been a fun evening full of delicious food. Want to give it a shot? Call Quattro at 713-276-4700 for details.

    Tomato Conserva Recipe

    Ingredients:

    10 lb ripe tomatoes
    1 onion
    2 celery stalks
    5 garlic cloves
    Parsley
    Basil
    Bay leaves
    Salt and pepper

    Method:
    Blanch and peel tomatoes. Chop tomatoes, celery and onion. Place them in a pot with all the herbs. Close it with a lid and cook for 45 minutes. Stir in the meantime. Pass it to the food miller, season it with salt and pepper. Fill up the bottles and close with a lid. Boil it for one and half hours covered with water.

    Garlic and Seafood Base

    Ingredients:

    100 g spring onion
    10 cloves of garlic blanched three times in milk
    2 bay leaves
    1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh chili
    5 basil leaves
    1 teaspoon chopped parsley
    Leaves from a sprig of fresh thyme
    200 mL water
    6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
    sea salt
    Fresh shellfish such as clams, shrimp and/or lobster

    Method:

    Chop the garlic. Cut the spring onions into thin strips.

    In a large saucepan heat over low heat 3 tablespoons of oil with the bay leaf, add the garlic and onions and cook over low heat for about 15 minutes and discovered, dipping from time to time with a little broth. Remove from heat, add the pepper and thyme leaves. Season with salt. Let it sit for 5 minutes. Remove the thyme and bay leaves. Blend to achieve a smooth consistency.

    Sautee your seafood in a pan with oil, add cherry tomatoes if you want a touch or red in the sauce, and emulsify with the garlic base. Toss the pasta in it.

    Sandler attempts to replicate, mostly unsuccessfully.

    Quattro cooking class
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Sandler attempts to replicate, mostly unsuccessfully.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    Rising Star

    Houston restaurateur dishes on swapping Tex-Mex for new retro steakhouse

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 27, 2026 | 11:15 am
    Star Rover exterior
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    Restaurateur Ford Fry surprised Houston diners when he announced in January that he was closing his Tex-Mex restaurant Superica and replacing it with Star Rover, a casual, family-friendly steakhouse. With Star Rover now open for dinner and weekend brunch, Fry — who also owns Star Rover's neighbor La Lucha, casual taqueria Little Rey, and River Oaks fine dining restaurant State of Grace — explains that the decision came down to both economics and his own desire to provide the Heights with something he thought was lacking.

    “This was our smallest Superica. Superica for us takes so much — every day you’re making salsas, tortillas, it’s so prep heavy,” Fry says. “We weren’t big enough to be that successful. We didn’t have enough seats to make the labor make sense.”

    Rather than compete against Houston’s seemingly limitless roster of Tex-Mex restaurants, Fry saw an opportunity for a steakhouse that occupied a space somewhere between chains like Texas Roadhouse and Outback and fine dining staples like Pappas Bros. Enter Star Rover, which already has a popular location in Nashville.

    Just as La Lucha channels Fry’s childhood memories of the San Jacinto Inn, Star Rover takes some inspiration from iconic Houston restaurant Hofbrau. Diners of a certain age will see places like Hofbrau in the restaurant’s design. The walls are adorned with framed pictures, taxidermy, vintage advertising, and more.

    “The inspiration is if you were some old Texas dude who wanted to start a steakhouse you’d find a bunch of crap and put it on the walls,” Fry says. “We want to make it cool, but it’s got to take you away from what it was. Did we achieve that? I hope so.”

    Fry tasked chef Bobby Matos with updating the Star Rover menu for Houston. It starts with a selection of steaks — chopped, filet, T-bone, ribeye, or skirt — along with a half-chicken, blackened redfish, and chicken fried chicken. All of them come with milk rolls, salad, fries, and onion rings. Diners who want a little surf and turf can add either a crab cake or a fried lobster tail.

    The appetizer menu is similarly tidy, consisting of shrimp cocktail, oysters (raw or fried), potato skins, and vegetable crudités. Desserts include a selection of pies as well as soft serve ice cream.

    Since the steaks are thinner than those served at upscale steakhouses, they’re cooked hot and fast on a plancha and basted in butter.

    “We control the costs by the size of the meat,” Fry explains. “Meat is so expensive, how do you do a family-friendly steakhouse? It’s a 12-ounce ribeye and it’s choice. We put the right amount of age on it.”

    Tucked away in the corner of the menu is text that reads “Cheeseburger?! Just ask!” People should, because it’s a hearty half-pound, New York tavern-style burger that sits on grilled onions, is topped with cheese and mayonnaise, and is served on a classic potato bun. Think of it as the thick-patty counterpart to La Lucha’s thin-patty Pharmacy Burger.

    “I call it a lowbrow steakhouse burger,” Fry says. “It’s not a Peter Luger, but it may be better and it won’t cost as much.”

    Star Rover’s weekend brunch menu features the same pancakes that had been a staple at Superica. They’re joined by some new items, including baked-to-order cinnamon rolls, breakfast tacos, and kolaches that use sausage from Houston’s Roegels Barbecue Co.

    Star Rover exterior

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    Star Rover is now open in the Heights.

    The restaurant has one other old-school touch in the form of an eating challenge called the “I Ate the 76er.” Available with 24 hours notice, diners who finish a 76-ounce steak, milk rolls, salad, onion rings, and fries in under an hour will receive the meal for free, plus a t-shirt and the opportunity to sign a winners’ wall. The challenge reflects the spirit Fry is bringing to Star Rover.

    “A lot of it is scratching that itch of something fun I want to do versus what I think the neighborhood will like,” he says. “We did a version of this in Nashville with a stage. It’s where I eat when I’m in Nashville, because it’s what I want to eat when I’m there.”

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