There’s something about alcohol-induced comas in the summer heat that really make the South the South. Even though mint juleps are my personal favorite summer (or any-time) cocktail, I’ve jumped into the habanero infused alcohol wagon, which seems to be the cronut of cocktails these days.
My favorite of these is the Garden Variety at Philippe. The habanero-infused vodka cuts deeply into the smashed fresh strawberries, cucumber and lemongrass syrup. This cocktail managed to torture and refresh me simultaneously. I’m generally not a fan of wine cocktails, but the Lucky Peach just may have changed my mind. The cognac and peach vodka added depth to the otherwise usual bad rep wine cocktails (spritzers, anyone?) have.
It is a perfect pairing with the grilled halibut over quinoa pilaf and shaved asparagus ribbons. This dish achieves the ever so hard goal of being healthy yet tasting indulgent. Since you were so healthy for your entree, you must indulge yourself with the Grand Marnier crepe souffle. Yes people. The souffle is stuffed inside of a crepe, swimming in a sea of a very boozy grand marnier foam.
If you’re lucky, Sale Sucre chef Philippe Harel might just make you one of his specialties: Candied cherry tomatoes with sesame seeds.
Oh how I would love to be that crepe! These are just three of the many genius creations the French Cowboy has come up for with for Philippe's summer menu.
On the other end of the spectrum, the underrated Sale Sucre often gets overlooked. Charming and unimposing, Sale Sucre’s House Cocktail soupe of champagne is simple and classic. Although its a menu standard, the camembert chaud is still one of the most unique and quintessential French dishes in Houston.
The Heights bistro has also reimagined the mojito in with its Mojito Parisien, adding St Germain to this much beloved tropical drink. A refreshing and mildly sweet cocktail deserves an equally sweet partner, found in the Summer Salad. Cantaloupe balls accompanies watermelon and goat cheese.
And if you’re lucky, Sale Sucre chef Philippe Harel might just make you one of his specialties: Candied cherry tomatoes with sesame seeds.
Lucille’s is another underappreciated restaurant. A Kiwi in Texas and the New Orleans Dandy were my two favorite cocktails here, although the cucumbertini might be just the thing for the Houston summer heat. The surprisingly savory cocktail is balanced by the floral notes in the Hendricks gin. Sips of the cucumbertini in between bites of the watermelon feta salad just about clenched the taste of summer for me.
As I sat back in my chair, relaxing in what feels like an undiscovered restaurant Anthony Bourdain would go to, chef Chris Williams presents me with something he’s been playing with. It’s a triple tail grouper he’s cooked in his version of a chimichurri sauce, brilliantly plated over slices of avocado and those purple heirloom tomatoes I’ve come to love.
Williams has a way with fish, as shown in the ever popular Cobia fish over Serrano Johnny cakes. Roasted fish over savory pancakes . . . who knew!
New Tastes
I was absolutely more than excited to try the food at Seasons 52. As someone who counts calories, this is pretty much a restaurant dream come true. The food at Seasons 52 far exceeds the saccharine cocktails (although our helpful waiter assured me that only fresh juice and agave nectar were used as mixers).
The strawberry basil fusion tasted a bit too much like melted strawberry popsicle, and the pomegranate in the pomegranate margarita martini masked the taste of the Patrón Silver Tequila I so enjoy. The alcohol portion of the meal was salvaged by our waiter’s brilliant pairing of Aveleda Vinho Verde with the cedar plank roasted salmon.
Whenever I think of Uchi, I think of tiny portions and which pizza joint I’ll hit up after.
To be honestly, I blanched when my lunch companion suggested we order the salmon. Roasted salmon isn’t exactly exciting or different, and I was really looking forward to trying something indulgent for under 475 calories. However, my first bite changed my mind. The salmon is wild caught, not farmed, and the taste and texture proved such. The vegetarian plate was also a pleasant surprise, filled with both hot items like roasted tofu and a soft taco, accompanied by a bowl of cooled quinoa salad with a wedge of watermelon, perfect for the 100 degree weather we were having that day.
Last but not least is the shining beacon of restaurants — Uchi. I know everyone loves Uchi for obvious reasons, but whenever I think of Uchi, I think of tiny portions and which pizza joint I’ll hit up after.
Then I get there and it’s as if I’ve been transformed into a different world. When a flavor satisfies you this way, you only need a couple of bites to be full. Leading the spicy cocktail train, Uchi’s summer cocktail consisting of sake (of course), yuzu juice, chili peppers,cilantro and cucumber was the most subtle and well crafted of the category. Subtle with sporadic punches of the chili, this drink paired with a striped bass ceviche spring roll swimming in tiger milk (Uchi's version made with coconut milk and seafood essence) practically flies you to a south Asian beach.
I was happy to have small, healthy bites such as the jar of butterflied baby carrots dipped in carrot puree, soft shell crab dotted with pine nuts and yuzu gelato and indulged in a couple of soft shell crawfish cushioned on raw corn kernels and corn milk. I was disappointed when served with lemon sorbet for dessert since I’m more of a chocolate person, but instead of the usual tart-yet-saccharine flavor lemon sorbet usually has, this dessert had a savory depth to the sorbet that made it so interesting I ate bite after bite with a bit of pistachios and caramelized beet reduction until the whole dish was gone.
With these refreshing options, it almost makes you appreciate the swampy hotness of Houston summers. Almost.
The grilled halibut over quinoa pilaf and shaved asparagus ribbons at Philippe
