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    what' up with Clark Cooper

    Brasserie 19 owners relocate pop-up burger joint to Rice Village, plot new wine bar

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 27, 2020 | 11:50 am

    Clark Cooper Concepts, the Houston restaurant group behind establishments such as Brasserie 19 and Coppa Osteria, has reshuffled its remaining restaurant lineup. Beginning last week, it reopened The Dunlavy for breakfast and lunch and relocated its Daddy’s Burgers pop-up to the former home of Punk’s Simple Southern Food in Rice Village.

    Co-owner Grant Cooper tells CultureMap that Punk’s has come to the end of its run as its original location next to Coppa, but the company plans to open a more stripped-down version focused on the restaurant’s signature fried chicken in a new location. Daddy’s Burgers will operate in Rice Village for now — possibly until the end of 2020 — at which point it will give way to a new, unnamed wine bar and restaurant that the company is still developing.

    That’s a lot to take in. Let’s break it down a little further.

    Clark Cooper launched Daddy’s Burgers in June at The Dunlavy, its restaurant and event space along Buffalo Bayou. The concept, built around the burgers Cooper serves at home, features burgers made with grass-fed beef patties, paired with tater tots, onion rings, milkshakes, cold beer, cocktails, and more. When Dunlavy regulars requested the restaurant resume serving its familiar menu of breakfast and lunch dishes, the company decided to relocate Daddy’s Burgers to Rice Village. Moving puts the burger restaurant in a more family-friendly area and creates synergy with Coppa, Cooper notes.

    With the move, the Daddy’s Burgers menu has added some lighter options. The “...but Mama says” section includes a raw bar with oysters and shrimp, a crab Louie salad, shrimp cocktail, crab cakes, and salads. Asked about operating a burger restaurant so close to two national heavyweights in Shake Shack and Hopdoddy, Cooper replies that he isn’t concerned.

    “A burger’s a burger, but each has their own styles, vibe, and mojo. Shake Shack is different than Hopdoddy, and Daddy’s Burgers is different from both of them,” he says.

    As for Punk’s, Cooper says they plan to relaunch the Southern-inspired restaurant with a new version that’s more focused on its popular fried chicken, which he describes as Punk’s Chicken Shack. “When things calm down, we’ll find a home for Punk’s,” Cooper says.

    Daddy’s Burgers will wind down around the end of 2020 to allow the space to transition into a new wine bar and restaurant that will also feature a market for high-end food items and grab-and-go meals. While it doesn’t have a name yet, Cooper says the menu is about 65-percent ready.

    ‘We’ll do a lot of shareable plates, things on Lazy Susans, Mediterranean-driven,” he says. “It will be California-inspired like a lot of our things. At the end of the day, it will be a neighborhood wine bar-restaurant with a market in it as well.”

    Spare Cooper all the questions about whether this new concept is “Ibiza 2.0.” He and chef Charles Clark may be opening a “Mediterranean-driven,” wine-fueled new restaurant, but it will be distinct from their celebrated concept that ended its 20-year run in February.

    “I don’t want people to think it’s Ibiza, because it’s not,” he says. “It’s going to have a totally different look, a different menu. It’s not Ibiza 2.0.”

    Meanwhile, all of the company’s other plans for new concepts, including the healthy-eating restaurant Satisfy, are on-hold until restaurant operations return to a more normal footing.

    “There’s really no reason I want to put the effort into launching a new restaurant [right now]. It’s hard enough at 100-percent,” Cooper says. “When you’ve got these unknowns, I feel like I don’t know what’s going to happen in the fall.”

    Punk's fried chicken will find a new home.

    Punk's Simple Southern Food fried chicken
    Photo by Debora Smail
    Punk's fried chicken will find a new home.
    openingsnews-you-can-eatclosings
    news/restaurants-bars

    visiting popup bagels

    A highly opinionated take on Houston's venture-backed new bagel shop

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 18, 2026 | 5:10 pm
    PopUp Bagels
    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels
    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

    It’s hard to remember the last restaurant opening with as much fanfare as PopUp Bagels. Houstonians lined up in the heat for the bakery’s grand opening on Saturday, June 13.

    Shawn the Food Sheep included a glimpse of the line in his review below.


    View this post on Instagram
    A post shared by Shawn Singh (@shawnthefoodsheep)


    Eager to see what the fuss is all about, I stopped by around 10 am on Thursday, June 18. Thankfully, only about a dozen people stood in line ahead of me, and I had a bag of six bagels in less than 20 minutes.

    The frequency with which it boils and bakes it bagels sets PopUp Bagels apart from Houston’s traditional, mostly family-owned bagel shops. Instead of making large batches early in the morning that may get refreshed once or twice per day, PopUp Bagels is constantly boiling and baking smaller batches of a couple dozen bagels at a time throughout its operating hours. That's why customers will hear the cry of “hot bagels” echoing through the small, counter-service space every time more emerge from the oven.

    PopUp is different from traditional bagel shops in a couple of other important ways. First, the menu only list five varieties — plain, poppy, salt, sesame, and everything, which is topped with poppy seeds, salt, and sesame seeds. And, it only serves whole bagels — no slicing or toasting. The store’s motto of “grip, rip, and dip” explains how it expects customers to consume their bagels. Packaged lox are available, but diners have to assemble the sandwich themselves — either off-site or at one of the couple of cafe tables outside.

    PopUp Bagels also doesn’t sell individual bagels. Instead, diners must order a minimum of three bagels and a schmear — various cream cheese and butters are available — for $15. Six bagels and a schmear costs $24. A dozen bagels and two schmears is $46. As a point of comparison, the Bagel Shop Bakery in Bellaire charges $25 for 13 bagels and two, 8-ounce schmears.

    So, how is it?

    Fresh, hot bagels are inherently superior to hours-old bagels. That’s a real advantage for PopUp Bagels. On my visit, the fresh-from-the-oven plain bagels were so hot that they needed a couple of minutes before we could "grip and rip" them.

    As for the bagels themselves, they certainly look the part. The outside is deeply caramelized with an even distribution of toppings that adhere well to the exterior.

    But the biggest shortcoming is texture. Bagels, obviously, are supposed to be chewy, but all six of the bagels that an ex-pat New Yorker friend and I ordered walked the line between chewy and underbaked. That may be deliberate, as softer bagels are easier to “grip and rip.”

    It's also possible that the bakery’s new employees are still dialing in procedures, and that a different day would yield bagels with a crispier texture. Colloquially, friends who have also visited the shop — both in Houston and other cities — disagreed with my assessment of the texture.

    The plain is just that, with a very mild flavor. Both the scallion cream cheese and salted butter had a pleasantly creamy texture and boosted the dining experience.

    Overall, PopUp is competitive with Houston’s best bagels. That’s promising, since Stripes — the equity growth firm that bought PopUp Bagels in 2023 — has announced plans to open more than 300 locations nationwide.

    But you won’t see me driving half an hour or standing in a long line to get another taste. Houston’s locally-owned bagel shops are more convenient, less expensive, and just as good.

    PopUp Bagels

    Courtesy of PopUp Bagels

    Houstonians are lining up to try PopUp Bagels.

    openingsnews-you-can-eatbreakfastpopup bagels
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