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    It's a new dawn

    Acclaimed Houston chef pivots from downtown restaurant

    Eric Sandler
    Jul 24, 2020 | 1:47 pm

    Dawn Burrell is moving on. The chef, who earned a James Beard semifinalist nomination in the Best Chef: Texas category, has parted ways with Kulture, the downtown restaurant where she’s worked as the executive chef for the past two-and-a-half years.

    Burrell tells CultureMap that a number of factors contributed to her decision, primarily her need to help her mother recover from a stroke she suffered in February. For the chef, working in close proximity to a large group of people — especially people who make not be taking the same precautions she is to prevent contracting COVID-19 — presents too much of a risk to both her health and her mother’s.

    “My focus right now is my mother,” Burrell says. “While the world is sorting itself out, this is an opportunity to make sure she’s okay.”

    Like many downtown restaurants, Kulture is currently closed. Burrell says she told Kulture owner Marcus Davis that she would be interested in helping the restaurant transition to operating without her, but that’s still up in the air.

    Instead of working at a restaurant, Burrell is expanding Pivot, the meal delivery service she started in conjunction with local non-profit I’ll Have What She’s Having. Pivot provides meals for two, four, or six people along with personal anecdotes from Burrell. They're available from her website, chefdawnburrell.com.

    The menus draw from a variety of experiences and globally-inspired flavors. Beyond Kulture’s focus on Southern and Caribbean-inspired dishes, Burrell also worked as a sous chef at Uchi and Uchiko. Dishes include salmon croquettes with smoked crème fraiche, warm pea and potato salad, lentil hummus, and fonio "tabbouleh."

    “During these trying times, Pivot also strives to meet the current need of working families,” Burrell said in a release. ‘It is designed in order to alleviate some of the pressures and day-to-day responsibilities that come with maintaining a household and feeding a family wholesome meals.”

    Burrell also acknowledges that she’s working on another restaurant project but isn’t ready to divulge the details yet beyond that she’s considering a cloud kitchen-type operation that would allow her to work with a relatively small team and limit her potential for exposure.

    “I don’t want to have to be around a lot of people in order to do my job,” Burrell says. “That’s what the restaurant industry requires. That’s why i decided to chef the way I’m working currently until we can find a way to be around each other.”

    Dawn Burrell holds a dish she sells via the Pivot meal delivery service.

    Dawn Burrell shrimp dish
    Photo by Amy Scott Photography
    Dawn Burrell holds a dish she sells via the Pivot meal delivery service.
    chefs
    news/restaurants-bars

    New Year's greetings

    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
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