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    Doin' it in Texas

    New wine shop and tasting room uncorks boho charm and eclectic pours in The Heights

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 28, 2022 | 2:17 pm

    The Heights will soon welcome a new wine shop and tasting room. Reata Cellars will open July 6 at 633 West 19th St.

    A Spanish word that refers to the leather rope carried by Mexican vaqueros — and also the name of the ranch in the classic film Giant — Reata unites wine industry veteran Mary Dodson with Sandy Epps, a former music industry star who also operated a wine bar in Columbus, Texas. Together, they’ve transformed a former insurance office into an intimate space where people can experience wine — primarily through drinking it, of course, but also by talking about it.

    “We wanted to make it more like if you were walking into a Spanish winery, but when we gutted it and discovered the bohemian, ’70s industrial vibe, we decided to go with it,” Epps says about the space, which has exposed brick walls and concrete floors. “It gives it a charm.”

    Adding to that charm are furniture pieces built by Epps’ daughter Allison and art that both women have collected over the years. Epps’ history in the music business also gets a nod courtesy of the framed gold and platinum records she earned as the manger for legendary Texas bands the Butthole Surfers and the Toadies.

    Dodson assembled the opening selection of approximately 60 bottles by selecting wines she knows well from her time as a wine distributor. The list is on smaller producers that customers won’t find at any of the nearby grocery stores. It comes everything from Italian sparkling wine to domestic producers and the wine produced by Houston master sommelier Guy Stout.

    “The wine selection is playful. It’s supposed to not have one direction,” Dodson says. “It’s going to come from my past and the people we love. The people who bring us what we’re looking for, which is [wines] that aren’t everywhere, that we can support.”

    “My philosophy is there’s a story in every bottle of wine,” Epps adds. “That’s our tagline. I wanted a space that was small and intimate, where we could talk about wine, share stories, and become friends.”

    Reata holds a winery license, which allows it to both import wines and make its own vintages. Those plans are still a little fluid, but Dodson sees the potential to use grapes from both Texas and other parts of the world, adorned with labels designed by Epps’ artist friends. “Any person or estate that’s affected us over the years that we’re able to be part of, we will be,” she says.

    For now, Reata plans to be open Wednesday through Saturday. With a rotating selection of five wines by-the-glass, it's an ideal pre-dinner option for people heading to nearby restaurants like Squable, Harold's, and La Lucha. Customers may snack on cheeses from Houston Dairymaids or charcuterie boards from Gourmet Foods. Over time, they plan to hold tasting events with visiting winemakers and create a buyers club for regulars.

    “Hopefully people want to hang out with us,” Dodson muses. “Other than that, it’s being playful. It’s having fun with what you’re doing. Understanding that working hard dosen’t mean not having fun. It means understanding what you’re doing and being passionate about it.”

    Reata will open with approximately 60 wines.

    Reata Cellars interior
    Photo by Brittney Ellaway
    Reata will open with approximately 60 wines.
    openingswine
    news/restaurants-bars

    Coming soon to Fredericksburg

    Houston restaurant vet serves up Roman-style eatery in the Hill Country

    Brandon Watson
    Dec 26, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Bottega Salaria Fredericksburg
    Photo courtesy of Bottega Salaria
    Valerio Lombardozzi is opening Bottega Salaria in the former home of La Bergerie.

    Valerio Lombardozzi’s culinary career has taken him to the world’s finest kitchens, including restaurants owned by icons like Alain Ducasse, Giorgio Locatelli, and Joël Robuchon. In Houston, he led La Table and Tavola, where he earned a reputation for being one of the city's most engaging front of the house personalities.

    But his latest project might be his biggest accomplishment yet. The hospitality veteran is opening Bottega Salaria, a homey Italian osteria and artisan market, in the former home of La Bergerie at 312 E Austin St in his adopted home of Fredericksburg.

    Lombardozzi says the restaurant, expected to arrive in winter 2026, fills a gap in the Hill Country dining scene, but, more importantly, it's a reflection of his personal history and time spent working at his family’s restaurant in Rome.

    “[It’s about] where I grew up, how I grew up, and how I eat,” he shares.

    The three-concept experience is inspired by Italy’s Via Salaria, the ancient route Italians used to transport salt from the Adriatic Sea to Rome. The menu acts as a sort of travelogue, borrowing from the different cultures along the road, and the way village fishermen and shepherds ate.

    Lombardozzi is quick to say he didn’t want to open a chef-driven restaurant. Instead, the osteria will serve traditional Roman staples such as cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, saltimbocca with sage and prosciutto, and branzino carved tableside.

    “I was one of the last to be exposed to the old generation of professionals who knew how to carve elegantly for the guests,” he says.

    The adjacent bottega will stay open during restaurant hours, offering fresh pasta made on-site, house-made sauces, imported Italian pantry items, cheeses, salumi, breads, and biscotti. Patrons will be able to shop for individual items or put together custom gift baskets.

    Outdoors, La Fraschetteria will debut a new hospitality experience in the U.S. The self-guided experience invites diners to grab wine directly from garden shelves, gather a spread of meats, cheeses, bread, or pasta, and linger around long communal tables lit by string lights.

    Keeping the chit-chat going will be a thoughtful beverage program anchored by a primarily Italian wine list and imported beer. Lombardozzi says the cocktail menu might be a surprise, offering only gin and tonics, spritzes, and negronis. The latter has been made into a game where diners roll dice to determine the evening's combination of gin, vermouth, and bitters.

    After dinner, guests can select an amaro from a rolling cart, sip grappa and limoncello, or sip a neat whiskey.

    Lombardozzi shares that he wants Bottega Salaria to be just as comfortable for Fredericksburg locals as it is for destination travelers. Beyond daily service, Bottega Salaria plans community events such as garden wine nights with live music, Sunday movie nights, and hands-on cooking classes.

    The space is designed for ease with a warm palette combining olive green and pomegranate reds. The decor blends heritage and modernity, bringing in objects like antique mirrors, plates, custom-made lamps, and even old tablecloths and curtains for an Old World feel.

    "We’re not just opening a restaurant,” Lombardozzi says. “We’re creating a gathering place. A home for everyone who loves Italian food, culture, and the joy of sharing a meal with others.”

    italian cuisinewinefredericksburghill countryopeningsnews-you-can-eat
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