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    ciao down!

    Chris Shepherd cooks up Italian comfort food with 'Red'-hot new One Fifth concept

    Steven Devadanam
    Jun 23, 2021 | 2:17 pm

    Chris Shepherd is taking can’t stop/won’t stop to a whole new level.

    Just a day after his Southern Smoke Foundation received global, “best of the best” accolades from luxury publication Robb Report, the Houston powerhouse chef/restaurateur is stirring things up in his ephemeral restaurant concept, One Fifth.

    As CultureMap’s Eric Sandler previously reported, One Fifth’s current iteration, The Georgia James Tavern Takeover is set to end Saturday, June 26.

    That means a fresh new concept will be served up Tuesday, June 29. This time, Shepherd is drawing from the comfort food of his childhood to concoct One Fifth Red Sauce Italian.

    Before devoted fans cry foul, Shepherd makes an important note: The concept is “very different from the food served during One Fifth Romance Languages,” a press release notes. Instead, diners can expect familiar Italian-American fare: spaghetti and meatballs, baked pastas, chicken parmesan, and New York style cheesecake.

    “I’ve said this for every One Fifth concept, but I’m really excited about this one,” Shepherd tells CultureMap. “This is the food I grew up with—my mom’s lasagna, my grandmother’s meatballs, toasted ravioli inspired by one of my favorite childhood restaurants, Mr. C’s. And we’re taking these nostalgic dishes and sourcing the best product we can find from our farmers and other amazing vendors. I can’t wait until Tuesday!”

    And, neither, we’re guessing, will fans. Only one pizza—the ubiquitous pepperoni—will be on the menu. Shepherd, a press release notes, will pay homage to some of his friends with dishes on the menu: Pass and Provisions’ Caesar salad; Monteverde's Ragù alla Napoletana (tomato braised pork osso bucco, meatballs, cacciatore sausage, fusilli rustic, broccoli rapini); and his childhood favorite, Mr. C’s toasted ravioli.

    Pastry director Victoria Dearmond’s dessert menu includes a tiramisu and a hearth-baked chocolate torte (yum).

    Shepherd reports that his team is already getting saucy, with some of the following tomatoes used for his red sauce:

    • Atkinson Farms: used for the fresh tomato sauces and as the base of the red sauce for pasta to add acidity.
    • Goodthyme Farm: used for fresh tomato and slightly cooked dishes, like the roasted tomato and burrata.
    • Bianco Dinapoli Tomatoes: used for the base of the pizza sauce because plum tomatoes add sweetness and structure.

    Importantly, One Fifth is still closing this year, Shepherd’s longtime representative notes, with a seamless close then opening of Wild Oats. The space is currently under construction; no open date has been set.

    -----

    CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler is on vacation.

    Roasted Tomato Burrata.

    One Fifth Red Sauce Italian roasted tomato burrata
      
    Photo by Taylor Hall
    Roasted Tomato Burrata.
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    a pizza the past

    New Houston pizzeria serves up slices and vintage vibes in the East End

    Eric Sandler
    May 6, 2025 | 4:00 pm
    Pinballz Pizzeria interior
    Courtesy of Pinballz Pizzeria
    A look inside Pinballz Pizzeria.

    A retro-styled pizzeria is slinging pies in the Second Ward. Pinballz Pizzeria pays homage to its neighborhood in its look and with select dishes on its menu.

    Pinballz Pizzeria interior
      

    Courtesy of Pinballz Pizzeria

    A look inside Pinballz Pizzeria.

    Located in the former Southside Flying Pizza space at 2240 Navigation, Pinballz is the latest project from chef and restaurateur John Avila. Best known locally for his modern general store Henderson & Kane, Avila is a native Houstonian who grew up in the neighborhood. He modeled the restaurant after Big Humphrey’s, which is described in press materials as “an East End original from the 1970s.”

    “We’re not just tossing dough — we’re celebrating Second Ward,” Avila said in a statement. “You’ll taste that in everything we do, from our chorizo and cheese stuffed-crust pizza to our fresh take of the ever-so-taboo ingredient — pineapple on our ‘Trompo Pizza.’ Every slice is a tribute to the people and flavors that made us.”

    Of course, the menu has traditional options as well. Diners will find familiar favorites such as meat lovers, a vegetarian pizza, and margherita. Those who want to build-their-own pizza will find 10 different meats, 16 vegetables, six cheeses, and three sauces — tomato, alfredo, and pesto.

    Non-pizza options includes wings, a meatball sub, a sausage and pepper hoagie, two pastas, spaghetti and fettuccine alfredo. Finish the meal with tres leches or cannoli.

    The restaurant stays true to its name with a John Wick pinball machine. Diners will also find plenty of TVs for watching sports.

    Quietly open for a few weeks, Pinballz will celebrate its grand opening this Saturday and Sunday, May 10 and 11, with $5 10-inch pies and free pasta with the purchase of a large pizzia.

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