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    ain't mad about it

    Foodies rejoice: BCN spinoff to serve up paella in River Oaks District

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 10, 2019 | 11:15 am

    Next week will be a busy time at River Oaks District. The luxurious mixed-use development — which to be fussy, isn't actually in River Oaks — will welcome three new restaurants.

    In addition to seafood restaurants Ouzo Bay and Loch Bar that are opening on Monday, June 17, next week will also see the team behind Spanish fine dining restaurant BCN unveil MAD on Wednesday, June 19. Named after the airport code for the city of Madrid, MAD will expand executive chef Luis Roger's repertoire by focusing on two aspects of Spanish cooking he doesn't serve at BCN: tapas and paella.

    "Luis and I have always aimed at sharing the love of Spanish cuisine and culture with Houstonians, showcasing a culinary experience that is part exceptional interior design and innovative cuisine,” owner Ignacio Torras said in a statement. “With MAD, we hope to continue highlighting the evolution of Spanish culinary experience and spotlight the traditional tapas and paellas, which strongly label Spanish cuisine around the world.”

    Roger's menu will feature a selection of small plates that are designed to be as appealing to the eyes as they are to the palate. For example, the foie gras cornetto that presents foie gras terrine, duck consommé glaze, and colorful sprinkles in a style designed to mimic the appearance of an ice cream cone.

    Even better, MAD will feature a rotating menu of six or seven daily paella preparations, all of which will be cooked over a wood-burning fire. They'll feature imported Spanish rice and utilize a range of ingredients, such as one that combines calamari, clams, and shisito peppers.

    Just like at BCN, the cocktail menu will feature a variety of both classic and creative spins on the gin and tonic. Preparations will range from a green tea version made with matcha to a paella-inspired drink that includes tomato, lemon, egg white, and smoked paprika.

    While BCN only seats about 60 people in its main dining room, MAD will have room for almost 150 between the main dining room, bar, and patio. Torras tasked Spanish interior designer Lazaro Rosa-Violán with the responsibility for bringing the spirit of Madrid to Houston. The space features "moving mirrors" along with "Picassos and Brutalist Art throughout" to enhancing the restaurant's Spanish identity, according to a release. In addition, the restaurant's exterior features a mural designed to attract selfies.

    Although it will initially open for dinner, MAD will also offer a late-night lounge seating Thursday through Saturday from 10 pm to 1 am. In addition, the restaurant expands to add lunch service in the coming weeks.

    Torras and Roger have found success serving precisely-created Spanish cuisine in an intimate, luxurious environment. Given all the acclaim BCN has received, food lovers are buzzing about its sister concept. Stepping up to a larger space and longer hours could prove challenging, but the opportunity to sample Roger's take on tapas and paella makes the restaurant one to watch.

    MAD will feature paella cooked over a wood-burning fire.

    Arroz de calamares, almejas y Shishito
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    MAD will feature paella cooked over a wood-burning fire.
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    The Donn of Tiki

    Texas-born tiki legend shines in new documentary with Houston screening

    Brianna Caleri
    Oct 13, 2025 | 3:00 pm
    The Donn of Tiki film still
    Still from The Donn of Tiki
    The Donn of Tiki uncover's tiki culture's origins through one influential bar owner.

    It seems like the 20th century phenomenon of tiki bars would have emerged organically, with no sole progenitor, but a quick online search always turns up the late, supposedly Texas-born bar owner Donn Beach. A new documentary called The Donn of Tiki follows the history of "tiki culture" from this influential origin, aiming to "separate fact from fiction," according to a press release.

    The James Beard Media Award-nominated film will screen in Houston at the River Oaks Theatre on Tuesday, October 14. Austin can catch it at the Regal Westgate Stadium 11 on October 15.

    In the film's first moments, it defines tiki as "Cantonese food, Caribbean mixology, and South Pacific decor combined to create an aesthetic that was exotic, yet undeniably American." It also wastes no time in characterizing Beach, portrayed in this film as a whimsical claymation figure, as an unreliable narrator.

    Although Ernest Raymond Gantt, a.k.a. Donn Beach, was based in Hollywood when he opened his bar Don the Beachcomber in 1934, he was born in Mexia, Texas — or at least that's what the film settles on, using census records. The current website for the Don the Beachcomber brand, which was purchased by 23 Restaurant Services in 2022, repeats Beach's claim that his birthplace was New Orleans, Louisiana.

    The film goes on to detail the escapism of tiki culture, the surprising subtly of the mixology despite the aesthetic overkill, and the business intricacies of bootlegging and commercializing indigenous practices in Hawai'i. As it'd be a crime to film a bland documentary about tiki culture, all the interviewees pull these historical threads while wearing vivid Pacific island prints.

    Even taking into account Beach's penchant for yarn-spinning and legendary contribution to cultural appropriation, the film's official description calls him "a champion for authenticity, both in his work, and within himself."

    Audience members at the Houston screening will be able to learn more from co-director Max Well during a post-screening Q&A. For now, local screenings offer the only opportunities the general public will have to see the film. However, an FAQ page on the documentary's website says the team is working on a Blu-Ray release with more content, including recipes, and they expect the film to eventually be available on demand on platforms such as Amazon Video and Apple TV.

    The River Oaks Theater will host two screenings at 7:15 pm and 8:45 pm. Tickets ($21) are available here.

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