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    Tattered Jeans

    An oil spill revisited: A fisherman lives day to day in the Louisiana bayou

    Katie Oxford
    Jun 3, 2013 | 11:07 am

    Editor's Note: In 2010, Katie Oxford filed a series of riveting columns from the heart of the Gulf oil spill disaster. She recently returned to Louisiana. This is her eighth column in a series. It picks up with her visiting a fisherman affected by the BP spill to see how he is doing three years later.

    On the Bayou DuLarge, spring was breaking wide open. I thought of that line, “LIVE, it’s Saturday night!” I wanted to shout something too. Strip and run naked through the woods. The hound dog in me took hold like a fever.

    Maybe, it’s because along Bayou DuLarge, life is in your face. Here, Force of Nature seems to rule. Not the courts or our need for justice. As life goes, it’s both beautiful and cruel.

    Three years ago, I traveled this stretch of LA-315 that hugs the Bayou like a girdle. At a dock near Theriot, I’d met up with some good folks from Motivatit Seafood. We launched our boats and traveled to Lake Mechant where we then hopped on to another and in an instant I was hooked. Mesmerized by the motion and sound of oyster fishing.

    Even with the color red spilling everywhere, something strangely beautiful seemed to be going on. Something secret.

    Now, I was traveling LA-315 again only this time, to visit another fisherman, Rickey Verrett. I found him where I’d first seen him. At his home he calls the STAB-N-CABIN, which sits inches, not feet from the Bayou DuLarge.

    Rickey had had to rebuild his home after Hurricane Rita then, again after Hurricane Ike. But as is so common in the Louisiana people, place is at the heart of everything. Houses might move but never the people, from Louisiana.

    This day, I found Rickey behind his cabin breaking a sweat and a few bones. “Cleaning gar fish!” Rickey called out, looking up from his work and smiling big.

    A Houma Indian, Rickey has lived and fished along the Bayou DuLarge all of his life. On this Wednesday before Easter, he’d caught 40 alligator gar by 7:30 a.m. Interestingly, Rickey told me, they’d all been sold to a guy in Houston.

    “They must taste pretty good,” I commented.

    “Oh yea!” Rickey exclaimed. “It’s good eating. Like chicken.”

    “Like pork chops with ketchup,” added Nathan, Rickey’s friend.

    While Rickey continued cleaning his catch, I asked questions. Occasionally, dodging bits of fish flying from Rickey’s dock.

    “Everything’s about the same,” Rickey said, pausing. “You know you gotta be good at what you do. You gotta like what you’re doing.”

    Apparently, Rickey is as good at cleaning fish as he is at catching them. There was a rhythm in his work similar to what I’d experienced on the oyster boat. He moved with ease and skill and something else I couldn’t quite put my finger on. Even with the color red spilling everywhere, something strangely beautiful seemed to be going on. Something secret. Between fisherman and fish.

    What was the biggest garfish he’d ever caught I had to ask.

    “The longest was about eight feet long,” Rickey said quietly, not looking up. “Probably 100 pounds dressed, 135 to 140 undressed.” For those who wonder as I did, dressed means gutted and cleaned.

    Rickey plopped one garfish onto the table after another. He and Nathan occasionally bantered back and forth like between a big brother and his little brother.

    For those who wonder as I did, dressed means gutted and cleaned.

    Finally, when the last garfish was gutted and cleaned, Rickey paused. He still had work to do like hauling his catch to where the garfish would be packed and then shipped to Houston.

    I fired a few photographs of Rickey and made small talk.

    “When’s your birthday?” I asked.

    “Every 10 years,” he smiled.

    OK, really I insisted.

    “I was hatched on November 8th,” he said, smiling bigger.

    Good Friday was two days away and I wondered how he was spending it.

    “You can’t make blood and you can’t dig holes,” Rickey explained. “Everybody on the Bayou eats crab.”

    It was almost 11 a.m. and getting warmer. Rickey headed for his truck, now loaded with garfish. I thanked him and asked him to keep in touch.

    Later, further down the road, I was taking photographs when he blew by beeping his horn and waving from the window.

    I waved back big, still musing on that mysterious thing between Rickey and the garfish.

    I remembered what a Cajun friend once told me. “Real Cajun is hand to mouth livin’,” he said. “Cajun is real livin’.”

    Rickey Verrett, right, and friend Nathan

    7 Katie Louisiana Revisited part 8 June 2013 Rickey Verrett Nathan and Rickey
      
    Photo by Katie Oxford
    Rickey Verrett, right, and friend Nathan
    unspecified
    news/city-life

    Hot Headlines

    Dallas Tex-Mex staple's sudden Houston shutter leads our top 5 stories

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 5, 2025 | 11:00 am
    Mi Cocina
    Mi Cocina
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    Editor's note: It's time to look back at the top Houston news of the week. In addition to culinary accolades, this week's top stories include a Tex-Mex shutter and the wealthiest Houstonians of them all. Read more below, then consult this guide for some weekend fun.

    1. Dallas Tex-Mex staple shutters only Houston location after less than 2 years. Dallas-based Tex-Mex restaurant Mi Cocina quietly closed its only Houston location; it shuttered March 20.

    2. Houston’s top 10 restaurants of 2025 reflect the city’s culinary excellence. The 2025 Tastemaker Awards nominees for Houston Restaurant of the Year are a diverse bunch, ranging from an intimate, 30-seat dining room to a prime location at one of Houston’s biggest tourist attractions. Meet the nominees, then click here to see who won.

    3. 4 Houston chefs and restaurants are James Beard Award finalists. Houston had a strong showing among the finalists for this year’s James Beard Awards. The city’s chefs and restaurants scored two nominations in nationwide categories as well as two of the five nominations for Best Chef: Texas.

    March restaurant dining roomMarch is nominated for its beverage program. Photo by Julie Soefer

    4. A Houston brewery's beastly new hot dog and 5 more can't-miss glizzys. When it comes to hot dogs, Houston has some very delicious options. Craving a glizzy? Consider these "best of the wursts."

    5. 18 wealthy Houstonians land on 2025 Forbes list of world's billionaires. The world’s richest people are wealthier now than they've ever been, and more billionaires have made it onto the 2025 World's Billionaires List than ever before, according to Forbes. This year, 18 Houston-based billionaires are among the richest people in the world.

    billionairesclosed restaurantsclosingsforbeshot doghot-headlinesjames beard awardsjames beard finalistsmost popular storiestastemaker awardstex-mextilman fertittawealthiest houstonians
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