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    Introducing Musaafer

    Ambitious and exotic new Indian restaurant unveils huge plans to spice up the Galleria

    Eric Sandler
    May 1, 2018 | 9:05 am

    For almost six months, a banner on the side of Galleria VI has advertised something called “Spice Route” as a companion to Blanco Tacos & Tequila, Fig & Olive, and Nobu.

    But what is “Spice Route?” And how does it compare to two prominent, New York-based restaurant brands and a Mexican restaurant from Fox Restaurant Concepts, the Arizona-based company behind North Italia and True Food Kitchen?

    First of all, the banner didn’t provide Houstonians with the restaurant’s complete name. Rather than “Spice Route,” it’s called Musaafer by The Spice Route Company (pronounced "mu-sa-fer"). The name, which is derived from the Hindi word for “traveler,” offers some insight into the goals owners Shammi and Mithu Malik have for the restaurant, which will be the Dubai-based Spice Route Company's first American restaurant.

    Simply put, Musaafer wants to take Houstonians on a culinary journey to parts of India they likely haven't experienced before. As Mithu Malik explains to CultureMap, most of the Indian restaurants in America focus on northern Indian cuisine. At Musaafer, they intend to take diners beyond familiar favorites like butter chicken or chicken tikka masala, which Malik says “doesn’t really exist” in India. The couple wants to bring a more authentic taste of their homeland to the United States.

    “We wanted to bring the food in its entirety, not limited to one part of India, but bring all of the country and serve it the way I would like to eat it,” Malik says.

    They chose Houston for the restaurant’s first location — the plan is to grow nationwide — for several reasons.

    “It seems to be on the brink of this massive food explosion,” Malik says. “We have some people we knew and visited. We really liked the place. So far, we’re loving it.”

    To achieve that goal, they sent chefs Mayank Istwal and Shivek Suri on a 100-day journey across the country. The chefs collected recipes everywhere they visited, from big cities to tiny towns.

    “We had contacts with people that could take them right into the little places where they cooked on clay ovens,” Malik says. “There's no gas or electricity in those kind of villages. The idea is to get a true idea of the flavors in those regions.”

    The result of those efforts range from a dozen different regional versions of the garam masala spice blend to enough elevated recipes to power a multi-course tasting menu that's designed to take diners on a journey across the country, but the restaurant will offer a variety of experiences. A bar menu and an a la carte menu will also be available for diners who want more say in their experience.

    Not surprisingly, it won’t just be the food that will have diners feeling like they took a flight to Mumbai. The Maliks hired Chromed Design Studio, an award-winning, New Delhi-based firm, to craft elaborate interiors for the 10,000-square-foot space; if the renderings displayed above are accurate, Musaafer will be one of Houston’s most colorful restaurants.

    “It’s going to be a vibrant experience. It’s fabulously designed,” Malik says. Later, she adds, “We want you to feel like you’re in our beautiful country having our beautiful food.”

    That’s certainly an ambitious goal, but it’s one that Musaafer will have to achieve if it wants to stand out from both its Galleria-area competition like Yauatcha, Caracol, and Steak 48 and Houston’s high-profile Indian restaurants like Himalaya, Pondicheri, and Kiran’s. Then again, the city has seen high-profile, high-style restaurants with out of town owners before — remember when Katsuya by Starck was going to revolutionize Japanese-inspired dining or Bradley Ogden was going to open 200 Funky Chickens across the country?

    Let's put this another way. With the sports world still buzzing about the results of last week’s NFL draft, perhaps it’s best to compare Musaafer to first overall pick Baker Mayfield. No player has a higher ceiling or a lower floor. Either the Heisman trophy winner will lift the Cleveland Browns to a bright future or he’ll be the latest in a string of quarterback busts for the downtrodden franchise.

    So it is with Musaafer. No restaurant that’s opening in Houston this year has more potential to become either a smash hit or a cautionary tale. Hopefully, it's the former.

    Materials are sourced from India.

    Musaafer by The Spice Route Company Galleria rendering
    Courtesy image
    Materials are sourced from India.
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    New Year's greetings

    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
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