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    Smokin' glory

    Houston barbecue finally gets its day: First-ever BBQ fest to fill bellies, change hearts

    Ruthie Miller
    Ruthie Miller
    Mar 19, 2013 | 4:44 pm

    How we’ve gone this long without an area barbecue festival is beyond comprehension, but two of Houston’s most enthusiastic meatheads have taken it upon themselves to remedy that, saving our town from a low-down smokin’ shame. Yes, this Sunday is the first annual Houston BBQ Festival at the Bayou City Event Center, and we recently sat down with organizers Chris Reid and Michael Fulmer to talk shop.

    Reid and Fulmer are two seasoned smoke experts, traveling to the far reaches of the state and country in search of brisket glory.

    CultureMap: Why did you decide to create this festival?

    Michael Fulmer: It was just an idea whose time has come. It’s something we’d been talking about for years. We realized through our travels in Central and East Texas, meeting people and sampling BBQ, that it was time to showcase the great things happening in our own backyard.

    "No one here has to settle for mediocre BBQ."

    Chris Reid: Texas-style BBQ has just exploded over the past few years across the U.S. You can find it in New York, Los Angeles, all over — but it’s always Central Texas BBQ. There’s fantastic BBQ here, too, that gets no attention. So we wanted to do something to recognize the great stuff right here in our area.

    CultureMap: What's your goal for the festival?

    Michael Fulmer: This is a celebration. We want everyone to celebrate what we have here. That includes not just the attendees, but the sellers and vendors too. We want to honor this whole community. Really the goal is that we want people to want to come back for next year’s event.

    Chris Reid: We also want to turn these pitmasters into rock stars for a day. This is their day. They’re taking days off to be there. Attendees are there to see them and talk to them and hear their stories, and we basically just want to shine a light on them and let them be the heroes for a day.

    CultureMap: Why do you think Houston BBQ gets such a bad name?

    Chris Reid: There’s been a lot of what I call “Lowest Common Denominator BBQ” that satisfies people. BBQ is so popular that it’s almost become automated — anyone can buy a cheap machine, put the meat in, go home and then done. But in the last few years, the newer joints are setting a higher bar, and the older places have stepped up their games, too, taking trips to Central Texas and re-tooling their operations. There’s more of an awareness that there’s a high standard, and that standard is filtering down to Houston.

    CultureMap: With bad publicity surrounding some other recent festivals what are you doing to ensure a good experience?

    Michael Fulmer: That was the first thing on our minds. If we’re going to do it, we’re going to do it right: Limit the number of tickets sold, ensure a quality experience for attendees and vendors. If we’re true to our idea of celebrating these people, the quality of the experience has to be our guiding force. We’re spending the extra money where needed to make it a good experience.

    "Houston’s not like Lockhart where you have four places within walking distance. We’re bringing them together for everyone to enjoy in one place."

    Chris Reid: This is a first-year festival. We don’t have expectations of perfection. All we can do is work hard enough to cover our bases and put everything in place to have a great festival. We’re talking to people, taking advice, imagining scenarios and doing everything we can.

    CultureMap: What can attendees expect?

    Michael Fulmer: They can expect a huge variety of Houston BBQ. We’re curating these joints from all over the area — Atascocita, Spring, Westchase, and more. Houston’s not like Lockhart where you have four places within walking distance. We’re bringing them together for everyone to enjoy in one place.

    Chris Reid: The ideal is that we want someone that has a regular BBQ joint to have a great experience, be introduced to other BBQ joints, and then be willing to drive to a new place to see what’s out there. No one here has to settle for mediocre BBQ.

    CultureMap: What are you most excited about with this festival?

    Chris Reid: Pitmasters being together, learning from each other. These guys are super friendly and hard working. You just don’t meet indifferent people in the BBQ world. I’m really looking forward to that general feeling of camaraderie.

    Michael Fulmer: When you walk into an environment and you smell the smoke, there’s just that Pavlovian reaction . . . I want BBQ. We’re going to have lots of smokers out there, these guys are going to be up all night, getting it right for the festival. That to me is exciting, the devotion.

    Learn more about this Sunday’s first annual Houston BBQ Festival here.

    Sometimes barbecue nerds eat other things, too. Here, Chris Reid demonstrates the proper way to eat crab.

    Houston Barbecue Festival, March 2013, Chris Reid, crab
      
    Photo by Ruthie Miller
    Sometimes barbecue nerds eat other things, too. Here, Chris Reid demonstrates the proper way to eat crab.
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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 459 and 460

    Meet the men behind Houston's most under-the-radar Italian restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Apr 18, 2025 | 5:00 pm
    Fernando Rios Mike Sammons Mimo
    Courtesy of Mimo
    Chef Fernando Rios and sommelier Mike Sammons are this week's guests.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” sommelier Mike Sammons and chef Fernando Rios join CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Mimo, their Italian restaurant in the East End. The duo, whose history goes back to when they worked together at iconic Houston fine dining restaurant Da Marco, opened Mimo in 2023.



    The conversation begins with Rios explaining the progression of a career that took him from Backstreet Cafe to Da Marco to Weights + Measures, where he worked as the chef de cuisine while Sammons was a partner who oversaw the beverage program. Since they both live in the East End, they saw an opportunity to team up by claiming the former Kanomwan space on Telephone Rd.

    They discuss several aspects of the restaurant’s business, including Rios’ changes to the menu, the evolution of Mimo’s wine list, and how its been received by residents of the East End. A digression about Da Marco prompts Sandler to ask about its chef-owner Marco Wiles, who generally stays out of the media spotlight. Sammons shares that Wiles is the only chef or restaurateur who makes him nervous when he dines at Mimo.

    “He’s really not forgiving about things. This is very consistent with the Italian way of looking at things — there’s a right way to do things and that’s it. If it isn’t done that way, it’s wrong. A lot of my other mentors and friends can be more forgiving, but the standards Marco has kept for years has motivated me,” Sammons says.

    “He’s still the same way,” Rios adds. “That was insane to me. I thought, you get older, you’d be more relaxed, but the way he looks at you makes you nervous. Working in the kitchen, there was times he’d throw all my stuff away and say ‘start over.’”

    Was he right, Sandler asks.

    “Absolutely, yes. He was right all the time. I just think he was one of the best to do it,” Rios affirms.

    Listen to the full interview to hear both men discuss the one thing they’re most proud of about Mimo. They also discuss their plans for the future.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Houston’s finalists in this year’s James Beard Awards, the owners of Jūn adding a daytime concept called Third Place, and Aaron Bludorn promoting chef Allie Pena to be Bludorn’s new executive chef.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, Sandler and Clarkson visit Camaraderie, chef Shawn Gawle’s new restaurant in the Heights. They share their thoughts on the restaurant’s prix fixe menu, as well as its decor and beverage offerings.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.

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