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    Food for Thought

    Why American grocery store ham is a gross travesty: And where you can find the true good stuff

    Marene Gustin
    Marene Gustin
    Mar 15, 2014 | 7:05 pm

    What the heck is wrong with American supermarket ham?

    Well, pretty much everything.

    I’ve never been a fan of ham. I love bacon (who doesn’t?), and a crispy-skinned roasted suckling pig is to die for. And those pork tenderloins you can get from Central Market seasoned with Hatch chiles? Check. Or cantaloupe chunks wrapped in paper-thin slices of prosciutto? Check, check.

    But that pale, mushy, almost flavorless spiral thing that comes in a tin can that your relatives serve at Easter? No. Heck no. How is it that we can take a noble pig and turn it into this? Then again we are the country that invented processed white bread, so there you go.

    Apparently ham is like chocolate in Spain. And why not?

    Anyway, with the upcoming Easter holiday and people sending me photos from Spain, (I’ll get to this in a minute) I’ve been thinking about ham a lot. When it comes to breakfast tacos and omelets on weekends I routinely order them with everything BUT ham. And maybe mushrooms. They are both a texture thing and their lesser versions are rarely tasty.

    But American supermarket ham pales (literally) in comparison with the real deal that you find in other countries. Like Spain.

    This summer some friends of mine toured Spain and posted photos on Facebook of . . . ham. Hanging hams in markets, ham dishes and even vending machines that dispense ham snacks. Apparently ham is like chocolate in Spain.

    And why not? Real ham, the kind you find in Europe and some places right here in Houston, is much more delicious than the mass market stuff you’ll find at the supermarket.

    And then my sister just moved to Barcelona. She also sent photos of hams, hams everywhere. In vending machines, in restaurants, even whole legs hanging in grocery stores — glorious, delicious hams everywhere! Not only is Spain the largest producer of cured ham, but its citizens also eat more of it than anyone else.

    A Spanish Food Lesson

    The Spanish people know how to make great ham. Jamón Iberico de Bellota is considered the finest ham in the world, it comes from hogs raised free-range, munching on acorns and herbs. The meat is cured for up to four years before it’s sold for about $150 a pound. Yeah, that’s a heck of a lot more than you would pay for a Honeybaked ham but the difference in taste is amazing.

    The meat is cured for up to four years before it’s sold for about $150 a pound.

    Now if you aren’t heading to Spain before Easter, you can order some fine Spanish hams online from sites like La Tienda, a very drool worthy site. And Central Market usually has some pretty good Spanish hams in the deli section.

    Or, you can go local and stop by Revival Market for some delicious Mangalitsa meat. Co-owner Morgan Weber raises the heritage poodle pigs at his farm in Yoakum,. These pigs taste like pigs should, like they did in the old days before factory farms started turning out super lean, bland tasting pork shot full of hormones and other drugs. Sure, you’ll pay a little more for these piggies, but they’re worth it.

    So this Easter forego the canned ham and get some real pork on the table.

    Real ham, the kind you find in Europe and some places right here in Houston, is much more delicious than the mass market stuff you’ll find at the supermarket.

    Marene, it's not the other white meat, at the grocery store, ham on the hoof, or at least the hoof on the ham
      
    Courtesy photo
    Real ham, the kind you find in Europe and some places right here in Houston, is much more delicious than the mass market stuff you’ll find at the supermarket.
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

    a CultureMap Exclusive

    Canadian comfort food restaurant puts down roots in prime Houston spot

    Eric Sandler
    Apr 29, 2025 | 12:46 pm
    Cactus Club Cafe exterior
    Courtesy of Cactus Club Cafe
    Cactus Club Cafe is coming to Houston.

    One of Canada’s most popular restaurants is coming to Houston. Cactus Club Cafe will open its third U.S. location in the BLVD Place development.

    Located next to North Italia in a former Verizon store, Cactus Club Cafe will occupy a two-level space with more than 12,000 square feet. Founded in Vancouver in 1988, the restaurant, which describes itself in press materials as "Canada’s leader in elevated casual dining" is known for its wide range of comfort food, lively environment, and excellent service.

    Christine Mastandrea, president and COO for real estate development firm Whitestone REIT, tells CultureMap that the company wanted to add a restaurant to increase traffic at the Whole Foods-anchored development.

    While many of the restaurants on Post Oak Blvd. are fine dining — a list that includes The Annie Cafe, Uchiko, and Caracol (among many others) — Whitestone decided a more casual restaurant would serve the neighborhood well.

    “You have to mix in locations people can go back to, because it has a broad range of offerings. You have a place where people connect,” Mastandrea says. “It’s a price point where you can come often. You can meet up with your neighborhood friends there or go after work, because it doesn’t break the bank.”

    Whitestone had a lot of interest from operators who wanted to join North Italia, True Foods Kitchen, and The Original Ninfa’s in the development, Mastandrea adds. When she traveled to Toronto to visit Cactus Club, she liked what she found.

    “What I saw is, number one, they’re comfortable in two stories. They’re also aware of how to operate in a multi-level building. They design to be a good neighbor,” Mastandrea says. “The consistency across locations was the same. The quality of food, the flow of people coming in and out. The other thing is, people are looking for healthier options. They have choices.”

    For its part, Cactus Club saw an opportunity to add Houston to its growing list of American locations that, for now, only includes Miami and Boston.

    “Our dedicated team is working hard to bring Cactus Club Cafe’s elevated everyday dining to Houston,” president Andrew Latchford said in a statement. “We look forward to sharing our upbeat and stylish vibe — fueled by energetic music, magnetic people, and spaces that feel as good as they look. On the culinary side of things, our future Houston guests can look forward to our chef-driven menu to deliver bold, refined dishes with something for every craving.”

    That menu, created by executive chef of culinary development Gregory McCallum, offers a crowd-pleasing array of dishes that includes sushi, shareables such as chicken wings and lettuce wraps, salads, sandwiches, burgers, pastas, steaks, and seafood. In particular, Mastandrea says the signature Truffle Parmesan Chicken and Blackened Creole Chicken shows off the restaurant’s ability to serve flavorful versions of familiar fare.

    “They walked me through this whole process of how they brined it and treated it prior to cooking,” she says about the chicken dishes she tried. “For a meat that can be bland tasting, I thought it was really good.”

    Mastandrea also praised the restaurant’s interior. Cactus Club gives each location a unique look by purchasing original art to enhance the restaurant’s ambiance.

    “They pay special attention to bringing the outdoors into the space,” she adds. “I think they’ll surprise us with some things that are unique to the area that people will appreciate.”

    Cactus Club Cafe exterior
      

    Courtesy of Cactus Club Cafe

    Cactus Club Cafe is coming to Houston.

    news/restaurants-bars

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