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    South of France Meets Italy

    A sumptuous affair: "Ooh la la" and "la bella vita" converge at Hotel Granduca dinner

    Davon D.E. Hatchett
    Davon D.E. Hatchett
    Mar 2, 2013 | 1:00 pm

    Ristorante Cavour at Hotel Granduca recently served as the lush and intimate setting for a fortunate dinner crowd of about two dozen, at an exclusive culinary experience orchestrated by celebrated Michelin-star French chef Xavier Mathieu and Ristorante Cavour Italian Master Chef Renato De Pirro.

    The luxurious five-course meal was indeed a taste of "la bella vita," or "the beautiful life," as the two gastronomical masterminds conspired to delight both the eyes and the appetite. To complement the phenomenal menu, wines provided by premier importer Maisons Marques & Domaines were matched to perfection and poured generously with every course.

    The first course was less like an appetizer and more like a mélange of amuse-bouches instead, and each bite definitely delighted the palate. The course consisted of marinated salmon with tarragon oil, foie gras with quince and orange blossom, poached quail egg and vegetables in anchoïade and cumin and cucumber gazpacho.

    The luxurious five-course meal was indeed a taste of "la bella vita," as the two gastronomical masterminds conspired to delight both the eyes and the appetite .

    The surprise of the bunch was the gazpacho, which was truly elevated by the addition of the cumin. It paired with the Roederer Estate sparkling wine which, with its crisp flavors, was the consummate foil to each of the very different taste sensations presented during the course.

    Mushroom risotto with black truffles, paired with 2009 Domaines Schlumberger Pinot Gris, made up the second course, followed by a braised beef cheek and oxtail with beet mustard and honey carrots — one of the dazzling highlights of the meal.

    The supple, flavorful shreds of beef were enveloped in a savory sauce which perfectly complemented the sweet carrots. Even more palate pleasing was the 2009 Delas Châteauneuf-du-Pape served with it. With a single sip one can fully understand what all of the storied Châteauneuf fuss is about.

    The fourth course, as any Francophile worth his or her salt might expect, was a cheese course consisting of Banon, a French goat milk cheese, and a quintessential Italian Parmesan cheese. The chocolaty, intense cherry-berry richness of the 2004 Late Bottled Vintage (LBV) Ramos Pinto port served alongside the cheese course was particularly well-played against the crumbly, salty parmesan.

    Knowing that you can't go wrong with Nutella, the grand finale was a profiterole filled with the creamy chocolate-hazelnut spread, served with a lavender white chocolate and lemon sorbet.

    The night wasn't solely about deliciousness though: A portion of the proceeds was donated by the Consulate of France to the Texan French Alliance for the Arts, an organization dedicated to the promotion of cultural exchanges between France and Texas.

    This culinary collaborative effort was an exquisitely successful meeting of chef minds that was only elevated by perfect wine pairings. As Masisons Marques & Domaines representative Dominique Moran said, "It is not difficult to fall in love with great wines."

    The third course included beef cheeks and oxtails with honeyed carrots.

    Davon, Granduca dinner, South of France Meets Italy, March 2013, Beef cheeks and oxtail
    Photo by Davon Hatchett
    The third course included beef cheeks and oxtails with honeyed carrots.
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    head east

    Eagerly-anticipated Houston barbecue joint hosts weekend preview pop-ups

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 18, 2025 | 3:30 pm
    Eastbound Barbecue food
    Courtesy of Eastbound Barbecue
    Get a first taste of Eastbound Barbecue this weekend.

    One of Houston’s most eagerly anticipated new barbecue joints is giving diners a preview of what’s to come. Eastbound Barbecue will host “Sneak Peak Weekends” every Saturday and Sunday beginning this Saturday, December 20, until the restaurant opens in early 2026.

    Held at the restaurant’s location in the East End (1105 Sampson Street) from 12-4 pm (or sold out), the weekend service gives diners their first chance to try Eastbound Barbecue’s smoked meats, sides, and desserts. That includes, smoked brisket, baby back ribs, jalapeno & cheese sausage, hatch chili lasagna mac & cheese, herbed potato salad, and more. Save room for the two dessert offerings, salted caramel banana pudding and cookie butter cake.

    To distinguish Eastbound’s barbecue, chefs Lopez and Granville use different seasonings than other restaurants, such as rosemary salt in the brisket rub and a miso-caramel sauce that gives its ribs a sweet and savory bite. During the preview, Eastbound’s prices are noticeably lower than many other Houston barbecue joints, with brisket priced at $29 per pound, ribs at $26 per pound, and pulled pork at $22 per pound.

    As CultureMap reported in August, Eastbound unites four friends, Ryan Penn, Ryan Powell, Luis Lopez, and Jake Granville, who also held senior roles at various restaurants owned by prominent Houston chef Ronnie Killen. Since then, the four partners have finished many of the improvements they needed to make prior to opening, including closing in the patio and installing offset smokers on the property.

    For Penn, leaving the Killen’s organization after almost 20 years was a difficult decision, but one he felt he had to make. “I could have worked for [Killen] forever and been happy. It was more along the lines of, if I don’t do this now, I don’t want to be 70 and wish that I had,” he said at the time.

    Eastbound Barbecue food

    Courtesy of Eastbound Barbecue

    Get a first taste of Eastbound Barbecue this weekend.

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