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    Food Critic Blasted

    Houston Chronicle restaurant critic ranked low in integrity in national chefs survey: When food reviewers are rated

    Eric Sandler
    Feb 14, 2015 | 10:04 am

    Leave it to national food website The Daily Meal to add a little spice to Valentine's weekend by releasing its annual ranking of the country's most prominent critics and food writers. For the third year in a row, a panel of anonymous chefs ranked 28 critics according to their culinary knowledge, prose style, integrity and with who you'd "like to share a meal."

    For the third year in a row, the representatives from Texas fair poorly overall, with none in the top third of the 28 critics that are ranked by the survey.

    Texas Monthly editor Pat Sharpe comes in the highest at 11. She's followed by former Houstonia critic Robb Walsh at 19, Texas Monthly barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn at 21, Houston Chronicle critic Alison Cook at 22 and Dallas Morning News critic Leslie Brenner at 26.

    Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the rankings is how poorly Cook fares in the category of "integrity." At only 1.6 stars on a four point scale, she's third from the bottom. Even Brenner, who's so reviled by some Dallas chefs that they've banded together to lobby the Morning News to change its ranking system, comes in ahead of Cook in integrity.

    The only hint at to the chefs problems with Cook comes from a summary that reads "Plays favorites and is heavily swayed towards any chef from Houston."

    The most surprising aspect of the rankings is how poorly Cook fares in the category of "integrity."

    That national perception is at odds with how Cook is perceived locally where most chefs seem to value her opinions. A party that celebrated her annual ranking of Houston's Top 100 restaurants attracted a who's who of the city's culinary community. Ronnie Killen was so disappointed by his steakhouse dropping out of the Top 10 that he hired a new chef to right the ship.

    In 2012, Cook reacted strongly to the results of this survey, when she placed 18 out of the 20 restaurant critics reviewed. "So. Does it hurt to find your lifetime of work is disrespected nationally and locally? Yes, it does But please continue," she wrote at the time.

    How does Cook feel about it today? So far, the Chronicle critic has yet to respond to an email asking for comment on her low integrity ranking.

    Elsewhere, New York Times critic Pete Wells takes over the top spot from Jonathan Gold of the Los Angeles Times. Bill Addison, the Eater national critic who published a well-regarded look at the country's 38 most essential restaurants, comes in at No. 12.

    With the overall rankings, is it any wonder that the most high profile, nationally prominent critics fare best? How often do chefs from outside of Texas read either Cook or Brenner?

    It's certainly possible — even likely — that the answers are "not very" and "not very often, if ever." Even including Walsh, who stepped down from a full-time role at Houstonia and has now left the magazine entirely, seems a little out of touch with the current state of Texas food writing.

    Daily Meal executive editor Arthur Bovino tells CultureMap in an email that the survey includes responses from dozens of chefs across America. "We certainly reached out to chefs in Houston, but the state’s city that represented the Texan chef perspective this year most was Dallas," Bovino writes. Two who chose to identify themselves are: Fierce Brenner critic John Tesar of Knife and Brian Zenner of Oak.

    While Bovino emails that the chefs didn't offer any specific examples of Cook's perceived favoritism, he does note that she has never ranked highly in the survey.

    "Consider that she did fall five spots overall this year to 22nd after last year’s brief blip up," he writes. "And while her overall 2.15 star score may be higher than the 1.84 she scored in 2012 . . . her 22nd place finish this year is not far from her 18th place finish then (1.92 stars)."

    Leslie Brenner was the third worst critic in the survey.

    Dallas Morning News restaurant critic Leslie Brenner
    Courtesy photo
    Leslie Brenner was the third worst critic in the survey.
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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Sneak peek at members-only wine club and restaurant opening soon in Upper Kirby

    Eric Sandler
    Oct 2, 2026 | 10:22 am
    55 Seventy Houston rendering
    Courtesy of 55 Seventy
    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    A wine-driven, members-only club is currently under construction next to Upper Kirby’s Levy Park. Called 55 Seventy, the game-changing facility is on track to open at the end of November.

    Prior to opening 55 Seventy’s original Dallas location in 2022, founder Tommy Shuey worked in finance. During the Covid-19 pandemic, he started looking around for new business ventures and quickly discovered that Dallas’ private wine storage facilities were completely sold out, despite, in his assessment, being relatively out of the way compared to where its clients live and not very nice inside.

    “The thought was, why don't I just make this nicer and charge more and put it in their backyard and really offer that quality and convenience that I feel like a wine collector would appreciate on storing wine,” Shuey tells CultureMap.

    He also envisioned a club component that would offer more than just a place for collectors to drink. It would provide a full service restaurant that serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily, along with the ability to host private events with custom menus. Dallasite embraced the concept, selling out memberships and prompting Shuey and his partner, sommelier Jeff Gregory, to search for a second location. They quickly identified Houston as the right place to expand.

    Bigger and better

    “Our winery partners, when they come for a tasting, they always go to Houston first or second,” Shuey says. Later, he adds, “The more I started digging into this Houston market, the more this is not going to be news to you, but you start unraveling this underbelly of wine in Houston. I'm convinced that Houston is the largest wine city in the country. It is unbelievable.”

    With lessons learned from the Dallas location, Houston’s 55 Seventy will be even more grand — a 30,000-square-foot, newly constructed building that will be able to hold as many as 150,000 bottles of wine while offering its members two restaurants, a demonstration kitchen, lounge areas, private dining and meeting spaces, and an art gallery. Houston's Gin Design Group is handling the interiors; as illustrated above, the club will have an Art Deco-inspired design.

    55 Seventy Houston rendering

    Courtesy of 55 Seventy

    The main restaurant will serve elevated American fare.

    “We've learned so much. A lot of it is learning, hey, we have to do this differently or we want to do it this way,” Shuey says. “And some of it's a guess. I think people are going to use the club differently from Dallas. I think Houston is a later city, and I think that they come in bigger groups more frequently than Dallas.

    “The one thing we know for sure is that Houston is a more adventurous food city. And it's a higher bar than Dallas. And so we hired two chefs, both of Michelin experience, to elevate the program.”

    While the food program will follow the template created in Dallas by executive chef and partner Josh Sutcliff, a veteran of Dallas’ acclaimed FT33 who’s committed to local sourcing and scratch cooking, day-to-day operations will be overseen by executive chef Diego Fernandez, who brings experience from Michelin-starred restaurants Alinea (Chicago), Quince (San Francisco), and time with research and development team at Pappas Restaurants. Executive banquet chef Jacob Solomon brings experience from the Michael Mina group to all of 55 Seventy’s private dining and events.

    55 Seventy’s main restaurant is located on its first floor. It will feature a wide-ranging menu centered around steak and seafood, along with sushi and vegetarian items. Shuey notes that many items will be able to be modified to accommodate gluten-free and other food allergies. Whereas the Dallas location opened with a 220-square-foot kitchen, later expanded to 660, the Houston club will have almost 2,000 square feet of kitchen space, giving both chefs plenty of room to cook.

    The second restaurant is called Canopy Bar. Located on the roof, it will serve pizzas and other Mediterranean-style fare. A nano wall will protect diners from the elements.

    “The goal is to have something a little more casual and approachable,” Shuey says. “I think what we're most excited about is to have those two very different restaurant options for our members versus in Dallas.”

    Shuey has made a similar commitment to the wine side of 55 Seventy by recruiting master sommelier Justin Moore to serve as executive director of wine. Most recently with Washington, D.C.’s Rose’s Restaurant Group that operates three, one-star Michelin restaurants — Pineapple and Pearls, Rose’s Luxury, and Little Pearl — Moore will oversee the club’s wine list as well as a wine brokerage service that will help members grow their collections.

    “I have deep respect for the classic benchmark producers, and I love finding the bottle nobody has heard of yet,” Moore said in a statement. “Houston appreciates both, and our list will reflect that.”

    Who the members are

    Two months before opening, 55 Seventy has already sold about 1,000 memberships. Ultimately, the club could offer as many as 3,000, but Shuey wants to build that slow. For now, the aim is to have enough people that both restaurants feel lively and that members are able to make connections with each other over great bottles.

    Beyond being able to pay the various fees — an initial payment of $6,000 for an individual, $7,500 for a couple, or $20,000 for a company, plus about $500 per month — Shuey says members typical have a certain perspective in common.

    “It's somebody who is at the stage of their life where they appreciate the finer things, food, wine, cocktails, and hospitality. If they're willing to appreciate the fact that we are sourcing our beef from a local producer, and they'll pay a little bit more for that because it's quality. It's somebody who wants their wine made by hand by a winemaker who's reputable and not by a machine and a factory somewhere. It's really somebody that wants our staff to know their name when they walk in and feel appreciated.

    “You're talking about partners at law firms, business owners, wealth management, firm partners, you're talking about people that live in the area and just love food and wine. People that work in the industry that have that like real appreciation for what we're building. And we don't want it to be stuffy. We want it to be approachable.”

    As he notes, service is a big part of 55 Seventy’s appeal. Since it isn’t operating with the same financial considerations as a stand-alone restaurant, the club doesn’t need to turn tables. A member can claim a spot all night, drink a bottle from their cellar, and eat as much or as little as they want to.

    55 Seventy is expected to open on Friday, November 27. It will be located at 3015 Richmond Ave. Membership inquiries may be directed to membership.houston@55seventy.com.

    openingsnews-you-can-eatwine55 seventy
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