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    Like coming home

    Ninfa's new neighbor competitor restaurant opens with a bang, heating up the Tex-Mex battle

    Tyler Rudick
    Feb 14, 2013 | 7:29 am

    After more than a decade, the Laurenzo family is back on Navigation — the East End thoroughfare where matriarch Mama Ninfa Laurenzo opened her namesake cafe in 1973.

    "This is where it all started, so it's like coming home," says Roland Laurenzo from the newest branch of El Tiempo, which opened this week just steps from his mother's original Tex-Mex restaurant.

    Roland, his wife Bianca and his son Domenic launched El Tiempo in 1998 when the Ninfa's empire slipped from family control. In the last 15 years, the Laurenzos have carried Mama's torch to four other Tiempo outposts.

    "We didn't want it to feel like it was brand new. We've tried to hire as many local artisans as possible, which helps things feel a little older and cared for. ""

    But the Laurenzos' new location on Navigation presents a bit of a conundrum for Houston foodies. In recent years, the Original Ninfa's has been lovingly re-imagined by chef Alex Padillo and cocktail wunderkind Bobby Heugel. And while it's wonderful for Mama's family to be back in the neighborhood, they have some serious competition next door.

    "We didn't want it to feel like it was brand new," he explains to CultureMap on a tour of the restaurant. "We've tried to hire as many local artisans as possible, which helps things feel a little older and cared for.

    "The paneling around the base of the bar is totally hand-carved . . . I actually helped make all the chairs in the dining room with our crew."

    A large patio area sits along Navigation, awaiting sets of handmade cypress tables and chairs. Next to the patio, an open L-shaped sun room hugs the main interior dining room. In milder weather, the sun room windows will be opened for an additional patio area. The large room also doubles as a banquet space.

    The restaurant's real magic will happen behind the scenes in a kitchen and work area that Domenic Laurenzo — with longtime friend and builder Andy Picos— designed from years of in-house experience at other El Tiempos. There's a carefully-planned tortilla area, a state-of-the-art dishwashing room and a cooking area created to be as efficient as possible.

    Also cool is a freezer dedicated to that staple of Tex-Mex cuisine, the almighty margarita. The drink mix is made on-site from natural ingredients and then stored in the freezer inside special containers that keep the concoction constantly moving. A separate cooling compressor on the roof keeps the liquid ice cold before it's siphoned to margarita machines at the bar . . . Technological efficiency at its best.

    Domenic Laurenzo says the new design is a composite of previous El Tiempo locations

    El Tiempo Cantina on Navigation, February 2013, peak from door
    Photo by Adrienne Raquel
    Domenic Laurenzo says the new design is a composite of previous El Tiempo locations
    unspecified
    news/restaurants-bars

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    Chris Shepherd gives thanks for underrated wine and talented Houston doctors

    Chris Shepherd
    Jan 2, 2026 | 1:00 pm
    Sandlands wine bottles
    Photo by Chris Shepherd
    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    I know my articles have been a bit scarce these past few months, and I owe you an apology. Life shifted in a big way. In September, my wife Lindsey was diagnosed with breast cancer, and our world narrowed, in the best possible way — to home, health, and the fight in front of us.

    The first and most important thing I’m thankful for is early detection and the city we live in. Having MD Anderson here in Houston is a gift I’ll never take lightly. Lindsey is doing great with treatment. She’s an absolute warrior, and this experience has a way of reframing everything. It forces you to look back, take inventory, and find purpose in both the good and the hard. Today, we’re focusing on the good.

    I love documenting delicious bottles, great bites, and the people we share them with. Every year, I scroll back through my photos to see if my drinking patterns have changed. The answer? A little, but not dramatically. That’s part of what makes wine so fascinating — it’s alive, always evolving, and so are we.

    Chablis and Sangiovese were heavy hitters in 2024 and carried right into 2025. But on the white side, I found myself diving deeper into Aligoté, Burgundy’s other white grape. While Chardonnay is the big dog, Aligoté deserves your attention. Think green apple, citrus, herbal, and floral notes, with bright energy and lift. The real bonus? You can drink Aligoté from top Burgundy producers at a much friendlier price point. It punches well above its weight and belongs on your table.

    I’ve also been blown away by Chardonnay from northern Oregon. Early mistakes with clones led to wines that never quite found balance, but producers committed to getting it right with different clones that did much better in cooler sites, with less oak and shorter barrel time. Barrels should be nurturing vessels, not seasoning agents. Producers like North Valley, Soter, and Alexana are making some of the best Chardonnay I’ve had in years, and I am here for it.

    This past year also brought new adventures, including a month-long stay in Healdsburg, California in July. With a Southern Smoke event and another trip already planned, we packed up the cats, rented a house, and lived somewhere else for a while. It was magical and something I hope we do again.

    While out there, my friend Tegan Passalacqua (Turley Vineyards, Sandlands) invited me to Lodi to taste what’s happening in that region. Lodi has long been known for bulk wine, but the story runs much deeper. Sitting just outside the Sierra Foothills, the region was shaped by massive geological shifts millions of years ago that helped it draw settlers searching for gold in the 1800s. They brought vines with them: Zinfandel, Syrah, and countless lesser-known varieties that are finally getting their moment.

    Zinfandel, genetically linked to Tribidrag (Croatia) and Primitivo (Italy), has been thriving there since the 1850s. After its boom in the early 2000s and an era of ultra-ripe, high-alcohol styles it lost some favor. But tastes change. What’s coming from Lodi’s old vines today is refined, balanced, and beautiful.

    “Think head-trained, dry-farmed, own-rooted vines — some 100 to 150 years old — producing wines that speak clearly of place,” Passalacqua tells me. His Zins sit around 14.5-percent alcohol, elegant and structured, a far cry from the 16-17-percent monsters of decades past.

    One of my newest obsessions is Old Vine Cinsault from the Bechthold Vineyard, planted in 1885. Traditionally a blending grape in southern France, here it shines on its own with bright red fruit and soft tannins — an incredibly crushable wine. If you love lighter Pinot Noir or Gamay, this will make you smile. Look for bottles from Sandlands, Turley, Lorenza, Birichino, and others.

    So here’s the takeaway, like always: break down the walls you’ve been drinking behind. Try something new. Aligoté and Lodi aren’t new but they don’t need to be. They just need people willing to make them cool again. Trust me, they’re delicious and deserving.

    And in the words of the late, great Jerry Garcia:

    Sandlands wine bottles

    Photo by Chris Shepherd

    Chris has been enjoying wines from California's Lodi region.

    Wake up to find out that you are the eyes of the world
    The heart has its beaches, its homeland and thoughts of its own
    Wake now, discover that you are the song that the morning brings
    The heart has its seasons, its evenings and songs of its own

    Happy New Year, team. Never forget to be kind and show love.

    chris shepherdwine
    news/restaurants-bars
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