On the most recent episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Tim Reading joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Leo’s River Oaks. Open since October, Leo’s is the companion fine dining restaurant to the recently-reopened River Oaks Theatre.
The conversation begins with Reading discussing his career as a chef at Italian restaurants Boston. Ready for a change of pace, he moved to Houston and began working for Hugo Ortega at Caracol. He then went on to open Ixím, a Mexican restaurant in Bravery Chef Hall that earned praise from Texas Monthly. Prior to joining Leo’s, he served as chef de cuisine at Chris Shepherd’s GJ Tavern.
All those experiences are reflected in Leo’s menu. While the focus is on steakhouse fare such as lobster bisque, Caesar salad, and different cuts of steak, diners will also find agnolotti, roast chicken, and lobster Thermidor. Sandler asks Reading to elaborate on the decision to have such a wide-ranging menu.
“I think it’s important for me as a chef not to make just what I want to make. I really wanted to make sure anyone could come in and choose what kind of experience,” he says. “If they want to come in for a steak, have the Caesar and a dry-aged [steak]. If you’re a foodie and want to try something different, our octopus is fantastic, the bouillabaisse is really good. I wanted to create a menu that turns into the guests’ menu. They can interpret how they want to have their evening.”
Listen to the full episode to hear the chef discuss why he put lobster Thermidor on the menu. He also talks about his entertaining social media presence.
In another recent episode, Sandler discusses his visit to Medium Rare with co-host Mary Clarkson. Jokingly referred to as the “Raising Canes of steak frites,” the Washington, D.C.-based restaurant only serves a $33, two-course menu of salad and two servings of sirloin steak with french fries. The affordable price point and included second serving make it a welcome alternative to bar steak nights and other casual options, Sandler opines.
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