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Hit the Road

Nostalgia and natural beauty combine in tiny-but-terrific Alpine

CultureMap Create
May 16, 2023 | 4:08 pm

Way out west lies Alpine, a small town with big charm that's surrounded by a gorgeous desert mountain landscape. Equally desirable is the weather: The dry air and elevation keep the days fresh and cool year-round, especially in the mornings and evenings.

Though it may seem far from big cities, Alpine is centrally connected to the most scenic routes in the state, with easy day-trip access to Big Bend National Park, Marfa, Fort Davis, Marathon, McDonald Observatory, and more.

Whether you're passing through or parking your suitcase for a while, here's what to see in Alpine:

Play ball
Located north of downtown, Kokernot Field has been called the “best little ballpark in Texas” by Sports Illustrated. It's the home of the Alpine Cowboys, a nonprofit team that plays in the Pecos League, a professional baseball club which is not affiliated with the Major or Minor Baseball League.

The field dates back to 1947, when longtime rancher Herbert Kokernot Jr. built a baseball stadium to replicate Chicago's Wrigley Field, using materials from his own ranch to add that personal touch. The Cowboys' season typically starts in late May and continues until the end of July (unless they make the playoffs). The players are recruited from all over the United States, with some having come as far as Japan and Puerto Rico.

Lace up and explore
So much beautiful scenery demands to be explored, and Alpine has plenty of parks and trails to satisfy that urge.

Hancock Hill, behind Sul Ross State University, has a small system of hiking trails that feature scenic overlooks of the town and the path to The Desk.

If you haven’t heard the story of The Desk, it goes like this: In 1981, three Sul Ross students carried a desk up Hancock Hill to study. Soon they were spending hours on the hill, enjoying the beautiful surroundings. When one of them left a notebook in a desk drawer and later saw someone had written in it, he replied and soon the tradition of a notebook associated with The Desk was born. There have been dozens of notebooks filled since that are now stored at SRSU's Archives of the Big Bend.

Of course, Big Bend National Park is not to be missed, and neither are Big Bend Ranch State Park and Davis Mountains State Park. Make sure you're appropriately prepared, with proper hiking clothes, plenty of water, and an emergency plan before you head out.

You can also spend a day at the Chihuahuan Desert Nature Center, where in addition to hiking trails you'll find informative exhibits and programs, a greenhouse, and a botanical center.

Museum time
Eager to learn more? Head to Museum of the Big Bend on the Sul Ross State University campus for what director Mary Bones calls "your best introduction to the Big Bend area."

The museum celebrates natural and human history as well as cultures of the Big Bend region. Rotating exhibits include paintings, photography, and more. If you love maps, you’ll be fascinated by the historical pieces in the Yana and Marty Davis Map Collection.

Saddle up
In 1948, the Sul Ross State University rodeo team met with 11 other schools and formed the National Intercollegiate Rodeo Association, or NIRA. Today, the university still hosts the annual Southwest Region competition and has several national championships under its belt.

Rodeo fans can also get their fill at the Big Bend Ranch Rodeo, held this year August 11-12.

More events
Get ready for a summer and fall filled with fun events, starting with the music festivals Viva Big Bend (July 26-30) and Fiesta 1888 (August 5). Art lovers should show up for Trappings of Texas September 14-16 at Museum of the Big Bend and Artwalk on November 17-18, while music fans will want to attend the Big Bend Bluegrass Festival October 6-7.

Round it all out
Wondering where to eat while you're here? There are several options for casual fine dining and plenty of spots that specialize in fresh seafood. Expect a lot of small, family-owned and operated restaurants and food trucks for a truly homemade flavor.

That's also the theme when it comes to shopping, with locally owned boutiques found throughout downtown, including a spot for vintage vinyl records and a fine independent bookstore with an attached coffee shop. While you're browsing, pause to snap pics at the more than 40 murals dotted throughout downtown.

Lay your head
Stay in the historic Holland Hotel, Alpine’s classic railroad hotel originally constructed in 1928. There were originally two railroad hotels: one for the ranchers and one for the workers.

In addition to trusted hotel chains, other hotels with unique vibes include Quarter Circle 7 at Hotel Parker, the Maverick Inn motor court, Alpine Bed & Breakfast, and more.

Learn more about Alpine and begin planning your visit here.

Kokernot baseball field

Photo by David Winslow

Kokernot Field has been called "the best little ballpark in Texas."

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Hill country retreat

Canyon Ranch now booking stays for new resort in the Hill Country

Amber Heckler
Jun 25, 2026 | 10:30 am
Canyon Ranch Austin music room
Courtesy of Canyon Ranch Austin
Find new tunes on vinyl in the music room.

One of the world's most celebrated wellness brands is finally ready to make its Texas Hill Country debut: Canyon Ranch Austin is now accepting reservations for stays beginning October 15, 2026, at its highly anticipated retreat in Spicewood.

First announced in 2022, Canyon Ranch Austin sits on a sprawling 600-plus-acre ranch at 600 Moonlight Bend in Spicewood, an hour from downtown Austin. The destination spa-resort boasts 141 luxuriously appointed guest rooms that overlook 1.5 miles of Lake Travis and the countryside beyond.

The retreat boasts the largest spa in Texas, at 40,000 square feet, encompassing 37 treatment rooms, whirlpools, therapy tubs, steam rooms, lounges, and more.

Canyon Ranch Austin will also debut a women-only wellness collective, which a press release states is "the world's only dedicated practice and program in a resort setting with specialized offerings for women in every chapter of life."

Canyon Ranch will also provide four food and beverage concepts for guests to enjoy. Notably, the resort's signature restaurant Estella will feature a world-class culinary program led by chef Val Cantú, who was born in Texas and whose San Francisco restaurant, Californios, just earned three Michelin Stars.

Estella Estella is the signature restaurant at Canyon Ranch Austin.Courtesy of Canyon Ranch Austin

Canyon Ranch Austin music room

Courtesy of Canyon Ranch Austin

Find new tunes on vinyl in the music room.

Additional features of the property include:

  • A 27,000-square-foot barn that includes a gym, fitness studios, and an outdoor turf field "for fitness, movement, and leading-edge recovery"
  • A 12,000-square-foot medical center
  • Private beach on Lake Travis and space for watersports
  • Five miles of hike-and-bike ranch trails
  • Tennis, pickleball, and padel courts
  • Two outdoor pools
  • A wildflower workshop, garden, and equestrian program

The Austin-area resort is the fifth property in Canyon Ranch's portfolio. The premier wellness brand opened its flagship in Tucson, Arizona, in 1979 and is now headquartered in Fort Worth, home to a Canyon Ranch wellness club and spa.

Since its founding nearly five decades ago, Canyon Ranch has become one of the best-known names in the wellness and spa industry worldwide.

Canyon Ranch CEO Mark Rivers said the new Hill Country resort represents the brand's "bold vision for the future" that shows "what's next in the intersection of travel, hospitality, well-being, care, and culture."

"People today are seeking something fundamentally different from their travels and getaways — life-changing experiences, connection, health, wisdom, and joy," Rivers said in the release. "Time at Canyon Ranch answers the call, with stays inspired to help our guests live younger longer, pursue happiness, reconnect, or relax and feed body, mind, and spirit."

Canyon Ranch Austin will be surrounded by a 134-home residential community, The Ranch Home Collection, that will receive exclusive access to the resort and an on-site concierge wellness program. Homes are currently under construction, per the release.

Stays at Canyon Ranch Austin start at $1,325 per night, which includes a $200 nightly spa and fitness credit that can be used on spa and treatment services. Stays for more than three nights include an additional $300 health and wellness credit. Stays can be booked on canyonranch.com.

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