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    travel journal

    Unplugged: An Internet addict goes off the grid on a low-tech holiday in theMarshall Islands

    Duncan Carson
    Dec 24, 2011 | 7:15 am

    I got off the plane and immediately, my hand went to my pocket. There was no faux hallway, like after the other Continental flights, just a mobile staircase, humid 85 degree heat and a strong breeze. I felt like a visiting dignitary, deplaning the only aircraft in a small military airstrip.

    Before taking in the sights, and even though I knew it wasn't going to work, I took out my cell phone and turned it on. There were no voicemails, no texts, no bars, no signal — just the wrong date and time and the word "Searching."
    ---
    I worship at the cult of the American city. I grew up in the suburbs of Pittsburgh, Houston and Milwaukee among pre-planned grids of beige sidewalks and identical houses, mini-marts and shopping malls. Never in my life have I been more than a half an hour ride from an electronics store, movie theater, or store specifically for orthopedic mattresses. In Austin (where I've lived since July), there is not a conveniently located Panera Bread, a harsh fact I sometimes find legitimately distressing.
    I think of Austin as the quintessential representation of what I mean when I say "modern life." It's rampant with tech firms, pervasive wireless Internet, sophisticated transit, blossoming arts and very connected people. Austin is an up-to-date city if there ever was one, with every amenity you could ask for without the annoying surfeit of people that New Yorkers or Los Angelinos complain about.
    If I were texting my friends or thinking of new updates to hashtag with "#islandtweets," I wouldn't have noticed the shells starting to move in my periphery as hermit crabs grow bold, heard the dull thumps of palm tree fronds falling to the ground in the distance or noticed the small black-beaked birds that run on spindly legs instead of flying when it's hot.
    But I jumped at the chance to visit my sister in the Marshall Islands for the holidays. They're an archipelago of small islands (and island derivatives) in the south Pacific, twice the distance as Hawaii in the same direction.
    After establishing a military base there for strategic reasons in World War II, the United States maintained their presence mainly to test bombs (the Marshall Islands include the Bikini Atoll, still slightly radioactive to this day). The base has since remained as an outpost, along with some civilian meteorological companies that maintain Pacific radar equipment.
    I realized that just over two weeks without the trappings of modern life would be "hard," but obviously, the rewards spoke for themselves. I won't go crazy without Twitter, will I?
    ---
    The journey here required five flights: from Austin to Houston to Los Angeles to Hawaii to Majuro Atoll to Kwajalein Atoll, where my sister lives, covering nearly 7,000 miles and 36 hours. It's an unthinkable journey on the face of it. In truth, the only perniciously annoying parts were the modern conveniences that went too far, like the LCD screens on the back of every seat in economy that insisted on playing a preview of FOX's Alcatraz over and over.
    Because the "island hopper" flight that runs the south Pacific gamut all the way to Guam doesn't fly around the clock, I spent an eight-hour layover in Honolulu International Airport enjoying ubiquitous Wi-fi for the last time, fortifying myself at a 24-hour Starbucks and relaxing with sessions in an automatic massage chair between naps.
    My sister paid for my trip, of course, so my bragging is only about my circumstantial luck, and my shame is that I still can't shake the need to check the Internet.
    When the plane set down in Majuro, the capital of the Marshall Island republic, some people deplaned and some local islanders got on — Continental does inter-island traffic for a modest fee. And for the short hop to Kwajalein from there, I sat next to a Marshallese man whose name I didn't get and whose language I didn't know, but who I loved because he spent the entire hour looking through the SkyMall catalog, pointing things out to me (camoflauge slankets, $100 dollar pet beds, roses preserved by hand-dipping them in gold) and laughing hysterically.
    ---
    The first two days here have been a peaceful respite, a time to unwind. I took a nap after I arrived and as soon as my mind realized my phone was lifeless, my laptop wasn't connected and I had nowhere specific to be and nothing specific to do, I slept as I haven't in a long time.
    If I were texting my friends or thinking of new updates to hashtag with "#islandtweets," I wouldn't have noticed the shells starting to move in my periphery as hermit crabs grow bold, heard the dull thumps of palm tree fronds falling to the ground in the distance or noticed the small black-beaked birds that run on spindly legs instead of flying when it's hot.
    It's beautiful, almost comically so — the sands are white, and the water a cerulean blue that still seems like a postcard after you've waded in it. My sister paid for my trip, of course, so my bragging is only about my circumstantial luck, and my shame is that I still can't shake the need to check the Internet: There is a snack bar with spotty Wi-fi, a combination Burger King/Subway/Baskin Robbins that is a haven of Americana, to which I've returned three times already.
    In the coming days I'll be seeing how my sister (who works for a school attached to the base) and other civilian contractors live in a sort of hybrid life, and then visiting other islands to see even more remote places and the third world existence of many indigenous Marshallese.
    And either it'll subside to a manageable degree or drive me insane, but the entire time, my hand is going to look for my phone. When I arrived and turned it on against all hope, I knew I was being foolish to begin with. But after giving it a second, even though I know that my life will be there when I get back, I couldn't stop myself from holding the phone up to the sky, looking in vain hope for a signal that isn't coming.
    unspecified
    news/travel

    all the way

    Historic Houston hotel glows after top to bottom renovations

    Emily Cotton
    Apr 3, 2026 | 11:00 am
    Sam Houston hotel lobby
    Photo by Laura Dante
    The lobby offers seating options for groups of all sizes.

    As downtown Houston street construction smothers locals ahead of the FIFA World Cup, one Lamar High School alum has quietly restored a Federalist-style landmark hotel to its former glory. When the Sam Houston Hotel opened in 1924, a room could be booked for two dollars—two-fifty with a private bath. The charming update is a wink to that bygone era, yet willfully restrains itself from being tied to a theme.

    The hotel was entered into the National Register of Historic Places in 2004. Twenty years later, Rick Singleton, principal of Scenic Capital Advisors, purchased the historic property and had it listed under the Hilton Hotels Tapestry Collection banner.

    Ensconced in downtown Houston’s Historic District, the Sam Houston Hotel — colloquially known as “The Sam” — sits within one of the city’s most vibrant and walkable neighborhoods. Just steps from Market Square Park, the lush community hub on the site of Houston’s original City Hall serves as the heart of downtown’s urban resurgence where guests can explore the more historical side of downtown on their own or even join one of the popular walking tours.

    Local residents may recognize “The Sam” as the site of two enormous murals that exist as part of the city’s larger public art project. Works by artists “Smug” and Victor Ash, titled “Assiduity” and “Human Rights,” respectively, are difficult to miss, as both extend nearly the entire 10-story height of the building.

    Recognizing a disconnect between the building’s stately Federalist-style exterior and its previously-undefined interior, Singleton set out to reunite the two with a period-appropriate interior aesthetic infused with modern comfort and continuity. The interiors feature rich, tactile fabrics, warm wood floors, and detailed paneling and moldings that replace colder industrial materials. The result is a design that feels historic yet contemporary, timeless yet inviting — a true reflection of Houston’s architectural vernacular.

    “It’s a beautiful, Federalist-style building. Then you walk in, and it’s chic — that was the goal,” Singleton tells CultureMap. The remodel was top-to-bottom, with guest room revitalizations beginning in June of 2024. One-hundred total guest rooms span five layouts, providing something for everyone.

    Since the building had been updated prior to the current acquisition, Hilton didn’t require a full renovation — Singleton did it anyhow: “If we don’t do everything, we are just wasting money. It was just disjointed. We needed to go all the way here, and Hilton was really happy about that. We did double the amount of work that was required here.”

    Guest room designs were all handled in-house by Singleton and his wife Laura, a retired interior designer. The rooms have clean lines and sleek furnishings (all made by local trades), while the accent decor lends itself more to the timeless, beloved boutique hotel aesthetic.

    “We wanted hotel rooms that felt collected, and not overly refined, like a lot of hotel rooms tend to feel,” explains [Rick] Singleton. “We wanted lived-in, collected, and even cluttered a little bit. We wanted them full.”

    Houston favorite Gin Design Group handled the original conceptual design and drawings for the lobby space, with Laura taking over procurement and sourcing from there. “I could have never imagined or come up with the look that she did,” says Singleton of Gin Braverman. “She’s super creative, and we are really happy with the work she did.”

    The lobby is very chic indeed, but not in a nouveau riche sort of way; it’s elegant, yet comfortable. Moody greens, chestnut browns, and golds in textures spanning velvets to tweeds beckon guests to settle in and enjoy libations from the hotel’s new Pearl Bar and Restaurant. Just off the lobby, an enclosed billiards room — that doesn’t require a reservation — draws those looking for a place to wait out rush hour traffic or host a small gathering.

    The Instagram-worthy lobby, billiards suite, and gorgeous events terrace beg for photo-ops — in fact, it’s encouraged. General manager Lauren Beiten was plucked straight from Austin’s very vibey Hotel Van Zandt and loves that visitors of “The Sam” bring that same type of energy and enthusiasm to the hotel. In an unintentional nod to Hilton, there is a whimsical tapestry in the lobby that functions as a perfect backdrop.

    From a full wall of intimate, carved-out nooks, to large sectional seating and low-slung cocktail tables for two, there is a spot to accommodate groups large and small. Having a solo coffee break? Disappear into one — or many — of the interesting coffee table books artfully stacked throughout the space.

    Overall, Singleton is thrilled with how his almost completely in-house project has turned out. While his hands-on approach may have taken longer than traditional turnkey design projects, “The Sam” was clearly worth the effort:

    “It’s easy to spend a lot of money to find stuff, but what’s hard is to find something nice for a reasonable dollar — but it does take time.”

    The Historic Sam Houston Hotel is located at 1117 Prairie Street. Room rates start at $186 per night.

    Sam Houston hotel lobby

    Photo by Laura Dante

    The lobby offers seating options for groups of all sizes.

    hotelsdowntownsam houston hotel
    news/travel
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