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    getaway guide

    Gone to the Old South: Finding the modern in historic Charleston

    Tavaner Sullivan
    Dec 3, 2011 | 6:00 pm
    • A green-shuttered home, part of Charleston's historic Rainbow Row
      Photo by Tavaner Sullivan
    • Hope and Union Coffee Co.
      Photo by Tavaner Sullivan
    • St. Phillips Church in downtown Charleston
      Photo by Tavaner Sullivan
    • Sugar Bake Shop
      Photo by Tavaner Sullivan
    • A historic home in Charleston
      Photo by Tavaner Sullivan

    Gone With the Wind may be to blame, but for me, nothing reminds me of the Old South like Charleston, South Carolina — a city that, until recently, had eluded me. A recent trip taught me how much the city has to offer. With its historic downtown, houses and buildings built in the 1700s, cobblestone streets, palm trees, coastline, delicious food and Southern hospitality, it was hard to leave.

    Here are some of my favorite finds:

    Husk: Located on Charleston’s historic downtown Queen Street in a beautifully renovated old home, Husk offers ingredient-driven cuisine inspired by the bounty available in local areas. According to our waiter, beef from Texas is the farthest sourced ingredient. Named Bon Appetit’s Best New Restaurant of 2011, Husk is the masterpiece of James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock. The menu changes daily based on what is fresh and available. A floor-to-ceiling chalkboard in the entry hall lists all local ingredients and where each is from. (76 Queen Street)

    The Bar at Husk: Next door to Husk in a freestanding building, The Bar at Husk is the perfect place to wait for a table at the restaurant or to meet for a cozy drink. The wine list is divided by terroir and soil type—limestone, primary rock, clay and volcanic—and the beer list features artisanal and local breweries, such as the Rye Knot Brown Ale from Coast Brewery in North Charleston. The bar’s modern cocktails build on traditional Southern spirits, and of course it has an extensive selection of Bourbon. The two-story building has century-old exposed brick, a first-floor bar and a mix of tables and comfortable couches on the second floor. (76 Queen Street)

    Hope and Union Coffee Co.: Located in Charleston’s Elliotborough neighborhood in what was once a residence, this coffee shop serves coffee and espresso drinks made with Chicago-based Intelligentsia beans. With its light and airy peaceful interior, Hope and Union is a great place to study or get some work done. If in need of a treat to go with coffee, I recommend the banana Nutella turnover. (199 St. Phillip Street)

    Home to some of the best surfing waves on the East Coast, Folly Beach got its name from some of the original settlers venturing to the New Wor ld.

    Sugar Bakeshop: Owned by New York City transplants Bill Bowick and David Bouffard, Sugar is perfect for an afternoon sweet fix with delectable treats like pumpkin ginger cupcakes and ginger molasses, butterscotch and oatmeal raisin cookies. (59 1/2 Cannon Street)

    Caviar & Bananas Gourmet Market & Cafe: This low-country twist on a New York City style gourmet market offers prepared foods, coffee, some wine and beer, snacks, sweet treats and goodies. For breakfast, the blueberry muffin is impressive, and the Charleston-made Sweeteeth Sea is for Caramel chocolate bar (65 percent dark chocolate filled with rich caramel and finished off with a sprinkling of sea salt) is a must. (Two locations: 51 George Street and 188 Meeting Street)

    Coast Brewery: In addition to producing delicious craft brews, this small, family-owned brewery, located in North Charleston, focuses on organic, local and energy efficient whenever possible. A biodiesel-fire kettle is used during the beer-making process and each beer has a list of ingredients highlighting which are organic. Make sure to try the Rye Knot (chocolate rye) Brown Ale. No reservations needed and cash only. (1250 2nd Street N., North Charleston)

    Charleston Farmers’ Market: On Saturdays, Marion Square in downtown Charleston is home to the Charleston Farmers’ Market, which offers the freshest local produce and bounty, shrimp, plants, herbs and cut flowers. There is live entertainment for visitors while they peruse vendor tents, nibble on breakfast and lunch offerings and explore arts and crafts from local artisans. (Between King and Meeting Streets at the edge of Calhoun Street)

    Blue Turtle Yoga: This yoga studio, which is part of the Eco Fitness Gym next door, offers classes from 60 to 90 minutes long and ranging in type from Flow, Vinyasa, Ashtanga, Core Power and Hot Yoga and Jivamukti. Classes are $10. 69B Wentworth Street

    Folly Beach: Although home to some of the best surfing waves on the East Coast, Folly Beach got its name from settlers who, coming to the New World on ships from Europe, had not seen land or trees in months until they set eyes on this beach. In Old World English folly means clump of trees or thicket. If surfing isn’t your thing, Folly Beach is also great for fishing, picnicking swimming and biking.

    Rainbow Row: Rainbow Row is one of the most famous architectural landmarks in Charleston. The 18th-century commercial buildings that line East Bay Street in downtown were originally built to service Charleston’s bustling wharfs and docks. The colorful buildings, which are now private residences, were the focus on a restoration starting in the 1930s. The name Rainbow Row comes from the street’s 1930s Colonial Caribbean color scheme. (83-107 East Bay Street)

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    Fashion on display

    Rare Halston fashion exhibition now on display in West Texas city

    Brandon Watson
    Feb 17, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Halston: Inventing American Fashion exhibit Ellen Noël Art Museum
    Photo courtesy of Ellen Noël Art Museum
    An colorful eveningwear grouping takes advantage of Ellen Noël Art Museum's curved walls.

    A rare exhibition honoring fashion pioneer Halston has popped up in an unexpected place: West Texas. Houston fashionistas who are fans of the designer can hop a flight (or drive eight hours) to Odessa’s newly revamped Ellen Noël Art Museum to view "Halston: Inventing American Fashion."

    Halston’s minimalistic fashions are rarely the subjects of retrospectives, although the designer’s dramatic life story recently had a pop-cultural resurgence through a 2021 Ryan Murphy miniseries. "Halston: Inventing American Fashion" assesses the talent that made him a household name.

    Known now for outfitting 1970s icons like Liza Minelli and Bianca Jagger, Halston changed the international reputation of American sportswear as part of the famous 1973 “Battle of Versailles” fashion show, holding his own against Paris’ most lauded couturiers. His uniquely louche style still influences contemporary brands like Marc Jacobs, Zac Posen, and Tom Ford, who was briefly the creative director for a revised Halston label.

    The mannequins in the Odessa display are outfitted with 75 ensembles from flowing Ultrasuede daywear to more dramatic draped gowns. The pieces “illustrate how Halston revolutionized fashion by prioritizing comfort, confidence, and modern femininity,” according to a release.

    Although Odessa may seem an odd choice for the show, Halston had deep Texas connections. After he moved on from hat making, Amarillo millionaire Estelle Marsh was his sole backer willing to fund his first Madison Avenue boutique.

     Ellen No\u00ebl Art Museum, Odessa, new facade. The new facade at Ellen Noël Art MuseumPhoto courtesy of Ellen Noël Art Museum

    Halston: Inventing American Fashion exhibit Ellen No\u00ebl Art Museum

    Photo courtesy of Ellen Noël Art Museum

    An colorful eveningwear grouping takes advantage of Ellen Noël Art Museum's curved walls.

    And the recently completed renovation of Odessa's Ellen Noël Art Museum has some of the designer’s signature sleek. Designed by architect R.J. Lopez, the renovation includes new galleries and improved circulation, but the centerpiece is a striking transparent façade, replacing the original brick of the 1985 building.

    “The renovation project has been over 10 years in the making and in the construction phase for the past two years,” says the museum’s buildings manager, Steve Patton, via a release. “The completion of the project has resulted in an incredible facility that is a shining star in West Texas, offering programs and exhibits that will be a destination point for people all over the world!”

    "Halston: Inventing American Fashion" will run through March 22. Admission to the Ellen Noël Art Museum is free.

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