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    Travelin' Man

    Jamaica beyond Montego Bay and Negril: Five easy escapes from the beach, it's ajungle out there

    Stephan Lorenz
    Nov 5, 2011 | 10:47 am
    • The black sands of Farquhar's Beach are simply "the beach" to locals.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Milk River is home to rich mineral baths, said to cure a wide variety ofailments.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Find your peace and quiet at the swampy Royal Palm Preserve.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Jah love is like a burning fire.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Jamaican me crazy with all that beautiful landscape, mon.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Fishing boats rest amid a rugged, picturesque Jamaican backdrop.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Luck be a manatee in Alligator Hole.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Although it may be hard to believe, there's more to Jamaica than Montego Bay and Negril.

    Are you ready to escape the beach?

    Let's go.

    Swamp it up at the Royal Palm Preserve

    No doubt, Jamaica’s beaches and waters are beautiful. But everyone needs a break from the sun-stoking melanin production.

    The Royal Palm Preserve is the perfect place to seek some shade and quiet — and just a short taxi ride from Negril Beach. The sanctuary harbors the last extensive stands of royal palms, a tree unique to Jamaica, many reaching over 100 feet.

    It’s a great place to catch a glimpse of the Great Morass, an area of swampland, without getting your feet wet. A wooden walkway traverses wetlands and winds through palm groves for half a mile.

    As a note of caution, before visiting, check the current status of the preserve, as there is talk of closing it to the public — which would be an unfortunate loss.

    Enjoy a black sand lunch at Farquhar’s Beach and digest it in a mineral dip in Milk River

    A day’s travel east of Montego Bay and Negril lies Farquhar’s Beach, or just “the beach” as it is locally known — a laid back slice of dark sand. The dirt road ends among a cluster of shacks that serve up some of the freshest seafood in Jamaica. Boats arrive throughout the day, unloading catches of fish, lobster, and shrimp.

    After a good meal, continue digestion in one of the mineral baths at Milk River, near May Pen. Of course, wait one hour before plunging into the hot waters.

    Supposedly containing some of the highest radioactivity and mineral content of any bath in the world, the Milk River mineral springs are said to cure a wide range of ailments. Sunburns might be one of them.

    I settled in for the night in the spa-turned-hotel right on the grounds of the springs. Among the hospital décor and simple rooms, I felt transported to a 19th century sanatorium. The mineral baths consisted of nine tiled pools in a windowless basement. The restaurant’s excellent food served up a day’s worth of relaxation in a place where things haven’t changed much in the past 100 years.

    Paddle bathtubs and go overboard with the manatees in Alligator Hole

    Another attraction within the Milk River area is Alligator Hole. For a few dollars, we were able to rent a small aluminum hull of questionable seaworthiness, received two pieces of wood shaped roughly like primordial paddles, and a plastic jug for bailing.

    The boat moved as efficiently as paddling an upside-down brass tub. Fortunately, we soon realized the water lay still among dense reeds and the pond was of finite size.

    Several years ago, three manatees had been captured by local fishermen and brought to the clear waters of Alligator Hole. A thick net strung across the only exit ensures the future protection of these rare animals and continued tourist dollars.

    The easiest way to see these gentle behemoths is during feeding time in the evening, but a few bubbles betrayed their presence to us in the middle of the afternoon.

    The creatures were shy and disappeared after I dove in. I hoped the crocodilians were taking a break.

    We paddled, bailed water and paddled some more, exploring the tangled mangrove forest before returning the vessel to port.

    Perfect your balancing act on bat guano in the Cockpit Country caves

    What many visitors to Jamaica don’t realize is that just inland from Montego Bay awaits an area of wild and untouched jungle. It’s a place where the largest butterfly in the Western Hemisphere wings through the forest during the day, and innumerable bats emerge from hundreds of caves at night.

    The Cockpit Country of western Jamaica derived its name from hundreds of caves and sinkholes found in its Karst Mountains. Early explorers found temperatures and humidity in these caverns to be akin to the climate of cockfighting rings.

    Always going below the surface for all of my travel stories, I had just slipped on wet bat guano several feet thick and my torch went out. In pitch black, I fumbled with my flashlight as hundreds of thousands of bats chattered and whirred above. I was soaked with perspiration and struggled to breathe in the hot, humid air.

    After recovering, I continued deeper into the cave. I could make out some rough limestone columns, stalagmites, and stalactites. Tiny gnats buzzed by my face — first hundreds, than thousands. When I couldn’t help but breathe insects, I beat a quick retreat, slipping on the guano one more time on the way out.

    Covered in sweat, insects, and excrement, I felt like I had gained a deeper understanding of the place and its name. I rinsed in one of the rivers, flowing clean and cold out of the hills that rise like steep domes from the forest.

    Refreshed, I walked to a roadside store. Dango, a true-to-the-bone Rastafarian, was the proprietor-sometimes-guide, as well as a local legend. Since he didn’t have anything to sell other than tepid bottles of Coke, I bought one. He offered to guide me to a nearby cave to see some bats. I appreciated the offer, but told him I had just seen a few.

    Relive classic Hollywood moments in the Blue Lagoon

    Yes, the Blue Lagoon of movie fame lies near Port Antonio on the east coast of Jamaica. Crystal clear waters continue to pour from underground springs into a small bay open to the warm Caribbean on one side.

    During the week, it’s possible to have the whole lagoon to yourself, and the perfect waters invite you to swim and snorkel.

    The entire east coast of the island sees much lower numbers of tourists. Dramatic cliffs give way to empty beaches and small towns offer looks at day-to-day Jamaican life.

    There are many other interesting places and beautiful corners remaining to be explored. People are friendly and helpful throughout, the food delicious, and there is much more to Jamaica than reggae, Montego Bay, and Negril.

    Editor's note: This is the third story in a three-part series on Stephan Lorenz's Jamaica travels. Don't miss the first — City to solitude, beaches to Blue Mountains: Find coffee, clouds and your cool in Jamaica — or the second — What map? Sputter and fumble your way to deserted beaches and rugged Jamaica in the Hellshire Hills — installations.

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    On the road

    Vonlane ramps up luxury bus service from Houston to key Texas city

    Stephanie Allmon Merry
    Feb 4, 2026 | 1:30 pm
    Vonlane 2026
    Photo courtesy of Vonlane
    Vonlane has added new routes in major cities around Texas.

    Luxury bus operator Vonlane is adding new routes across Texas for 2026, including bringing back crack-of-dawn rides between Houston and San Antonio.

    According to a release, effective February 16, Vonlane will run new early-morning and evening departures in four Texas cities on high-demand travel days. Six additional weekly departures have been added in each city as follows:

    NEW Fort Worth to and from Austin:

    • 7 am and 7 pm Monday, Thursday, and Friday

    NEW Houston Galleria to and from San Antonio:

    • 6 am and 6 pm Monday, Thursday, and Friday

    As of February 16, the schedule to and from these Texas cities will be as follows:

    San Antonio to Houston Galleria:

    • 6 am, 10 am, 2 pm, 6 pm Monday, Thursday, and Friday
    • 10 am and 2 pm Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday
    • 1 pm Saturday

    Houston Galleria to San Antonio:

    • 6 am, 10 am, 2 pm, 6 pm Monday, Thursday, and Friday
    • 10 am and 2 pm Tuesday, Wednesday, and Sunday
    • 9 am Saturday

    Vonlane also offers routes from Houston to Dallas, Fort Worth, and Austin.

    The company says the expanded schedules aim to help facilitate day trips, allowing regional business travelers to arrive in time for morning meetings and return home the same evening.

    “Business travelers are telling us they want schedules that actually work,” said Alex Danza, founder and CEO of Vonlane, in a statement. “These new departures make it possible to take a morning meeting without a 4 am alarm, stay productive on the road, and still be home by dinner. That flexibility is exactly what Vonlane was built to deliver.”

    Dallas-based Vonlane launched its high-end bus service in 2014 to cater to business travelers. Each bus, which holds fewer than two dozen passengers, features amenities like Wi-Fi, satellite TV and radio, snack and drink service, sleep masks, and leather seats. Their fares are flat-rate, one-way or round-trip, with no taxes, baggage fees, or change fees.

    Vonlane now offers more than 500 departures weekly across nine cities, in Texas and beyond. Routes run in Austin, Dallas, Fort Worth, Houston, and San Antonio, Texas; between Atlanta, Georgia, and Nashville, Tennessee; and between Nashville and Memphis, and Nashville and Knoxville.

    In Houston, buses to Dallas, Fort Worth, and Austin depart from the Hyatt Regency Downtown at 1200 Louisiana St. Buses to San Antonio depart from the Hyatt Regency Galleria at 2626 Sage Rd.

    Reservations can be booked online, and may be canceled and fully refunded up to 24 hours before departure.

    Vonlane also just launched an app to make booking and managing trips easier for passengers; it is available for Apple and Android devices.

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