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    Travelin' Man

    Jamaica beyond Montego Bay and Negril: Five easy escapes from the beach, it's ajungle out there

    Stephan Lorenz
    Nov 5, 2011 | 10:47 am
    • The black sands of Farquhar's Beach are simply "the beach" to locals.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Milk River is home to rich mineral baths, said to cure a wide variety ofailments.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Find your peace and quiet at the swampy Royal Palm Preserve.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Jah love is like a burning fire.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Jamaican me crazy with all that beautiful landscape, mon.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Fishing boats rest amid a rugged, picturesque Jamaican backdrop.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Luck be a manatee in Alligator Hole.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Although it may be hard to believe, there's more to Jamaica than Montego Bay and Negril.

    Are you ready to escape the beach?

    Let's go.

    Swamp it up at the Royal Palm Preserve

    No doubt, Jamaica’s beaches and waters are beautiful. But everyone needs a break from the sun-stoking melanin production.

    The Royal Palm Preserve is the perfect place to seek some shade and quiet — and just a short taxi ride from Negril Beach. The sanctuary harbors the last extensive stands of royal palms, a tree unique to Jamaica, many reaching over 100 feet.

    It’s a great place to catch a glimpse of the Great Morass, an area of swampland, without getting your feet wet. A wooden walkway traverses wetlands and winds through palm groves for half a mile.

    As a note of caution, before visiting, check the current status of the preserve, as there is talk of closing it to the public — which would be an unfortunate loss.

    Enjoy a black sand lunch at Farquhar’s Beach and digest it in a mineral dip in Milk River

    A day’s travel east of Montego Bay and Negril lies Farquhar’s Beach, or just “the beach” as it is locally known — a laid back slice of dark sand. The dirt road ends among a cluster of shacks that serve up some of the freshest seafood in Jamaica. Boats arrive throughout the day, unloading catches of fish, lobster, and shrimp.

    After a good meal, continue digestion in one of the mineral baths at Milk River, near May Pen. Of course, wait one hour before plunging into the hot waters.

    Supposedly containing some of the highest radioactivity and mineral content of any bath in the world, the Milk River mineral springs are said to cure a wide range of ailments. Sunburns might be one of them.

    I settled in for the night in the spa-turned-hotel right on the grounds of the springs. Among the hospital décor and simple rooms, I felt transported to a 19th century sanatorium. The mineral baths consisted of nine tiled pools in a windowless basement. The restaurant’s excellent food served up a day’s worth of relaxation in a place where things haven’t changed much in the past 100 years.

    Paddle bathtubs and go overboard with the manatees in Alligator Hole

    Another attraction within the Milk River area is Alligator Hole. For a few dollars, we were able to rent a small aluminum hull of questionable seaworthiness, received two pieces of wood shaped roughly like primordial paddles, and a plastic jug for bailing.

    The boat moved as efficiently as paddling an upside-down brass tub. Fortunately, we soon realized the water lay still among dense reeds and the pond was of finite size.

    Several years ago, three manatees had been captured by local fishermen and brought to the clear waters of Alligator Hole. A thick net strung across the only exit ensures the future protection of these rare animals and continued tourist dollars.

    The easiest way to see these gentle behemoths is during feeding time in the evening, but a few bubbles betrayed their presence to us in the middle of the afternoon.

    The creatures were shy and disappeared after I dove in. I hoped the crocodilians were taking a break.

    We paddled, bailed water and paddled some more, exploring the tangled mangrove forest before returning the vessel to port.

    Perfect your balancing act on bat guano in the Cockpit Country caves

    What many visitors to Jamaica don’t realize is that just inland from Montego Bay awaits an area of wild and untouched jungle. It’s a place where the largest butterfly in the Western Hemisphere wings through the forest during the day, and innumerable bats emerge from hundreds of caves at night.

    The Cockpit Country of western Jamaica derived its name from hundreds of caves and sinkholes found in its Karst Mountains. Early explorers found temperatures and humidity in these caverns to be akin to the climate of cockfighting rings.

    Always going below the surface for all of my travel stories, I had just slipped on wet bat guano several feet thick and my torch went out. In pitch black, I fumbled with my flashlight as hundreds of thousands of bats chattered and whirred above. I was soaked with perspiration and struggled to breathe in the hot, humid air.

    After recovering, I continued deeper into the cave. I could make out some rough limestone columns, stalagmites, and stalactites. Tiny gnats buzzed by my face — first hundreds, than thousands. When I couldn’t help but breathe insects, I beat a quick retreat, slipping on the guano one more time on the way out.

    Covered in sweat, insects, and excrement, I felt like I had gained a deeper understanding of the place and its name. I rinsed in one of the rivers, flowing clean and cold out of the hills that rise like steep domes from the forest.

    Refreshed, I walked to a roadside store. Dango, a true-to-the-bone Rastafarian, was the proprietor-sometimes-guide, as well as a local legend. Since he didn’t have anything to sell other than tepid bottles of Coke, I bought one. He offered to guide me to a nearby cave to see some bats. I appreciated the offer, but told him I had just seen a few.

    Relive classic Hollywood moments in the Blue Lagoon

    Yes, the Blue Lagoon of movie fame lies near Port Antonio on the east coast of Jamaica. Crystal clear waters continue to pour from underground springs into a small bay open to the warm Caribbean on one side.

    During the week, it’s possible to have the whole lagoon to yourself, and the perfect waters invite you to swim and snorkel.

    The entire east coast of the island sees much lower numbers of tourists. Dramatic cliffs give way to empty beaches and small towns offer looks at day-to-day Jamaican life.

    There are many other interesting places and beautiful corners remaining to be explored. People are friendly and helpful throughout, the food delicious, and there is much more to Jamaica than reggae, Montego Bay, and Negril.

    Editor's note: This is the third story in a three-part series on Stephan Lorenz's Jamaica travels. Don't miss the first — City to solitude, beaches to Blue Mountains: Find coffee, clouds and your cool in Jamaica — or the second — What map? Sputter and fumble your way to deserted beaches and rugged Jamaica in the Hellshire Hills — installations.

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    1. tree-mendously stylish

    New, art-filled boutique hotel debuts in Houston with bold vintage flair

    Emily Cotton
    Dec 5, 2025 | 1:59 pm
    Hotel Daphne lobby
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

    Taking one step beyond the threshold of the new Hotel Daphne in the Heights is — in a word — transformative. Layered with handcrafted details, various textiles, warm-natured tones, and vintage and custom pieces that embrace contemporary whimsy, Houston’s newest property from Austin-based company Bunkhouse Hotels has truly outdone itself.

    The five story, 49-room property features an all-day restaurant called Hypsi, along with a picturesque walled-courtyard, jewel-box library, lobby retail shop, and a perfectly-curated art collection that could easily rival the best galleries. Those looking to make a splash will be delighted to know that a pool, dedicated outdoor bar, and 10 poolside bungalow suites are currently in the works to open in the spring of 2027. Hotel Daphne is Bunkhouse’s second Houston property, joining the Hotel Saint Augustine that opened in Montrose in 2024 and earned a prestigious Michelin Key in October.

    Setting itself apart from other new build properties, Hotel Daphne has taken painstakingly-precise care not to have disturbed the numerous mature Live Oak trees surrounding the building, giving the hotel a “we’ve always been here” quality that locals can appreciate. Those very trees inspired the hotel’s name, after Daphne of Greek mythology, who famously changed herself into a laurel tree and represents allure and restraint.

    “With Hotel Daphne, we set out to create a project that bridges Houston Heights’ eclectic energy with its residential roots to seamlessly blend into the surrounding landscape,” Timothy Blanchard, founder, principal architect, Blanchard A+D tells CultureMap. “Drawing on the area’s commercial and historic cues, we shaped the building around large heritage oak trees to create a place that feels welcoming, restrained, and quietly refined.”

    The hotel’s exterior features stepped parapets, dark steel sash windows, and soft gray shutters that bridge the scale between neighboring bungalows and historic industrial structures. Local landscape firm McDugald Steele rounds out the exteriors team with lush selections befitting the building and playing nicely with native surroundings, while giving nods to the Heights’ architectural charm and its origins as a utopian society founded in the 1890’s.

    Bunkhouse designed the interiors in-house, with 80 percent of the furniture and decor designed and selected during the initial design phase, leaving the remaining 20 percent to be selected post buildout. Select pieces like the show-stopping, circular modular sofa in the lobby, were sourced during the recent Round Top Fall Antiques Show. Situated beneath a vintage Murano chandelier, the sofa’s striped linen has been swapped for a more commercial-friendly Gem Velvet from Brentano, while the exposed sides have been dressed in a playfully-patterned Bargello from Nobilis. Suffice it to say: she’s Instagram-ready.

    “We always like to keep a healthy mix of vintage. When everything is custom or off the shelf, the end result can feel planned, prescriptive, and a little too perfect. Leaving room for the unplanned is where a dose of magic happens,” explains Tenaya Hills, head of design for Bunkhouse Hotels and JdV by Hyatt. “If you use up every inch of space with things you decided months before, you lose the creativity that hits you while you’re out shopping for vintage, or even when you’re sitting around with your team in the finished space thinking, ‘Okay, what does this space actually need?’ And also — it’s just fun.”

    A right turn off of the lobby leads to Hotel Daphne’s library. Absolutely drenched in a gorgeous, high-gloss blue, the impressive cabinets and bookcases house everything from books to ceramics and found objects — feel free to grab a book off the shelf and get cozy. Grounded by a handwoven rug by Shame Studios, the library offers three custom tables for gaming, providing an onyx chess set, marble checkers, and one table left bare for board games or other amusements. The library’s French doors can be closed off for private events, meetings, and dinners as well.

    Rounding out the first floor, Italian-style restaurant Hypsi, led by two-time James Beard Award nominee Terrence Gallivan, nods to the area’s Prohibition-era supper club history. Opulent and playful details include a blueberry lava stone bar outfitted with leather Cassina chairs, an indoor fireplace framed by an antique mantel, banquettes piled with psychedelic pillows, vintage Gerli chairs reupholstered in velvet, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti.

    Hypsi’s adjoining vine-wrapped courtyard and Hotel Daphne patio offer outdoor dining. Playful Gubi patio furniture, paired with vintage, mosaic-tiled tables hand-painted to depict nymphs and the like, is available for more informal lounging. Remember those books in the library? Pair one with a cocktail or coffee while taking in an afternoon breeze.

    The remaining four floors are all guest rooms. Hotel Daphne offers a robust selection of double-queen rooms and single-king rooms, with both configurations available in ADA options. Select rooms, like the Terrace King Rooms, offer outdoor balconies. The Terrace King Premiere is 890 square feet, featuring a king bed, lounge area, workspace, and a terrace with dining and lounge furniture — perfect for entertaining a small group outdoors.

    Larger groups may opt for one of the two suites. The Balcony Suite is 850 square feet, featuring a king bed, a bistro table with seating, a parlor room with lounge area, dining table for six, wet bar, and a Juliet balcony. The Penthouse Suite is 1,150 square feet, featuring two rooms with king beds, plus a lounge area, a parlor room, dining table for eight, lounge area, wet bar, and two bathrooms. The Penthouse Suite is a three-key suite and each space can be booked individually.

    Guest rooms feature custom upholstered beds with floral velvet headboards inspired by Trebah Gardens. In fact, the fabric itself is Trebah Velvet by Osborne & Little.

    “We love that fabric and it brought exactly the mood we were looking for,” explains Hills. “Against the room’s more classic backdrop, we wanted an element that felt a little trippy and not-so-perfect, something that captured the spirit of the hotel. The pattern has this dreamy, slightly surreal quality that lets a subtle, ethereal, almost acid trip note come through. The hotel takes inspiration from the Heights’ beginnings as a planned utopian community, but we’ve layered in its history of 1930s clandestine drinking culture and the patina of time to a home that would have occurred on that original idealism. Trebah felt like the perfect way to thread those stories together, refined on the surface, with a little fray underneath.”

    The beds are all dressed in luxe Sferra linens (bath towels are also Sferra), and rooms are additionally outfitted with mohair seating, Arts & Crafts-style credenzas, plus natural stone tables and vintage finds. Adjoining bathrooms are wrapped in rich green Fireclay tiles that play magnificently with onyx vanities. Hotel Daphne’s signature amenities are by Dr. Vranjes of Florence, Italy, and are available for purchase in the lobby’s gift shop, including its signature scent, Dr. Vranjes’ Onyx Rose Tobacco.

    Also available in the gift shop are Hotel Daphne’s signature guest room robes. Collecting robes from Bunkhouse properties has become somewhat of a thing, to say the least.

    “Bunkhouse has a tradition of creating a custom robe for every property, says Hills. “Daphne’s robe was inspired by vintage men’s pajamas, designed to bring a masculine touch to balance the softer, feminine details throughout the rooms. Its striped pattern and colorway were directly drawn from the Trebah Velvet fabric used on the headboards. This connection makes the robe feel distinct but fully integrated with the overall guest room palette.”

    If the carpeting looks familiar, it’s not a trick of the mind. The spaces not clad in brass-inlaid, herringbone wood floors are swathed in patterned carpeting inspired by William Morris’ iconic “Strawberry Thief” pattern, but adjusted and created using AI — that’s certainly one way to mix old with new.

    In an interesting twist to Bunkhouse tradition, a substantial portion of the art on display is held in a private collection. Hotel owner Ben Ackerley and his father will rotate select pieces from the Ackerley Family Collection for guests of the hotel to enjoy. Bunkhouse art director Dina Pugh sourced works by Austin-based painter Alexandra Valenti that are on display in the guest rooms and hallways.

    An additional 160 works of art in the property belong to the Ackerley Family Collection. In January of this year, Hesse McGraw, formerly executive director of Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, came on as Hotel Daphne’s art director. Find works by Vernon Fisher and Kent Dorn on display in the hotel’s lobby, plus artists Kelli Vance and Dorothy Hood on view in the library. The giant Matt Kleberg overlooking the dining room at Hypsi is on loan from Houston’s Hiram Butler Gallery until January, when a commissioned work by the same artist will be completed. The untitled work will be difficult to miss with its 15’ x 8’ stature.

    Ackerley believes that sharing his family’s collection with the city will benefit living, Texas-based artists in a myriad of ways, especially by putting them in front of other potential collectors.

    “99-percent of collectors have no relation to the artists. They look at it as an investment and have no emotional connection to the work or the person behind it,” says Ackerley. “Whereas, we collect people we hang out with. We support living, contemporary Texas artists, and 80-percent of what you’ll see in this hotel is that — there is plenty of cool art.”

    Bunkhouse was purchased by Hyatt Hotels in October 2024, but there are no signs of Hyatt branding in the hotel. The plus is that rooms can be booked with points through Hyatt’s rewards program. Rooms at Hotel Daphne begin at $359 per night.

    Hotel Daphne lobby

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

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