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    Travelin' Man

    Jamaica beyond Montego Bay and Negril: Five easy escapes from the beach, it's ajungle out there

    Stephan Lorenz
    Nov 5, 2011 | 10:47 am
    • The black sands of Farquhar's Beach are simply "the beach" to locals.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Milk River is home to rich mineral baths, said to cure a wide variety ofailments.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Find your peace and quiet at the swampy Royal Palm Preserve.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Jah love is like a burning fire.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Jamaican me crazy with all that beautiful landscape, mon.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Fishing boats rest amid a rugged, picturesque Jamaican backdrop.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Luck be a manatee in Alligator Hole.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Although it may be hard to believe, there's more to Jamaica than Montego Bay and Negril.

    Are you ready to escape the beach?

    Let's go.

    Swamp it up at the Royal Palm Preserve

    No doubt, Jamaica’s beaches and waters are beautiful. But everyone needs a break from the sun-stoking melanin production.

    The Royal Palm Preserve is the perfect place to seek some shade and quiet — and just a short taxi ride from Negril Beach. The sanctuary harbors the last extensive stands of royal palms, a tree unique to Jamaica, many reaching over 100 feet.

    It’s a great place to catch a glimpse of the Great Morass, an area of swampland, without getting your feet wet. A wooden walkway traverses wetlands and winds through palm groves for half a mile.

    As a note of caution, before visiting, check the current status of the preserve, as there is talk of closing it to the public — which would be an unfortunate loss.

    Enjoy a black sand lunch at Farquhar’s Beach and digest it in a mineral dip in Milk River

    A day’s travel east of Montego Bay and Negril lies Farquhar’s Beach, or just “the beach” as it is locally known — a laid back slice of dark sand. The dirt road ends among a cluster of shacks that serve up some of the freshest seafood in Jamaica. Boats arrive throughout the day, unloading catches of fish, lobster, and shrimp.

    After a good meal, continue digestion in one of the mineral baths at Milk River, near May Pen. Of course, wait one hour before plunging into the hot waters.

    Supposedly containing some of the highest radioactivity and mineral content of any bath in the world, the Milk River mineral springs are said to cure a wide range of ailments. Sunburns might be one of them.

    I settled in for the night in the spa-turned-hotel right on the grounds of the springs. Among the hospital décor and simple rooms, I felt transported to a 19th century sanatorium. The mineral baths consisted of nine tiled pools in a windowless basement. The restaurant’s excellent food served up a day’s worth of relaxation in a place where things haven’t changed much in the past 100 years.

    Paddle bathtubs and go overboard with the manatees in Alligator Hole

    Another attraction within the Milk River area is Alligator Hole. For a few dollars, we were able to rent a small aluminum hull of questionable seaworthiness, received two pieces of wood shaped roughly like primordial paddles, and a plastic jug for bailing.

    The boat moved as efficiently as paddling an upside-down brass tub. Fortunately, we soon realized the water lay still among dense reeds and the pond was of finite size.

    Several years ago, three manatees had been captured by local fishermen and brought to the clear waters of Alligator Hole. A thick net strung across the only exit ensures the future protection of these rare animals and continued tourist dollars.

    The easiest way to see these gentle behemoths is during feeding time in the evening, but a few bubbles betrayed their presence to us in the middle of the afternoon.

    The creatures were shy and disappeared after I dove in. I hoped the crocodilians were taking a break.

    We paddled, bailed water and paddled some more, exploring the tangled mangrove forest before returning the vessel to port.

    Perfect your balancing act on bat guano in the Cockpit Country caves

    What many visitors to Jamaica don’t realize is that just inland from Montego Bay awaits an area of wild and untouched jungle. It’s a place where the largest butterfly in the Western Hemisphere wings through the forest during the day, and innumerable bats emerge from hundreds of caves at night.

    The Cockpit Country of western Jamaica derived its name from hundreds of caves and sinkholes found in its Karst Mountains. Early explorers found temperatures and humidity in these caverns to be akin to the climate of cockfighting rings.

    Always going below the surface for all of my travel stories, I had just slipped on wet bat guano several feet thick and my torch went out. In pitch black, I fumbled with my flashlight as hundreds of thousands of bats chattered and whirred above. I was soaked with perspiration and struggled to breathe in the hot, humid air.

    After recovering, I continued deeper into the cave. I could make out some rough limestone columns, stalagmites, and stalactites. Tiny gnats buzzed by my face — first hundreds, than thousands. When I couldn’t help but breathe insects, I beat a quick retreat, slipping on the guano one more time on the way out.

    Covered in sweat, insects, and excrement, I felt like I had gained a deeper understanding of the place and its name. I rinsed in one of the rivers, flowing clean and cold out of the hills that rise like steep domes from the forest.

    Refreshed, I walked to a roadside store. Dango, a true-to-the-bone Rastafarian, was the proprietor-sometimes-guide, as well as a local legend. Since he didn’t have anything to sell other than tepid bottles of Coke, I bought one. He offered to guide me to a nearby cave to see some bats. I appreciated the offer, but told him I had just seen a few.

    Relive classic Hollywood moments in the Blue Lagoon

    Yes, the Blue Lagoon of movie fame lies near Port Antonio on the east coast of Jamaica. Crystal clear waters continue to pour from underground springs into a small bay open to the warm Caribbean on one side.

    During the week, it’s possible to have the whole lagoon to yourself, and the perfect waters invite you to swim and snorkel.

    The entire east coast of the island sees much lower numbers of tourists. Dramatic cliffs give way to empty beaches and small towns offer looks at day-to-day Jamaican life.

    There are many other interesting places and beautiful corners remaining to be explored. People are friendly and helpful throughout, the food delicious, and there is much more to Jamaica than reggae, Montego Bay, and Negril.

    Editor's note: This is the third story in a three-part series on Stephan Lorenz's Jamaica travels. Don't miss the first — City to solitude, beaches to Blue Mountains: Find coffee, clouds and your cool in Jamaica — or the second — What map? Sputter and fumble your way to deserted beaches and rugged Jamaica in the Hellshire Hills — installations.

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    State Fair Fare

    State Fair of Texas reveals 4 winners of 2026 Big Tex Choice Awards

    Alex Bentley
    Aug 24, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Berry Me in Matcha cheesecake, winner for Most Creative at the 2026 Big Tex Choice Awards
    Photo courtesy of State Fair of Texas
    Berry Me in Matcha cheesecake, winner for Most Creative at the 2026 Big Tex Choice Awards.

    After a lengthy session on August 18 involving about 30 celebrity judges, the State Fair of Texas has officially unveiled the winners of its 22nd annual Big Tex Choice Awards.

    The judges (including CultureMap's Alex Bentley) tasted and evaluated sample sizes of 15 finalists, five each from the categories of "Savory," "Sweet," and "Sipper." Each of the winners were evaluated on four criteria: Taste, Value for the Price, Presentation, and Creativity.

    Without further delay, here are the big winners, with photos, descriptions, and prices of each creation to help you make your Fair food plan:

    Best Taste - Savory: Burger Chop Tater Tacos by Tom Grace

    Burger Chop Tater Tacos, winner of the Savory category at the 2026 Big Tex Choice AwardsBurger Chop Tater Tacos, winner of the Savory category at the 2026 Big Tex Choice Awards.Photo courtesy of State Fair of Texas

    The tacos feature a shell of cheddar cheese and tater tots that are mashed together and fried. It is then filled with a fresh burger patty chopped and combined with sautéed onions and jalapeños, and topped by buffalo buttermilk ranch coleslaw and garlic parmesan buffalo sauce.

    The Burger Chop Tater Tacos will be available for $16 for fairgoers.

    Best Taste - Sweet: Fletcher's Chocolate Corny Dog by Beck Fletcher

    Fletcher's Chocolate Corny Dog, winner of the Sweet category at the 2026 Big Tex Choice Awards Fletcher's Chocolate Corny Dog, winner of the Sweet category at the 2026 Big Tex Choice AwardsPhoto courtesy of State Fair of Texas

    The Fletcher’s Chocolate Corny Dog consists of milk chocolate fudge hand dipped in Fletcher’s famous Original Corny Dog batter and deep fried until golden perfection. It is topped with a drizzle of yellow vanilla icing (meant to mimic mustard) and served with raspberry compote (meant to mimic ketchup).

    The Fletcher's Chocolate Corny Dog will be the deal among the winners, priced at only $7.

    Best Taste - Sipper: Tropical Coco Fresca by Fruteria Cano

    Tropical Coca Fresca, winner of the Sippers category at the 2026 Big Tex Choice Awards Tropical Coca Fresca, winner of the Sippers category at the 2026 Big Tex Choice AwardsPhoto courtesy of State Fair of Texas

    The Tropical Coco Fresca is a layered pineapple-watermelon agua fresca with chamoy lava Tajin rim, paired with a scoop of icy coconut snow that melts into a creamy tropical explosion of flavors. The drink will go for $12.

    Most Creative: Berry Me in Matcha by Stephen El Gidi (pictured, above).

    The sweet treat features a New York-style cheesecake hand-dipped in Belgian white chocolate, rolled in crushed matcha cookies, drizzled with white chocolate and sweet strawberry jam, and finished with a fresh strawberry slice on top.

    Priced at a relatively expensive $15, it may be the sweet indulgence that fairgoers choose to share.

    The State Fair of Texas will run September 25-October 18, giving people plenty of time to try out these winners and the multitude of other food options the event has to offer.

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