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    Exploring the Emerald City

    Scenic Seattle, America's amazing self-cleaning city

    Leslie Loddeke
    Oct 9, 2011 | 7:00 pm
    • Seattle Center's Monorail was built for the 1962 World's Fair, making theone-mile trip between the Seattle Center campus and the downtown retail districtin less than two minutes. The undulating facade of the Experience Music Projectis in the background.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • The neon coffee mug above Seattle's Best Coffee is a symbol Seattle's coffeeculture.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Colorful produce stalls draw Seattle residents and tourists everyday to the PikePlace Market.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • The energy of Seattle's waterfront is characterized by views of Elliott Bay andthe SoDo neighborhood.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Fresh seafood overflows from the market stalls at Seattle's historic Pike PlaceMarket.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Outdoor seating at Anthony's Pier 66 Bell Street Diner offers a beautiful viewof Seattle's Bell Harbor Marina, Elliott Bay and Puget Sound.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • The eyes on the regal Tlingit totem pole watch as busy shoppers pass through thestreets of Pioneer Square.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • At 605 feet, the Seattle Space Needle towers over the Experience Music Projecton the Seattle Center grounds.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • As part of the City of Seattle's public arts program, The Seattle ArtsCommission installed Hammering Man on Sept. 12, 1992, at the entrance to theRobert Venturi designed Seattle Art Museum at First Avenue and UniversityStreet.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Seattle's Pike Place Market is world famous for its fresh seafood, produce andits lively arts and crafts.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Historic Pioneer Square is Seattle's oldest residential area, now a majorvisitor attraction with restaurants, galleries and lively clubs.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • The majestic Mount Rainier watches over pleasure boats on Puget Sound.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • An aerial view of the Seattle skyline, flanked by Puget Sound on one side andthe Cascade Mountains on the other, while a Washington state ferry makes its wayacross Puget Sound.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Boats move in and out of the Bell Harbor Marina with the Seattle skyline as abackdrop.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Residents and tourists enjoy a sunny Seattle day at one of the many restaurantson Seattle's bustling waterfront. A Washington State Ferry unloads and loadspassengers at the Colman Dock.
      Photo by Tim Thompson/Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau
    • Fishing boats seen from a town called Poulsbo, located west of Seattle
      Photo by Denise Clanton
    • Hikes to Hurricane Hill introduce young and old, local and foreign, to thewonders and delights of the Olympic high country.
      Photo by Denise Clanton

    For many Americans, Seattle may be synonymous with Starbucks, Boeing, Microsoft and Amazon. But after my first visit to this pristine, panoramic site, I will always think of it fondly as America’s Amazing Self-Cleaning City.

    Seriously, by the end of my Alaska Airlines flight home from SEA to IAH, the trash from the meal had vanished so completely from the cabin, I was sure the Seattle folk among us had conscientiously crumpled up and ingested whatever leftover debris they might have found in the wake of the flight attendants.

    It's actually not the only complimentary title I’ve admiringly bestowed upon this beautiful city. But let me begin at the beginning of my infatuation with scenic Seattle over a recent long-weekend trip.

    It was love at first sight from the moment my Continental Airlines flight from Houston landed at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport ("SeaTac"), where, from my window seat, I was dazzled to behold a distant black-and-white image of either Che Guevara or Jimi Hendrix gracing the tails of a rack of parked Alaska Airlines planes, which I’d never seen before.

    What a city! I marveled. What kind of wild, independent, best-of-Baby Boomer spirit must have spawned the idea of putting a sketch of the adventurous author of The Motorcycle Diaries or the legendary electric guitar rocker on the tails of planes belonging to a Seattle-based fleet!

    I didn't find out until later that the black-and-white sketch I saw from afar actually represented a benignly smiling Eskimo's face inside a furry hood. The wreath of radiating fur threw me off. I initially took it to be the long hair of one of a number of revolutionaries and/or rockers whose profiles decorated many a T-shirt years ago. (For example, I once won a tennis match wearing, over my club-code white tennis skirt, a courage-bolstering black T-shirt sporting the profile of Malcolm X and the quote, "By Any Means Necessary.") I guess I was so ready to like Seattle, I was projecting some happy memories onto it.

    Interestingly, during the flight, I had been reading a charming little book called The Art of Travel by my favorite living writer (other than myself, of course), Alain de Botton, who eloquently explains why I was doing what I was doing. De Botton demonstrates, through clever vignettes, how people who travel (including the likes of Baudelaire and Flaubert) introduce their histories, their notions, and ultimately, their present-day realities, into every site they visit, no matter how far away or exotic.

    I like the smiling Eskimo face even more, now that I’ve seen the sketch up close and finally get the picture, so to speak. This fellow looks as if he knows how to find the fun in life, including super-cool places to visit. Who knows, maybe when they took his picture for the airplane sketch, he was amused to hear somebody say it was so clear up in his part of the country, folks could see all the way to Russia.

    What was that strange, sweet scent? Could it be the thing they call. . . “fresh air?” I gulped in extra aboard a pretty white Washington State ferry bound for Bainbridge Island, trying to store up good oxygen in my lungs to guard against future onslaughts of suboptimal inhalations elsewhere.

    Indeed, this was a perfectly gorgeous, crystal-clear, sky-blue, picture-postcard day. The air was so clear in Seattle that day — the first of four cool, sunny days — you really could see for miles, although I don't think I ever caught a glimpse of Moscow.

    Consider the contrast. I had just left the drought-worn, jaundiced, broiling-hot, ozone-overloaded, upper-90s, newer-than-new, supersized metropolis of Houston, where the equatorial sun never stops shining 24 hours a day, for a softly sunlit, historic, resort-like coastal city washed by brisk breezes sweeping through from sailboat-sprinkled Puget Sound. It was so clear, I felt as if I had suddenly regained miles of eyesight I thought I’d lost somewhere in the ozone back home in Texas.

    And what was that strange, sweet scent? Could it be the thing they call. . . “fresh air?” I gulped in extra aboard a pretty white Washington State ferry bound for Bainbridge Island, trying to store up good oxygen in my lungs to guard against future onslaughts of suboptimal inhalations elsewhere.

    It was heavenly to stand at the prow of the vessel gliding smoothly over the sunlit water, feeling the rush of cold sea winds as we picked up speed. The perfect weather gave passengers a stunning view of the impressive downtown skyline as we left land, heading out to sea among scores of sailboats moving as gracefully as swans. I thought of Fauvist painter Raoul Dufy’s bright, colorful regatta paintings as I admired the endless azure sky melting into lapis lazuli-tinted water. Throughout my stay in the Emerald City, I was always looking at brilliant blue and green colors any artist would love to paint: the beautiful blue of Puget Sound and Lake Washington, and the lush, verdant, ubiquitous evergreen trees.

    Another excursion took me to the popular Ballard Fish Ladder, where fish make the transition from salty Puget Sound through the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks at Salmon Bay to the fresh water of the Ship Canal. I was further enamored by the nearby Golden Gardens Park, which encompasses wetlands, picnic areas, hiking trails and an immaculate beach with an incredible view. I saw an adorable family of ducks, and was astounded to note that even they didn’t dare leave so much as a mark on the pristine landscape.

    Seattle was a kaleidoscopic, multisensory experience — a feast for the stomach as well as the eyes. I thoroughly enjoyed both the atmosphere and the cardamom bread I tried at Larsen’s Original Danish Bakery, which is famous for its Kransekage, a festive, multi-tiered tower of an almond-paste cake served at Scandinavian weddings and other celebrations. And I ate the most delicious wild salmon at the waterside restaurant, Chinook’s, in Fisherman’s Terminal as I gazed at all the fishing boats outside the picture windows.

    Regardless of your taste in food, it’s great fun to visit the famous Pike Place Fish Market and watch the fishmongers call out and toss fish to one another as they work hard to satisfy the discerning palates of their customers. While you’re there, you’ll want to stroll the whole Pike Place Market, as I did, to enjoy the vista of a wealth of fresh everything, including a broad array of attractively arranged fruit and vegetables from neighboring farms and big bunches of colorful flowers. The old, restored Sanitary Market Building and Corner Market Building were utterly charming, in and of themselves.

    Much to the appreciation of its many tourists, Seattle has an admirable penchant for preserving the architectural beauty embodying the visual historical lessons of its past, blending the old with an abundance of ultra-new structural designs. There are so many beautifully designed and constructed buildings dating back to the early 1900s whose exteriors are such architectural works of art, one wants to stand and stare at them for hours.

    Two buildings that I particularly liked were the city’s two grand old rail stations: the 1911 Union Station, with its splendid Great Hall, which is often the site of weddings, and the still-functioning, red brick and granite King Street Station, which dates back to 1906.

    I loved taking a trip into the past in the King Street Station, the already beautifully spiffed-up subject of an extensive restoration program, including sustainable design elements. Cross the threshold, and you feel you’re stepping onto the set of a classic old film in the pivotal, dramatic rail station farewell scene. I contemplated future adventures pictured in black-and-yellow Amtrak brochures describing the wondrous scenes one could view from the big windows of the trains chugging along the routes taken by the “Empire Builder” or the “Coast Starlight.”

    During a walk downtown, I came across another fine-looking old building: a big, white, elegant structure on the corner of Fifth Avenue at Pike Street. I craned my neck to admire every bit of its ornately decorated, old-world terra cotta exterior, which was engraved on one side with the word “COLISEUM,” although the modern sign on the front proclaimed “Banana Republic.” Intrigued, I entered the clothing store to discover that it occupied a restored building which originally housed a movie theater. Later, I found that what I had stumbled across was one of the world’s first “movie palaces,” which had opened in 1916. Talk about curb appeal! Very ingenious, Banana Republic!

    Like Houston, Seattle has plenty of ultramodern buildings downtown, as well. I loved the innovative architectural style of the glass-and-steel Central Library, designed by Rem Koolhaus and Joshua Prince-Ramos. It looked to me as if this big, muscular building, which opened in 2004, was trying to punch its way out of its glass wrapping, or was flexing its many giant elbows to get more room. Any way I looked at it, I liked it, especially the way it was designed to be sustainable over the long term. Not just flash, but thoughtful, intelligent planning – that’s what I like to see in architectural design.

    The Westin Seattle Hotel, where I stayed, is also quite contemporary in design, inside and outside. I had gotten a great three-nights-for-two weekend deal on an amazing room high up in one of the hotel’s two huge towers. My room was so glamorous that when I walked in and saw the curtains framing a panoramic window view overlooking the Space Needle, Puget Sound and the surrounding mountains, I felt I’d walked in on the opening act of a grand opera.

    Seattleites pay considerable attention to, and seem to really care about, what goes on and into their city, reflecting the focus they put on their own long-term health and welfare. There’s a definite emphasis on optimal nutrition and fitness, given the heavy patronage of the freshest, organic, locally grown food at the farmers markets and restaurants, and the abundance of runners and bicyclists, even on the steepest of the city’s seven hills.

    Every time I returned to my room, I gave the view a silent standing ovation as I smiled and took it all in, thinking how lucky I was to be alive to see all this beauty from the ground (and water) up in this singularly well-thought-out city. I could literally see that Seattleites pay considerable attention to, and seem to really care about, what goes on and into their city, reflecting the focus they put on their own long-term health and welfare. There’s a definite emphasis on optimal nutrition and fitness, given the heavy patronage of the freshest, organic, locally grown food at the farmers markets and restaurants, and the abundance of runners and bicyclists, even on the steepest of the city’s seven hills.

    In addition to my positive impressions of Seattle from an intellectual perspective, I was surprised to feel an emotional resonance. I felt completely at home in what I found to be an old neighborhood city. I was fascinated to discover that the city of Seattle has a Department of Neighborhoods, which encourages its citizens to get involved in their communities. Great idea!

    I loved seeing the differences among neighborhoods, how they displayed their distinct characters and personalities through their homes and choices of greenery and landmarks. As I’ve been working for decades in higher education, I guess it was natural that I immediately felt comfortable in the University District, which is the serenely attractive area around the beautiful new and old buildings comprising the high-ranking University of Washington (locally, “the U Dub.”)

    Then there was avant-garde Fremont, which gave me any number of chuckles seeing the enormous troll statue hiding under the Aurora Bridge, the imposing statue of Lenin, and the amusingly dressed outdoor sculpture, “Waiting for the Interurban.”

    Speaking of public art, there’s plenty of it in Seattle, like the big, mechanical “Hammering Man” outside the Seattle Art Museum.

    There’s lots more in Seattle to please any visitor’s palate, as can be seen on the helpful Seattle Convention and Visitors Bureau website, which imaginatively describes the city as metronatural. That appropriately signifies that Seattle has a two-sided appeal, as a sophisticated metropolis surrounded by an abundance of natural beauty. Another great online city guide is Lonely Planet’s list of “things to do in Seattle.”

    But the best guides of all during my own visit were my sister and brother-in-law. They greeted me at the airport and graciously insisted on driving me all over town so I could see and enjoy everything they liked about Seattle, which gave me not just a surface view of the city, but an in-depth look at its vibrant lifestyle. They somehow managed to squeeze all that activity into less than four days, from the time I arrived on a Thursday afternoon to the moment I left my hotel Sunday morning.

    It is possible that my rhapsodic review of Seattle was influenced by the fact that my family reunion recreated a little of our own old neighborhood. Then again, maybe that history helped me better understand what I was looking at in Seattle, to see it in context. I keep wondering what my fellow travel enthusiast, de Botton, would say. Either way, I’m pretty sure he would approve.

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    1. tree-mendously stylish

    New, art-filled boutique hotel debuts in Houston with bold vintage flair

    Emily Cotton
    Dec 5, 2025 | 1:59 pm
    Hotel Daphne lobby
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

    Taking one step beyond the threshold of the new Hotel Daphne in the Heights is — in a word — transformative. Layered with handcrafted details, various textiles, warm-natured tones, and vintage and custom pieces that embrace contemporary whimsy, Houston’s newest property from Austin-based company Bunkhouse Hotels has truly outdone itself.

    The five story, 49-room property features an all-day restaurant called Hypsi, along with a picturesque walled-courtyard, jewel-box library, lobby retail shop, and a perfectly-curated art collection that could easily rival the best galleries. Those looking to make a splash will be delighted to know that a pool, dedicated outdoor bar, and 10 poolside bungalow suites are currently in the works to open in the spring of 2027. Hotel Daphne is Bunkhouse’s second Houston property, joining the Hotel Saint Augustine that opened in Montrose in 2024 and earned a prestigious Michelin Key in October.

    Setting itself apart from other new build properties, Hotel Daphne has taken painstakingly-precise care not to have disturbed the numerous mature Live Oak trees surrounding the building, giving the hotel a “we’ve always been here” quality that locals can appreciate. Those very trees inspired the hotel’s name, after Daphne of Greek mythology, who famously changed herself into a laurel tree and represents allure and restraint.

    “With Hotel Daphne, we set out to create a project that bridges Houston Heights’ eclectic energy with its residential roots to seamlessly blend into the surrounding landscape,” Timothy Blanchard, founder, principal architect, Blanchard A+D tells CultureMap. “Drawing on the area’s commercial and historic cues, we shaped the building around large heritage oak trees to create a place that feels welcoming, restrained, and quietly refined.”

    The hotel’s exterior features stepped parapets, dark steel sash windows, and soft gray shutters that bridge the scale between neighboring bungalows and historic industrial structures. Local landscape firm McDugald Steele rounds out the exteriors team with lush selections befitting the building and playing nicely with native surroundings, while giving nods to the Heights’ architectural charm and its origins as a utopian society founded in the 1890’s.

    Bunkhouse designed the interiors in-house, with 80 percent of the furniture and decor designed and selected during the initial design phase, leaving the remaining 20 percent to be selected post buildout. Select pieces like the show-stopping, circular modular sofa in the lobby, were sourced during the recent Round Top Fall Antiques Show. Situated beneath a vintage Murano chandelier, the sofa’s striped linen has been swapped for a more commercial-friendly Gem Velvet from Brentano, while the exposed sides have been dressed in a playfully-patterned Bargello from Nobilis. Suffice it to say: she’s Instagram-ready.

    “We always like to keep a healthy mix of vintage. When everything is custom or off the shelf, the end result can feel planned, prescriptive, and a little too perfect. Leaving room for the unplanned is where a dose of magic happens,” explains Tenaya Hills, head of design for Bunkhouse Hotels and JdV by Hyatt. “If you use up every inch of space with things you decided months before, you lose the creativity that hits you while you’re out shopping for vintage, or even when you’re sitting around with your team in the finished space thinking, ‘Okay, what does this space actually need?’ And also — it’s just fun.”

    A right turn off of the lobby leads to Hotel Daphne’s library. Absolutely drenched in a gorgeous, high-gloss blue, the impressive cabinets and bookcases house everything from books to ceramics and found objects — feel free to grab a book off the shelf and get cozy. Grounded by a handwoven rug by Shame Studios, the library offers three custom tables for gaming, providing an onyx chess set, marble checkers, and one table left bare for board games or other amusements. The library’s French doors can be closed off for private events, meetings, and dinners as well.

    Rounding out the first floor, Italian-style restaurant Hypsi, led by two-time James Beard Award nominee Terrence Gallivan, nods to the area’s Prohibition-era supper club history. Opulent and playful details include a blueberry lava stone bar outfitted with leather Cassina chairs, an indoor fireplace framed by an antique mantel, banquettes piled with psychedelic pillows, vintage Gerli chairs reupholstered in velvet, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti.

    Hypsi’s adjoining vine-wrapped courtyard and Hotel Daphne patio offer outdoor dining. Playful Gubi patio furniture, paired with vintage, mosaic-tiled tables hand-painted to depict nymphs and the like, is available for more informal lounging. Remember those books in the library? Pair one with a cocktail or coffee while taking in an afternoon breeze.

    The remaining four floors are all guest rooms. Hotel Daphne offers a robust selection of double-queen rooms and single-king rooms, with both configurations available in ADA options. Select rooms, like the Terrace King Rooms, offer outdoor balconies. The Terrace King Premiere is 890 square feet, featuring a king bed, lounge area, workspace, and a terrace with dining and lounge furniture — perfect for entertaining a small group outdoors.

    Larger groups may opt for one of the two suites. The Balcony Suite is 850 square feet, featuring a king bed, a bistro table with seating, a parlor room with lounge area, dining table for six, wet bar, and a Juliet balcony. The Penthouse Suite is 1,150 square feet, featuring two rooms with king beds, plus a lounge area, a parlor room, dining table for eight, lounge area, wet bar, and two bathrooms. The Penthouse Suite is a three-key suite and each space can be booked individually.

    Guest rooms feature custom upholstered beds with floral velvet headboards inspired by Trebah Gardens. In fact, the fabric itself is Trebah Velvet by Osborne & Little.

    “We love that fabric and it brought exactly the mood we were looking for,” explains Hills. “Against the room’s more classic backdrop, we wanted an element that felt a little trippy and not-so-perfect, something that captured the spirit of the hotel. The pattern has this dreamy, slightly surreal quality that lets a subtle, ethereal, almost acid trip note come through. The hotel takes inspiration from the Heights’ beginnings as a planned utopian community, but we’ve layered in its history of 1930s clandestine drinking culture and the patina of time to a home that would have occurred on that original idealism. Trebah felt like the perfect way to thread those stories together, refined on the surface, with a little fray underneath.”

    The beds are all dressed in luxe Sferra linens (bath towels are also Sferra), and rooms are additionally outfitted with mohair seating, Arts & Crafts-style credenzas, plus natural stone tables and vintage finds. Adjoining bathrooms are wrapped in rich green Fireclay tiles that play magnificently with onyx vanities. Hotel Daphne’s signature amenities are by Dr. Vranjes of Florence, Italy, and are available for purchase in the lobby’s gift shop, including its signature scent, Dr. Vranjes’ Onyx Rose Tobacco.

    Also available in the gift shop are Hotel Daphne’s signature guest room robes. Collecting robes from Bunkhouse properties has become somewhat of a thing, to say the least.

    “Bunkhouse has a tradition of creating a custom robe for every property, says Hills. “Daphne’s robe was inspired by vintage men’s pajamas, designed to bring a masculine touch to balance the softer, feminine details throughout the rooms. Its striped pattern and colorway were directly drawn from the Trebah Velvet fabric used on the headboards. This connection makes the robe feel distinct but fully integrated with the overall guest room palette.”

    If the carpeting looks familiar, it’s not a trick of the mind. The spaces not clad in brass-inlaid, herringbone wood floors are swathed in patterned carpeting inspired by William Morris’ iconic “Strawberry Thief” pattern, but adjusted and created using AI — that’s certainly one way to mix old with new.

    In an interesting twist to Bunkhouse tradition, a substantial portion of the art on display is held in a private collection. Hotel owner Ben Ackerley and his father will rotate select pieces from the Ackerley Family Collection for guests of the hotel to enjoy. Bunkhouse art director Dina Pugh sourced works by Austin-based painter Alexandra Valenti that are on display in the guest rooms and hallways.

    An additional 160 works of art in the property belong to the Ackerley Family Collection. In January of this year, Hesse McGraw, formerly executive director of Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, came on as Hotel Daphne’s art director. Find works by Vernon Fisher and Kent Dorn on display in the hotel’s lobby, plus artists Kelli Vance and Dorothy Hood on view in the library. The giant Matt Kleberg overlooking the dining room at Hypsi is on loan from Houston’s Hiram Butler Gallery until January, when a commissioned work by the same artist will be completed. The untitled work will be difficult to miss with its 15’ x 8’ stature.

    Ackerley believes that sharing his family’s collection with the city will benefit living, Texas-based artists in a myriad of ways, especially by putting them in front of other potential collectors.

    “99-percent of collectors have no relation to the artists. They look at it as an investment and have no emotional connection to the work or the person behind it,” says Ackerley. “Whereas, we collect people we hang out with. We support living, contemporary Texas artists, and 80-percent of what you’ll see in this hotel is that — there is plenty of cool art.”

    Bunkhouse was purchased by Hyatt Hotels in October 2024, but there are no signs of Hyatt branding in the hotel. The plus is that rooms can be booked with points through Hyatt’s rewards program. Rooms at Hotel Daphne begin at $359 per night.

    Hotel Daphne lobby

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

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