Desert Getaway

Magical West Texas hot spot springs up to beckon Houston travelers

The foothills of the Chinati Mountains reach almost to the Rio Grande River in a rugged and remote area of West Texas. Across this dusty landscape, dotted with creosote bushes and ocotillo, the jagged outline of the mountains stretches 14 miles across the horizon under a wide, blue expanse of sky.

Deep in these foothills — specifically 60 miles south of Marfa, another 37 west from Presidio to Ruidosa, and seven more down unpaved Hot Springs Road — lies a literal oasis in the Chihuahuan desert: Chinati Hot Springs Resort.

The manager had assured me I didn’t need high clearance or four-wheel drive to get there, but we borrowed a Chevy Tahoe with both just in case. It provided peace of mind; the springs practically define “off the beaten path” even in an area known for its remoteness.

But for those who need a getaway, this spot fits the bill.

The hot springs, cooled slightly from 109 to 104 degrees, fill a large outdoor tub overlooking a creek shaded by towering cottonwoods and a sculpted canyon wall. After a long soak, soothed by the sound of trickling water and the wind through the trees (and nothing more), I felt more relaxed than I had in ages.

The resort has seven rustic but comfortable cabins, some with private tubs or showers. All have a restroom with toilet and sink, a mini-fridge and coffee maker, air conditioning, and an outdoor seating area. There are additional restrooms, an outdoor shower, and a bathhouse in the cabin area.

Other common areas include indoor and outdoor dining areas, a half-dozen grills, and a spacious kitchen complete with two ranges, two refrigerators, two coffee makers and all the cooking and dining supplies you could possibly need. Bring plenty of groceries, as the closest place to buy more is the tiny Hot Springs Airport Store back in Ruidosa (another reason for a roomy SUV).

Up the hill overlooking it all, a cool pool has a shaded seating area and a fantastic view.

Those who want to do more than soak can hike the sandy wash next to the springs. Ranch Road 170 along the Rio Grande from Hot Springs Road west to Candelaria is great for biking, with little traffic and hills that turn the ride into a roller coaster. After dark, we found a comfortable spot to appreciate the sight of the Milky Way and thousands of stars in the incredibly dark skies, an increasingly rare treasure in this urban world.

Local weather remains relatively mild year-round, with cool nights even during the hot summer, and the late June to early September monsoons compensate for the drenching with spectacular lightning shows.

The Airport Store also stocks an excellent selection of wines and bills itself as the most remote bar in Texas. Owner Jennifer Weaver also sells her wide selection of handmade leather goods, which make a good souvenir of the trip. If you struggle with the concept of getting away from it all, this is the closest Wi-Fi service. (And if you happen to have your own plane, there actually is a runway.)

While in the area, take in all you can of what it has to offer. Highlights include:

Big Bend National Park’s 800,000 acres of desert and mountains.
Big Bend Ranch State Park (where four-wheel drive and high clearance definitely come in handy).
Famous Starlight Theatre Restaurant’s porch in Terlingua.
Marfa's art scene.
Star parties at McDonald Observatory.
The classic West Texas atmosphere in Alpine.
Luxury digs and fine dining at the Gage Hotel in tiny Marathon.

With so many destinations around the Chinati Hot Springs Resort, this hot spot is the perfect respite for Houstonians looking for a dreamy West Texas escape.

The pool overlooks beautiful West Texas scenery.

Photo by Melissa Gaskill

The pool overlooks beautiful West Texas scenery.

vacation

Airport News

Both Houston airports would be affected by air traffic slowdown

Photo by David Syphers on Unsplash

Flights at George Bush Intercontinental Airport in Houston will run travelers about $392 on average.

The Federal Aviation Administration plans to reduce air traffic by 10 percent across 40 “high-volume” markets to maintain travel safety as air traffic controllers exhibit signs of strain during the ongoing government shutdown.

The affected airports covering more than two dozen states include the busiest ones across the U.S. — including Atlanta, Denver, Dallas, Orlando, Miami, and San Francisco. In some of the biggest cities — such as New York, Houston, and Chicago — multiple airports will be affected.

CBS News has a list of all the airports affected and that list includes both DFW Airport and Dallas Love Field. Other airports in Texas that would be affected include both airports in Houston — Houston Hobby and George Bush Houston Intercontinental.

The FAA is imposing the flight reductions to relieve pressure on air traffic controllers who are working without pay during the government shutdown and have been increasingly calling off work.

Controllers already have missed one full paycheck and are scheduled to again receive nothing next week as as the shutdown drags on.

The FAA has been delaying flights at times when airports or its other facilities are short on controllers.

Passengers should start to be notified about cancellations Thursday. Airlines said they would try to minimize the impact on customers, some of whom will see weekend travel plans disrupted with little notice.

United Airlines said it would focus the cuts on smaller regional routes that use smaller planes like 737s. United, Delta Air Lines, and American Airlines said they would offer refunds to passengers who opt not to fly -- even if they purchased tickets that aren’t normally refundable. Frontier Airlines recommended that travelers buy backup tickets with another airline to avoid being stranded.

Experts predict hundreds if not thousands of flights could be canceled. The cuts could represent as many as 1,800 flights and upwards of 268,000 seats combined, according to an estimate by aviation analytics firm Cirium.

Air traffic controllers have been working unpaid since the shutdown began October 1. Most work mandatory overtime six days a week, leaving little time for side jobs to help cover bills and other expenses unless they call out.

Major airlines, aviation unions, and the broader travel industry have been urging Congress to end the shutdown, which on Wednesday became the longest on record.

Staffing can run short both in regional control centers that manage multiple airports and in individual airport towers, but they don’t always lead to flight disruptions. Throughout October, flight delays caused by staffing problems had been largely isolated and temporary.

But the past weekend brought some of the worst staffing issues since the start of the shutdown.

From Friday to Sunday evening, at least 39 air traffic control facilities reported potential staffing limits, according to an Associated Press analysis of operations plans shared through the Air Traffic Control System Command Center system. The figure, which is likely an undercount, is well above the average for weekends before the shutdown.

During weekends from January 1 to September 30, the average number of airport towers, regional control centers and facilities monitoring traffic at higher altitudes that announced potential staffing issues was 8.3, according to the AP analysis. But during the five weekend periods since the shutdown began, the average more than tripled to 26.2 facilities.

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