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    Travelin' Man

    Pack your sea legs & pretzels and spend 12 hours wildlife watching in the Gulfof Mexico

    Stephan Lorenz
    Sep 4, 2011 | 4:30 pm
    • A spotted dolphin breaks the surface.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Heading east into the sunrise and over serious swells.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The majority of other vessels far from land are shrimp boats, many withmemorable names.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The large, magnificent frigatebirds are the pirates of the open ocean, wherethey harass other birds to steal a meal in acrobatic chases. Here, one percheson a shrimp boat crane.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Away from the continental shelf, the waters of the Gulf of Mexico turn deepblue, the sign of deep water.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • After the trip, grab a few drinks at the bar.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Out of the black and into the blue. The still waters in the harbor were deceptive as the ship, the Osprey, motored past jetties toward the open Gulf.

    The morning was a typical Texas summer, humid and already too warm for pre-sunrise temperatures. We were headed for the shadeless and bouncy expanses of the Gulf of Mexico.

    Gearing up for the Gulf

    Plenty of sleep, non-greasy food and no alcohol are the best recipes to prevent seasickness. I had gotten about four fitful hours, as a family with kids worked out their differences next door until 2 a.m. I'd eaten store-bought sushi, too. But at least I had managed to stay away from the booze.

    To compensate for my lack of sleep, I bought a French vanilla coffee at a gas station along the way. So sweet and hot, it rattled my fillings. Now, it sloshed in my stomach, as we hit the first swells rolling steady from the east.

    I knew I had ginger ale and pretzels in my pack, the stalwarts to keep queasy stomachs at bay. But would it be enough for 12 hours of churning ocean?

    It's a big ocean out there

    Let’s do some quick math. Texas has a coastline of about 370 miles, give or take. The state’s territorial sea extends for 12 nautical miles (that’s 14 regular miles for landlubbers) from the low water line into the Gulf of Mexico. The exclusive economic zone extends to 200 nautical miles (about 230 miles) into the Gulf.

    That offers between 4,440 to 8,500 square miles — depending on which border is used — of Texas open ocean.

    Either way, that’s a lot of Texas rarely glimpsed by the casual traveler.

    The captain of the Osprey promised to show us a small chunk of it, including the deep waters beyond the continental shelf.

    It’s a long way from anything

    In order to reach deep water, which may hold whales and dolphins, we had to endure several hours of the ship tilting over rising waves.

    The continental shelf, an area with bottom depths less than 600 feet, extends far off the Texas coast. Off Galveston, boats have to travel at least 100 miles to reach the shelf edge. Further south, the distance is not quite as far.

    That is why a group of 30 photographers and naturalists collected at the dock on South Padre Island at 6 a.m. We had to tackle just 50 to 60 miles before we would glimpse the shimmering blues of oceanic waters.

    Sea legs, activate!

    Huddled around cups of coffee outside the Hooker’s Bar, hushed conversation preceded the boarding and quick introductions. “Life jackets are located here. We will be going out for 12 hours. We don’t know what we are going to see. And please barf off the stern."

    OK, so I paraphrased a little.

    We lined up along the port and starboard sides. A few brave souls ventured to the bow, and others crowded the cabin. I stayed outside, eagerly breathing fresh air, avoiding the fumes from the engine.

    If we wanted seafood, we'd go to Red Lobster

    But why go? What’s out there? No one really knows — the Gulf is relatively unexplored, and that is the appeal.

    Deep sea fishing is extremely popular along the Texas coasts, with charters leaving nearly year-round. Popular fish include snapper, kingfish, shark, marlin and mahi-mahi.

    Casino cruises formerly plowed the inshore waters, allowing patrons to legally risk their dollars.

    Otherwise, there are dozens of shrimp boats harvesting crustaceans.

    But this trip wasn’t after fish, winnings or edible shellfish — it was purely for the sake of landscape and wildlife. There are amazing vistas out on the open ocean and plenty of creatures not seen by unable-bodied sailors.

    What’s out there?

    Over the past decades, scientists and fanatical students of Texas fauna have discovered that the Gulf of Mexico is anything but empty. Several species of cetaceans, whales and dolphins thrive beyond the shelf edge.

    A lucky few have seen large Bryde’s whales and sperm whales, or smaller pilot and melon-headed whales. More commonly, dolphins are spotted.

    Before we even left the harbor, we observed our first marine mammals — a small group of the common bottle-nosed dolphins followed the wake. These inshore dolphins can often be seen from breakwaters.

    Within the hour, the sun rose dramatically, followed by waves and barren ocean.

    It’s hard on the system

    By mid-morning, a handful of people had abandoned their posts and vegetated in various stages of nausea and torpor. I didn’t feel on top of the world either and nursed my ginger ale.

    I edged towards the bow, wanting to avoid any free-flying chunder at the stern. Fortunately, the boat was loaded with seasoned seafarers and after some indulgence in pretzels, everyone stood their ground.

    The color of the water changed suddenly, from the coffee-colored beach brew to a deep blue. Flying fish of all sizes broke the surface and sailed in low arcs for 20 to 30 feet. A group of large mahi-mahi hovered just below the surface near a large floating tree.

    Closer to shore, we had seen shrimp boats at anchor, some of them processing their catch. But 60 miles from land, there was nothing but empty blue ocean.

    Seven hours into the trip, my determination waned, any curative effects of the ginger ale had dissipated and I was out of pretzels. I relented and took a nap in the cabin, looking forward to a homebound course.

    Welcome wildlife distractions

    Passing a shrimp boat on the return, we came across a large group of spotted dolphins, feeding on scraps thrown overboard. We watched the playful animals ride in the wake of our boat and saw a family group just below our bow.

    Overhead, magnificent frigatebirds, also known as Man O’War birds, soared on massive wings. These are the pirates of the sea, using their superior flight skills to steal food from other seabirds.

    At the end of the day, my body was wracked by the unrelenting waves, and I was glad to see land. We hadn’t seen as much as we had hoped for. The Gulf has more to offer, but I swore to take a break from the sea for awhile.

    The boat docked quickly and all participants disembarked, happily feeling solid ground beneath their feet. After five minutes on dry land, my otolithic organs had adjusted and I already made plans for another trip.

    It’s the unknown waiting out there that keeps me coming back — I'll just pack more ginger ale and pretzels next time.

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    Riverside Reno

    Fresh makeover turns Hill Country hotel into modern riverside refuge

    Brianna Caleri
    Jun 12, 2025 | 2:36 pm
    Hacienda Del Rio Hotel and Bar
    Photo courtesy of Hacienda Del Rio\u200b
    No matter how cosmopolitan the hotel gets, nothing can beat the trees around this pool.

    After a two-year renovation and rebranding, Hacienda Del Rio Hotel and Bar has opened in Gruene, a historic district within New Braunfels. Formerly the Gruene Outpost River Lodge, the property along the Guadalupe River now has 48 renovated rooms, new outdoor sports like pickleball, and updated amenities at the pool.

    The River Lodge's previous aesthetic was DIY and rustic, but the new Hacienda Del Rio has a much more cosmopolitan, contemporary design. The new look is full of midcentury styles, but with other eclectic elements mixed in. A press release declares the space was "designed in the spirit of Spanish colonial architecture," but don't expect anything old-fashioned.

    Hacienda Del Rio\u200b Hotel and Bar interiorThese earthy tones mellow out an otherwise energetic space.Photo courtesy of Hacienda Del Rio

    Texas-based hotel group French Cowboys was behind this major makeover, which started in April 2023. That puts Hacienda Del Rio in a family with Camp Comfort and The Meyer Hotel in the Hill Country town of Comfort; the Claire Hotel near Canyon Lake; the Gruene River Inn and Heidelberg Lodges in New Braunfels, and Webber East in Austin.

    The Hacienda can accommodate up to 178 guests in a variety of room layouts including kings, double queens, and suites. Bathrooms and showers are new, and rooms are outfitted with smart TVs, plus custom steel doors and windows. Photos of guestrooms, although they are colorful, show off a streamlined sensibility.

    A new clubhouse and cocktail bar draws guests who may not be staying overnight. Coffee and breakfast will be available in the morning, followed by daytime snacks, and finally a full bar in the evening. Anyone who stops by can enjoy beer, wine, and signature cocktails, plus shuffleboard, a pool table, and even some workspace. There will also be a new conference room for presentations, retreats, and more.

    Hacienda Del Rio\u200b Hotel and Bar interiorThis lounge is open to hotel guests and the public.Photo courtesy of Hacienda Del Rio

    Departing from the artsy interior to New Braunfels' beautiful surroundings, guests can play pickleball, beach volleyball, and basketball on a half-court, plus fire pits near the river and kayaks, paddleboards, and floats. River adventures will be facilitated by Paddle Texas, which will offer rentals and experiences. Finally, a renovated pool and deck provide more leisure space.

    “‘Del Rio’ reflects the area’s deep connection to the Guadalupe River, where guests can jump in, float, or just hang out by the water, whether it’s at the river or our pool," said French Cowboys co-founder Dylan Petrich in a press release. "And Hacienda captures our vision of creating a vibrant, social place where people can kick back, enjoy the outdoors, and grab a drink, all in one of the Hill Country’s most iconic destinations, without breaking the bank."

    Rates start at $125 per night, and the food and beverage space is open every day. Introductory rates are available for those who book through December 31, 2025.

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