Ah, Labor Day weekend. A symbolic if not precise end of summer. A time to ramp up for the fall, but not without reflecting on that summer vacation, cruise or golf course.

I had the good fortune to combine all three into a “bucket list vacation.” For years I had wanted to play golf in Northern Ireland but the thought of driving on the left hand side of the narrow roads over long stretches with possibly inclement weather deterred me.

Imagine being able to play six of the world’s top golf courses in a week, while sleeping in the same bed and never having to schlep your clubs from course to course. Yes, it is possible — at a price.

  Clients and golfing friends had recommended Kalos Golf, a company that charters small boats (no more than 90 guests per ship) and transports golfers to leading golf courses around the world. We signed up for a six-day cruise that took us from Dublin to Northern Ireland and then to northern Scotland, eventually ending up at St. Andrews, the home of golf.

We arrived at the Dublin airport on a cool, cloudy August day and were met by the Kalos team who whisked us to our home for the next six days, the Clipper Odyssey, a 64-cabin expedition ship that was small enough to dock at ports close to the golf courses we would play. The ship was comfortable and homey—not quite luxurious but a wholly adequate floating hotel.

As the ship sailed at sunset, we drank champagne while we met our fellow passengers. All but two were golfers, and with our common passion for golf we struck an immediate bond. The passengers were predominately between the ages of 45 and 65, and most were currently or previously successful executives.

We were thrilled to meet three Houstonians, all of whom live within five miles of us and are well within six degrees of separation. No matter where you are, it is wonderful to connect with fellow Texans. Dress was casual, even for dinner, and there was no assigned seating.

All of the passengers mixed and mingled so that by the end of the cruise we had shared a golf outing or meal with everyone. And of course there was a convivial atmosphere — we all recognized that for many of us this was a trip of a lifetime. We eagerly discussed the courses we had played and would be playing — our passion for golf being the catalyst for our shared adventure.

 Golf and more golf

Our routine was the same for each day of our cruise, except for one day traversing from Northern Ireland around the desolate but stunningly beautiful coast of north Scotland. We docked early in each morning, as close to the golf course as possible.

After breakfast, we went to the ship’s second dining room where every type of sandwich fixing imaginable was laid out so we could create a gourmet lunch to eat while playing golf. With lunch bag in hand, we were whisked in luxury buses to the course we would play that day, our golf clubs waiting for us upon arrival. Pairings changed each day to allow us a variety of playing partners and tee times. At the end of the day, while we ate dinner and slept, the ship sailed to the next port where another peak golf experience awaited us.

Now for the courses. As a hacker with a handicap ranging from 17 to 20, my comments are not meant to be a technical review of the courses but are my general impressions:

 Royal Portrush

Royal Portrush, located on the coast of Northern Ireland, is rated the 14th best course in the world by Golf Magazine. Rory McIlroy — the No. 1-ranked golfer in the world — holds the course record of 61 and the club had just hosted the Irish Open, so the course was in immaculate condition. Difficult but enjoyable, in large part because of the friendliness of the members and staff. Just walking into the clubhouse was a tribute to the great heritage of the game of golf.

 Royal County Down

Consistently ranked as one of the world’s best golf courses, Royal County Down is nestled beside the Irish Sea amid huge sandhills and framed by mountains. The course is just so immense — awesome doesn’t begin to describe its visual impact. One of the most spectacular vistas of the trip was walking down the first fairway with heather lining both sides, as the fog lifted from the mountains and the church steeple of the town of Newcastle appeared. This course deserves every accolade despite being too difficult for most women and average golfers.

 Royal Dornoch

Located just four degrees below the Arctic Circle and in a remote area in the Scottish Highlands on the North Sea, Royal Dornoch is the holy grail for many golfers. Highly respected golf architect Donald Ross was born in Dornoch and was later a professional at the club, which adds to its mystique.

There are not that many blind shots and the course is right in front of you, yet it is still intimidating to play, and some holes reminded me of Pinehurst No. 2, a famous Ross creation. And did I mention the vistas?

As we played under brilliant sunny skies, children swam in the ocean and locals rode their horses on the beach. A special day and a spiritual experience.

 Cruden Bay

 I wrote about Cruden Bay earlier this year, characterizing it as one of my favorite courses — a mystical, dramatic and quirky course in a town 40 miles north of Aberdeen. The course is set among huge sand dunes, some more than 50 feet high against the backdrop of an often raging North Sea.

The weather is more brutal than Royal Dornoch, 80 miles to the north. While the course is not so long for men, at 5,700 yards for women, with rough that even the locals said was the most penal in decades, it felt more like punishment than it did a decade ago when the driving rain and freezing temperatures seemed just part of the Scottish golf experience.

Still, it is one of the most stunning and mystical courses I have played.

 Carnoustie

Golfers have golfed Carnoustie for more than 400 years. Located less than 30 miles north of St. Andrews, this natural links course is nicknamed "Carnasty" because it has a reputation for being one of the most difficult courses in the world.

I was not looking forward to playing the course, if for no other reason than it has 110 bunkers. Maybe it was because it was an easy walking course or because we played with friends, or maybe it was a sunny day and we scored well, but we found it to be a fair test of golf. While not the most scenic of the courses we played, we are fans.

 St. Andrews

Well what can you say about St. Andrews — the home of golf where golf actually began? Yes, it is all that you read about and then some.

St. Andrews is a college town 40 miles north of Edinburgh that includes seven public courses; the royal jewel is the Old Course. St. Andrews is the largest golf complex in Europe. It is not that dissimilar to Bandon Dunes here in the States, but with six centuries of tradition behind it.

While we were lucky enough to play the Castle, Jubilee and the Old Course, I found the Old Course a little too commercial. It reminded me of Pebble Beach, which is beautiful — a bucket list course but more of a tourist destination than a course you could call your own. And it was only fitting after the golf vacation of a lifetime, on our last day that my husband — who is not a great golfer (sorry John) — would have a hole in one.

The Ireland and Scotland golf cruise vacation comes at a price both literally and figuratively.

 
1. Many Scotland and Ireland courses are walking courses only, and some were quite hilly — yep, that is you Royal County Down and Cruden Bay. If you aren’t in reasonable shape they may not be your cup of tea.
 
2. The world’s top courses are challenging. The courses we played were difficult in different ways from U.S. courses, with narrow fairways, blind shots, gorse and immense bunkers and the added challenge of rapidly changing and often unfavorable weather. For the average golfer, it can be really dispiriting. And women, don’t count on real women's tees. Many of the courses had the women’s tees roughly the same as the men’s tees and adjusted for this by raising par from 72 to 74.
 
3. Cruising is not for everyone. For golfers wanting to hang around the clubhouse, spend time in town, there is simply not that much time. You are there to golf and the schedule is geared to accommodate that. And while I do not get seasick, our last night on the angry North Sea with our fruit plate flying across the room left me lightheaded for a day after leaving the ship.
 
4. It is not cheap. Cruise fares for our particular cruise started at $4,000 per person, including golf, transfers, food and alcohol. In addition, all of these courses are unique enough that you need a caddie to get around the course both as guide and in some cases as a mule. Expect to pay about $50 to $100 per caddie, plus tip.