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    The Hacker

    Fore! Ahoy! World's best golf cruise includes stops at six landmark courses

    Jane Howze
    Sep 2, 2012 | 1:20 pm
    • Royal Dornoch, hilly and lush, and for many, the holy grail of golf
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • St. Andrews viewed from the clubhouse
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • One of the many bunkers at Carnoustie
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • The golfers arrive at Royal County Down.
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • Our floating golf hotel, The Clipper Odyssey
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • The beauty of cruising
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • Steep climbs at Royal County Down
      Photo by Jane Howze
    • Abundant gorse and heather line Royal County Down.
      Photo by Jane Howze

    Ah, Labor Day weekend. A symbolic if not precise end of summer. A time to ramp up for the fall, but not without reflecting on that summer vacation, cruise or golf course.

    I had the good fortune to combine all three into a “bucket list vacation.” For years I had wanted to play golf in Northern Ireland but the thought of driving on the left hand side of the narrow roads over long stretches with possibly inclement weather deterred me.

    Imagine being able to play six of the world’s top golf courses in a week, while sleeping in the same bed and never having to schlep your clubs from course to course. Yes, it is possible — at a price.

    Imagine being able to play six of the world’s top golf courses in a week, while sleeping in the same bed and never having to schlep your clubs from course to course. Yes, it is possible — at a price.

    Clients and golfing friends had recommended Kalos Golf, a company that charters small boats (no more than 90 guests per ship) and transports golfers to leading golf courses around the world. We signed up for a six-day cruise that took us from Dublin to Northern Ireland and then to northern Scotland, eventually ending up at St. Andrews, the home of golf.

    We arrived at the Dublin airport on a cool, cloudy August day and were met by the Kalos team who whisked us to our home for the next six days, the Clipper Odyssey, a 64-cabin expedition ship that was small enough to dock at ports close to the golf courses we would play. The ship was comfortable and homey—not quite luxurious but a wholly adequate floating hotel.

    As the ship sailed at sunset, we drank champagne while we met our fellow passengers. All but two were golfers, and with our common passion for golf we struck an immediate bond. The passengers were predominately between the ages of 45 and 65, and most were currently or previously successful executives.

    We were thrilled to meet three Houstonians, all of whom live within five miles of us and are well within six degrees of separation. No matter where you are, it is wonderful to connect with fellow Texans. Dress was casual, even for dinner, and there was no assigned seating.

    All of the passengers mixed and mingled so that by the end of the cruise we had shared a golf outing or meal with everyone. And of course there was a convivial atmosphere — we all recognized that for many of us this was a trip of a lifetime. We eagerly discussed the courses we had played and would be playing — our passion for golf being the catalyst for our shared adventure.

    Golf and more golf

    Our routine was the same for each day of our cruise, except for one day traversing from Northern Ireland around the desolate but stunningly beautiful coast of north Scotland. We docked early in each morning, as close to the golf course as possible.

    After breakfast, we went to the ship’s second dining room where every type of sandwich fixing imaginable was laid out so we could create a gourmet lunch to eat while playing golf. With lunch bag in hand, we were whisked in luxury buses to the course we would play that day, our golf clubs waiting for us upon arrival. Pairings changed each day to allow us a variety of playing partners and tee times. At the end of the day, while we ate dinner and slept, the ship sailed to the next port where another peak golf experience awaited us.

    Now for the courses. As a hacker with a handicap ranging from 17 to 20, my comments are not meant to be a technical review of the courses but are my general impressions:

    Royal Portrush

    Royal Portrush, located on the coast of Northern Ireland, is rated the 14th best course in the world by Golf Magazine. Rory McIlroy — the No. 1-ranked golfer in the world — holds the course record of 61 and the club had just hosted the Irish Open, so the course was in immaculate condition. Difficult but enjoyable, in large part because of the friendliness of the members and staff. Just walking into the clubhouse was a tribute to the great heritage of the game of golf.

    Royal County Down

    Consistently ranked as one of the world’s best golf courses, Royal County Down is nestled beside the Irish Sea amid huge sandhills and framed by mountains. The course is just so immense — awesome doesn’t begin to describe its visual impact. One of the most spectacular vistas of the trip was walking down the first fairway with heather lining both sides, as the fog lifted from the mountains and the church steeple of the town of Newcastle appeared. This course deserves every accolade despite being too difficult for most women and average golfers.

    Royal Dornoch

    Located just four degrees below the Arctic Circle and in a remote area in the Scottish Highlands on the North Sea, Royal Dornoch is the holy grail for many golfers. Highly respected golf architect Donald Ross was born in Dornoch and was later a professional at the club, which adds to its mystique.

    There are not that many blind shots and the course is right in front of you, yet it is still intimidating to play, and some holes reminded me of Pinehurst No. 2, a famous Ross creation. And did I mention the vistas?

    As we played under brilliant sunny skies, children swam in the ocean and locals rode their horses on the beach. A special day and a spiritual experience.

    Cruden Bay

    I wrote about Cruden Bay earlier this year, characterizing it as one of my favorite courses — a mystical, dramatic and quirky course in a town 40 miles north of Aberdeen. The course is set among huge sand dunes, some more than 50 feet high against the backdrop of an often raging North Sea.

    The weather is more brutal than Royal Dornoch, 80 miles to the north. While the course is not so long for men, at 5,700 yards for women, with rough that even the locals said was the most penal in decades, it felt more like punishment than it did a decade ago when the driving rain and freezing temperatures seemed just part of the Scottish golf experience.

    Still, it is one of the most stunning and mystical courses I have played.

    Carnoustie

    Golfers have golfed Carnoustie for more than 400 years. Located less than 30 miles north of St. Andrews, this natural links course is nicknamed "Carnasty" because it has a reputation for being one of the most difficult courses in the world.

    I was not looking forward to playing the course, if for no other reason than it has 110 bunkers. Maybe it was because it was an easy walking course or because we played with friends, or maybe it was a sunny day and we scored well, but we found it to be a fair test of golf. While not the most scenic of the courses we played, we are fans.

    St. Andrews

    Well what can you say about St. Andrews — the home of golf where golf actually began? Yes, it is all that you read about and then some.

    St. Andrews is a college town 40 miles north of Edinburgh that includes seven public courses; the royal jewel is the Old Course. St. Andrews is the largest golf complex in Europe. It is not that dissimilar to Bandon Dunes here in the States, but with six centuries of tradition behind it.

    While we were lucky enough to play the Castle, Jubilee and the Old Course, I found the Old Course a little too commercial. It reminded me of Pebble Beach, which is beautiful — a bucket list course but more of a tourist destination than a course you could call your own. And it was only fitting after the golf vacation of a lifetime, on our last day that my husband — who is not a great golfer (sorry John) — would have a hole in one.

    The Ireland and Scotland golf cruise vacation comes at a price both literally and figuratively.

    1. Many Scotland and Ireland courses are walking courses only, and some were quite hilly — yep, that is you Royal County Down and Cruden Bay. If you aren’t in reasonable shape they may not be your cup of tea.
    2. The world’s top courses are challenging. The courses we played were difficult in different ways from U.S. courses, with narrow fairways, blind shots, gorse and immense bunkers and the added challenge of rapidly changing and often unfavorable weather. For the average golfer, it can be really dispiriting. And women, don’t count on real women's tees. Many of the courses had the women’s tees roughly the same as the men’s tees and adjusted for this by raising par from 72 to 74.
    3. Cruising is not for everyone. For golfers wanting to hang around the clubhouse, spend time in town, there is simply not that much time. You are there to golf and the schedule is geared to accommodate that. And while I do not get seasick, our last night on the angry North Sea with our fruit plate flying across the room left me lightheaded for a day after leaving the ship.
    4. It is not cheap. Cruise fares for our particular cruise started at $4,000 per person, including golf, transfers, food and alcohol. In addition, all of these courses are unique enough that you need a caddie to get around the course both as guide and in some cases as a mule. Expect to pay about $50 to $100 per caddie, plus tip.
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    1. tree-mendously stylish

    New, art-filled boutique hotel debuts in Houston with bold vintage flair

    Emily Cotton
    Dec 5, 2025 | 1:59 pm
    Hotel Daphne lobby
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

    Taking one step beyond the threshold of the new Hotel Daphne in the Heights is — in a word — transformative. Layered with handcrafted details, various textiles, warm-natured tones, and vintage and custom pieces that embrace contemporary whimsy, Houston’s newest property from Austin-based company Bunkhouse Hotels has truly outdone itself.

    The five story, 49-room property features an all-day restaurant called Hypsi, along with a picturesque walled-courtyard, jewel-box library, lobby retail shop, and a perfectly-curated art collection that could easily rival the best galleries. Those looking to make a splash will be delighted to know that a pool, dedicated outdoor bar, and 10 poolside bungalow suites are currently in the works to open in the spring of 2027. Hotel Daphne is Bunkhouse’s second Houston property, joining the Hotel Saint Augustine that opened in Montrose in 2024 and earned a prestigious Michelin Key in October.

    Setting itself apart from other new build properties, Hotel Daphne has taken painstakingly-precise care not to have disturbed the numerous mature Live Oak trees surrounding the building, giving the hotel a “we’ve always been here” quality that locals can appreciate. Those very trees inspired the hotel’s name, after Daphne of Greek mythology, who famously changed herself into a laurel tree and represents allure and restraint.

    “With Hotel Daphne, we set out to create a project that bridges Houston Heights’ eclectic energy with its residential roots to seamlessly blend into the surrounding landscape,” Timothy Blanchard, founder, principal architect, Blanchard A+D tells CultureMap. “Drawing on the area’s commercial and historic cues, we shaped the building around large heritage oak trees to create a place that feels welcoming, restrained, and quietly refined.”

    The hotel’s exterior features stepped parapets, dark steel sash windows, and soft gray shutters that bridge the scale between neighboring bungalows and historic industrial structures. Local landscape firm McDugald Steele rounds out the exteriors team with lush selections befitting the building and playing nicely with native surroundings, while giving nods to the Heights’ architectural charm and its origins as a utopian society founded in the 1890’s.

    Bunkhouse designed the interiors in-house, with 80 percent of the furniture and decor designed and selected during the initial design phase, leaving the remaining 20 percent to be selected post buildout. Select pieces like the show-stopping, circular modular sofa in the lobby, were sourced during the recent Round Top Fall Antiques Show. Situated beneath a vintage Murano chandelier, the sofa’s striped linen has been swapped for a more commercial-friendly Gem Velvet from Brentano, while the exposed sides have been dressed in a playfully-patterned Bargello from Nobilis. Suffice it to say: she’s Instagram-ready.

    “We always like to keep a healthy mix of vintage. When everything is custom or off the shelf, the end result can feel planned, prescriptive, and a little too perfect. Leaving room for the unplanned is where a dose of magic happens,” explains Tenaya Hills, head of design for Bunkhouse Hotels and JdV by Hyatt. “If you use up every inch of space with things you decided months before, you lose the creativity that hits you while you’re out shopping for vintage, or even when you’re sitting around with your team in the finished space thinking, ‘Okay, what does this space actually need?’ And also — it’s just fun.”

    A right turn off of the lobby leads to Hotel Daphne’s library. Absolutely drenched in a gorgeous, high-gloss blue, the impressive cabinets and bookcases house everything from books to ceramics and found objects — feel free to grab a book off the shelf and get cozy. Grounded by a handwoven rug by Shame Studios, the library offers three custom tables for gaming, providing an onyx chess set, marble checkers, and one table left bare for board games or other amusements. The library’s French doors can be closed off for private events, meetings, and dinners as well.

    Rounding out the first floor, Italian-style restaurant Hypsi, led by two-time James Beard Award nominee Terrence Gallivan, nods to the area’s Prohibition-era supper club history. Opulent and playful details include a blueberry lava stone bar outfitted with leather Cassina chairs, an indoor fireplace framed by an antique mantel, banquettes piled with psychedelic pillows, vintage Gerli chairs reupholstered in velvet, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti.

    Hypsi’s adjoining vine-wrapped courtyard and Hotel Daphne patio offer outdoor dining. Playful Gubi patio furniture, paired with vintage, mosaic-tiled tables hand-painted to depict nymphs and the like, is available for more informal lounging. Remember those books in the library? Pair one with a cocktail or coffee while taking in an afternoon breeze.

    The remaining four floors are all guest rooms. Hotel Daphne offers a robust selection of double-queen rooms and single-king rooms, with both configurations available in ADA options. Select rooms, like the Terrace King Rooms, offer outdoor balconies. The Terrace King Premiere is 890 square feet, featuring a king bed, lounge area, workspace, and a terrace with dining and lounge furniture — perfect for entertaining a small group outdoors.

    Larger groups may opt for one of the two suites. The Balcony Suite is 850 square feet, featuring a king bed, a bistro table with seating, a parlor room with lounge area, dining table for six, wet bar, and a Juliet balcony. The Penthouse Suite is 1,150 square feet, featuring two rooms with king beds, plus a lounge area, a parlor room, dining table for eight, lounge area, wet bar, and two bathrooms. The Penthouse Suite is a three-key suite and each space can be booked individually.

    Guest rooms feature custom upholstered beds with floral velvet headboards inspired by Trebah Gardens. In fact, the fabric itself is Trebah Velvet by Osborne & Little.

    “We love that fabric and it brought exactly the mood we were looking for,” explains Hills. “Against the room’s more classic backdrop, we wanted an element that felt a little trippy and not-so-perfect, something that captured the spirit of the hotel. The pattern has this dreamy, slightly surreal quality that lets a subtle, ethereal, almost acid trip note come through. The hotel takes inspiration from the Heights’ beginnings as a planned utopian community, but we’ve layered in its history of 1930s clandestine drinking culture and the patina of time to a home that would have occurred on that original idealism. Trebah felt like the perfect way to thread those stories together, refined on the surface, with a little fray underneath.”

    The beds are all dressed in luxe Sferra linens (bath towels are also Sferra), and rooms are additionally outfitted with mohair seating, Arts & Crafts-style credenzas, plus natural stone tables and vintage finds. Adjoining bathrooms are wrapped in rich green Fireclay tiles that play magnificently with onyx vanities. Hotel Daphne’s signature amenities are by Dr. Vranjes of Florence, Italy, and are available for purchase in the lobby’s gift shop, including its signature scent, Dr. Vranjes’ Onyx Rose Tobacco.

    Also available in the gift shop are Hotel Daphne’s signature guest room robes. Collecting robes from Bunkhouse properties has become somewhat of a thing, to say the least.

    “Bunkhouse has a tradition of creating a custom robe for every property, says Hills. “Daphne’s robe was inspired by vintage men’s pajamas, designed to bring a masculine touch to balance the softer, feminine details throughout the rooms. Its striped pattern and colorway were directly drawn from the Trebah Velvet fabric used on the headboards. This connection makes the robe feel distinct but fully integrated with the overall guest room palette.”

    If the carpeting looks familiar, it’s not a trick of the mind. The spaces not clad in brass-inlaid, herringbone wood floors are swathed in patterned carpeting inspired by William Morris’ iconic “Strawberry Thief” pattern, but adjusted and created using AI — that’s certainly one way to mix old with new.

    In an interesting twist to Bunkhouse tradition, a substantial portion of the art on display is held in a private collection. Hotel owner Ben Ackerley and his father will rotate select pieces from the Ackerley Family Collection for guests of the hotel to enjoy. Bunkhouse art director Dina Pugh sourced works by Austin-based painter Alexandra Valenti that are on display in the guest rooms and hallways.

    An additional 160 works of art in the property belong to the Ackerley Family Collection. In January of this year, Hesse McGraw, formerly executive director of Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, came on as Hotel Daphne’s art director. Find works by Vernon Fisher and Kent Dorn on display in the hotel’s lobby, plus artists Kelli Vance and Dorothy Hood on view in the library. The giant Matt Kleberg overlooking the dining room at Hypsi is on loan from Houston’s Hiram Butler Gallery until January, when a commissioned work by the same artist will be completed. The untitled work will be difficult to miss with its 15’ x 8’ stature.

    Ackerley believes that sharing his family’s collection with the city will benefit living, Texas-based artists in a myriad of ways, especially by putting them in front of other potential collectors.

    “99-percent of collectors have no relation to the artists. They look at it as an investment and have no emotional connection to the work or the person behind it,” says Ackerley. “Whereas, we collect people we hang out with. We support living, contemporary Texas artists, and 80-percent of what you’ll see in this hotel is that — there is plenty of cool art.”

    Bunkhouse was purchased by Hyatt Hotels in October 2024, but there are no signs of Hyatt branding in the hotel. The plus is that rooms can be booked with points through Hyatt’s rewards program. Rooms at Hotel Daphne begin at $359 per night.

    Hotel Daphne lobby

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

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