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    Daytripping in Houston

    Wild adventures in Anahuac: Mega spiders, a dummy alligator & neon waters —don't forget the bug spray

    Joel Luks
    Aug 19, 2012 | 4:30 pm
    • The calm waters of this trail leading to Lake Anahuac glistened with neon greenmoss.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The slight undulation of the waves offered a break from stillness.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • When the wooded walkway anchored onto an observation deck, Lake Anahuac cameinto view through a handful of trees.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The spiders were as large as my the palm of my hand, but they were just contentdisplaying their stunning weaving from trunk to trunk.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • From the visitors center, the main refuge entrance is approximately 18 milessoutheast.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • As the road approaches East Bay, there are many spots to relax seaside and fish.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • If you are a heavy-duty hiker, this won't be your kind of al fresco destination.There are only about 3.5 miles of trails. But if you are needing a respite forthe hum of urbanism, what you'll find here are many landing zones where you canspace out.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • From the road that circles Shoveler Pond, you can spy for many of the 281species that roam here.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Among them are the great egret, capper rail, black-nested stilt, purple martin,great blue heron and turkey vulture.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Waterlily pads support many bullfrogs.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • Onlook stations offer vast, expansive views of the active terrain.
      Photo by Joel Luks
    • The adventure continues 7 miles east of the main refuge entrance: A smallerstretch that's accessible through a separate road.
      Photo by Joel Luks

    Though I am of the mind that anything that controls the mosquito population deserves pious adoration, I am not particularly fond of any critters that have the potential to bite me, specifically spiders.

    So you can imagine my reaction when the helpful ranger at the Anahuac National Wildlife Refuge visitors center suggested that to avoid them, I should keep my gaze straight forward and not look up while trekking a short, half-a-mile trail leading to Lake Anahuac — I was perturbed.

    "They are all out in full force," she said referring to the golden silk orb-weavers that hang between tall cypress trees.

    Crap. It was too late to turn around and I was looking forward to a genteel promenade through the Texas marshlands.

    Though the majority of the 34,000-acre sanctuary comprises ancient flood plains, flat prairies, winding bayous, cheniers (sandy ridges that isolate freshwater wetlands from the salinity of the Gulf of Mexico) and low-lying grasslands with impressive, expansive views, this particular track was rich in arboriculture.

    With nightmarish musings of one of those arthropods having a feast at my expense — because what insect wouldn't find a melange of Peruvian, Belgian, Polish, Canadian and German blood appetizing (for the record, I know spiders don't feed on human plasma) — I forged ahead and learned that my fears were unfounded.

    Yes, these creatures were as large as my the palm of my hand, but they were just content displaying their stunning weaving from trunk to trunk. I wasn't dinner.

    With alligator hunting season on the horizon and Anahuac's Gatorfest 2012 just a month away (Sept. 13-16), a few were lurking around.

    Instead, I was taken by the calm waters that glistened with neon green moss and the slight undulation of the waves that offered a break from stillness. When the wooded walkway anchored onto an observation deck, Lake Anahuac came into view through a handful of trees.

    I had forgotten all about the spiders.

    What to expect

    With alligator hunting season on the horizon and Anahuac's Gatorfest 2012 just a month away (Sept. 13-16), a few were lurking around. Thankfully, the one that "closed in" on us was a dummy that was part of clever short introduction film inside the reception area.

    The 48-mile, one-hour jaunt from Houston to Anahuac was as one would expect. After leaving behind the industrial landscape of Houston's east end (Baytown and Channelview), forested terrain flanked I-10. The vistas open up when driving through the lakes and rivers that deposit their waters on Trinity Bay.

    From the visitors center, the main refuge entrance is approximately 18 miles southeast. Upon arrival, there's a helpful ranger station where you can gather maps, purchase beverages and ask for advice for getting the most out of your excursion.

    Like AmEx, don't leave home without bug spray and plenty of it.

    If you are a heavy-duty hiker, this won't be your kind of al fresco destination; there are only about 3.5 miles of trails. But if you are needing a respite from the hum of urbanism, what you'll find here are many landing zones where you can space out — and get lost in thought — in what seems infinite smooth fields split by paved roadways and walking paths, most of which are wheelchair accessible. As the road approaches East Bay, there are many spots to relax seaside and fish.

    From the road that circles Shoveler Pond, you can spy for many of the 281 species that roam here, among them the great egret, capper rail, black-nested stilt, purple martin, great blue heron and turkey vulture.

    From the road that circles Shoveler Pond, you can spy for many of the 281 aviary species that roam here, among them the great egret, capper rail, black-nested stilt, purple martin, great blue heron and turkey vulture.

    The adventure continues 7 miles east of the main refuge entrance: A smaller stretch that's accessible through a separate road.

    On Skillern Tract, freshwater fish like crappie, largemouth, bass, gar, bowfin, channel catfish and blue catfish can be harvested from one of the three fishing platforms. The 2-mile Live Oak Trail, though camouflaged by taller grasses, is home to butterflies, hummingbirds, songbirds, shorebirds, wintering waterfowl and wading birds — a photographer's paradise. Just walk slowly and quietly to avoid scaring off any winged residents.

    From Houston, the trip can easily be done in one morning, leaving plenty of time to explore the town of Anahuac, population 2,010. Most of the restaurants are closed on Sundays — at least they were on this particular day — but I am told by the locals that Tony's BBQ is one of the best places in town.

    After visiting the original residence of Thomas Jefferson Chambers, the county's namesake, and the Shilling Office, a 1890 medical office outfitted with period equipment, you can say that you've been-there, done-that — and check Anahuac off your to-do list.

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    wine guy Wednesday

    Chris Shepherd recommends pulling into a food lovers' paradise in San Antonio

    Chris Shepherd
    May 7, 2025 | 5:07 pm
    Pullman Market exterior
    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma
    Find Pullman Market in the Pearl Brewery complex.

    Is there a grocery store worth driving three hours for? Absolutely, and it’s worth staying a day or two to fully understand it.

    I’ve known the crew at Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group for a while now — chef Kevin Fink, his wife Ali Fink, and pastry chef Tavel Bristol-Joseph are the ones I talk to the most — and every time they open something new, I’m blown away. It’s not just the concepts; it’s how they treat their team and the energy they bring as human beings. They’re just good people doing things the right way.

    So when my wife Lindsey and I planned a quick trip to San Antonio, we made it a point to check out their latest project: Pullman Market at the historic Pearl Brewery. I’ve known about this thing for a few years now, but let me be real — when they first told me about it, I didn’t get it. These are the folks behind some of Austin’s best restaurants — Emmer & Rye, Hestia, Canje, Ezov — so when they mentioned expanding to San Antonio, I thought, "Cool, another restaurant." Then Kevin walked me up to this massive, empty building — 40,000 square feet — and said, “This is going to be Pullman Market.” And he gave me that look, you know the one: the long stare where he’s clearly seeing the future, and I’m standing there like, “You’ve officially lost your mind.”

    But here’s the thing — Kevin and the team had a plan. I didn’t need to know the whole vision; I just knew it’d be good.

    Fast forward three years, and boom — Pullman Market finally opened in April 2024. I intentionally stayed away from any press or previews because I love a good grocery store (you can often find me aimlessly wandering H-E-B or Central Market), and I wanted to experience this one fresh.

    We met up with Kevin, Ali, and their son Hudson outside the market. From the moment I walked in, I knew this wasn’t just a grocery store. First stop: produce. My jaw hit the floor. Almost everything is from Texas — peaches, melons, heirloom tomatoes, a rainbow of peppers. It’s a love letter to Texas farms.

    Then we hit the ice cream bar, and things got wild. They use milk from Oro Blanco, a local cow’s milk dairy, which gives the ice cream this rich, velvety texture. I tried a salted cream flavor that tasted like cream cheese with just a whisper of salt. Then came chocolate. Then came a chicken and waffle ice cream — yes, made with chicken stock. Then a lime leaf one that was bright and punchy. And we’d barely made it 10 feet inside.

    Past the coffee bar and the rotisserie — where chickens spin over trays of potatoes soaking up every last drop of drippings — you hit the bakery. Breads, cookies, pastries made all day, every day. Then across the way are, and I don’t say this lightly, some of the best flour tortillas in Texas. Made from locally grown Sonoran wheat and the rendered lard from local Berkshire pork and Tallow from Texas beef from the butcher shop. Grab a few dozen. Thank me later.

    The seafood and meat departments are top-tier. The seafood is pristine. The ceviche bar proves that in one bite. Then, there's the butcher counter, where everything’s whole-animal and dry-aged in-house. I’ve worked with whole animals before — this place is the real deal. Wagyu, Angus, pork, lamb, chicken, dry-aged steaks, house-cured meats. It’s a playground. You can even grab a burger or bratwurst right next door at Burgers by the Butcher.

    Pantry goods? Thoughtful. From housemade pastas to chips, canned goods, and a wine room that’ll make your inner wine geek do cartwheels.

    The situation gets even better when you consider the restaurants at Pullman. Having all that produce, meat, seafood, and bread under one roof means they can rotate ingredients through every concept. Whole animal butchery just makes sense here. You see it in action.

    We ate at Mezquite, which highlights Sonoran-style Mexican cuisine. The menu pulls straight from the market — crudos, squash dishes riffing on queso, tacos, and something called a caramelo that’s basically the best quesadilla you’ve ever had. The tortillas are stars. Corn for chips and tostadas, and that incredible flour version for everything else. I went back the next day to stock up.

    Next up was Fife & Farro — pizza and pasta. The mozzarella’s made in-house from water buffalo milk and served just warm enough to hold together. Paired with pesto and sungold tomatoes? Unreal. When the cheese firms up, it goes on their wood-fired pizzas with perfectly fermented dough. Pasta’s made steps away in the pasta shop. Whether you buy some to take home or post up at the bar for a plate of alla vodka with penne and Calabrian chile, it’s all fire.

    Then, we made a choice. The best kind of choice. Dinner was a double header: Nicosi, the 20-seat, dessert tasting bar, and Isidore, their live fire, steakhouse-style concept.

    At Nicosi, they cover your phone with a sticker and ask you to just be present. No pics, no texts. Just be here. The tasting explores sweet, savory, bitter, acidic — it’s not just chocolate and sugar. Tavel’s mind is wild, and the team brings it to life in a way that makes you pause. I’m not spoiling the menu. You’ve got to walk that path yourself.

    Then on to Isidore. The smell of wood smoke greets you before you sit down. The kitchen’s fueled by whatever’s freshest from the market. One day it’s tomatoes, the next it’s lamb. Meat gets butchered steps away. It’s this beautiful loop — everything feeds into everything else, and it works.

    Pullman Market isn’t just a market. It’s not just restaurants. It’s a living, breathing ecosystem run by people who actually know what they’re doing. It’s disciplined, it’s thoughtful, and it’s damn inspiring. Kevin, Tavel, and the entire team — what they’ve built is like nothing I’ve seen before.

    I hope one day Houston gets a Pullman Market. Until then, I’ll pack a cooler, head to San Antonio, and load up on tortillas, meats, butter, and pasta. I’ll stay at Hotel Emma, because I’ll definitely need another meal — or three — before I head home.

    Congratulations on a very successful first year of Pullman Market!

    -----

    Looking for more San Antonio recommendations? Ask Chris for his favorites via email at chris@chrisshepherd.is.

    Pullman Market exterior
      

    Photo by Robert Jacob Lerma

    Find Pullman Market in the Pearl Brewery complex.

    Chris Shepherd won a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southwest in 2014. The Southern Smoke Foundation, a nonprofit he co-founded with his wife Lindsey Brown, has distributed more than $11 million to hospitality workers in crisis through its Emergency Relief Fund. Catch his TV show, Eat Like a Local, every Saturday at 10 am on KPRC Channel 2.

    chefsgrocery storeskevin finknews-you-can-eatpullman markettavel bristoljoseph
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