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    Go Greek

    The magic of Santorini: Stunning views & a laid-back lifestyle make for aperfect vacation

    Laura Spalding
    Jul 24, 2010 | 8:00 am
    • The allure of Santorini captivates tourists from the world over.
    • The beauty of the island is best experienced over several days that allow forplenty of exploration.
      Photo by Yoo Chul Chung
    • Honey raki (specific to Greece) is the perfect cocktail for a Santorini sunsetas seen from the Spaldings' villa.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • The Spalding family in Santorini — John and Laura and their children Jeb andLexie.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • Kamari Beach is less crowded that some of the better-known locales.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • The shops in main town Fira open to the rock-paved streets that can murder yourheels!
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • Photo by Laura Spalding
    • Lexie Spalding, 10, and Laura Spalding pose for photos at a scenic overlook.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • White domes of churches that are usually owned by families and are most oftenonly open one day a yea.r
      Photo by Laura Spalding

    Editor's note: Laura and John Spalding have romped through Santorini more than once and renewed their vows their on their 10th wedding anniversary, but no visit was more meaningful than this summer, when the Spaldings and their children — Lexie, 10, and Jeb, 9 — took a house there for more than a week, indulging in the beauty and rich culture of the Greek Isles.

    We did it. We are moving to Santorini!

    I am selling all of my clothes (keeping some special ones for my daughter) and giving away anything else that will not fit our new lifestyle. We put the house on the market and will send most of our furniture to storage. We are calling the kids’ school to request that they be given spots upon their return. This might not be a forever thing.

    We will stay in a simple villa in Fira, the main city, until ours is built. We have the perfect location—a bluff from which you can see both sides of the water surrounding the island. To be able to watch the sunset is a must and we forewent many great pieces of land to get that.

    Okay. We are dreaming, but we have had this recurring dream more times than you can even imagine. If you have ever been to Santorini, you understand completely.

    Do we have a great life here in Houston with family, children happily ensconced in a marvelous school, deep friendships, commitments? Absolutely. Nonetheless, if you have never been to Santorini — and I mean BEEN, as in stayed, not just rushed off of your cruise ship to ride up the cliffs on a donkey, buy some trinkets, and watch the sun set with a cocktail before shoving off — then you cannot begin to imagine how serious I am when I tell you that every time my husband and I go, we envision an entirely new way of life. A simple way.

    It’s the damndest thing. Everyone who lives in Santorini has the same story: They came on holiday 20 years ago and never left.

    We get it.

    The entire island has a vibe. Vanquished are any gala gowns, tuxedos, suits, unbending schedules. Heels can often make you look ridiculous. As the days go on, the amount of make-up I wear diminishes. Flowy dresses, flip-flops and a hat are all I need.

    A special beauty

    The Greek Isles are stunning, but none is as achingly beautiful as Santorini. It is beyond breathtaking and photographs do not do it justice. The cliffs rise forbiddingly from teal blue water and the cities perch atop them. I remember standing on top of a cliff looking out and thinking that, if you did not believe in God, you would after seeing this place. It is an odd thing to think and I have no idea why that thought entered my head, but that was 15 years ago and it has remained. The drama of the landscape seems to put life back home, with any of its problems, into perspective. Whatever troubled you, well, it’s just not that significant.

    There are so many reasons to make that call relinquishing home, find some way of making a living and never returning to civilization as we know it. In order to understand this gravitational pull, you must go to Santorini and spend several days.

    I would wager that every picture you have ever seen representing the Greek Isles is a picture of Santorini. The Cycladic architecture is sexy and alluring, fresh white with touches of royal blue. Villas are cut into the volcanic rock and rooms are scooped out.

    This time, our villa was The Blue Angel, huge by the island’s cliffside standards (with three bedrooms), ethereal and luxurious. The stained glass touches and rounded walls made us feel as if we were living in something Gaudi conceived.

    Magical sunsets

    Everything stops for the sunsets. Every evening around 7:20, we rush to get to the prime viewing locale, clutching our cocktail, to watch as the magnificent sun gradually slips behind distant islands. If you look at the city, you can see flashbulbs going off all over and you know the cameras will never do the job of capturing one of the most stunning natural occurences ever created.

    After the sunset, people linger over drinks, then head for dinner. We like traditional Greek food and savor the bonus that Greece is cheap by comparison to other foreign countries. You can have a lovely three-course dinner with a bottle of decent table wine and dessert for under $50.

    Wining and dining

    For a special evening out, The Sphinx in the heart of Fira is lovely. Or, you can venture to quiet Oia, on the tip of the island, and go to the multi-leveled Ambrosia or 1800. The food at these places is pricey, but much more elegant, continental and the meal still will not break your piggy bank.

    Then, there is the nightlife. The pebbled streets thump to the music of all different kinds of bars and clubs. Murphy’s is a favorite and it sits alongside a row of similar pubs offering cheap drinks, music of all kinds and an energy that is intoxicating. You can roll off the beach, grab a drink and dance on the bar until the sun comes up. It is great fun to go to the Absinthe Bar with a view of the caldera, the still-active volcano that lies in the middle of C-shaped Santorini. Happy Hour is 10 p.m. to 11:30, not 5:00 to 6:30. Relax! That’s “Island Time” and you need to be on it!

    We try to make it to Mama’s House for the 1:00 p.m. breakfast. We remember when she started in a little shanty and served “American Breakfast” all day long. She is now on Facebook! Getting to her before 1:00 p.m. is not an easy feat. After a night of ouzo or “the green fairy,” only a greasy American breakfast will do. My husband loves her because she calls him “her baby” and always hugs his head.

    Shop 'til you drop

    Shopping is fun and I particularly like haggling over various evil eye accessories, which you find in every shop. The great buys include cool linen shirts and pants for men, leather sandals of every variety, cool clothes you will not see anywhere else, talavera-style pottery, linens for your home, and TONS of tchotchke.

    We go to Makis’ shop, located in the last corner of the pebbled path of shops along the cliff. He gives us hugs and kisses and immediately pours ouzo for all of us with a hearty “Yamas”! The shop contains mostly alcohol and olive oil, but also sells all kinds of souvenirs. We start on absinthe as we pick out the best olive oil, preserved sea animals (a personal yuck for me, but a huge score for our kids) and ouzo to send home.

    The jewelry on the island is amazing. I have never seen such creativity and luxury. Nick the Greek is a good choice, but I prefer the guy across from Makis’ shop. There are so many astounding pieces producing complete visual overload. To pick just one would be torture for any woman.

    On the beach and the water

    The beaches are lovely, albeit crowded. Skip the most popular red and black sand beaches and spend a day on Kamari Beach. It is also a black sand beach, but has less people. The water is not even that cold (at least this last time) and has a buoyancy that we do not get in Galveston because of the saline. Massage therapists are on hand to rub sore muscles at the cheapest prices—great cure for all the stair climbing and any suffering from the night before. The tavernas off the beach are great fun for taking in football (soccer) and local Greek cuisine.

    On this last visit, we chartered a sailboat and floated around the islands. That way, our happy troupe could see the beaches and the island from afar. We swam around the caldera. Our swimsuits might have turned orange, but we can surely say that we did it. The outing was great with offerings of light Greek food and plenty of drinks for all.

    We headed home with what is called the “Sunset Armada,” the boats that head out to catch the glorious sunset, then head back in when the sun has dropped. It was the perfect way to spend the day, feeling accomplished, seeing breathtaking scenery and yet not really doing a darn thing!

    Please just trust me and go. Getting there is not cheap. Staying there is. I just ask that you send us a postcard if you don’t plan on coming back! I will live vicariously through you for the rest of my happy days here in Houston, and raise a thimble-full of ouzo to you every now and again.

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    arrive early

    Houston airports prepare for 1.3 million flyers on Memorial Day weekend

    Jef Rouner
    May 19, 2025 | 4:30 pm
    TSA check-in area at George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH).
    Photo provided by Houston Airports
    Hobby and Bush are prepared for the expected crowds flying on Memorial Day

    George Bush Intercontinental Airport (IAH) and William P. Hobby Airport (HOU) are estimated to see 1.3 million travelers during the Memorial Day period (May 20 - May 28). Despite large crowds, the airports say they have prepared with multiple new improvements designed to slow traffic and make check-ins easier.

    “Air travel drives jobs, business and tourism — and this summer, Houston Airports is powering that growth,” said Jim Szczesniak, director of aviation for Houston Airports. “From streamlined security to a smarter website to new flights and fresh amenities, we’re delivering improvements that support Mayor Whitmire’s call for a more user-friendly Houston. These upgrades aren’t just about moving people—they’re about moving our economy forward.”

    IAH in particular has seen remarkable drops in wait times thanks to the new IAH International Arrivals Curb. Part of the $1.458 billion IAH Terminal Redevelopment Program (ITRP), it reduced airport traffic during the Christmas holidays by a whopping 99 percent, with the average wait time reaching only two minutes. Other improvements include TSA Precheck enrollment pods at both airports and the agility for international travelers to recheck bags without leaving the terminal after they have passed through customs.

    The amount of travelers expected for Memorial Day is slightly below 2024 numbers, but Houston Airports expects record-breaking travel over the summer. Current estimates show 19.5 million people moving through both airports through Labor Day, a 250,000 increase over last year. Part of this can be attributed to IAH's increasing status as the gateway to Mexico, Central America, and South America, running non-stop flights to new tourist hotspots like Puerto Escondido.

    In additions to streamlining the flight processes, Houston Airports are expanding concession and shop offerings. Hobby recently opened The Rustic, Chick-fil-A, Pei Wei, and Throughgood Bistro. Bush added Hip & Humble, a boutique gift and souvenir seller focused on the items for women travelers and those looking for a little luxury when they return home. And, as always, Houston Airports have some of the finest art in the country. All of it together makes traveling to and from the city much less stressful than the big crowds would portend.

    "We’re ready to welcome millions with efficiency and a warm Houston spirit,” said Szczesniak. “This summer, travelers will see and feel the difference we’ve made.”

    news/travel
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