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    Go Greek

    The magic of Santorini: Stunning views & a laid-back lifestyle make for aperfect vacation

    Laura Spalding
    Jul 24, 2010 | 8:00 am
    • The allure of Santorini captivates tourists from the world over.
    • The beauty of the island is best experienced over several days that allow forplenty of exploration.
      Photo by Yoo Chul Chung
    • Honey raki (specific to Greece) is the perfect cocktail for a Santorini sunsetas seen from the Spaldings' villa.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • The Spalding family in Santorini — John and Laura and their children Jeb andLexie.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • Kamari Beach is less crowded that some of the better-known locales.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • The shops in main town Fira open to the rock-paved streets that can murder yourheels!
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • Photo by Laura Spalding
    • Lexie Spalding, 10, and Laura Spalding pose for photos at a scenic overlook.
      Photo by Laura Spalding
    • White domes of churches that are usually owned by families and are most oftenonly open one day a yea.r
      Photo by Laura Spalding

    Editor's note: Laura and John Spalding have romped through Santorini more than once and renewed their vows their on their 10th wedding anniversary, but no visit was more meaningful than this summer, when the Spaldings and their children — Lexie, 10, and Jeb, 9 — took a house there for more than a week, indulging in the beauty and rich culture of the Greek Isles.

    We did it. We are moving to Santorini!

    I am selling all of my clothes (keeping some special ones for my daughter) and giving away anything else that will not fit our new lifestyle. We put the house on the market and will send most of our furniture to storage. We are calling the kids’ school to request that they be given spots upon their return. This might not be a forever thing.

    We will stay in a simple villa in Fira, the main city, until ours is built. We have the perfect location—a bluff from which you can see both sides of the water surrounding the island. To be able to watch the sunset is a must and we forewent many great pieces of land to get that.

    Okay. We are dreaming, but we have had this recurring dream more times than you can even imagine. If you have ever been to Santorini, you understand completely.

    Do we have a great life here in Houston with family, children happily ensconced in a marvelous school, deep friendships, commitments? Absolutely. Nonetheless, if you have never been to Santorini — and I mean BEEN, as in stayed, not just rushed off of your cruise ship to ride up the cliffs on a donkey, buy some trinkets, and watch the sun set with a cocktail before shoving off — then you cannot begin to imagine how serious I am when I tell you that every time my husband and I go, we envision an entirely new way of life. A simple way.

    It’s the damndest thing. Everyone who lives in Santorini has the same story: They came on holiday 20 years ago and never left.

    We get it.

    The entire island has a vibe. Vanquished are any gala gowns, tuxedos, suits, unbending schedules. Heels can often make you look ridiculous. As the days go on, the amount of make-up I wear diminishes. Flowy dresses, flip-flops and a hat are all I need.

    A special beauty

    The Greek Isles are stunning, but none is as achingly beautiful as Santorini. It is beyond breathtaking and photographs do not do it justice. The cliffs rise forbiddingly from teal blue water and the cities perch atop them. I remember standing on top of a cliff looking out and thinking that, if you did not believe in God, you would after seeing this place. It is an odd thing to think and I have no idea why that thought entered my head, but that was 15 years ago and it has remained. The drama of the landscape seems to put life back home, with any of its problems, into perspective. Whatever troubled you, well, it’s just not that significant.

    There are so many reasons to make that call relinquishing home, find some way of making a living and never returning to civilization as we know it. In order to understand this gravitational pull, you must go to Santorini and spend several days.

    I would wager that every picture you have ever seen representing the Greek Isles is a picture of Santorini. The Cycladic architecture is sexy and alluring, fresh white with touches of royal blue. Villas are cut into the volcanic rock and rooms are scooped out.

    This time, our villa was The Blue Angel, huge by the island’s cliffside standards (with three bedrooms), ethereal and luxurious. The stained glass touches and rounded walls made us feel as if we were living in something Gaudi conceived.

    Magical sunsets

    Everything stops for the sunsets. Every evening around 7:20, we rush to get to the prime viewing locale, clutching our cocktail, to watch as the magnificent sun gradually slips behind distant islands. If you look at the city, you can see flashbulbs going off all over and you know the cameras will never do the job of capturing one of the most stunning natural occurences ever created.

    After the sunset, people linger over drinks, then head for dinner. We like traditional Greek food and savor the bonus that Greece is cheap by comparison to other foreign countries. You can have a lovely three-course dinner with a bottle of decent table wine and dessert for under $50.

    Wining and dining

    For a special evening out, The Sphinx in the heart of Fira is lovely. Or, you can venture to quiet Oia, on the tip of the island, and go to the multi-leveled Ambrosia or 1800. The food at these places is pricey, but much more elegant, continental and the meal still will not break your piggy bank.

    Then, there is the nightlife. The pebbled streets thump to the music of all different kinds of bars and clubs. Murphy’s is a favorite and it sits alongside a row of similar pubs offering cheap drinks, music of all kinds and an energy that is intoxicating. You can roll off the beach, grab a drink and dance on the bar until the sun comes up. It is great fun to go to the Absinthe Bar with a view of the caldera, the still-active volcano that lies in the middle of C-shaped Santorini. Happy Hour is 10 p.m. to 11:30, not 5:00 to 6:30. Relax! That’s “Island Time” and you need to be on it!

    We try to make it to Mama’s House for the 1:00 p.m. breakfast. We remember when she started in a little shanty and served “American Breakfast” all day long. She is now on Facebook! Getting to her before 1:00 p.m. is not an easy feat. After a night of ouzo or “the green fairy,” only a greasy American breakfast will do. My husband loves her because she calls him “her baby” and always hugs his head.

    Shop 'til you drop

    Shopping is fun and I particularly like haggling over various evil eye accessories, which you find in every shop. The great buys include cool linen shirts and pants for men, leather sandals of every variety, cool clothes you will not see anywhere else, talavera-style pottery, linens for your home, and TONS of tchotchke.

    We go to Makis’ shop, located in the last corner of the pebbled path of shops along the cliff. He gives us hugs and kisses and immediately pours ouzo for all of us with a hearty “Yamas”! The shop contains mostly alcohol and olive oil, but also sells all kinds of souvenirs. We start on absinthe as we pick out the best olive oil, preserved sea animals (a personal yuck for me, but a huge score for our kids) and ouzo to send home.

    The jewelry on the island is amazing. I have never seen such creativity and luxury. Nick the Greek is a good choice, but I prefer the guy across from Makis’ shop. There are so many astounding pieces producing complete visual overload. To pick just one would be torture for any woman.

    On the beach and the water

    The beaches are lovely, albeit crowded. Skip the most popular red and black sand beaches and spend a day on Kamari Beach. It is also a black sand beach, but has less people. The water is not even that cold (at least this last time) and has a buoyancy that we do not get in Galveston because of the saline. Massage therapists are on hand to rub sore muscles at the cheapest prices—great cure for all the stair climbing and any suffering from the night before. The tavernas off the beach are great fun for taking in football (soccer) and local Greek cuisine.

    On this last visit, we chartered a sailboat and floated around the islands. That way, our happy troupe could see the beaches and the island from afar. We swam around the caldera. Our swimsuits might have turned orange, but we can surely say that we did it. The outing was great with offerings of light Greek food and plenty of drinks for all.

    We headed home with what is called the “Sunset Armada,” the boats that head out to catch the glorious sunset, then head back in when the sun has dropped. It was the perfect way to spend the day, feeling accomplished, seeing breathtaking scenery and yet not really doing a darn thing!

    Please just trust me and go. Getting there is not cheap. Staying there is. I just ask that you send us a postcard if you don’t plan on coming back! I will live vicariously through you for the rest of my happy days here in Houston, and raise a thimble-full of ouzo to you every now and again.

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    1. tree-mendously stylish

    New, art-filled boutique hotel debuts in Houston with bold vintage flair

    Emily Cotton
    Dec 5, 2025 | 1:59 pm
    Hotel Daphne lobby
    Photo by Julie Soefer
    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

    Taking one step beyond the threshold of the new Hotel Daphne in the Heights is — in a word — transformative. Layered with handcrafted details, various textiles, warm-natured tones, and vintage and custom pieces that embrace contemporary whimsy, Houston’s newest property from Austin-based company Bunkhouse Hotels has truly outdone itself.

    The five story, 49-room property features an all-day restaurant called Hypsi, along with a picturesque walled-courtyard, jewel-box library, lobby retail shop, and a perfectly-curated art collection that could easily rival the best galleries. Those looking to make a splash will be delighted to know that a pool, dedicated outdoor bar, and 10 poolside bungalow suites are currently in the works to open in the spring of 2027. Hotel Daphne is Bunkhouse’s second Houston property, joining the Hotel Saint Augustine that opened in Montrose in 2024 and earned a prestigious Michelin Key in October.

    Setting itself apart from other new build properties, Hotel Daphne has taken painstakingly-precise care not to have disturbed the numerous mature Live Oak trees surrounding the building, giving the hotel a “we’ve always been here” quality that locals can appreciate. Those very trees inspired the hotel’s name, after Daphne of Greek mythology, who famously changed herself into a laurel tree and represents allure and restraint.

    “With Hotel Daphne, we set out to create a project that bridges Houston Heights’ eclectic energy with its residential roots to seamlessly blend into the surrounding landscape,” Timothy Blanchard, founder, principal architect, Blanchard A+D tells CultureMap. “Drawing on the area’s commercial and historic cues, we shaped the building around large heritage oak trees to create a place that feels welcoming, restrained, and quietly refined.”

    The hotel’s exterior features stepped parapets, dark steel sash windows, and soft gray shutters that bridge the scale between neighboring bungalows and historic industrial structures. Local landscape firm McDugald Steele rounds out the exteriors team with lush selections befitting the building and playing nicely with native surroundings, while giving nods to the Heights’ architectural charm and its origins as a utopian society founded in the 1890’s.

    Bunkhouse designed the interiors in-house, with 80 percent of the furniture and decor designed and selected during the initial design phase, leaving the remaining 20 percent to be selected post buildout. Select pieces like the show-stopping, circular modular sofa in the lobby, were sourced during the recent Round Top Fall Antiques Show. Situated beneath a vintage Murano chandelier, the sofa’s striped linen has been swapped for a more commercial-friendly Gem Velvet from Brentano, while the exposed sides have been dressed in a playfully-patterned Bargello from Nobilis. Suffice it to say: she’s Instagram-ready.

    “We always like to keep a healthy mix of vintage. When everything is custom or off the shelf, the end result can feel planned, prescriptive, and a little too perfect. Leaving room for the unplanned is where a dose of magic happens,” explains Tenaya Hills, head of design for Bunkhouse Hotels and JdV by Hyatt. “If you use up every inch of space with things you decided months before, you lose the creativity that hits you while you’re out shopping for vintage, or even when you’re sitting around with your team in the finished space thinking, ‘Okay, what does this space actually need?’ And also — it’s just fun.”

    A right turn off of the lobby leads to Hotel Daphne’s library. Absolutely drenched in a gorgeous, high-gloss blue, the impressive cabinets and bookcases house everything from books to ceramics and found objects — feel free to grab a book off the shelf and get cozy. Grounded by a handwoven rug by Shame Studios, the library offers three custom tables for gaming, providing an onyx chess set, marble checkers, and one table left bare for board games or other amusements. The library’s French doors can be closed off for private events, meetings, and dinners as well.

    Rounding out the first floor, Italian-style restaurant Hypsi, led by two-time James Beard Award nominee Terrence Gallivan, nods to the area’s Prohibition-era supper club history. Opulent and playful details include a blueberry lava stone bar outfitted with leather Cassina chairs, an indoor fireplace framed by an antique mantel, banquettes piled with psychedelic pillows, vintage Gerli chairs reupholstered in velvet, and custom Carimate dining chairs by Vico Magistretti.

    Hypsi’s adjoining vine-wrapped courtyard and Hotel Daphne patio offer outdoor dining. Playful Gubi patio furniture, paired with vintage, mosaic-tiled tables hand-painted to depict nymphs and the like, is available for more informal lounging. Remember those books in the library? Pair one with a cocktail or coffee while taking in an afternoon breeze.

    The remaining four floors are all guest rooms. Hotel Daphne offers a robust selection of double-queen rooms and single-king rooms, with both configurations available in ADA options. Select rooms, like the Terrace King Rooms, offer outdoor balconies. The Terrace King Premiere is 890 square feet, featuring a king bed, lounge area, workspace, and a terrace with dining and lounge furniture — perfect for entertaining a small group outdoors.

    Larger groups may opt for one of the two suites. The Balcony Suite is 850 square feet, featuring a king bed, a bistro table with seating, a parlor room with lounge area, dining table for six, wet bar, and a Juliet balcony. The Penthouse Suite is 1,150 square feet, featuring two rooms with king beds, plus a lounge area, a parlor room, dining table for eight, lounge area, wet bar, and two bathrooms. The Penthouse Suite is a three-key suite and each space can be booked individually.

    Guest rooms feature custom upholstered beds with floral velvet headboards inspired by Trebah Gardens. In fact, the fabric itself is Trebah Velvet by Osborne & Little.

    “We love that fabric and it brought exactly the mood we were looking for,” explains Hills. “Against the room’s more classic backdrop, we wanted an element that felt a little trippy and not-so-perfect, something that captured the spirit of the hotel. The pattern has this dreamy, slightly surreal quality that lets a subtle, ethereal, almost acid trip note come through. The hotel takes inspiration from the Heights’ beginnings as a planned utopian community, but we’ve layered in its history of 1930s clandestine drinking culture and the patina of time to a home that would have occurred on that original idealism. Trebah felt like the perfect way to thread those stories together, refined on the surface, with a little fray underneath.”

    The beds are all dressed in luxe Sferra linens (bath towels are also Sferra), and rooms are additionally outfitted with mohair seating, Arts & Crafts-style credenzas, plus natural stone tables and vintage finds. Adjoining bathrooms are wrapped in rich green Fireclay tiles that play magnificently with onyx vanities. Hotel Daphne’s signature amenities are by Dr. Vranjes of Florence, Italy, and are available for purchase in the lobby’s gift shop, including its signature scent, Dr. Vranjes’ Onyx Rose Tobacco.

    Also available in the gift shop are Hotel Daphne’s signature guest room robes. Collecting robes from Bunkhouse properties has become somewhat of a thing, to say the least.

    “Bunkhouse has a tradition of creating a custom robe for every property, says Hills. “Daphne’s robe was inspired by vintage men’s pajamas, designed to bring a masculine touch to balance the softer, feminine details throughout the rooms. Its striped pattern and colorway were directly drawn from the Trebah Velvet fabric used on the headboards. This connection makes the robe feel distinct but fully integrated with the overall guest room palette.”

    If the carpeting looks familiar, it’s not a trick of the mind. The spaces not clad in brass-inlaid, herringbone wood floors are swathed in patterned carpeting inspired by William Morris’ iconic “Strawberry Thief” pattern, but adjusted and created using AI — that’s certainly one way to mix old with new.

    In an interesting twist to Bunkhouse tradition, a substantial portion of the art on display is held in a private collection. Hotel owner Ben Ackerley and his father will rotate select pieces from the Ackerley Family Collection for guests of the hotel to enjoy. Bunkhouse art director Dina Pugh sourced works by Austin-based painter Alexandra Valenti that are on display in the guest rooms and hallways.

    An additional 160 works of art in the property belong to the Ackerley Family Collection. In January of this year, Hesse McGraw, formerly executive director of Contemporary Arts Museum Houston, came on as Hotel Daphne’s art director. Find works by Vernon Fisher and Kent Dorn on display in the hotel’s lobby, plus artists Kelli Vance and Dorothy Hood on view in the library. The giant Matt Kleberg overlooking the dining room at Hypsi is on loan from Houston’s Hiram Butler Gallery until January, when a commissioned work by the same artist will be completed. The untitled work will be difficult to miss with its 15’ x 8’ stature.

    Ackerley believes that sharing his family’s collection with the city will benefit living, Texas-based artists in a myriad of ways, especially by putting them in front of other potential collectors.

    “99-percent of collectors have no relation to the artists. They look at it as an investment and have no emotional connection to the work or the person behind it,” says Ackerley. “Whereas, we collect people we hang out with. We support living, contemporary Texas artists, and 80-percent of what you’ll see in this hotel is that — there is plenty of cool art.”

    Bunkhouse was purchased by Hyatt Hotels in October 2024, but there are no signs of Hyatt branding in the hotel. The plus is that rooms can be booked with points through Hyatt’s rewards program. Rooms at Hotel Daphne begin at $359 per night.

    Hotel Daphne lobby

    Photo by Julie Soefer

    Hotel Daphne introduces sophisticated vintage flair to The Heights.

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