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    The Weekend Escape

    Forget the Alamo (and the River Walk): Discover the true San Antonio spirit

    Barbara Kuntz
    Jun 12, 2010 | 7:26 am
    • Mission San José, "Queen of the Missions"
      Photo by Richard Varr
    • The Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum
      Photo courtesy of McNay Art Museum
    • The atmospheric Majestic Theater
    • The bell tower at Mission San Juan
    • By Diego Rivera, McNay's first oil painting purchase
    • Mission Concepción
    • A stairwell at Mission Concepción
    • Mission Espada
    • The church at Mission San José
    • The famous Rose Window at Mission San José
    • The courtyard at The McNay, including the custom-designed pond in the shape ofthe Rose Window
    • Pablo Picasso, "Guitar and Wine Glass," 1912
    • Mary Cassatt, "Woman Bathing," 1891
    • Vincent Van Gogh, "Women Crossing the Fields," 1890 (detail)
    • Sculpture on The McNay's grounds

    Just entering the city limits of San Antonio after an auto pilot-style drive (straight and due west!) on Interstate 10, you’ll sense a welcoming change of pace. You’re in “mañana land,” as a dear friend of mine used to call the Alamo City’s tempo. So relax, enjoy and savor what I like to refer to as my top must-does (“M”s) of San Antonio.

    BUT WHAT ABOUT…?
    You’re absolutely right: What about the Alamo (doesn’t start with an M) and the River Walk (no M there, either)? So what the heck are you going to do? Do keep those historical and nationally renowned landmarks on your to-do itineraries for another visit.

    THE MISSIONS

    Entering San Antonio, travel south of downtown off Roosevelt Avenue to immediately put yourself in a San Antonio frame of mind: The San Antonio Missions National Historical Park, where tours led by knowledgeable docents of these grand structures, gracefully standing down a curving road from one another, are available 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily.

    Retrace the footsteps of the missions’ Native Americans and Franciscan friars, the latter there to acculturate and Christianize the native population. The impressive architecture of each mission immortalizes Spanish missions, which were communities where the church stood as the focus. Lofty bell towers, enchanting arched doorways and amazing frescos haunt at one look. They memorize at another.

    On the grounds, find portions of native habitat excellent for birding at Mission San Juan. See Mission Espada's 270-year-old aqueduct irrigation system. Mission Concepción, a stone church dedicated in 1755, appears very much as it did more than two centuries ago. Stand in awe of the “Queen of the Missions,” Mission San José.

    I first met the missions from an exterior, architectural point of view at a dusk setting, with golden, late sun-lit buildings and extended, end-of-the-day shadows. Quiet. Peaceful. Magnificent.

    MEALS
    You definitely won’t go hungry (or thirsty) on a trip to San Antonio. Of course, authentic Mexican food establishments are in abundance. Let’s stay within our doable day-trip territory, as it’s probably after lunch time, and you’ll find plenty of options for great restaurants in the vicinity of The Marion Koogler McNay Art Museum, your next stop.

    Twin Sisters. Just behind The McNay on North New Braunfels Avenue. A before-its-time “green” food establishment, with sprouts served on about every sandwich and offering housemade parmesan bread. Try the heart-healthy muffins, with the sweet potato ones being my choice of baked goods. Casual.

    Tong Thai. Across Austin Highway from The McNay. Every bowl dish is filled with delicious authentic ingredients. The Thai tea is extremely refreshing, and the traditional Thai bubble drinks are yummy … and conversation pieces! Casual.

    Cappy’s. On Broadway in the heart of ’09 (Zip Code 78209, a prominent location). Owned by restaurateur and civic leader Cappy Lawton, Cappy’s is a favorite lunching (and dining) spot for ‘09ers. Choose from a chef-driven menu ranging from delicate ahi tuna salads to pot roast soup to Kobe burgers. Casual to whatever you want it to be.

    Paesanos. Near the Alamo Quarry Market off Basse Road, Paesanos offers an extensive wine selection and delicious Italian food. Not on the menu, but a local staple from the restaurant’s original location on Main Avenue: The “special salad,” complete with avocado slivers, hearts of palm, artichoke hearts and tomatoes served over a bed of mixed lettuces. The shrimp paesano is excellent, too. Casual or whatever you want it to be.

    OK, Mexican Food

    Paloma Blanca Mexican Cuisine. Hostest-with-the-mostest Nelly Mendoza Olsen, general manager, will treat you right with excellent fare in her hacienda-inspired establishment on Broadway. Whether you choose appetizers by a soothing fountain or a leisurely lunch on the terrace, welcome to a diverse menu. Again, casual or whatever you want it to be.

    FINALLY, WE’RE THERE
    Marion Koogler McNay (1883-1950) lived an exciting, bold and daring life for a woman of her time … maybe for a woman of any time. She married four or five times, but always resumed using her first husband’s last name.

    She was seen in New Mexico, where she frequently traveled in a passionate self-driven pursuit of collecting Southwestern art (including Georgia O’Keeffe pieces), donning and dancing in Native American celebratory attire, And she so loved peacocks that she purchased a flock of them to run free at her delight in the mansion’s courtyard (where, I should mention, she insisted her pond be in the shape of the Rose Window at Mission San José, which was carved by a Spanish sculptor in tribute to his sweetheart, Rosa.) During her lifetime, Mrs. McNay amassed more than 800 pieces of artwork.

    Thanks to Mrs. McNay, The McNay stands as the bequest of most of her fortune and there's an ever-expanding art collection in the 24-room Spanish Colonial Revival-style mansion that sits on 23 acres landscaped with fountains, broad lawns with mature trees and a Japanese-inspired garden and fishpond.

    The museum focuses primarily on 19th- and 20th-century European and American art by such artists as Paul Cézanne, Pablo Picasso, Paul Gauguin, Henri Matisse, Diego Rivera, Alexander Calder, Mary Cassatt and Edward Hopper. The collection today consists of more than 14,000 objects and is considered one of the finest collections of contemporary art and sculpture in the Southwestern United States.

    A note: If you see a docent leading a group of young children on a tour of the museum, quietly join them as an observer. Being a McNay children’s docent myself, I know these visitors don’t just say the darndest things, but they ask the BEST questions.

    The McNay: A San Antonio treasure not to miss.

    A NIGHT TO REMEMBER (FOR ANOTHER TIME)

    The Majestic Theater

    
San Antonio philanthropist Joce Straus deserves an encore for leading a massive fund-raising drive to save San Antonio’s oldest and largest atmospheric theater from the wrecking ball. For many years, The Majestic remained the largest theater in Texas and the second largest movie theater in the United States.

    Listed in 1975 on the National Register of Historical Places, The Majestic made it to designation in 1993 as a National Historic Landmark. Thankfully so, as it’s absolutely so breathtaking inside you may get lost in its grandeur and leave any performance in the background.

    On the orchestra level, secure seats in rows A through F for a clear view of the ceiling, where stars float and sparkle high above the stage surrounded by a replicated renaissance Italian village. If you have friends with a Starlight Suite, a corporate-studded area at the very front of the mezzanine level, go for it and enjoy the plush comfortable lounge seating, granite-topped cocktail tables … and drinks!

    Park in the multi-level lot on Travis Street behind the historic Sheraton Gunter Hotel, once the Frontier Inn built in 1837 just one year after the fall of the Alamo. Opened in 1909 as The Gunter, the luxury hotel was officially added in 2007 to the National Register of Historic Places.

    Stroll through The Gunter’s lobby on your way to a Majestic performance, and even stay there for a night in the hub of downtown San Antonio (and within walking distance of the River Walk). Have a pre-show cocktail or even dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

    And then sit back and enjoy the show.

    Viva San Antonio!

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    Get your kicks

    Texas is just the start of the ultimate Route 66 road trip

    Associated Press
    Apr 9, 2026 | 9:30 am
    Cadillac Ranch
    Cadillac Ranch/ Facebook
    Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is an essential stop on a Route 66 road trip.

    ALBUQUERQUE, N.M. (AP) — There are faster ways to get from Chicago to Los Angeles, but none have the allure or cultural cachet of Route 66.

    To John Steinbeck, it was the Mother Road that led poor farmers from Dust Bowl desperation to sunny California. To Native Americans along the route, it was an economic boon that also left scars. To Black travelers, it offered sanctuary during segregation. And to music fans, it was the place to get their kicks.

    Route 66 marks its 100th anniversary this year. Despite losing its status decades ago as one of the nation’s main arteries, people from around the world still flock to it to take perhaps the quintessential American road trip and soak in its neon lights, kitschy motels and attractions, and culinary offerings.

    The dream
    Route 66, which runs for roughly 2,400 miles (3,860 kilometers) from Chicago through Missouri, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona before ending in Santa Monica, California, was stitched together a century ago from a collection of Native American trading routes and old dirt roads with the goal of linking the industrial Midwest to the Pacific coast.

    Oklahoma businessman Cyrus Avery, known as the Father of Route 66, saw it as more than just a way to cross the country efficiently. It was a chance to connect rural America and create new pockets of commerce.

    Avery knew the number 66 would be ripe for marketing and could be seared into drivers' minds, and he was right: Route 66 has been immortalized in movies, books, including Steinbeck’s The Grapes of Wrath and Jack Kerouac’s On the Road, and songs such as Bobby Troup's “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66,” which served as an anthem for post-World War II optimism and mobility.

    If you’ve ever planned to motor west and take the highway that’s the best, the year of Route 66's 100th anniversary just might be the time.

    Many stretches of Route 66 may be littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but there's still much history and magic to be discovered. With each stop the wheels of imagination turn, leaving travelers to contemplate what life was like for the people and communities that made the road hum.

    Here are essential stops and sights to see on a road trip along historic Route 66.

    Route 66 Somewhere along Route 66. Photo by Morten Andreassen on Unsplash

    Illinois
    Chicago has long been one of the country’s economic engines, with access to international waters and railroads that linked all corners of the country.

    For some travelers, the journey is fueled more by the food than the scenery, and there’s plenty to choose from — slices of homemade pie, thick shakes, cheeseburgers and an assortment of fried delights.

    The Cozy Dog Drive In in Springfield, the Illinois capital, is one of the many diners that sprang up along Route 66, and its breaded hot dogs on a stick have stood the test of time. Third-generation owner Josh Waldmire says the recipe is a secret.

    Waldmire’s grandfather, Ed, saw the concoction’s potential as fast and convenient road food and developed a system for frying the dogs vertically.

    Missouri
    Route 66 has its share of twists and turns, and it’s no surprise that a highway famous for its quirky roadside attractions would cross the nation’s most famous river on one of the more peculiar bridges known to modern engineering.

    As the road nears St. Louis, the mile-long (1.6-kilometer-long) Chain of Rocks Bridge hovers more than 60 feet (18 meters) above the Mississippi River.

    Engineers eventually built a straighter, higher-speed option, and a poor resale market spared the original bridge from the scrap heap. Today it’s reserved for pedestrians and cyclists.

    A median in Missouri is home to St. Robert Route 66 Neon Park, which features orphaned neon signs that once beckoned travelers to stop at certain sites and businesses along the highway. Often handcrafted, they weren’t only markers for motels, cafes and gas stations, but were also folk art and symbols of local culture.

    Kansas
    The Sunflower State hosts only a short stretch of Route 66, but it packs a punch with the Kan-O-Tex Service Station in Galena. A classic example of roadside fare, the station served as inspiration for the animated 2006 Pixar film Cars.

    Director John Lasseter and his crew took road trips along the route, digging into history and looking for elements that could bring the project to life. It was in Galena where they spotted the old boom truck that served as the basis for the character Tow Mater. The plot wasn’t far off, as so many once bustling towns — like the fictional Radiator Springs — nearly faded away after being bypassed by an interstate.

    Kansas also is home to the Brush Creek Bridge, otherwise known as the Rainbow Bridge. It’s on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of few remaining examples of the concrete arched bridges designed by James Barney Marsh.

    Route 66 Neon signs along Route 66. Photo by Mick Haupt on Unsplash

    Oklahoma
    There was a real danger for some who traveled the road, particularly Black motorists passing through inhospitable and segregated areas during the Jim Crow era. The Green Book — a guide first published in 1936 by Victor Hugo Green — listed hotels, restaurants and gas stations that would serve Black customers.

    The Threatt Filling Station near Luther wasn’t listed in The Green Book, but it was a safe haven — not only for getting fuel, but for barbecue and baseball. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it was the only known Black-owned and operated gas station along Route 66.

    Route 66 is littered with abandoned buildings and faded signs, but one example of the highway’s resilient spirit stands tall in Sapulpa, near Tulsa. The restored Tee Pee Drive-In Theater offers a step back into the 1950s, when the booming car culture helped spawn thousands of drive-in theaters nationwide.

    Built in 1949, the drive-in officially opened in the spring of 1950 with a screening of John Wayne’s “Tycoon.” It was one of the few drive-ins at the time to have paved pathways. Over the years, it survived a tornado, a fire that destroyed the concession stand and break-ins before being shuttered for more than 20 years. It reopened in 2023.

    route 66 historic district Get your kicks on Route 66 in Amarillo. Photo courtesy of Visit Amarillo

    Texas
    Blink and you might miss it, but a stop at the Cadillac Ranch in Amarillo is a must for any Route 66 journey. For decades, visitors have been spray-painting the 10 vintage Cadillacs at the site and mulling the transitory nature of time as Bruce Springsteen did in his 1980 song of the same name.

    It’s not a ranch, but rather a public art installation created in 1974 by the art and architecture collective Ant Farm. At first, the cars — which were half-buried front-down at a 60-degree angle — were used for target practice. Others would scratch their initials into the metal. The spray painting started later.

    Arrive in Adrian and you’re halfway through your trip. Steps from a white line marking the midpoint of Route 66 is the Midway Cafe, where the “ugly pies” are anything but.

    If you’re still hungry, head back to Amarillo for a 72-ounce (2 kilogram) steak and all the sides at The Big Texan. If you can finish the meal in an hour or less, it's free.

    New Mexico
    More than half of Route 66 cuts through sovereign Native American lands, often tracing routes used by tribes long before settlers arrived. Much like the railroad in the 1800s, the highway opened the door to a new era of commerce, but it also fueled stereotypes about cultures along the way.

    There are still faded and crumbling references to tipis and feathered headdresses at some stops along the historic highway. The symbols were easily appropriated for marketing by roadside vendors but weren't indicative of the separate and distinct Native American cultures in the area.

    Today, tribes are telling their own stories and showcasing their creations, whether it be pottery, fruit pies or poems.

    Albuquerque boasts the longest intact urban stretch of Route 66. Those 18 miles (29 kilometers) pass through several neighborhoods and business districts, from historic Old Town to Nob Hill.

    Some of the old motor lodges and neon signs along what is now Central Avenue have been restored. Other signs are being reimagined using hubcaps, elaborate lowrider-inspired paint jobs and New Mexico’s classic yellow and red license plates in a nod to the car culture that is very much still alive in the city.

    Arizona
    Musician Jackson Browne was taking his own road trip in the early 1970s when his car left him stranded in Winslow. The experience inspired the lyrics to the Eagles’ hit “Take it Easy.” But it’s certainly not the only song that is a must-have for a Route 66 playlist.

    Bobby Troup created a classic American road anthem in the 1940s with “(Get Your Kicks on) Route 66.” Nat King Cole, Chuck Berry, The Rolling Stones and Depeche Mode carried it through the decades, each covering the song with their own flair.

    While standing on a corner in Winslow, don’t be surprised if someone saunters up with a guitar and starts strumming favorites from their own road trip playlist.

    Before leaving the state, the one-time gold mining town of Oatman features a Wild West atmosphere, daily staged shootouts and beloved burros. Oatman was a destination along one of the original alignments of Route 66 via a treacherous path through the Black Mountains, but it was later bypassed as part of improvements made in the 1950s.

    California
    Once a desert oasis, Roy’s Motel & Café in Amboy is a quintessential Route 66 landmark. The towering neon sign is one of the most photographed spots along the road. Inside, foreign currency left by international visitors lines one wall. Across the street, a clothing post decorated with shoes, shirts and other items juts up from the desert floor.

    This stretch of the highway through the Mojave Desert offers a special kind of solitude. The pavement gets rough in spots and the landscape takes charge, showing off Joshua trees, wide-open spaces and the remnants of ancient volcanic activity.

    Much of the area is undeveloped, meaning it looks a lot like it would have when Route 66 was commissioned in 1926.

    After making it through oft-congested Los Angeles, the iconic Santa Monica Pier marks the end of the line, and it’s nothing short of a perpetual party with a steady stream of spectators and performers. Although many stretches of Route 66 have lapsed into decay, the breathtaking views of the Pacific Ocean are a reminder of the pursuits made possible by the road over the last century.

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