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    Weekend in Waxahachie

    Ghost-filled Texas town with architectural marvels calls for a weekend escape

    Kendall Morgan
    kendall Morgan
    Jun 6, 2016 | 2:20 pm

    Anchored by a well-preserved, nine-story 1895 courthouse, Waxahachie, a three-hour drive north of Houston, has a timeless appeal that’s evident from the moment you step into the downtown square. Mom-and-pop antique shops, Victorian houses, friendly residents, and more than its fair share of festivals (not to mention an inordinate amount of ghosts) make the Gingerbread City a destination for any road tripper.

    “We’re a Main Street city, and we have a strong downtown merchants association,” says downtown development director and heritage preservation officer Anita Brown. “We have gobs and gobs of historical properties, and because we’ve got such a strong preservation ethic, we’ve saved and maintained a lot of buildings.

    “But we don’t want them to be martyrs to a time gone by; we redevelop them and turn them into new-use spaces, which is why we’ve earned the moniker of ‘picture-perfect city.’”

    Festival Time
    Classic films such as Places in the Heart, The Trip to Bountiful, and Tender Mercies were shot in the area, so it’s no surprise Waxahachie has its own Crossroads of Texas film festival, which takes place in May.

    Says the festival’s director Amy Hollywood (who also serves as the city’s director of communications), “Robert Benton, who directed Places in the Heart, grew up here, and we originally wanted to celebrate that. We started talking about it six years ago, and this (was) the third one. We had this crazy idea, which we often have, and it just kind of grew.”

    Summer moonlight movies continue June 10, July 15, and August 12, and the Trucks and Tunes series features food trucks imported from Dallas and live music on June 11, July 9, and August 13.

    The city’s flower-filled Crape Myrtle Festival on July 4 is a slice of Americana that includes picnics, cookouts, and fireworks. Later in the year, on October 29, Bob Phillips holds his annual Texas Country Reporter Festival, with a live performance from Restless Heart.

    What To See
    No visit to Waxahachie is complete without a trip to the courthouse square for a look at the Ellis County Courthouse. Designed in the Romanesque Revival style, the building’s impressive turrets, columns, and sandstone accents set the standard for the rest of the city’s architectural marvels, which include a William Sidney Pittman-designed church on Aiken Street.

    The Ellis County Museum features exhibits devoted to the Civil War, the Masonic Temple, and baseball player Paul Richards. An exhibition exploring the life of legendary Comanche/English-American warrior and statesman Quanah Parker runs through June.

    Specializing in outsider and folk art, the charming Webb Gallery has a reputation for freewheeling openings and the occasional celebrity drop-in. Currently showing “Gumption,” a collection of work from Buz Blurr and Adam Young (through July 31), the gallery closes for a few weeks in August to prep for a September exhibit of sideshow banners by Snap Wyatt and work by New Orleans artist Molly McGuire.

    Running since 2000, the Waxahachie Farmer’s Market is held downtown every Saturday from 9 am to 1 pm, where shoppers can buy locally grown vegetables, stone ground wheat, pottery, plants, and a few baked goods. On the way, pop by the corner of Elm and Madison for a look at the Legends Baseball Mural, a colorful tribute to America’s favorite pastime.

    Because the city tends to hang on to its buildings, some of its past residents like to stick around too. Among the spooky destinations are the 1915 Burleson House; the Cajun-influenced eatery Catfish Plantation, which proudly goes by the moniker “most haunted restaurant in Texas,” and the former Rogers Hotel, which is currently used as an office building. Despite being skeptical, both Brown and Hollywood have cited paranormal experiences, and visitors longing for one of their own can sign up for a ghost tour.

    Finally, the winding Waxahachie Hike & Bike Trail is the perfect way to explore the city from top to bottom, including the historic cemetery.

    Where To Stay
    Although there are plenty of chain hotels near the city, charming bed-and-breakfasts are the right way to get in the Waxahachie spirit. Built in 1815, English Merchant’s Inn is owned by interior-design writer Mary Baskin, whose collections of antiques and curiosities fill the rooms.

    With rooms named after famous writers and politicians, the Chaska House is a revival-style abode decorated in hand-carved furnishing.

    Where To Eat
    Locals credit the 21-year-old Dove’s Nest with revitalizing downtown. Housed in the old hardware store, the space is both a restaurant and a gift shop, and visitors can order from the menu of “new Southern cuisine” after shopping from a selection of antiques, gifts, and candles.

    Open in 2015, Farm Luck Soda Fountain & Dry Goods offers classic sandwiches and ice cream social favorites, while the College Street Pub features both live music and a selection of great craft beers.

    Other favorites include Tuscan Slice’s wood-fired Italian, Oma’s Jiffy Burger, the Two Amigos Taqueria, and Toshio’s sushi. The recently opened Fish Grill, an upscale seafood bistro on Rogers Street, is spearheading new development, with revitalized lofts on top of shops and restaurants.

    Where To Shop
    Revamping and repurposing is a theme in the shops of Waxahachie, where you’ll find lots of antiques and re-loved furniture. The shabby chic Texas Pearls & Co. offers custom painting, furniture production, and design alongside its repurposed gems.

    Crooked Creek Farms carries vintage furniture. Drop by The Mix or Plain Jane & Co. for clothes and accessories.

    A traditional gingerbread-style home in Waxahachie.

    Gingerbread home in Waxahachie
    Photo courtesy of Anita Brown
    A traditional gingerbread-style home in Waxahachie.
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    36 Hours in Granbury

    Enjoy a delightful weekend escape near Fort Worth in the tiny town of Granbury

    June Naylor
    Jun 17, 2016 | 10:30 am
    Enjoy a delightful weekend escape near Fort Worth in the tiny town of Granbury
    Photo by June Naylor
    The Inn on Lake Granbury will be hard to leave.

    We need quick getaways to recharge our batteries, and one of the easiest go-tos is Granbury. Less than an hour's drive southwest of Fort Worth (and around a four-hour drive from Houston), the Hood County seat offers a great dose of food and drink, fun places to poke around on the square, a lovely night's sleep, and sublime hints of Hill Country scenery.

    And if you haven't been lately, it's time to revisit. All you really need is just 36 hours to get the most out of your escape.

    Eating
    To fortify yourself for the traipsing around, make a lunch stop at Ketzler's, a terrific little German bistro anchoring one corner of the courthouse square. Dive into plates of freshly made bratwurst and knackwurst; excellent potato pancakes; a fabulous schnitzel with sides of warm red cabbage (hinting of red wine, cinnamon, and nutmeg); and kraut (with bacon, carraway, and apple), and marvel at how authentic the place is. Painted wood reliefs depicting Bavarian villages hang on the stone walls and German music plays on the sound system.

    While there, we eavesdropped on a young woman interviewing for a job — partially in German. She couldn't get over how much like her mom's homeland the restaurant feels.

    There's a lovely beer garden out back to enjoy any of several German brews, as well as local beer. A full bar is soon to be installed, as well.

    The dinner that must not be missed is a few doors down and upstairs at Eighteen Ninety Grille, Granbury's premier upscale dining spot. More elegant than we dared hope, this delightful surprise is a pleasure from start to finish. The food is fabulous because the restaurant owners snagged chef Michael Watkins from the popular Winslow's Wine Cafe in Fort Worth.

    We're already addicted to two of his appetizers: the Texas Trilogy, which wraps local chicken and quail inside smoked bacon and a little jalapeño, all skewered and grilled, and the seared ahi, sesame crusted and served in ruby slices over arugula, avocado, and radish in a ginger-soy dressing. New York strip, expertly cooked and given a wild mushroom treatment, is divine, as is the bodacious pork chop, served with a smoked pear chutney.

    The wine list is filled with good things, including a beautiful Fess Parker Pinot Noir. We like just hanging out here; the staff is welcoming, and there's warmth and comfort in the original rock walls. Watch for the restaurant's bar and lounge to open downstairs sometime in April.

    We can't ever head home from Granbury without a burger stop at Grump's, a decidedly casual spot out on Highway 377 with good grub and cold beer. Best bets are the bacon cheeseburger (pepper Jack, please) with grilled onion and green chilies, plus a side of fried pickles. It helps soak up all the brews we enjoy at the Saturday afternoon gathering at what's rapidly becoming the most notable brewery in Texas.

    Drinking
    At Revolver Brewing, several hundred people show up for the noon-3 party each Saturday afternoon. And what a show: You're clearly a regular if you bring your own camp chairs, or you arrive at 11:50 am if you want to snag one of the picnic tables scattered on the grounds. A local band plays on a stage, and everyone spreads out to enjoy the fresh air — and that beer.

    For the $10 admission (for everyone over 18, kids are free), you get the entertainment and a "tour," which is actually a 15-minute chat in the tank room with one of the very knowledgeable and entertaining brewers. He tells you how Revolver scored a major coup by recruiting brewmaster Grant Wood from Samuel Adams in Boston, and that tells you the source of the smarts for making sensational brews like the smash-hit Blood & Honey, Sidewinder, Ironhead IPA, and many more.

    Arrive before 2 pm, and your 10 bucks buys you four generous pours. After 2 pm, it's two generous pours. Either way, you get a nice Revolver pint glass to keep. There's always a food vendor onsite, selling meals to enjoy outside.

    Wine lovers, head out to Barking Rocks Winery, scarcely 10 minutes from downtown, where you could be greeted at the car by Cellar, the sweet winery dog, who just wants a little love. Inside, local legend/character Tiberia, the winemaker with just one name, and his staff pour wines at tastings on Saturday afternoon and on the first Friday evening of each month.

    Tiberia speaks our grape language, as we're not fond of sweet wines: His Roussane Reserve is a lovely oaky white, his rosé is slightly effervescent and perfect in sangria, and his Syrah is something we enjoy alone or with steaks. The grounds at Barking Rocks are lush and inviting, perfect for spreading out to listen to the live music on Friday evenings.

    As long as you're wandering, head just 20 minutes down the road to the new location of Eagle Mountain Farmhouse Cheese Co. Self-described "recovering lawyer" Dave Eagle began making extraordinary cheese in Granbury in 2010, immediately won some international awards, and the growing business demanded he expand his space.

    Now in a 1910 storefront in Lipan, his cheeses are hugely popular sellers at Central Market and at Scardello Artisan Cheese in Dallas, as well as restaurants like Ellerbe Fine Foods and Cafe Modern. While visiting, we can see the cheesemaking process, taste his Gouda-style cheeses, and — coming soon — enjoy all-organic ice cream he's making with the same local milk he uses for his cheeses.

    Walking the square
    The courthouse square in Granbury is one of the first in Texas, having undergone serious restoration and invigoration in the late 1970s and early 1980s. The limestone buildings remind of us those in Fredericksburg and other Hill Country towns, and each one framing the square and the very recently renovated courthouse holds a stash of retail and other diversions.

    We are most taken with some newer finds, including St. Helen's, a shop with cool things for the home, including candles and clocks and dinner table goods; Home Sweet Home, where we found cool flasks and great bedding; and Eighteen Ninety Marketplace, downstairs from the same-named restaurant, a shop reminding me of those in Napa, selling truly fabulous olive oils, vinegars, and spices.

    One of the biggest additions of sorts to the square is the Granbury Opera House, a fixture since the 1880s. Fallen on hard times, it was recently and magnificently restored, and a new board of directors has made the place wonderfully viable and relevant. Even if you don't see a show there — lots of Broadway-type shows, as well as tributes to Elvis, Rat Pack, and more — it's worth a stop just to admire the place.

    Slumber in style
    Granbury has a fine supply of B&Bs for nice overnights. We're utterly hooked on the Inn on Lake Granbury; there's just not a more luxurious, sumptuous option around.

    Inn owners Jim and Cathy see to every imaginable comfort, offer wine and substantial snacks in the afternoon, and serve a breakfast we dream about long after we're home. Our favorite digs are the lakeside suites, which give a good view of the water and the grounds. We've whiled away many happy hours in Adirondack chairs and on the wooden swing overlooking the lake, and beside the rock-lined saltwater swimming pool.

    Like us, you'll wish your getaway lasted several more days at this place.

    The Inn on Lake Granbury will be hard to leave.

    Inn at Lake Granbury
    Photo by June Naylor
    The Inn on Lake Granbury will be hard to leave.
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