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    Right in your backyard

    From hiking to chili to lion spotting: Six ways to make the most of Big BendNational Park

    Stephan Lorenz
    May 29, 2011 | 10:57 am
    • Expect the unexpected at the Terlingua International Chili Championship, locatedright outside Big Bend.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Wildlife watching is phenomenal in the park. Here, a mother bobcat watches overher offspring.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Chisos Mountains lie at the heart of the park, and offer some of the besthiking and wildlife watching in the lower 48 states. Casa Grande Peak is thesignature mountain easily seen from the basin campground and visitor center.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Rio Grande marks the international border between the U.S. and Mexico, andruns along the entire southern boundary of Big Bend National Park.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Peak baggers will enjoy tackling Emory Peak. Here, a hiker rejoices on top ofLost Mine Peak after a great day hike leading to some magnificent views.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Tighten those shoelaces and hit the trails. Big Bend National Park has hundredsof miles of hiking. Here, a hiker treads through the desert just below theChisos Mountains, toward one of several springs in the area.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • While sightings are extremely rare, mountain lions do live in Big Bend. Blackbears have wandered north from Mexico into the area, and are now thriving, withincreasing sightings in the mountains.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Big Bend harbors a huge variety of terrain, ranging from desert and badlands tolush mountain forest and springs. Sotol, seen in the foreground, is one of themost common plants in the desert.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Cattail Falls is a hidden oasis at the foot of the Chisos Mountains.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Pine forest thrives at the cooler elevations in the Chisos Mountains, where itis possible to drive from desert to forest in the matter of minutes.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • It’s as simple as turning down one of the many dirt roads, getting a campingpermit, and getting away from it all. This is wilderness camping at its finestin Big Bend.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Big Bend National Park, tucked deep in the west Texas desert, protects swaths of wild country, ranging from arid badlands to lush canyons. It remains one of the least visited national parks in the lower 48 states.

    No matter from what direction, the approach to Big Bend usually involves a long haul through some spectacularly empty country.

    Here are six ways to make the most of the long trip and a visit to this far-flung and unique region of Texas.

    Hike

    Big Bend National Park offers hundreds of miles of trails, ranging from quick day hikes ending at desert springs to calf-burning switchbacks into the high country.

    Peak baggers will enjoy the full day jaunt up Emory Peak — the highest point in the park at 7,825 feet. The trail starts in the Chisos Basin and winds through a juniper and oak woodland toward a dramatic finish on the granite summit, offering endless views all the way into Mexico.

    For a lazier day, try the short walk to hidden Cattails Falls, an oasis of cool pools, ancient trees, and ferns rarely seen in the desert.

    The backpacking opportunities are endless. My personal favorite is the rugged and remote Dodson Trail, reached by hiking out of the Chisos Mountains through Blue Creek Canyon. The trail snakes its way through badlands at the foot of the mountains for a dozen miles.

    In this case, what goes down must come up — if you want to see your parked car again, at least. A grueling six-hour ascent through remote Juniper Canyon will bring hikers back into the shaded mountains, and no one will ever forget the section affectionately named "the staircase."

    History

    The Big Bend area features several historic ranches, including old cattle enclosures, crumbling houses, and squeaking wind pumps. Turn at Santa Elena Junction towards Castolon, along the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive. The Chisos Mountains rise dramatically from the desert to the east, and arid badlands break the horizon to the west.

    Less than five miles down the road, a pullout marks the start of the trail leading to the Sam Neil Ranch. From the distance, the cluster of shrubs and small trees don't look like much, but going closer reveals a small oasis of cottonwood trees and dense vegetation. It’s a great place to learn about the early settlers of the region and get a break from the sun baking the surrounding desert.

    Next stop? The old building at the Homer Wilson Ranch, located on the east side of the road. Here, a rancher herded goats in nearby Blue Creek Canyon.

    The road continues through increasingly sparse countries of barren hills and reddish rock buttes, named for their distinctive shapes, like Elephant Butte and Mule Ears.

    The small store and visitor center at Castolon offer a good break and more information on the regions history.

    Several other historic sites lie scattered throughout the immense park, including old mining equipment, adobe houses, and pictographs left by Native Americans. It’s also possible to spot arrowheads in some areas.

    Wilderness Camp

    There are a number of developed campgrounds within the national park — one each at the Chisos Basin, Rio Grande Village, and a smaller one, Cottonwood, near Castolon.

    In addition, numerous backcountry sites in the mountains and desert offer an easy getaway. Miles of dirt road — mainly accessible with high clearance and four-wheel drive — allow visitors to seek solitude in the desert and enjoy unrivaled night skies.

    Due to the lack of cities and light pollution, Big Bend is great for stargazing. During clear and moonless nights, the sky explodes with stars.

    Within certain restrictions, campers can set up tents almost anywhere in the desert. With a set of sturdy boots, topographic maps, and good preparation (always think water in Big Bend) the adventurous can leave the trails behind and explore some of the less-trodden canyon and mountains, of which there are plenty.

    Wildlife Watch

    Don’t forget the camera, and better yet, bring a good pair of binoculars, too. Big Bend National Park is a haven for wildlife. It boasts the highest diversity of bird species of any national park — nearly 400 species have been found here. One of the best times of the year for spotting them is during the spring, when breeding and migrating birds create an exciting mix. But in truth, any season is rewarding.

    Due to the varied terrain and diversity of habitats, animals spotted during a morning in the mountains will be very different than critters visiting a desert spring at dusk.

    Signs throughout the park warn visitors about the presence of black bears and mountain lions. While encounters are rare, there is always a chance of seeing either of these mammals.

    Black bears have especially become a regular sight in the Chisos Mountains, while only a lucky few glimpse a mountain lion — though tracks can often be found along trails and near water.

    Other common mammals include the small Sierra del Carmen whitetail deer in the mountains, mule deer in the desert, jackrabbits and kangaroo rats at night, and the howl of coyotes.

    Reptiles and amphibians are also plentiful. The better spots to seek wildlife are the Chisos Mountains and the riparian woodlands around Rio Grande Village, either at dawn or dusk.

    Soak

    Geology is alive in Big Bend, and several hot springs attest to the region's volcanic past. Near the aptly named Hot Springs Canyon, scorching water bubbles from a hole into a small brick basin. This spot is one of the most popular springs in the park, and filled to the brim with soakers during peak season — especially around Thanksgiving, Christmas, and spring break.

    During mid-summer, the location is deserted, but anyone entering will be fried from the sun above and water below.

    On a cool winter evening, the thermal waters feel just right, and the pink cliffs of the distant Sierra del Carmen in Mexico reflect near-perfect sunsets. If you're staying longer, the moonrises are spectacular.

    Smaller springs further upstream see less traffic, but require some hiking and bushwhacking to reach.

    Chili

    Yes, chili. While technically not inside the national park, the quirky town of Terlingua — a 30-minute drive to the west — hosts one of the largest chili festivals anywhere.

    The first weekend of every November, hundreds of people flock to several dusty spots in the desert, where makeshift towns of tents, trailers, and stages spring to life. Pots and pots of chili are cooked, while bowl after bowl is consumed.

    There are lots of games, food stands, parties, and yes, some places also have wet T-shirt contests to keep the chili flowing.

    If chili mania isn't your taste, visitors can also enjoy a chili burger at most restaurants in Terlingua — except at the unique La Kiva, a semi-subterranean eating experience with slow service, but lots of fun.

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    Texas getaways

    6 best Hill Country and San Antonio hotels for a weekend getaway

    Katherine Stinson
    Sep 16, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Monarch Hotel San Antonio guest room
    Photo courtesy of Monarch Hotel website
    The new Monarch Hotel has opened near the iconic Hemisfair.

    The San Antonio area is buzzing with a number of freshly renovated hotels and brand-new accommodations that are beckoning for a weekend getaway. Head west for about three hours from Houston and settle into a romantic Hill Country retreat or check into a hip stay in the heart of the Alamo City.

    From romantic Hill Country havens to buzzy downtown hotels that have just opened their doors, here are our top picks for a chic San Antonio stay this fall.

    The Gunter Hotel
    This downtown San Antonio hotel’s multimillion-dollar renovation wasn’t just about adding fancy new furniture; it was about honoring the property’s storied history. Inspired by Robert Johnson's history-making stay in Room 414, the Gunter serves as a love letter to San Antonio’s music heritage. Add elegant rooms and suites, refined American fare at Jots, the city’s first Paris Baguette location, and a street-level speakeasy, and you've got more than enough excuses to book a stay.

    The Monarch Hotel
    A new kid on the block, this Hemisfair hotel takes flight from the second you step into the lobby. But the snazzy design is second to the dining. Grab a morning pastry at the Nectarie Café, splurge on steaks at Oak & Amber, then have after-dinner drinks underneath the butterfly wing eaves of Alateo. Theme continues outdoors with the property’s La Mariposa sculpture — the perfect backdrop for a vacation selfie.

    The InterContinental Hotel San Antonio Riverwalk
    This underrated property scores high marks with those who seek the buzz of the city core. Located within walking distance of multiple popular restaurants and bars, the hotel itself also has a dining standout with Cavalier, offering a globally-inspired menu of coq au vin, picanha, short rib, lamb shank, and more. The social set will want to check out its frequent wellness events and movie nights and pony up for a suite with access to the posh Club InterContinental.

    The Ranch Motel
    During the day, this Broadway spot’s pool is home base for the see-and-be-seen crowd, with snacks served by some of Alamo City’s hottest pop-ups. After the sun sets, it feels even more exclusive thanks to a dimly lit upstairs mezcal lounge and showers stocked with Le Labo products.

    Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Villas Schedule a couple's massage at Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Villas.Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Villas/ Facebook

    Hyatt Regency Hill Country Resort & Villas
    This Hill Country retreat is located near SeaWorld San Antonio, but don’t waste a minute finding Nemo. Instead, head to the crystal lagoon for some splashy fun, get a massage at the spa, and share some charcuterie at Antlers Lodge. After a full day, sink into the bed outfitted with luxurious linens — part of a massive $100 million renovation.

    JW Marriott Hill Country Resort
    This secluded hideaway near Stone Oak sprawls out on 600 acres. Every type of weekend warrior will find something to explore — from multiple restaurants for foodies to a 9-acre waterpark for adventurers and a 36-hole golf course. Later in the year, snuggle up and enjoy some frosty holiday activations.

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