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    Adventure Travel

    Insider's guide to Machu Picchu: Unforgettable trek to Lost City of the Incas is simple yet luxurious

    Kristy Alpert
    Kristy Alpert
    Mar 10, 2013 | 11:46 am

    It’s been more than 10 years since my dad first asked me to take a father-daughter trip to Machu Picchu in Peru.

    At the time, the high school version of me was more concerned about spending spring break with friends by Lake Lewisville and experimenting with varying colors of red and orange hair dye in an attempt to “capture the sunset” with my hair. It is a phase I fortunately grew out of before graduating on to the real world, leaving empty bottles of Orange Kicker and my metal Dick Tracy lunchbox to gather dust in my embarrassingly ill-informed-of-what’s-cool past.

    Now, in my late 20s with a hair color as natural as my passion for adventure, I finally had the opportunity to make the trip with my dad. Starting off in Lima, we spent the night at the luxurious Miraflores Park Hotel before making the trek out to Cuzco and the little mountain village of Aguas Calientes, where the journey to the ruins began.

    Aguas Calientes may be small, but the village offers everything from fine dining and nightlife to natural hot springs and an artisan market.

    Where to stay/eat
    Unless you’re camping out in tents along the Inca Trail (more power to you during the rainy season of Peru), the town of Aguas Calientes offers the perfect home base for vacationers preparing to experience the enigmatic ruins of Machu Picchu.

    It's only accessible by train, and I highly recommend PeruRail’s Vistadome or Hiram Bingham trains for a truly remarkable experience of food, entertainment and luxury as you glide along some of the Andes most breathtaking scenery. Aguas Calientes may be small, but the village offers everything from fine dining and nightlife to natural hot springs and an artisan market.

    Without question, the Inkaterra Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel is the best hotel in the area, offering an organic experience that truly captures the sacred energy of the region. The hotel is located only a short walk from the train station, and it is set amid the tranquil sounds of the rushing Vilcanota River (a small section of the mighty Urubamba River) and in the terraced hills of this Andean village.

    The hotel boasts 85 luxury cottages with private terraces and handmade alpaca blankets with woodburning fireplaces and opulent spa-worthy amenities. The resort is situated on 12 secluded acres and offers a spectacular spa and guided excursions ranging from twilight walk rituals to making your own tea at the onsite working tea plantation.

    The dining room at this resort can compete with the finest dining establishments around the world and attracts hotel guests, locals and vacationers looking to splurge on a decadent meal.

    Insider tip: Try to get a table in Ismael’s waiting range, and don’t miss the Rocotto Relleno or the chef’s upscale version of the local delicacy Cuy (guinea pig).

    For even better views of the ruins, reserve one of the 400-daily-alloted spots to hike up Huayna Picchu, a peak that rises more than 360 meters higher than Machu Picchu.

    What to do
    It’s fairly obvious what draws most people to this region of the world. Although the area is stunning and boasts everything from an authentic native craft market to natural hot springs and plenty of hiking trails, the star of this show is without a doubt the Lost City of the Incas.

    Machu Picchu stands at 2,430 meters above sea level in a tropical mountain forest, and it is one of the most important cultural sites in Latin America. Although the purpose for this ancient Inca Empire site is still widely debated, many archeologists believe the citadel was built as an estate for the Inca emperor Pachacuti in the mid 1400s.

    The site was known locally but wasn’t actually discovered by the outside world until 1911 by Yale professor Hiram Bingham. Since then, Machu Picchu has become a UNESCO World Heritage site and a very prominent tourist attraction.

    A 30-minute bus ride from Aguas Calientes or a light two-hour hike, it’s here visitors can soak in the spiritual energy of this mystic Inca creation with its llama-maintained terraces and majestically grand walls surrounding popular sites like the Intihuatana (Sun Dial), the Sacred Plaza and the Temple of the Sun.

    For even better views of the ruins, reserve one of the 400-daily-alloted spots to hike up Huayna Picchu, a peak that rises more than 360 meters higher than Machu Picchu.

    The hike is pretty treacherous and is not for the faint of heart, with slippery stone steps, a small cave and steel cables all making for an exciting one-hour climb to the top, where legend has it the Inca’s high priest would make the same trek every morning before sunrise with a small group to signal the coming of the new day.

    Insider tip: Residents of Cuzco are allowed free entrance to the ruins on Sundays, so avoid the crowds by planning your travels to Machu Picchu on Monday through Saturday.

    Machu Pichu

    Machu Picchu
    Photo courtesy of Cusco Tourism
    Machu Pichu
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    The Good Life

    No flutes, please! The Insiders Guide to champagne sipping at its very best

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Apr 8, 2013 | 6:00 am
    No flutes, please! The Insiders Guide to champagne sipping at its very best
    Photo courtesy of Moet & Chandon
    Elise Losfelt, oenologist for Moët & Chandon

    It's a tough job, but someone had to do it.

    Actually, when the folks behind the Moët & Chandon label invited me to a champagne tasting at the Hotel Granduca recently, I jumped at the opportunity.

    And I learned a lot.

    For starters, NEVER drink champagne from a narrow flute. Instead, the bubbly should be sipped from a white wine glass, says Moët expert Elise Losfelt, who is on a tour of major U.S. cities to tout the release of several vintage champagnes.

    For starters, NEVER drink champagne from a narrow flute. Instead, the bubbly should be sipped from a white wine glass, says Moet expert Elise Losfelt.

    "It's really better," Losfelt says, because the larger opening allows the champagne to breath and lets the drinker enjoy the full aroma and taste.

    The champagne should be chilled at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius (about 46-50 degrees Fahrenheit). It's better for the champagne to be too cold than too warm, Losfelt insists, because you can always warm it up by holding the glass in your hand. But in most cases, you want to hold the glass by the stem.

    Swirl the champagne to release the aromatic molecules — "the most heavy ones need to be helped a little bit," Losfelt explains — and even though there's a temptation to take a big gulp, instead take a small sip, to savor the flavors.

    "Feel the colors in your mouth," she instructs me at one point, just as I am tasting my first sip.

    In recent years, American tastes for a drier champagne have come more in line with the rest of the world. The best-selling Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial champagne sold in the United States has been reconstituted, with less sugar (9 grams per liter compared to the former 13 grams), and the response has been positive.

    "It shows people know more about the character (of the champagne)," says Losfelt, who is only 27 but is a sixth-generation winemaker whose family vineyard is in Gres de Montpellier. "When there's less sweetness, the taste is more precise."

    Special champagnes

    As the tasting continued, Losfelt uncorked several special champagnes. First came a bottle of the 2004 Grand Vintage, which is the new release of the house and its 70th vintage champagne. It retails for around $60 a bottle. "It's something rare, original and unique," she says. "The production is really small."

    Losfelt picks the words "sleek, elegant and graceful" for the 2004 Grand Vintage because the growing season that year was a good one, with a somewhat dry spring followed by early summer rains and warm temperatures. With a hint of toastiness and lemony notes, the bubbly light yellow champagne is a perfect complement to scallops, lobster, sea bass, poultry and yellow gold vegetables.

    One Houston guest was so pleased with the pairing that he purchased 12 cases of the champagne.

    At a Champagne Pairing Dinner at the Tasting Room Uptown Park the night before, the main course included pan seared Chilean sea bass with cauliflower subise and a tropical fruit salsa, paired with a Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2004. One Houston guest was so pleased with the pairing that he purchased 12 cases of the champagne.

    Next, Losfelt uncorked a 1993 Grand Vintage to showcase what a difference a decade makes. It retails for $140 a bottle, and has just been re-released. It has some of the same characteristics of the 2004 Grand Vintage, since the harvest seasons were similar, but, obviously, a darker color and stronger aroma from the additional aging.

    It pairs well with a chicken breast with orange sauce or spiced honey-seared duck and dark crunchy rice to really bring out the flavors.

    As a special treat, Losfelt then brought out a 1973 Grand Vintage champagne that is so rare that it's not for sale. It's also sometimes hard to find a bottle that's good given the time that has passed— the first bottle was corked (the champagne came in contact with a contaminated cork during the aging process) so another was brought out — and, as I sipped it, I decided I liked the 1993 Grand Vintage better.

    That's pretty much heresy in champagne circles, although Losfelt was far too polite to tell me I was an idiot. "I love the '73 for its personality," she said.

    But then, as she had done throughout the tasting, she was was careful not to swallow the champagne, instead demurely spitting it into a silver cup.

    I, on the other hand, thought it was a shame to waste any of the precious elixir. So I eschewed the rules of a champagne tasting, and drank every last drop.

    Elise Losfelt, oenologist for Moët & Chandon

    Elise Losfelt, Oenologist, Moet & Chandon
    Photo courtesy of Moet & Chandon
    Elise Losfelt, oenologist for Moët & Chandon
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