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    The Good Life

    No flutes, please! The Insiders Guide to champagne sipping at its very best

    Clifford Pugh
    By Clifford Pugh
    Apr 8, 2013 | 6:00 am

    It's a tough job, but someone had to do it.

    Actually, when the folks behind the Moët & Chandon label invited me to a champagne tasting at the Hotel Granduca recently, I jumped at the opportunity.

    And I learned a lot.

    For starters, NEVER drink champagne from a narrow flute. Instead, the bubbly should be sipped from a white wine glass, says Moët expert Elise Losfelt, who is on a tour of major U.S. cities to tout the release of several vintage champagnes.

    For starters, NEVER drink champagne from a narrow flute. Instead, the bubbly should be sipped from a white wine glass, says Moet expert Elise Losfelt.

    "It's really better," Losfelt says, because the larger opening allows the champagne to breath and lets the drinker enjoy the full aroma and taste.

    The champagne should be chilled at around 8 to 10 degrees Celsius (about 46-50 degrees Fahrenheit). It's better for the champagne to be too cold than too warm, Losfelt insists, because you can always warm it up by holding the glass in your hand. But in most cases, you want to hold the glass by the stem.

    Swirl the champagne to release the aromatic molecules — "the most heavy ones need to be helped a little bit," Losfelt explains — and even though there's a temptation to take a big gulp, instead take a small sip, to savor the flavors.

    "Feel the colors in your mouth," she instructs me at one point, just as I am tasting my first sip.

    In recent years, American tastes for a drier champagne have come more in line with the rest of the world. The best-selling Moët & Chandon Brut Imperial champagne sold in the United States has been reconstituted, with less sugar (9 grams per liter compared to the former 13 grams), and the response has been positive.

    "It shows people know more about the character (of the champagne)," says Losfelt, who is only 27 but is a sixth-generation winemaker whose family vineyard is in Gres de Montpellier. "When there's less sweetness, the taste is more precise."

    Special champagnes

    As the tasting continued, Losfelt uncorked several special champagnes. First came a bottle of the 2004 Grand Vintage, which is the new release of the house and its 70th vintage champagne. It retails for around $60 a bottle. "It's something rare, original and unique," she says. "The production is really small."

    Losfelt picks the words "sleek, elegant and graceful" for the 2004 Grand Vintage because the growing season that year was a good one, with a somewhat dry spring followed by early summer rains and warm temperatures. With a hint of toastiness and lemony notes, the bubbly light yellow champagne is a perfect complement to scallops, lobster, sea bass, poultry and yellow gold vegetables.

    One Houston guest was so pleased with the pairing that he purchased 12 cases of the champagne.

    At a Champagne Pairing Dinner at the Tasting Room Uptown Park the night before, the main course included pan seared Chilean sea bass with cauliflower subise and a tropical fruit salsa, paired with a Moët & Chandon Grand Vintage 2004. One Houston guest was so pleased with the pairing that he purchased 12 cases of the champagne.

    Next, Losfelt uncorked a 1993 Grand Vintage to showcase what a difference a decade makes. It retails for $140 a bottle, and has just been re-released. It has some of the same characteristics of the 2004 Grand Vintage, since the harvest seasons were similar, but, obviously, a darker color and stronger aroma from the additional aging.

    It pairs well with a chicken breast with orange sauce or spiced honey-seared duck and dark crunchy rice to really bring out the flavors.

    As a special treat, Losfelt then brought out a 1973 Grand Vintage champagne that is so rare that it's not for sale. It's also sometimes hard to find a bottle that's good given the time that has passed— the first bottle was corked (the champagne came in contact with a contaminated cork during the aging process) so another was brought out — and, as I sipped it, I decided I liked the 1993 Grand Vintage better.

    That's pretty much heresy in champagne circles, although Losfelt was far too polite to tell me I was an idiot. "I love the '73 for its personality," she said.

    But then, as she had done throughout the tasting, she was was careful not to swallow the champagne, instead demurely spitting it into a silver cup.

    I, on the other hand, thought it was a shame to waste any of the precious elixir. So I eschewed the rules of a champagne tasting, and drank every last drop.

    Elise Losfelt, oenologist for Moët & Chandon

    Elise Losfelt, Oenologist, Moet & Chandon
    Photo courtesy of Moet & Chandon
    Elise Losfelt, oenologist for Moët & Chandon
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    Soup spoon season

    10 Houston chefs share 15 top soups that offer comfort and sustenance

    Brianna McClane
    Nov 12, 2026 | 2:30 pm
    Phanh Ky Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang,
    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy
    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

    Happy soup season to all who celebrate. The weather has finally dipped low enough in Houston that diners can enjoy a hearty bowl of soup without breaking a sweat. With so many delicious selections at Houston restaurants, we turned to Houston's chef and other restaurant industry experts to find out which brothy creations are worth seeking out.

    The only rule? No one could nominate a soup from their own restaurant. Here’s what they had to say.

    Dana East, line cook, Uchi Houston

    To Dana East of Uchi Houston, the caldo de res at Ruchi Mexican Grille’s Reliant Stadium location “feels like home to me… Even though I’m not Mexican.”

    “The caldo de res at that specific Ruchi's tastes like it was made in a Mexican grandmother's kitchen, or like soups that I would eat for family meal that kitchens I work in would make when everybody is sick during the winter,” she says.

    East also recommends the Bogotano at Mi Pueblito, a soup made with three kinds of potatoes that she says “imbue a smoky flavor in it that is borderline addictive.”

    “I could eat an entire pot of that stuff,” she says. “They serve it with fresh cream and capers that take it to the next level.”

    Garrett Rice, owner, Bayou Butchers

    The cream of crab soup at Loch Bar is a highlight that Garrett Rice of Bayou Butchers looks forward to after work.

    “It’s a simple dish that lets a really good ingredient shine, and they certainly don’t shy away from the crab in true Baltimore fashion,” Rice says. “With Loch Bar’s kitchen open late, I can always count on a cup of crab soup waiting for me after a long shift.”

    German Mosquera, executive chef, Long Weekend

    When German Mosquera of Long Weekend wants ramen, he heads to Mensho, the Japan-based chain that just opened its second Houston-area location on the border of River Oaks and Montrose.

    “For me, it’s all about the broth,” he says. “Mensho’s tori paitan has a rich, velvety texture and incredible umami flavor from start to finish. The perfectly jammy egg adds another layer of richness that keeps me coming back. I also love the intimate Tokyo-style counter seating. It makes for an authentic ramen experience.”

    Kerry Pauly, owner, KP’s Kitchen

    The matzo ball soup at Kenny and Ziggy’s is “in a league of its own,” according to Kerry Pauly of KP’s Kitchen. He describes it as “rich, flavorful, and pure comfort whether you’re sick or feeling great.”

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner, Alora

    “My favorite go-to spot for soup has always been Phanh Ky,” says Louis Lamson Quy of Alora, a Peruvian-Vietnamese fusion restaurant in Montrose. “They specialize in hủ tiếu nam vang, a noodle dish with roots tracing back to Teochew Chinese immigrants in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It’s also one of the most popular noodle dishes in my hometown, Saigon, so it always feels a little like home to me.

    “To me, Phanh Ky is one of the OGs in the game,” he adds. “I first tried it when I moved to Houston nine years ago, and I’ve been coming back ever since. There’s just something comforting about a place that stays consistent after all these years.”

    Maria Christie, operator and general manager, Christie’s Seafood and Steaks

    “I love, love the lemon chicken soup at Harry’s,” says Maria Christie of Christie’s Seafood and Steaks. "For me the soup at Harry’s reminds me of the way my mom would make the lemon soup.”

    “And the lentil soup (at Anonymous Cafe) is really hearty and it just reminds me of cold winter days (whenever we get those in Houston!),” she adds. “It’s absolutely perfect because it has a hint of tomato in it. Deeeelicious!”

    Her sister, Kathy Christie, who serves as Christie's director of catering, is a fan of Little Pappasito's chicken tortilla soup. “Whenever you are under the weather, it totally hits the spot,” Kathy says. She adds extra lime to hers.

    Nicole Routhier, partner and culinary ambassador, Le Colonial

    The bun bo hue at Pho Quynh, a small Vietnamese restaurant located inside 99 Ranch Market, is a year round must for Nicole Routhier of Le Colonial.

    “Their spicy, deeply flavorful broth is super comforting and among the best in town. The chef is generous with the noodles and toppings of tender beef brisket, pork shank, gio Hue (steamed pork sausage with black peppercorns), and blood pudding. The soup comes with a side of shaved cabbage, crunchy bean sprouts, Vietnamese mint (rau ram), and a wedge of lime to be added to the soup as you eat. Two tiny containers of fermented shrimp sauce (mam tom) and spicy chili oil are also provided so you can add even more umami to the soup,” Routhier says. “Bun bo hue is a full meal on its own, and my idea of heaven in a bowl.”

    Oscar Juarez, founder and owner, Make It Nice Hospitality

    The pozole verde at Cuchara is a simple and flavorful dish that private chef Oscar Juarez of Make It Nice Hospitality says he would recommend to anyone.

    “The broth has a nice balance of richness and acidity, and it’s just one of those dishes that’s comforting without being too heavy,” Juarez says. “Growing up with Mexican food, I have a real appreciation for dishes like this.”

    Rafael Nasr, founder, Craft Pita

    Rafael Nasr of Craft Pita says he has “a burning passion for North China’s sizzling rice soup.”

    He describes it as an intensely flavored, crystal-clear broth with bits of pork and tiny shrimp to fill you up.

    “The carrot, napa cabbage, and wood ear mushrooms add umami and I am convinced have healing powers,” he says. “The flash fried rice adds texture and flavor at the same time and whether served table side or at home provide dinner and a show. I eat this soup and talk about it more than any soup in Houston.”

    Nasr’s pro tip: Add a bit of soy sauce and lots of North China’s housemade green chili oil to the soup.

    Ziggy Gruber, chef and owner, Kenny & Ziggy’s

    Ziggy Gruber of Kenny & Ziggy’s has a couple of favorite soups in town, which isn’t surprising since his own deli is known for its bowl selection. Among his favorites is the clam chowder at Capital Grille, which he says captures the true flavor of the East Coast with plenty of clams and just the right amount of thyme.

    He also loves the French onion soup at Etoile Cuisine et Bar.

    “The stock is very rich and the onions are extracted so the flavor is permeated throughout the soup. I like that it has multiple croutons rather than one crouton in the soup,” he says. “And then the cheese on top!”

    Another top pick for Ziggy is the tortilla soup at Grace’s.“It is complicated in such a good way, with the crunchy bits of tortillas and chicken skin, with the coolness of the avocado, and it has just the right amount of spice,” he says.

    Phanh Ky H\u1ee7 Ti\u1ebfu Nam Vang,

    Photo by Louis Lamson Quy

    Louis Lamson Quy, co-owner of Alora, is a loyal diner at Phanh Ky thanks to its Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang, which reminds him of his hometown, Saigon.

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