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    Leave your Tevas at home

    Grab a tube (or canoe), dodge the jaguars, do a nutty, fishy festival in theBelize rainforest

    Stephan Lorenz
    Feb 26, 2011 | 1:24 pm
    • True to rainforest, Cockscomb Basin has numerous waterfalls with pools to cooloff after a sweaty jungle hike.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Belize invites you to explore. Beyond the marketed canopy walk of tourist areas,we found this sketchy hanging bridge in a small national park in the south.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • The Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Preserve is one of the few places in the world wherethese elusive cats are thriving.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Canoeing offers the greatest chance for solitude and wildlife spotting atCrooked Tree, where flooded forests and narrow creeks invite long paddles.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Howler monkeys are a common sight and sound in Belizean rainforests.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Cool streams are the ideal places to hop in a tube and escape the heat.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Healthy rainforest harbors a plethora of life.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Remote and wild stretches of Belizean rainforest still harbor magnificentwildlife, like the harpy eagle.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Accommodations at Cockscomb Basin Reserve are simple but adequate, and blendinto the rainforest.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    Finally, we found ourselves in the rainforests of Belize.

    But this wasn’t your beer-transporting weir of Texas Hill Country tubing fame. There were plenty of overhanging snags here in Belize, waiting to snatch the reckless, with a few rapids for the pulse and throbbing jungle pressing in on all sides.

    The rental fee for a tube was just a dollar — good all day. We just had to hike back up river for another hour-long run.

    Along the left bank, a snake slithered into the water and swam gracefully upstream, just far enough away to make it impossible to determine whether it was venomous or not.

    On the right bank, something large rustled in a tangle of vines, just out of sight to tell whether it, too, was dangerous or not.

    After 15 minutes of this, I just relaxed, folding at the hips into my tube, bobbed through some ripples and watched the bright tropical sun play hide-and-seek in the canopy.

     Float through the lair of the jaguar

    Whose idea was it to have tubes for rent in a jaguar preserve anyway?

    Well, after our first run, it made total sense.

     Belize’s rainforests are sweltering places, but a clear, cool stream ran through the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary. And to me, this was the perfect way to blend in — passively floating along, getting up close to a plethora of wildlife.

    The Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary in southern Belize is the only jaguar reserve in the world, and yes, it is working. About 200 of these elusive spotted cats roam the mountains and forest here — apparently the highest density in the world. The chances of seeing one in the wild are slim, but I heard them grunt almost every night I spent at the reserve, at least.

    Cockscomb Basin offers relatively easy access to a truly remote area. A short taxi ride along a rutted strip of dirt from Maya Center village, located along the Southern Highway, brings visitors to the modest headquarters. Accommodations vary from tent camping to simple cabins.

    By the third run, tubing the South Stann Creek, the jungle had lost its menacing feel, and we splashed water on our faces as we leisurely spun midstream.

    Miles of trail leave from here and crisscross the rainforest, ranging from 15-minute walks to arduous multi-day treks that lead into the nearby mountains.

    For now, we were happy drifting along.

     Don’t sleep yet, and look out for the small stuff

    One of the most thrilling ways to experience the rainforest is at night.

    At Cockscomb Basin, local park rangers can arrange night hikes. Or simply load fresh batteries into a powerful flashlight, put on sturdy boots and wander down a trail to see if there's any eyeshine around the corner.

    While many animals, especially large mammals, are nocturnal, don’t expect a parade of glowing retinas floating through the jungle gloom — these animals are shy.

    (One of the local rangers explained to us that an especially fanatic wildlife watcher had spent three nights sitting in a tree until spotting an ocelot, a small wild cat that tends to be the most common species.)

    Instead, pay close attention to small things. The tiny eyeshine of hundreds of spiders will most likely be commuting along the trail. Frogs become vociferous at night, and after rain, the din of chirps, clicks and grunts can be deafening. Snakes are also quite active and the majority are harmless, so use common sense.

    And please, no walking around in Teva sandals!

    But even if wandering around a strange jungle at night is not on your to-do list, it's possible to enjoy the sounds from the safety of the spacious porch attached to the preserve’s bunkhouse.

     Get crooked, and party with the nuts and the fish

    But there aren't just animals in the rainforest.

     Crooked Tree is a village of clapboard houses with its windows thrown open to humid breezes. It’s an island floating in a lagoon during the rainy season, and dry turf in a swamp during the rest of the year.

    Yards of rank grass and ponds grade into thickets, turning into a wild mixture of pine and rainforest just beyond houses. Flocks of chickens mingle with wild birds along the lagoon’s shoreline, and gnarled limbs of ancient cashew trees throw thick lines of shade over the entire tumult.

    The best time to visit Crooked Tree is during the first weekend in May, when the whole village partakes in celebrating the annual cashew harvest.

    We missed the Cashew Festival. But one Sunday morning in March, we woke up in the middle of the new Tilapia Festival.

    A flea market had sprung up in a clearing ringed by cashew trees, and pickups loaded down with wares or people kept streaming in and out of the village along the narrow dirt road.

    That evening, with the heat of the day still clinging to us, we wandered over to a dozen stands all grilling tilapia, and ate some of the best fish we ever had. Drum beats flowed out over the water, inviting us to dance.

    During the days that aren't filled with festivals, you can explore the complex system of lagoons, swamplands and creeks by boat tours or canoe. We lugged a scratched-up canoe from the Bird’s Eye View Lodge toward the water and started paddling. We spent hours following narrow channels and crossing expanses of shallow water.

    On days like these, I'd suggest you add sunscreen, water, a spare paddle and map to your arsenal of essential gear.

     Walk on, Annie, and get your gun

    We'd seen so much, but we still wanted more rainforest.

    The sign had been pretty clear — "Rio Frio Cave to the right." We followed a wide gravel road into the hills for a mile or two, until we reached the narrow mouth of a cave just off the road.

    We clambered down some muddy limestone and squeezed into a small chamber. It took less than five minutes of spelunking to realize that the “passageways” weren’t going anywhere.

    A bit disappointed and confused as to all the hype, we stuffed our head lamps back into our backpacks and walked back to the campground of the forestry station at Douglas da Silva.

    Lesson learned: Sometimes, it’s important to walk to the end of the road.

    It was two years later on another trip to the area that I realized my grave mistake. There is, indeed a Rio Frio Cave — a spectacular natural arch studded with 10-foot stalactites and cold crystalline waters gurgling underground. I don’t even think the slippery muddy hole on the left of the road has a name.

    While exploring the area further, we found ourselves on a narrow trail winding uphill past enormous trees. Around a bend, we met another group, including a guide, two tourists and a park ranger in camouflage brandishing an automatic weapon. (Their escort, I guess.)

    We exchanged the usual friendly hellos and continued on separate ways, one question in my head: Do we need an armed guard? I never figured out what the threat was, but I might recommend checking for safety alerts if you're if traveling to the area.

     A thousand feet down

    Another worthwhile stop in the Pine Ridge Mountains — no guard required — is the aptly named Thousand-Foot Falls, the largest waterfall in Central America.

    A thin ribbon of water tumbles from a forest-clad plateau and plummets more than 1,500 feet to a refreshing pool. The hike to the bottom of the falls is challenging, but the sight from a viewpoint overlooking the gorge and falls in their entire length is breathtaking.

    These places are just scratching the surface of Belize’s mountains and jungles. With a population of only 350,000 people in a country roughly the same size as New Hampshire, there are lots of uncharted spots on the map waiting to be discovered.

    Happy explorations!

     Editor's note: This is the third story in a three-part series on Stephan Lorenz's Belize adventures. Don't forget to read part one — "Batted bats, fried lizards and of course Mayan ruins — all in a Belize day," and part two — "Swimming with the sharks & some real danger (those giant snapping sea turtles) in Belize."
     

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    2025 world's best awards

    6 Houston hotels ranked with the best in the world by Travel + Leisure

    Amber Heckler
    Jul 8, 2025 | 2:30 pm
    The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa
    Photo courtesy of The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa
    The Houstonian is back on top as the best resort in Texas.

    Several renowned Houston hotels and resorts were just declared the best in the world by Travel + Leisure readers, according to the publication's annual World's Best Awards.

    The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa was honored as the No. 1 best resort in Texas, while the prestigious Post Oak Hotel ranked as the No. 7 best hotel in the nation. Among T+L's list of the 15 best hotels in Texas, four more distinguished Houston properties made the cut.

    Every year, Travel + Leisure surveys its readers to determine the ultimate travel experiences around the world, which include the top hotels, resorts, travel destinations, and more. The 2025 survey had more than 180,000 responses from T+L readers with over 657,000 votes across 8,700 accommodations, cruise lines, and other properties.

    The Houstonian Hotel reclaimed the top spot for 2025 after previously slipping into No. 4 in 2024. The publication celebrated this "serene sanctuary" for its numerous sports and fitness activities, plus its rejuvenating 26,500-square-foot spa, pool, and jacuzzi. The resort's location next to Memorial Park also provides guests with the feeling that they've escaped the hustle and bustle of the city.

     The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa “The staff treats you like you are a long-awaited family member," said a T+L reader.Photo courtesy of The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa

    "Resort guests receive complimentary access to the fitness club, which has dedicated spaces for a myriad of sports, including nine tennis courts, a shaded jogging trail, an indoor track, and a lap pool," the report said. "On top of the unbeatable facilities and location, the Houstonian’s memorable hospitality had our voters eager for repeat visits."

    In a press release, general manager Steve Fronterhouse said the entire Houstonian team was honored to receive the worldwide recognition.

    "To be named the best resort in Texas by the discerning readers of Travel + Leisure is not just a reflection of our 27 acres and amenities; it’s recognition of the Southern hospitality and warmth our staff delivers every day," he said. "We are grateful to all of our guests who continue to make The Houstonian their home away from home.”

    The full list of best Texas resorts, in order, are:

    • The Houstonian Hotel, Club & Spa, Houston
    • Omni PGA Frisco Resort & Spa, Frisco
    • JW Marriott San Antonio Hill Country Resort & Spa, San Antonio
    • Omni Barton Creek Resort & Spa, Austin
    • Gaylord Texan Resort & Convention Center, Grapevine
    Best hotels in the U.S.
    In addition to being ranked among the top 10 best hotels in the U.S., The Post Oak Hotel was also hailed as the No. 1 best hotel in Houston. The hotel succeeds at providing guests with a flawless level of service and accommodations, while its on-site restaurants and bars add to the overall opulence of the property's amenities.

    "And naturally, there's a world-class spa on site and a Rolls‑Royce showroom in case you need to pick up a new ride," the report said.

     The Post Oak Hotel Stay in style at The Post Oak Hotel.  Photo courtesy of The Post Oak Hotel  

    A T+L reader said The Spa at The Post Oak Hotel is "a destination in itself" and noted that guests could still have a memorable experience in Houston even if they never step foot off the 700,000-square-foot premises. But if guests did choose to explore everything the city has to offer, the hotel provides an over-the-top travel method.

    "There is a rooftop helipad so that you don't even have to sit in Houston traffic if you don't want to," the reader said.

    The full list of Houston winning hotels, in order, are:

    • No. 1 – The Post Oak Hotel at Uptown Houston
    • No. 2 – Hotel ZaZa
    • No. 3 – Four Seasons Hotel Houston
    • No. 4 – JW Marriott Houston Downtown
    • No. 5 – Hilton Americas-Housto

    Other Texas awards
    San Antonio's Hotel Emma and Fort Worth's Bowie House, Auberge Resorts Collection were the only two other Texas properties to earn acclaim in T+L's list of the "15 Best City Hotels in the U.S."

    San Antonio was also deemed one of the best U.S. travel destinations in 2025, ranking 12th out of 15 total cities.

    In a release, Travel + Leisure editor in chief Jacqui Gifford said the 2025 World's Best Awards "reflect a travel landscape in motion."

    "From a high-desert city in the American Southwest to a quiet Greek island, our readers are seeking depth, character, and a strong sense of place," Gifford said. "We're thrilled to honor the hotels, destinations, and travel companies that are delivering those transformative experiences."

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