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    The high life

    Playing poison Frogger & bumping a Baird's Tapir on Costa Rica’s Osa Peninsula

    Stephan Lorenz
    Jan 15, 2011 | 1:04 pm
    • Nights are filled with sounds of the rainforest, especially frogs, which can bedeafening after rains. The oversized marine toad can often be found along trailsjust after dark.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Dense rainforest backs the beach in Corcovado National Park, one of the largestand best preserved areas in Central America.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • A view of the Rio Tigre on the Osa Peninsula.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Not easy to spot, one of the famous fer-de-lance waits for a meal along a creek.Yes, these snakes are very venomous, but encounters are rare. The Osa Peninsulahas one of the most accessible rainforests anywhere, and even mosquitoes arerelatively scarce.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Hundreds of streams pour cool and clear out of the mountains, which reach up to3,000 feet.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Among the colorful wildlife, several hundred species of birds call the OsaPeninsula home, like this Blue-crowned Motmot.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Primary rainforest is a mix of tangled green and immense, 100-year-old trees.The forest between the small village of Dos Brazos and Carate is some of themost dramatic.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Locally known as "the Jesus Christ lizards," the basilisk is often seen runningacross water.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz
    • Sloths are a common animal in the Osa Peninsula, but seeing one move is prettyrare. Here, a three-toed sloth is cruising.
      Photo by Stephan Lorenz

    In some parts of the world, there literally isn’t any space between the black sand beach, waves battered by the cool Pacific, and the herbaceous riot of lowland rainforests rolling tangled, damp, and exuberant down the zigzag mountains.

    In fact, there aren’t many places left where unspoiled tropical jungle throws leafy shadows on a beach crisscrossed by heavy loops of sea turtle imprints and jaguar tracks.

    And right at that moment, the proximity of the forest to the beach crystalized. I had surprised a Baird’s Tapir, six feet long and nearly four feet tall, supporting up to 800 pounds. It is the largest land mammal found in Central America.

    Apparently the animal had bedded down to wait out the afternoon heat, while I had continued hiking in sweat-soaked clothes, gulping tepid water every few minutes. What, at first, looked like a peculiar rock, suddenly stood up on large hoofed feet, twisting its proboscis this way and that.

    I stood nailed to the spot between the tapir and the dense undergrowth the species prefers for escape. Neither of us quite knew what to do.

    After a few moments, the animal crashed through a tangle out onto the beach and stomped out of sight.

    Into the wild

    While wildlife and rainforests are disappearing from many places in Central America, the trend may be reversed in Costa Rica. The Osa Peninsula in the remote southwest corner of the country still supports swaths of rainforests and encounters with some of the jungle's mega fauna are still possible.

    However, if you prefer not to make eye contact with a wild jaguar, there is plenty of smaller plant and animal life to marvel at. The lowland rainforest found on the peninsula is some of the best preserved of its kind in the world, and harbors some of the highest biodiversity on earth.

    But it isn't numbers that make a lasting impression on the visitor. It's the sheer fecundity of the place that comes alive every morning with hundreds of strange calls, a plethora of colors and the rush of hundreds of rivulets, creeks, and streams.

    Mind the flora and the fauna

    Climbing one of the steep ridges, I passed the gargantuan buttressed trunks of 100 year old trees, scientifically known as emergent trees. Their trunks piercing layers of dark green and vanished out of sight.

    Far above, I could hear the chatter of endangered squirrel monkeys. These pint-sized primates usually travel in large groups and cause quite a racket.

    It is often hard to enjoy sweeping views in intact rainforest, but after a few more minutes, I reached a small promontory near the edge of the Corcovado National Park. The boundary was invisible in the untouched forest.

    As the forest exhaled, clusters of cloud drifted from the valley below. Far across, howler monkeys let other groups know that part of the forest was taken. Past undulating green, the distant blue of the Golfo Dulce, a deep tropical fjord and home to humpback whales, was visible.

    Play a little Frogger

    Smaller than a thumb, but potentially lethal, poison dart frogs are one of nature’s chemical wonders. Unlike most frogs, which are nocturnal and camouflaged to avoid being chomped on, poison dart frogs appear brazen. They sport flashy colors ranging from bright red, shiny black and green, to blue and orange, hopping along open trails during the middle of the day.

    Even though they are comparably visible amphibians, it does require some effort to spot one in the wild. The best time to look for one is after rain, which occurs nearly every day during the wet season lasting from late April through December, but downpours occur any time of year.

    Poison dart frogs like deep leaf litter and can often be found along small streams in deep ravines. The Osa Peninsula harbors several species ranging from screaming red through black with orange lines.

    Go take a hike

    Corcovado National Park encompasses approximately one-third of the peninsula and offers a limited trail system. Hikers can tackle the long section from Los Patos ranger station to La Sirena ranger station in the heart of the park, and then follow the coastline south toward La Leona ranger station and the small town of Carate. This trip involves at least one night camping at La Sirena.

    Another great option to cross the rugged peninsula on foot is an all-day walk from the small village of Dos Brazos on the Rio Tigre towards Carate. This “trail” should only be attempted with an experienced local guide.

    My guide, Ulysses, and I started upstream in the early morning, with the cool night air still clinging to the valley. By the time we left the stream to turn onto a muddy path snaking its way up a steep ridge, the sun and humidity had already thickened the air.

    A slippery, root-clenching few minutes later, we followed a wide path along a flat ridgetop through primary forest. High up in the canopy, a single spider monkey held its ground, visibly dissatisfied by our intrusion.

    Near the center of the peninsula, we passed the small gold mining camp of Piedras Blancas, where a handful of people and two dozen scraggly mutts carve out a meager living.

    Deeper into the forest, tapir and jaguar footprints overlapped along a muddy river bank.

    What goes up, must come down, and down we came a steep narrow trail towards Carate and the Pacific Ocean, past several small waterfalls beckoning with cool water.

    Take a swim

    The heat in the Osa Peninsula can be relentless, and the best thing to do during the midday peak is to find a waterhole or cascade along one of the many streams.

    The water tumbles clear and refreshing from the mountainous interior, where some summits reach up to 3,000 feet. While soaking tired feet, the lucky may even spot one of the rare Central American river otters that still frequent the creeks.

    Make a frontier pit stop

    Puerto Jimenez is the largest town on the peninsula and the transportation hub. The airstrip is located here, and buses rumble along the dusty dirt road to the main station.

    Hotels in town are usually a ramshackle affair, but lodging can be found in every amount, ranging from jungle camping to high-end resorts just outside town. However, there are no hotel strips, and most places still offer 360-degree rainforest views.

    You can also organize tours into Corcovado National Park and rent necessary expedition gear. And after a jungle trek, there are enough pizza joints and Internet cafes to reconnect seamlessly with civilization.

    Lend a helping hand

    While much of the rainforest here is protected, the region still suffers from many environmental problems common throughout the tropics.

    Volunteers can help with a large variety of projects. Scientists and conservationists are active throughout the Osa Peninsula in order to protect the unique flora and fauna.

    The non-profit organization Friends of the Osa seeks to purchase and conserve land and has one of the best established volunteer programs in the region.

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    news/travel

    Where to travel right now

    Hill Country's historic spa reopens + 10 more Texas travel ideas for June

    Amber Heckler
    Jun 3, 2025 | 9:15 am
    Ottine Mineral Springs pool
    Photo by David Brendan Hall
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    Texas, it's time to make those summer vacation plans. June is shaping up to be a big month full of travel ideas, from fun wine tastings in Austin to a lively mural festival on the coast. There's also plenty to explore at home in Houston, such as a Japanese culture festival. Here are our top picks for summer travel events, hotel deals, and more in June.

    Austin

    The Loren Hotel is introducing two new wine programs this summer, open to all visitors. The "Boxed or Bougie" wine tastings will be offered on the first Saturday of each month, starting June 7, where guests can taste different wines to discover if fine wine is worth the price tag. On the second and third Saturdays of each month, the hotel will host "Varietal Wine Tastings" with different themes to spotlight wine regions, flavor profiles, and winemaking styles. Since June 14 is National Rosé Day, the first varietal tasting will focus on rosés. Both programs are free to the public and events will be held from 3-5 pm in the hotel lobby.

    Nearly 30 participating Texas Hill Country Wineries will hit the highway for an Austin Road Show at the Austin Central Library. Attendees will get to meet the owners, winemakers, and managers behind some of the Hill Country's most successful vineyards while tasting new wines and dining on charcuterie. Guests will also receive a take-home event wine glass. The Austin Road Show event will be held from 5:30-8 pm on Friday, June 27. Tickets are $60 per person.

    Central Texas

    Floating down the Comal, San Marcos, or Pedernales Rivers while enjoying the scenery and the cool water is a perfect way to spend a hot afternoon this summer. People travel to the Central Texas area every year to tube, and locals love it, as well. However, it's not without dangers, rules, and guidelines that should be observed. Before setting off down the river, check out CultureMap's five essential tips for tubing this summer.

    There's a unique new spa making a splash in the small town of Gonzales: Ottine Mineral Springs is finally celebrating its grand reopening after undergoing an extensive renovation. The 40-acre historic site was previously home to two private mineral-fed pools, but now the property is dotted with five new pools of varying adjustable temperatures, outdoor dining options, saunas, cold plunges, cabanas, fire pits, and much more. Day passes are $65 on weekdays and $75 on weekends.

    Fredericksburg's beautiful new Albert Hotel, whichopened in January, is adding a new barbecue restaurant inspired by the area's German heritage. Junebug's BBQ will open Friday, June 6, serving barbecue classics such as brisket, pork ribs, house-made sausages, and more. Junebug's BBQ will have limited hours from June 6-9, serving food from 2 pm until it’s sold out. Starting June 12, Junebug’s will operate regular hours from Thursdays through Sundays, from 11 am until sold out.

    Junebug's BBQJunebug's BBQ is ready to open at the Albert Hotel. junebugsbbq.com

    TV stars Chip and Joanna Gaines' signature restaurant Magnolia Table in Waco has introduced a new summer menu, featuring dishes like a brunch slider flight and a spicy peach fizz mocktail. The nearby Silos Baking Co. and Magnolia Press café have also added new items on their seasonal summer menus, including a peaches and cream cupcake and a ham and cheddar croissant sandwich. Reservations for Magnolia Table can be made via OpenTable.

    Houston

    Texas-based luxury bus service Vonlane will debut daily service between Dallas and The Woodlands on Friday, June 13. The new route will pick up travelers at Woodlands Waterway Marriott Hotel & Convention Center and drop off at Dallas' Doubletree Love Field hotel. The ride will take 3 hours and 15 minutes. This will be a second Houston-area destination for Dallas, as Vonlane already offers service to downtown Houston. Tickets can be booked online; fares are a flat rate of $125 for one-way trips with advance purchase. No taxes, baggage fees, or change fees apply.

    Tokyo X, one of Houston's premier celebrations of Japanese culture, is returning to NRG Center from June 14-15, promising celebrities, food, martial arts, anime, and more. Highlights of the festival include the Hot Import Nights Japanese car show series, a ramen showdown, and an anime convention featuring cosplay contests, panels, and voice actor appearances. Tickets can be purchased via Eventbrite. Saturday tickets are $36.22 per person, Sunday tickets are $ 30.48 per person, and two-day badges are $59.21 per person.

    Along the Gulf Coast

    The coastal city of Corpus Christi will celebrate its annual Mural Fest during the first week of June, showcasing its colorful large-scale murals in the Marina Arts District. During the Artist Week days from June 2-5, visitors can take self-guided tours to watch artists paint murals live throughout downtown, and collect "artographs." The festival will draw to a close on Saturday, June 7, with a block party on South Chaparral Street from 3-9 pm. More information about daily events during Mural Fest can be found via Visit Corpus Christi.

    Mural Fest in Corpus ChristiMural Fest will take place during the first week of June in downtown Corpus Christi. Photo courtesy of Visit Corpus Christi

    Across Dallas-Fort Worth

    A long anticipated Fort Worth hotel and restaurant have arrived: The Nobleman Fort Worth, Tapestry Collection by Hilton and the hotel’s in-house restaurant Duchess, have opened at 503 Bryan Ave., with fabulous accommodations and food from celebrity chef Casey Thompson. The property has 121 guest rooms and 32 extended-stay suites with kitchenettes. Hotel amenities include a pool, state-of-the-art fitness center, and 2,000 square feet of meeting and outdoor event spaces, along with terraces. Nightly rates begin at $162 in June.

    Dallas' Perot Museum of Nature and Science recently reopened the Moody Family Children's Museum, unveiling an extensively renovated 11,000-square-foot space sprawling with educational and science-centered activities. Among the new areas for children to explore are an immersive multi-sensory Imaginarium, an expanded toddler area, a hands-on maker area, an open-air outdoor space, and a fiber art playscape created by Toshiko MacAdam. Non-member general admission to the Perot Museum ($15 for children aged 2-12, and $25 for adults and children 13 and older) also includes access to the children's museum.

    summer vacationtraveltexasdallasfort worthhotelsfestivalsspashill countrywineries
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