For Bryan Caswell, Monday night's Bon Vivant Houston benefit dinner was not so far removed from his stint on the Food Network's The Next Iron Chef .

He got the call from benefit co-chair Richard Flowers shortly before 5 p.m. Could he fill in for ailing Stella Sola chef Justin Basye? Dinner guests were scheduled to arrive at 6 for cocktails with dinner service beginning at 7 p.m.

"I'm sort of used to this," Caswell joked, appearing surprisingly relaxed. "It's like something I did on TV recently." Lending him a hand was chef Jesse Gallardo, who was recruited at the eleventh hour from Little Bigs.

With two hours notice, Caswell's challenge was to prepare a six-course gourmet meal for 10 in the ballroom of the Hilton Americas-Houston. He was one of 21 chefs, who put their best culinary talents forward, cooking tableside, for the evening that raised $148,000 for the Youth Development Center.

Charlene Ripley, Linn Energy general counsel, founded the evening last year and co-chaired it this year with Flowers. Alex Brennan-Martin was to reprise his role as master of ceremonies, but he also fell ill at the last minute.

The fun of this party, which is short on speeches and long on food and wine, is that each chef interprets the dinner as he wishes with creativity knowing no bounds.

Hats off to Max's Wine Dive's Michael Pelligrino for a spectacular presentation that began with gourmet feasting, moved on to a very casual picnic repast complete with fried chicken, and included a surprise string quartet that performed classical and contemporary pieces. He even made bread at the table. Showmanship at its finest.

Hotel ZaZa's Monarch chef Adam West and his team were so impressed that they gave Pellegrino's team a standing ovation. ZaZa earned kudos for its over-the-top glam-inspired table setting.

Brennan's Danny Trace and his team won my vote (I was seated at their table) for an incredible meal worthy of the Chaine de Rotisseurs. Of course, I do believe that every diner at every table would have voted his or her meal the best had there been a competition. And without question, Bon Vivant is one of the most entertaining, enjoyable and clever fundraisers of the year.

Hats off to participating chefs who went far beyond the ordinary for this special night — Andrew LaRue of Abuso Catering, Elizabeth Stone of Stone Kitchen Catering & Special Events, Aaron Valimont of The Oceanaire in Dallas, Reginald Martin of Lemond Catering & Special Events, Brian Robertson of the San Luis Hotel, Mark Holley of Pesce, Ruffy Sulaiman of Hilton Americas-Houston, Barbara Friedel McKnight of Catering by Culinaire, Randy Evans of Haven, Greg Lowry of Voice in Hotel Icon, Scotty Campbell of Milestone Distributors, Brent Jarrolls and Louis Ray of Jim Benton of Houston and Jose Parada of Willie G's.

Among the lucky diners getting tickets to the wild evening of wining and dining were Carol and Mike Linn, Cynthia and Tony Petrello, Melinda and Sam Stubbs, Maureen Hackett, Sheridan and John Eddie Williams, Cathy and Dr. Gary Brock, Kathy and Jody McCord, Kirby and Scott McCool and Pattie Dale and Jim Tye.