food for thought

YouTube star ranks 3 top Houston BBQ joints against Texas' best

Corkscrew BBQ is one of the restaurants Weissman visited on his tour.

Photo by Eric Sandler

Making the perfect brisket is one of the most impressive (and unforgiving) culinary feats pitmasters face when finding their niche within Texas' vast barbecue landscape. But if you can get it right, there will be lines out the door with hungry patrons waiting to get their hands on it.

Sometimes you even get famous celebrities or popular internet personalities to stop by – such as YouTube star and Austinite Joshua Weissman. This chef-turned-YouTuber recently went on a statewide expedition to try some of Texas Monthly's best barbecue restaurants, and stopped by three Houston-area barbecue joints to give his honest review. To keep things consistent across restaurants, the chef ordered only one meat, brisket, and three of the barbecue world's most popular side: cole slaw, beans, and mac & cheese.

While many may snub the idea of "just another YouTuber" reviewing Texas barbecue joints, Weissman cut his teeth working in the restaurant industry, and was once the lead cook at Uchiko in Austin. His YouTube channel has amassed over 10 million subscribers, and he's written two New York Times Bestselling cookbooks.

YouTube star Joshua Weissman visited 17 barbecue restaurants around the state. Joshua Weissman/YouTube

With Texas Monthly's 2021 list (the newest edition will be released later this year) as his guide, Weissman documented his journey alongside new Texas resident and private chef Olivia Tiedemann. The duo also visited the four Texas barbecue restaurants that recently earned Michelin Stars.

Here are the Houston barbecue restaurants they visited, with their reviews:

CorkScrew BBQ, Spring
Brisket score: 24 out of 30 possible points (8 for brisket flavor, 9 for texture, 7 for salt level)
Sides: 7 out of 10 possible points

CorkScrew is the only Houston-area barbecue joint that has earned a Michelin star. Tiedemann said the juicy brisket was "texturally perfect," and Weissman enjoyed every side dish the restaurant offered. He specifically praised the mashed-yet-chunky texture of the potato salad and the refreshing (and not too rich) cole slaw.

While being interviewed by Weissman, Corkscrew owner and pitmaster Will Buckman compared smoking meat to a game of Tetris, where he's constantly juggling factors like the weather and wood moisture to develop their signature smoked brisket.

"You're basically putting all your eggs in one basket, 18 hours later you're hoping that it comes out right," Buckman said. "If you mess up, your day's ruined or your restaurant's closed."

Truth BBQ, Houston
Brisket score: 27 points (8 for flavor; 9 for texture; 10 for salt level)
Sides: 7.5 points

In 2021, Texas Monthly ranked Truth the No. 3 best barbecue in the state, lauding the brisket for "its deep, peppery crust and just the right measure of glossy fat to bring out the best in the lush, smoky beef."

Weissman was wowed by the presentation of the brisket with the four main sides (mac and cheese, cole slaw, potato salad, and baked beans). He and Tiedemann were also impressed with all factors of the brisket, from it's perfect salt levels to its "traditional Texas" beef flavor. As for the sides, they appreciated the mac and cheese's al dente pasta texture, and the sauce's creaminess. Weissman also called out the caramelized onion in the baked beans.

Truth BBQ meat platter You can't go wrong with Truth's barbecue platter. Photo by Eric Sandler

When Weissman mentioned to owner Leonard Botello IV that all pitmasters are very respectful to each other (and seemingly have no beef with one another), Botello had a classic response.

"I think it's because this job sucks, so we kinda all pay homage and respect to each other because we all know what goes into it," he said.

Tejas Chocolate & Barbecue, Tomball
Total score: 20 points (no point breakdown)
Sides: 6.5 points

Tejas began as a chocolatier in 2011, and built on its legacy by smoking meats just four years later. Now, the Tomball-based eatery has earned an esteemed Bib Gourband status from the Michelin Guide.

While Weissman said their meal was still a "solid plate of barbecue" that most patrons would enjoy, he admitted it wasn't as formidable as CorkScrew or Truth.

"If I'm being honest, it's better than any other Texas barbecue outside of Texas, but it really wasn't topping our first two," Weissman said. "The lean [brisket] was quite dry, and the fat was a bit too unrendered for Olivia."

However, he did say Tejas' carrot soufflé was a "non-negotiable" delicious side dish everyone must try, and he said the cole slaw topped with crumbled bacon was No. 1 in his book.

Other top Texas barbecue restaurants
Overall, Weissman ranked Goldee's Barbecue in Fort Worth the highest on the list out of the 17 total Texas barbecue restaurants he visited. He even invited Texas Monthly's barbecue editor Daniel Vaughn to join him during their final tasting.

Weissman had nothing but good things to say about Goldee's classic side dishes and its brisket, giving them overall ratings of 9.5 and 29.2 points, respectively.

"The [brisket] seasoning is ridiculous, it's exactly where it should be," he said. "It's got the smoke flavor I want, but it's not overwhelmingly smoky. This is worth traveling back for."

Goldees BBQ Fort Worth's Goldee's Barbecue was the highest ranked Texas barbecue. fortworth.culturemap.com

The Central Texas barbecue restaurants Weissman visited, with their ratings, include:

Burnt Bean Company, Seguin – 28.4 points for brisket, 8.7 points for sides
2M Smokehouse, San Antonio – 24.8 for brisket, 8 for sides
Franklin Barbecue, Austin – 26.5 for brisket, 5 for sides
Interstellar Barbecue, Austin – 26.9 for brisket, 9.3 for sides
La Barbecue, Austin – 25.5 for brisket, 8.8 for sides
LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue, Austin – 28.8 for brisket, no score for non-traditional sides
Terry Black's BBQ, Austin – 24 for brisket, 6.5 for sides
Snow's BBQ, Lexington – 27.2 for brisket, 8.7 for sides
Louie Mueller, Taylor – 24.8 for brisket, 5 for sides

The other Texas barbecue restaurants Weissman visited include:

Evie Mae's, Wolfforth – 25.5 for brisket, 6 for sides
Panther City BBQ, Fort Worth – 19 for brisket, 8.5 for sides
Dayne's Craft BBQ, Aledo – 25 for brisket, 8 for sides
Cattleack Barbeque, Farmers Branch – 28.3 for brisket, 9.5 for sides

barbecue restaurants

8 miles high

United and Chef's Table recruit top Houston chef for premium inflight meal

Courtesy of Thorough Fare

Chef Justin Yu will represent Houston on United flights.

United Airlines has a new initiative to lure travelers to fly its premium Polaris business class seating. Beginning August 1, travelers departing from 11 cities around the world — United hubs along with London, Tokyo, and São Paulo — may opt for meals created by some of the best chefs in the world through a new partnership with Chef’s Table, the acclaimed Netflix documentary series.

For flights departing from Houston, United and Chef’s Table recruited Justin Yu, the James Beard Award-winning chef behind Theodore Rex, a fine dining restaurant in downtown that holds a Bib Gourmand designation in the Michelin Guide. In addition, Yu and Bobby Heugel own Houston hospitality group Thorough Fare, which operates bars and restaurants including Anvil, Better Luck Tomorrow, Squable, and a new, still-unnamed restaurant in Montrose that’s slated to open this summer. A frequent traveler, Yu tells CultureMap that he jumped at the opportunity to work with United and Chef’s Table to create a premium meal that showcases Houston’s food scene.

“There’s always something slightly unexpected about Houston and its food,” Yu explains. “The choice of asking me to be the chef very much represents that. As a native Houstonian, I am very rooted in the city, but always with something slightly unexpected with our food.”

While the specific dishes won’t be revealed until closer to launch, Yu shared the creative direction that inspired his menu, which will include an appetizer, a salad, and an entree. Specifically, diners can expect to see Asian ingredients that reflect Houston’s diversity, just as they would on Theodore Rex’s menu.

“I wanted that slightly Texan touch. To me, the Houston part of it is the most important. There’s such a level of diversity. Introducing light touches of that to the meal was something I considered,” he says.

Part of the consideration was creating flavors that would hold up well when served at 30,000 feet. The meal also needs to match the level of luxury that Polaris offers.

“That use of ingredients that’s maybe something you don’t expect in an in-flight meal is something I thought about quite a bit. How do you introduce a deeper level of umami to the flavors, the possibility for a few local ingredients that are unique to the region.”

Being included in the project puts Yu in some pretty prestigious company. The roster includes Michelin star holders such as Nancy Silverton (Osteria Mozza in Los Angeles), Jenner Tomaska (Esmé in Chicago), David Barzelay (two-star Lazy Bear in San Francisco), and Tomos Parry, whose London restaurant Mountain Yu cites as the one he’s most personally excited to visit.

“Getting to know the other chefs has been really fantastic. I feel very blessed to be part of this project,” he says.

Travelers who fly in the Polaris class enjoy a number of amenities, including all-aisle-access seating, lie-flat beds, and premium bedding by Saks Fifth Avenue. Since last year, United has been updating the seats with larger entertainment screens, sliding privacy doors, and tech upgrades like Bluetooth, wireless charging, and USB-C power outlets.

"United's network spans many of the culinary capitals of the world, allowing us to authentically bring together acclaimed chefs from around the globe," said Andrew Nocella, chief commercial officer, United Airlines, in a statement. "Our collaboration with Chef's Table shows how we're leveraging our unique position as the world's largest airline* to deliver restaurant-quality moments in the sky. Our United Polaris international business class travelers are going to love the new dishes coming later this year."

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