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    Do these awards matter?

    Chris Shepherd explains what it means to win a Wine Spectator Award

    Chris Shepherd
    Jul 10, 2024 | 2:30 pm
    Pappas Bros Steakhouse downtown wine glasses

    Pappas Bros. is one of the restaurants setting the standard for wine service.

    Photo courtesy of Pappas Bros. Steakhouse

    What’s happening, you amazing and rambunctious oenophiles aka party people?! Today we are going to talk about the release of the 2024 Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards, which have recognized more than 3,700 restaurants this year.

    First, let’s talk about how the awards work. The application process seems fairly easy, but then again, I personally have never applied (my wine director Matt Pridgen used to do that for our restaurants back in the day). When the application window opens, restaurants are notified, as well as how much it will cost to apply that year. In the past, it’s been around $400 but that apparently can change from year to year. Once the application is received, the restaurants are judged according to three levels of awards and their criteria.

    The Award of Excellence: These wine lists, which should offer at least 90 selections, feature a well-chosen assortment of quality producers, along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style. Whether compact or extensive, focused or diverse, these lists deliver sufficient choice to satisfy discerning wine lovers. There were 2,150 winners in 2024.

    Best of Award of Excellence: These wine lists display excellent breadth across multiple winegrowing regions and/or significant vertical depth of top producers, along with superior presentation. Typically offering 350 or more selections, these restaurants are destinations for serious wine lovers, showing a deep commitment to wine, both in the cellar and through their service team. In 2024, there were 1,531 winners of this award.

    Then here comes the big dog, the highly coveted Grand Award which is the highest award, given to restaurants that show an uncompromising, passionate devotion to the quality of their wine programs. These wine lists typically feature 1,000 or more selections and deliver serious breadth of top producers, outstanding depth in mature vintages, a selection of large-format bottles, excellent harmony with the menu, and superior presentation. These restaurants offer the highest level of wine service. There are only 96 winners of the Grand Award in the work so to be on this list is really, really impressive.

    Let’s get into the winners in our area.

    Grand Award: to me, there are no surprises here.

    • Mastro’s Steakhouse at the Post Oak Hotel
    • Pappas Bros. Steakhouse Houston Downtown
    • Pappas Bros. Steakhouse Houston Galleria

    These three are very well deserving of this achievement because when you look at the lists, they all have depth, price, and varietals. Are you looking for a certain producer and a certain vintage of something? It’s likely they’ll have it. These steakhouses are some of the best, and their wine lists show it.

    I do think that the only other place in Houston that could be a Grand Award winner is March. The list there is not quite as deep but just as exciting for sure.

    Next up is the Best of Award of Excellence. The Houston area has 15 winners:

    • Amrina
    • Andiron
    • Barcelona Wine Bar
    • Brix Wine Cellars
    • Caracol
    • Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse
    • El Mason
    • Georgia James
    • Kiran’s
    • Little’s Oyster Bar
    • March
    • Mastro’s Ocean Club
    • The Capital Grille - CityCentre location
    • Vic & Anthony’s Steakhouse
    • Zanti Cucina Italiana

    Here are the 24 Houston-area winners of the Award of Excellence:

    • Backstreet Cafe
    • Bludorn
    • Brenner’s Steakhouse
    • Brenner’s Steakhouse On the Bayou
    • Del Frisco’s Grille
    • Eddie V’s Prime Seafood- 2 locations
    • Fogo de Chão- 2 Locations
    • Hugo’s
    • La Griglia
    • Le Colonial
    • Marmo
    • Morton’s the Steakhouse
    • Navy Blue
    • Pearl & Vine
    • Perry’s Steakhouse & Grille- 6 locations
    • Rosie Cannonball
    • Seasons 52
    • Sorriso Modern Italian Kitchen
    • State of Grace
    • Taste of Texas
    • The Capital Grille- Westheimer location
    • The Oceanaire Seafood Room
    • The Palm
    • Truluck’s
    • Xochi

    This is all very amazing and quite the accomplishment for these restaurants, but what does it truly mean? Are there restaurants that aren’t on this list that you think should be? Does it stir controversy in any way? I used to think so but now I’m just happy for those that are on the list.

    Why are some not on? Maybe they chose not to spend the time and money to apply. Maybe they feel that affirmation comes from the guest and the staff, more than from a publication. [Editor's note: We asked Chris why, for example, Nancy's Hustle isn't included.]

    I know how it feels when you are on the list, especially for the team that spends the long hours of tastings and meetings with wineries and distributors to put together what, in their eyes, is a well thought out list. Putting together a wine list is not easy because you are not building a list for yourself. You are putting together a list that shows great expressions of those varietals, the vintages, and flavor profiles that match the menu of the restaurant — all while making sure that price points and guest appeal are there.

    I always knew that if you only have obscure (although delicious) wines on the list, then the staff training has got to be on point. When people don’t feel comfortable or confident in their own choices, they can feel alienated and will just have a cocktail instead. That’s not what writing an amazing wine list is for. You want people to feel comfortable in their experience. That’s why these award lists can be important to some because it sets an expectation to the guest. Do I read these awards and go to the places because of the award? Not usually, but there are a few restaurants here that I want to visit now to check out their lists.

    I hope that reading this makes you go out and try something new. Go enjoy a dining experience and a glass of wine and tell the wine team congratulations. It’s not easy, and I’m very happy people are doing the work because it would be lame if all wine lists looked the same.

    And now, here are two wine experiences happening around the city to help you learn more!

    Pappas Bros Steakhouse: White Burgundy Tasting

    • July 18, 5:30-7:30 pm
    • $150 per person plus tax and tip

    Pappas’ description of the event: Experience the unparalleled allure of White Burgundy like never before. Wine enthusiasts and collectors alike are turning their gaze to Burgundy, captivated by its elegance and complexity. Our exclusive collection is unmatched in the city and state, offering a meticulously curated selection of world-class White Burgundian wines. Escape the heat and indulge in a refreshing journey through Burgundy's finest, expertly chosen by the Galleria Sommelier Team.

    Why I think you should go: Very rarely do you get to taste through so many areas of Burgundy at one time, from Chablis to Meursault to Chassagne-Montrachet. They always do such a fantastic job here, and having the understanding of these areas is invaluable. Not all Chardonnay is created equal.

    Stella’s Wine Bar Symposium Saturdays: Blind Taste Like a Pro!

    • July 20, 4 pm
    • $75 per person

    Stella’s description of the event: Blind taste like a pro, join the Stella’s team as you unravel the secrets of blind tasting and delight your senses with a curated flight of wines and paired little bites, all guided by a seasoned wine expert. Sharpen your palate, enhance your tasting skills, and stand a chance to win an exciting prize!

    Why I think you should go: After watching sommeliers blind taste, I realized what a skill it is. Anyone interested in wine should learn to blind taste. It’s like your own mini version of Drops of God — if you haven’t seen that show on Apple TV, watch it! It’s an edge-of-your-seat show about wine tasting!

    Be safe out there. Love you.

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    New Houston seafood restaurant adds live-fire flair to Japanese flavors

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 3, 2025 | 10:02 am
    Casa Kenji restaurant
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

    An ambitious new seafood restaurant is coming to Montrose next week. Casa Kenji will open on Tuesday, December 9.

    Located in the former Andiron space (3201 Allen Pkwy), Casa Kenji is the first Houston project for New Orleans restaurateur Malachi DuPre, a former LSU standout who played briefly in the NFL before establishing Kenji and Kenji Kazoku restaurants in New Orleans. Together with former LSU teammate John “B-John” Ballis and Houston chef Bigler “Biggie” Cruz, Casa Kenji will blend Latin and Japanese influences while also incorporating live-fire elements into the restaurant’s dishes. Cruz, whose resume includes a lengthy stint at Uchi as well as working at critically acclaimed Houston seafood restaurant Golfstrømmen, tells CultureMap that Casa Kenji’s approach is the first time he can be himself in the kitchen.

    “My perfect restaurant was always based on the live fire and sushi combination,” Cruz says. “My mom cooked with wood for my entire life. The live fire creates completely different flavors. The smoky flavors, the sear from the charcoal — they create a different type of memory for me.”

    The use of live fire techniques will permeate Casa Kenji’s menus in ways both big and small. For example, diners will be able to feast on prawns grilled directly on charcoal and served with yuzu chili garlic, or savor lightly seared Japanese wagyu tataki paired with mushrooms. Even raw dishes will benefit from the restaurant’s wood-burning grill and stove.

    “Every vegetable we peel, we make into an ash that’s a topping for the dishes. It adds a different layer of flavor,” Cruz says. Look for it in the scallop aguachile, among others.

    Even vegetables get a smoky component, as in a cabbage dish that’s braised with dashi and soy sauce before being roasted and served with an onion soubise that Cruz says he developed based on techniques he learned from Golfstrømmen chef Christopher Haatuft.

    “It’s rich, super savory, with smoky layers, and you get brightness from the shiso gremolata. I think it will be a signature dish for us,” the chef says.

    One change to the interior is the addition of a six-seat omakase counter that looks into the kitchen. Cruz promises those diners will have an even more elevated experience than the restaurant’s regular menu, including ingredients such as Japanese wagyu and premium fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu fish market.

    Beyond its cuisine, Casa Kenji hopes to stand out with its spacious outdoor patio. Since very few Japanese-inspired restaurants in Houston offer outdoor seating, it should appeal to diners who want a little vitamin D along with their tuna crudo.

    “We’re proud to showcase the craft and creativity that defines Casa Kenji,” co-founders Cruz, Ballis, and DuPre said in a statement. “With chef Bigler Cruz at the helm — blending live-fire technique with the discipline of Japanese tradition — we’re equally honored and excited to share a unique concept that is truly rooted in passion, culture, and community.”

    Casa Kenji will be open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday beginning at 4 pm. Reservations are available on Resy.

    Casa Kenji restaurant

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Spanish sea bass, scallop crudo, nigiri, bluefin binchotan, and bluefin crudo.

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