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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 355 and 356

    Meet the caviar-obsessed chef behind Houston's best new seafood restaurant

    CultureMap Staff
    Mar 1, 2024 | 5:08 pm
    Jason Ryzcek Little's Oyster Bar

    Chef Jason Ryzcek is this week's guest.

    Photo by Arturo Olmos

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” chef Jason Ryzcek joins CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss Little’s Oyster Bar. The seafood restaurant has been a smash hit since it opened, earning CultureMap Tastemaker Award nominations for Best New Restaurant and Wine Program of the Year.



    Ryzcek begins the conversation by explaining the path that led him to become a chef. From there, he looks back on his time in California and the experiences that eventually led Pappas Restaurants to hire him Little’s executive chef. He also shares the experiences that led to his esteem for making and serving caviar.

    Fans of the restaurant will enjoy hearing Ryzcek discuss some of the highlights of the menu, including the signature yellow edge group and farmed Texas red fish that have become customer favorites. While many of the dishes have been popular, he’s ready to switch things up.

    “What scares my bosses the most is telling them that, as much as we have some winners on the menu, part of it is replacing some winners on the menu with new winners,” he says. “I don’t want people to come here on the menu [and say] ‘oh, they have the same stuff.’ Even those these last six months have been trying with not making changes, it was with the understanding that we’d have more changes this year. We have our six major changes planned out based on what I’ve come to learn.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear the chef’s take on being named Houston’s top restaurant by venerable Houston Chronicle food critic Alison Cook. He also shares his take on whether Pappas should seek to replicate Little’s in other locations.

    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Michael Fulmer discuss the news of the week. Their topics include the Houston representatives on Texas Monthly’s list of the state’s best new restaurants; the opening of the Conservatory Galleria food hall — with an assist from show producer Michael Carrell; and what Sandler’s new role as city editor for CultureMap Houston means for the podcast’s future.



    In the restaurant of the week segment, Fulmer and Sandler share their thoughts on meals at two Indian restaurants. First, they explain why inner loopers should be making the drive to fine dining restaurant Amrina in The Woodlands. They conclude by praising Himalaya, the Southwest Houston staple that celebrated its 20th anniversary last week.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Sunday at 8 am on ESPN 97.5.


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    Slowpokes is coming

    Sawyer Yards cafe closes as Astro-owned Houston coffee brand pivots

    Eric Sandler
    Jan 2, 2026 | 3:39 pm
    Maven Coffee Sawyer Yards interior
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Maven Coffee's interior will be renovated to reflect Slowpokes' style.

    A Houston hospitality group is shifting from operating cafes to selling coffee products to as many people as possible. Rex Hospitality’s decision to focus on products such as cold brew concentrate means that Maven Coffee in Sawyer Yards has closed, but the space will soon reopen as the newest outpost of a growing Houston coffee shop.

    Rex partner Juan Carlos de Aldecoa tells CultureMap that he and his business partners, attorney Jimmy Doan and Astros pitcher Lance McCullers Jr., have turned over the property to Slowpokes, the growing Houston coffee shop with locations in Garden Oaks, the East End, Levy Park, and more. While Rex is still operating Maven Coffee’s shop at the Thompson Hotel, the company is actively searching for a new operator who would keep the location open as Maven but free it from day-to-day oversight. The future of Maven’s coffee and cocktail stands at Toyota Center and Daikin Park has yet to be decided.

    “The cafes are brand plays for us,” de Aldecoa says. “We’re shifting that a bit. We still have more locations coming, but they won’t be operated by us. They’ll be licensing deals in different developments. That’s our new model.”

    Instead, the company will focus on growing Maven Coffee Company, which sells cold brew concentrate and other coffee products to both restaurants and directly to consumers. “We’ve had a record month-over-month. If we put the right amount of time and effort into this project, we can make a big impact. I feel that’s where our resources are best utilized,” de Aldecoa says.

    Later, he adds, “We’re in 14 different metros. We’d like to increase that to about 50 through our concentrate and having different sorts of products such as RTDs.”

    Rex opened Maven at Sawyer Yards in October 2024. Intended to be an all-day cafe, it served coffee and breakfast in the morning as well as a sophisticated dinner menu that included everything from roast chicken and spicy rigatoni to steak and octopus.

    Coming Soon to Sawyer Yards

    Slowpokes owner Mazen Baltagi tells CultureMap that, after building a friendship with de Aldecoa, he welcomed the opportunity to bring his coffee shop to Sawyer Yards. Having assumed control of the space on January 1, he’s optimistic that the new Slowpokes will open in March. Plans call for replacing the current interior with more homey fabrics and installing vintage speakers that are more in line with Slowpokes’ other shops. He thinks the location is ideal for Slowpokes, which has built a devoted following by selling coffee, beer, and wine that are paired with a diverse food menu built around sandwiches, flatbread pizzas, and breakfast items.

    “If you look at all of our locations, most of them aren’t necessarily in high-traffic areas. They’re in underserved areas — besides [nearby] Catalina Coffee, which we’re huge fans of, but they don’t have food [other than pastries] or Wi-Fi,” Baltagi says.

    In particular, Baltagi thinks Slowpokes will appeal both to area residents looking for a coffee shop where they can get a little work done and to people exercising at nearby gyms such as Orange Theory and Momentum Climbing Gym. Slowpokes will also build on some of Maven’s existing events, such as the monthly Cars & Coffee gathering and a weekly run club.

    “I think it’s a phenomenal brand that can get to 25-plus locations in the Houston area and throughout the state,” de Aldecoa says about Slowpokes. “I think they do a great job. They’ve figured out how to do it at scale. I’m excited for them, and they have a great model.”

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