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    what's eric eating episode 269

    Houston influencer and Burger Bodega creator dishes on his New York-themed WashAve joint

    CultureMap Staff
    Feb 2, 2023 | 11:30 am
    Burger Bodega Abbas Dhanani

    Abbas Dhanani is this week's guest.

    Photo by Michael Ma

    On this week's episode of "What's Eric Eating," Abbas Dhanani joins CultureMap food editor Eric Sandler. Best known for his houstoneatz Instagram and TikTok accounts, Dhanani recently opened Burger Bodega on Washington Avenue last year.



    The conversation begins with Dhanani discussing growing up in a family whose successful restaurant group includes hundreds of franchised locations as well as La Madeline and Cyclone Anaya's. He also shares his initial motivation to start houstoneatz, which has more than 36,000 followers on Instagram and 112,000 followers on TikTok.

    From there, they talk about Burger Bodega. Dhanani launched the smash burger concept with a series of sold out pop-ups. The restaurant has been similarly well received, drawing consistent crowds and earning a spot on numerous best new restaurant lists.

    While diners are coming for the crispy smash burgers, New York-inspired chopped cheese sandwich, and signature mango lassi shake, Burger Bodega also sets itself apart with its design. Dhanani worked with local artist Donkeeboy on a mural and with Vy Truong and Han Dang of local design firm Very Handsome Studio to create the restaurant's overall look. Sandler asks the restaurateur about putting so much focus design at a small, fast casual restaurant.

    "In my time doing houstoneatz, I saw how important it was to have something people want to take a picture of. Burger Bodega is a restaurant that an Instagram influencer came up with," Dhanani says. "It's New York themed. It's bodega themed. We have all our grocery products as decoration . . . You've got to have the graffiti walls."

    Prior to the interview, Sandler and co-host Matt Harris discuss the news of the week. Their topics include: the Houston restaurants that earned semifinalist nominations in the James Beard Awards; Berg Hospitality's plans to open Benny Chows, a new Chinese restaurant next to B&B Butchers, and Hubcap Grill closing its 19th Street location.

    In the restaurants of the week segment, Harris and Sandler share thoughts about Karne Korean Steakhouse, the latest project from Dak & Bop owner Jason Cho. Listen to the full episode to hear their opinions on the food, service, and overall experience at this new restaurant in the Heights.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Google Play, or Spotify. Listen to it Saturday at noon on ESPN 97.5.

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    Chris Cusack explains

    Houston bar owner speaks out about surprise arrest for health code violations

    Eric Sandler
    May 11, 2026 | 3:50 pm
    Chris Cusack
    Photo by Sergio Trevino
    Chris Cusack owns two locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse.

    Certainly one of the most unusual interactions between a restaurant and City of Houston officials took place on Wednesday, May 6 when Betelgeuse Betelgeuse owner Chris Cusack was arrested for health code violations at his location on Washington Avenue.

    News of the arrest spread quickly across social media over the weekend. Now, Cusack is ready to tell his side of the story.

    Cusack, whose time operating restaurants in Houston goes back more than 15 years to Down House and its affiliated restaurants such as Hunky Dory and D&T Drive Inn, tells CultureMap the problem began on Monday, May 4 when a health department inspector came to Betelgeuse Betelgeuse and asked to see the restaurant’s grease trap.

    The only problem is that location has never had a grease trap. Prior to becoming Betelgeuse Betelgeuse, it was Liberty Station, a pioneering bar in Houston’s craft beer and craft cocktail scenes. In the early days, Betelgeuse served food from a food truck. More recently, it prepares its food next door at The Bell and Crane. Cusack acknowledges he didn’t share this information with the inspector.

    “Usually I’m a charmer with the health department, but I was a little defensive. She kept asking me. I said, ‘ma’am, we don’t make food here,’” he explains. “The tone wasn’t my finest moment, but there was no name calling or anything like that. She said, ‘where does the food come from?’ I said, ‘it doesn’t matter where it comes from. It’s produced in a commercial kitchen.’”

    Cusack says he knew there would be a follow up, but he was shocked when the inspector returned two days later with more colleagues from the health department, TABC inspectors, and Houston Police Department officers.

    “I got somewhere between 21 and 25 citations,” Cusack says about the return visit. He got dinged for everything from graffiti in the bathroom to a missing Harris County tax stamp on the photo booth he leases from a vendor (it has both State of Texas and City of Houston stamps, Cusack says).

    One inspector told Cusack he needed a food dealer’s permit. He showed the inspector that a food dealer’s permit had been issued for the restaurant's address under the former food truck’s LLC but not to the LLC that operates Betelgeuse Betelgeuse. Cusack says he had renewed the food truck’s permit in March, but that wasn’t good enough for the inspector. In Cusack’s telling, he was arrested for not having the permit, since it was also flagged as missing in an inspection from October 2025. He's the only person he knows who has ever been arrested for a misdemeanor violation of the health code.

    Cusack says he spent 21 hours in the Harris County Jail. When he got out, he says he was contacted by a more senior official within the Health Department. Once Cusack confirmed he owned both LLCs, he was told he could reopen. Both locations of Betelgeuse Betelgeuse have been operating normally since Friday, May 8.

    Cusack maintains he never knew about the October 2025 inspection, which is why he renewed the food dealer’s permit for the food truck’s LLC rather than applying for one under Betelgeuse Betelgeuse’s LLC. “There’s no paper trail that shows I was given this information,” he says. “I did not get the email [from the Health Department].”

    As for why things got so out of hand, Cusack theorizes he was a victim of Houston Mayor John Whitemire’s crack down on “reckless behavior” on Washington Avenue and stepped up enforcement on bars generally that led to the temporary closure of near northside cocktail bar Rabbit’s Got the Gun.

    Cusack says he’s a “huge supporter” of efforts to reduce crimes like street racing, drug dealing, and sex trafficking along Washington and in its surrounding neighborhoods. Still, he feels targeting by the city for being impolite to a health inspector.

    He plans to fight both the arrest and the citations in court. “I want the charges dropped, and I want it expunged completely from my record. That’s the first thing, and I’m going to try very hard to do it,” he says.

    “That’s going to end up costing thousands of dollars just to deal with the sheer volume,” he adds.

    CultureMap contacted Mayor Whitmire’s office. A representative said the mayor was not aware of the situation and has no comment on an open investigation.

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