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    Tom's hot take

    Top Chef's Tom Colicchio questions the Michelin Guide's mission in America

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 19, 2024 | 3:37 pm
    Chris Shepherd Tom Colicchio

    Chris Shepherd and Tom Colicchio on stage at House of Blues in Houston.

    Photo by Eric Sandler

    On Sunday, November 16, Top Chef head judge Tom Colicchio joined Houston chef and media personality Chris Shepherd for a conversation centered around Colicchio’s new book, Why I Cook. The two-plus hour conversation covered various moments in Colicchio's career, including his decision to work with restaurateur Danny Meyer on New York's legendary Gramercy Tavern and his decision to participate in Top Chef.

    During the audience Q&A portion, Shepherd asked Colicchio for his take on the Michelin Guide, which just released its first Texas edition earlier this month. Although Colicchio has won eight James Beard Awards, including the ultra-prestigious Outstanding Chef award in 2010, his signature restaurant Craft hasn’t held a Michelin star since 2007. Not surprisingly, the chef has some objections to the France-based restaurant rating system.

    “I grew up in New York dreaming of New York Times stars not Michelin stars,” Colicchio said. Then he continued:

    “I have a hard time with it. The Michelin star restaurants in France to get three stars was a restaurant you have to go out of your way for, that was the whole idea. Two stars was really great, also,” he said.

    “When you opened up, you got one star first. It didn’t matter who you are. And you had to get one before you got two before three. You couldn’t open and get three. The chefs who got two — you read Burgundy Stars, Bernard Loiseau talked about how when you worked to get to three he was terrified he was going to lose a star.”

    Similarly, Colicchio said he isn’t a fan of Michelin giving stars to casual restaurants such as the four Texas barbecue joints that now hold one star each. “I have a hard time with a pizzeria getting a star," he said. "Not that it’s a bad pizzeria. It should get something, but it’s not a Michelin star. I don’t think Michelin was set up to do that, and I found it very strange.”

    Colicchio also cited Michelin’s lack of transparency about its process for rating restaurants. He's skeptical about its claims to revisit restaurants on annual basis to ensure they're doing the work necessary to maintain their ratings.

    "I’d love to know how many reviewers. My understanding is there’s only about three in New York. How many restaurants do we have in New York? You’re telling me they get to those restaurants once a year," he said.

    "I know the write-ups that I had were the same write-ups three or four years in a row. I’d call up and say — cause you can call them up — ‘I haven’t served that dish in four years. Why is it in the write-up?’"

    Although Colicchio acknowledged that Michelin coming to Texas is "great for the restaurant community,” he summed up his position succinctly:

    “I’m not a big fan,” he said.

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    Oh, Donna

    New Houston cocktail bar serves up a house party fueled by music and martinis

    Eric Sandler
    Dec 15, 2025 | 5:30 pm
    Donna's cocktail bar interior
    Courtesy of Donna's
    People are flocking to Donna's.

    It hasn’t taken long for Houston cocktail fans to discover Donna’s. Ever since it opened Thanksgiving weekend, the new cocktail bar in the Heights has been packed with people eager to check out the new project from Anvil owner Bobby Heugel and veteran Houston bartender Jacki Schromm.

    Named for Schromm’s grandmother, both partners use the word “house party” to describe the kind of atmosphere they want to create at Donna’s. That party can be very energetic on busy weekend nights and a little quieter and more intimate during the week — allowing patrons to choose what kind of experience they want to have.

    Heugel and Schromm worked with collaborators on the design, music, and art for Donna’s. So far, people seem to be enjoying themselves.

    “It’s really f---ing awesome,” Schromm tells CultureMap. “It has been really remarkable to have people in this building. To see the room full is a rewarding experience. The feedback we’ve received has just been really positive.”

    To transform the former Ready Room into Donna’s, the partners collaborated with Brittany Vaughn of Garnish Design. Known for her work at establishments such as Tiny Champions, Maximo, and Milton’s, Vaughn helped divide the retro-styled cocktail bar into two distinct interior spaces. The main bar area is defined by high-top, organically-shaped tables that allow large groups to congregate or smaller groups to share without being on top of each other. The more intimate living room section features a large couch and a spacious booth.

    “There’s a lot of smart utility in the space,” Heugel explains. “We kept talking about how it’s a small space. We want to find a seat for everybody as much as possible.”

    To honor the space’s history of hosting live music, the partners worked with Chicago-based firm Uncanned on a powerful vintage stereo that includes both a reel-to-reel tape deck and a turntable. Known locally for their work at restaurants such as Nancy’s Hustle and Nobie’s, the Uncanned team gave Donna’s the ability to kick out the jams with ultra-clear sound while not being so loud that people can’t talk to each other. It also opens up the possibility of people playing their favorite albums on select nights.

    “Jacki and I both had the bold opinion when we started talking about Donna’s that cocktail bars were boring. We wanted to add more layers to the onion,” Heugel says. “Having music be here as an additional component to the bar makes the room feel really good. That’s important to us, and we’ll have some programming related to that.”

    Keli Hogsett of Austin’s CoCollect helped Schromm and Heugel select the room’s distinctive art on its walls. Heugel describes the works as museum-quality, contemporary pieces from regional artists that are a cut above what’s usually seen in bars. Hogsett will also source the art for the new restaurant Heugel and chef Justin Yu are opening next year in the former Vibrant space.

    Schromm, who partnered with Heugel after working at Anvil and Reserve 101, created the opening cocktail menu herself. One highlight is the Jacki’s Martini, a nod to the “Bobby’s Martini” served at Refuge and the “Terry’s Martini” served at Squable. It’s a 50-50 mix of gin with Cocchi Americano and Dolin Blanc vermouth. She describes it as more “sessionable” than a traditional martini.

    “I think this cocktail menu has a lot of personality,” she says. “Some of my flair, whether it’s a spirit I chose or a flavor I like.”

    Although parking on the property is limited, Heugel notes that street parking on White Oak is relatively plentiful. A nearby pay lot is available, or people can skip the issue altogether by using their favorite rideshare service.

    Of course, the adjacent restaurant space won’t stay empty for long. As CultureMap has previously reported, Austin-based pizzeria Home Slice has claimed the building for its second Houston location that will open in fall 2026.

    -----

    Donna's, 2626 White Oak Drive. Open daily from 2 pm-2 am

    Donna's cocktail bar interior

    Courtesy of Donna's

    People are flocking to Donna's.

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