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    In the navy

    Bludorn team's new Rice Village seafood restaurant sets anticipated opening date

    Eric Sandler
    Nov 11, 2022 | 1:15 pm

    One of this year’s most eagerly anticipated restaurants will open next week. Navy Blue, the new seafood restaurant from the team behind Bludorn, begins dinner service on Friday, November 18.

    Located in the former Politan Row space in Rice Village (2445 Times Blvd.), Navy Blue applies Bludorn’s template of French-influenced, contemporary cuisine to a menu grounded in fish and shellfish. Developed by chef-owner Aaron Bludorn and executive chef Jerrod Zifchak, diners will find an eclectic array of dishes that can be shared or not.

    “With Bludorn, we found that the ultimate luxury was the ability to choose your own dining experience and we plan to emphasize that even more at Navy Blue,” Bludorn said in a statement. “The ability to come in and enjoy the restaurant without feeling the need to dress up or to feel pressure to adhere to traditional standards of a fine dining restaurant is what we strived to achieve at the first concept and what we will strive to cultivate once Navy Blue launches.”

    Just as meals at Bludorn may begin with oysters three ways — raw, baked, and fried — Navy Blue offers diners multiple preparations of oysters; clams (casino, fried, or steamed); and shrimp (cocktail, fried, or BBQ). Other starters include three varieties of caviar, tuna crudo, and crab cakes.

    The trio theme continues in the entree section with the ability to order whole Dover sole as almondine, Oscar, or Provencal and lobster as boiled, grilled, or Thermidore. Other entrees include blackened snapper; swordfish au poivre; and salmon with sauce grenobloise (browned butter, capers, parsley, and lemon). Non-seafood eaters will find roast chicken and steak with chimichurri.

    In between, diners can enhance their meals with soups and salads like gumbo, mussel bisque, and a Caesar with boquerones. Seafood pastas like linguine vongole, lobster ravioli, and risotto with lobster and cuttlefish round out the offerings.

    “We wanted to create a menu with plenty of options and the same kind of approachability that guests love at Bludorn,” Bludorn said. “What oysters are to Bludorn, which are done 3 ways — fried, baked, and raw — clams, shrimp, and Dover sole are to Navy Blue. We’ll also have a running rotation of fresh fish with preparation suggestions, but guests can swap it out however they want. We are nothing if not flexible when it comes to putting our guests’ tastes first — that’s why we are here, and we love what we do.”

    Diners can have confidence in the kitchen. Not only did Zifchak succeed Bludorn as executive chef at New York’s Cafe Boulud, he also worked at Le Bernadin, New York’s three-star Michelin restaurant that’s among the country’s top destinations for seafood.

    Jerrod Zifchak Navy Blue restaurantExecutive chef Jerrod Zifchak. Photo by Michael Anthony

    Beverage options start with a seafood-friendly wine list that contains selections from France, Greece, Italy, Spain, America, and more. Cocktails include a range of martinis along with a few tiki-inspired libations.

    Inside, Bludorn, his wife Victoria Pappas Bludorn, and partner Cherif Mbodji worked with Austin-based Föda Studios, Courtney Hill Interiors, and Gensler to transform the 7,100-square-foot-space into Navy Blue. Details include tables separated by white oak partitions, a steel and driftwood installation in the bar, and a 40 seat private dining room.

    "There's not a lot seafood restaurants across the country that have gained any national notoriety. People are seeing an opportunity," Bludorn said on a recent episode of CultureMap’s “What’s Eric Eating” podcast. "Joshua Skenes did Angler, Fermín Núñez just opened Este. I think, where better than Houston to be the next one of those restaurants that opens and focuses on American seafood."

    Navy Blue restaurant Jerrod Zifchak Aaron Bludorn Cherif Mbodji

    Photo by Michael Anthony

    Navy Blue's Jerrod Zifchak, Aaron Bludorn, and Cherif Mbodji.

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    A CultureMap Exclusive

    Ronnie Killen sets closing date for his Michelin-rated comfort food eatery

    Eric Sandler
    Jun 22, 2026 | 9:48 am
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, Ryan Hildenbrand
    Photo by Eric Sandler
    Kelly Louis, Ronnie Killen, Mollye Hildebrand, and Ryan Hildenbrand at the 2025 Texas Michelin Guide ceremony.

    Since the Michelin Guide’s arrival in Texas, it has been rare for any included restaurant to close, but Killen’s, chef Ronnie Killen’s Southern restaurant that holds a Bib Gourmand designation, will serve its final meals on Sunday, July 19.

    Open since 2020 in the space previously occupied by Hickory Hollow, Killen’s serves a Southern-inspired menu based on chef Killen’s family recipes. That includes chicken fried steak and fried chicken, as well as Killen’s signature items such as barbecue and smoked pork belly bites. Last year, chef Killen recruited chef Ryan Hildebrand (formerly of Triniti) to elevate the menu and upgraded the restaurant with new furniture, dinnerware, and silverware.

    All of which is to say that chef Killen’s decision to sell the property for $3.5 million to a new owner — who plans to convert it into a gas station — comes as a bit of a surprise. As he tells CultureMap in an exclusive interview, a number of reasons played into the decision.

    Why Killen’s is closing

    First, the chef has been consolidating his operations over the past few years. Closing Killen’s follows the 2023 closure of Mexican-inspired Pearland restaurant Killen’s TMX; the 2024 shuttering of Killen’s STQ, his live fire steakhouse in Briargrove; and the 2025 closures of both of his restaurants in The Woodlands, Killen’s Steakhouse and Killen’s Barbecue.

    As Killen has discussed before, a number of injuries and surgeries have limited his mobility and caused him considerable pain. A couple months ago, he had another back procedure that’s left him unable to bend over to tie his shoes but has improved his overall health.

    “The chronic pain was so much worse than it was [before the surgery]. I’m not taking drugs everyday not to be in pain,” Killen says.

    In addition, the chef’s confidence in the restaurant’s location has also waned due to increased crime in the area. In one particularly bizarre incident, he spent $8,000 to remove graffiti by a mentally unstable woman who accused the restaurant of causing harm to her stuffed monkey.

    “When I first bought the place, I could walk to H-E-B and get stuff. I was never asked for money. or worried about getting held up,” he says. “Now, i get asked for money three different times on every corner. I think the area has gotten worse.”

    Finally, despite the Michelin recognition and new energy chef Hildebrand brought to the restaurant, it simply hasn’t performed as well financially as it needed to in order to stay open. The money he’ll make from selling the land is far more than the restaurant will earn, even over the next couple of years.

    “If the place were doing $10 million a year, I would have looked at the restaurant value instead of the land value,” Killen says.

    Ryan Hildebrand’s perspective

    Chef Hildebrand understands Killen’s business decision to cash out and move on. He went through a similar process at Triniti, his critically-acclaimed fine dining restaurant that closed in 2017. He’s committed to staying with the restaurant until it closes — at which point, he’ll be looking for a new job.

    “I’ve been an owner,” Hildebrand says. “I’ve owned the real estate. When someone makes you an offer and the restaurant isn’t doing what you wanted, you have a decision.”

    Ultimately, Hildebrand thinks the changes he made — including adding more seafood and other items to move the restaurant slightly upmarket — confused regular customers who just wanted the restaurant’s original dishes and heaping portions.

    “The challenge was to not shock the system too harshly. To hang onto the clientele that was existing and that was loyal. They were entrenched in barbecue,” Hildebrand says. “We had to maintain the identity and at the same time change things. We probably needed to rebrand the whole show. Shut it down. Change the name. Change the menu.”

    Still, he's proud of the work he did in the eight months he spent at the restaurant, and he's eager to take on his next challenge.

    "I definitely want to stay in Houston," he says. "We’re home. We’re much happier. The search starts now. You can announce it. I am wildly available."

    Closing Killen’s will leave Ronnie Killen with just five restaurants — three locations of Killen’s Barbecue in Pearland, Cypress, and Hobby Airport; Killen’s Burgers in Pearland; and Killen’s Steakhouse, which is currently closed for renovations that Ronnie Killen hopes will help it earn a Michelin star (more on that in the weeks to come).

    “It’s just business and timing,” Killen says. “Trust me, it’s very hard. That place means so much to me. It was built with recipes that my grandmother and my godmother made. It was the food I ate as a kid that made me want to become a chef.”

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