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    mala at m-k-t

    Acclaimed Chinese restaurant’s new Heights location opens with stunning design details and 'fantastic' menu

    Eric Sandler
    Sep 20, 2022 | 3:16 pm
    Mala Sichuan Bistro MKT Heights interior

    The new Mala features a floating pagoda roof and hanging lanterns.

    Photos by Bill Krampitz for TK Images

    Cori Xiong is extremely proud of the newest location of Mala Sichuan Bistro. The acclaimed Chinese eatery recently opened its fifth Houston restaurant in the M-K-T Heights mixed-use development.

    “There’s a Chinese saying that it takes 10 years to wield a great sword,” Xiong tells CultureMap. “This restaurant is the sword that I took 10 years to wield.”

    More than the day-to-day of restaurant operations — she and her husband and business partner Heng Chen have that part down — the “great sword” refers to the restaurant’s design. Mala Sichuan has come a long way from its original Chinatown location, a second generation space that the couple furnished as economically as possible.

    “I have more resources to build more beautiful restaurants that’s more close to what I had in mind,” she says. “It has the design and architectural features we have now.”

    Working with designer Gin Braverman of Gin Design Group, Xiong realized her vision of a restaurant that incorporates traditional Chinese structures as well as nods to the Sichuan province and her hometown of Chengdu. They include a bamboo installation modeled after an abacus, known as the first calculator, and lighting fixtures inspired by kongming lanterns, which are used during festivals to send wishes to the sky, Xiong explains.

    “Working with Cori was intensely gratifying,” Braverman says. “Her strict attention to detail in keeping all of the elements truly Sichuan was so educational. She had a very clear vision to create this modern and dramatic interpretation of Sichuan culture, and we were excited to help bring her vision to life.”

    Xiong cites a floating pagoda roof as one element she’s particularly proud of. Created by a Chinese craftsman, the structure came to America by boat. The two pieces just fit through the restaurant’s doors.

    “It’s all made by what is called a mortice and tenon. Its ancient carpentry without using nails or glue. It’s like a 3D puzzle with wood,” Xiong says. “When they’re not installed, you’d have seen they were like puzzle pieces.”

    Expect to see a couple of eye-catching elements on Instagram: specifically, a wall of waving money cats — matched with the phrase “throw your hands up if the Sichuan got your tongue” — and face-changing “Bian Lian” masks from the Sichuan opera.

    As for the food, Xiong notes that Mala has mostly stabilized its menu over the years, which is good news for anyone who likes staples like red oil dumplings, spicy and crispy chicken, and cumin lamb. The new location revives a dish called “Little fantastic chicken,” a bone-in, skin-on chicken leg quarter that’s stir-fried and served with jalapeños and fermented black bean sauce.

    Other new dishes include “Christmas tree bass,” that derives its name from its plating style and adornment with red and green peppers. She also recommends the mayo prawns that are served with a chili dip that sets it apart from the version served at other Sichuan restaurants.

    For now, the new Mala will serve a similar beer and wine selection to the Montrose location. Veteran bartender Chris Frankel is developing Mala’s first ever cocktail menu. It will be centered around light, refreshing drinks that both incorporate Chinese and East Asian ingredients and pair well with spicy Sichuan food.

    When it opened in 2011, Mala Sichuan was among the first restaurants in Houston to serve traditional Sichuan dishes. Xiong notes that the city’s diners have come a long way in 11 years.

    “We still have a lot of people who have never experienced Sichuan before, but I feel like people are more opened minded and are less surprised, ‘wow, this is something new,’” she says.

    “I think people are used to experiencing new things. I think that’s a great change.”

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    What's Eric Eating Episodes 518 and 519

    Meet the men behind River Oaks' new destination for bowls and broth

    CultureMap Staff
    Dec 19, 2025 | 4:40 pm
    Honest Mary's restaurant exterior
    Photo by Becca Wright
    Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

    On this week’s episode of “What’s Eric Eating,” Honest Mary’s founder Nelson Monteith and COO Andrew Wiseman joined CultureMap editor Eric Sandler to discuss the Austin-based restaurant that just opened its first Houston location in the River Oaks Shopping Center (2047-A West Gray St).



    Monteith shares that he started the restaurant in 2017 in order to fulfill his vision of a restaurant which could serve food that’s fast, fresh, and affordable. A trained chef who operated pioneering Austin restaurant Contigo, Wiseman joined the group to bring both culinary expertise and operational acumen to the grouping company.

    Part of what sets Honest Mary’s apart is that diners can add cooked vegetables to the rice and proteins at the heart of every bowl. The “Market Sides” section includes an array of roasted vegetables — including sweet potatoes, cauliflower, broccoli, beets, and Brussels sprouts — as well as black beans, maple-glazed carrots, and green lentils. Bowls can be further enhanced with toppings such as Texas pecans, crispy chickpeas, goat cheese, avocado, and apples as well as sauces such as creamy poblano, cashew lime crema, sesame vinaigrette, spicy peanut, chimichurri and apple cider vinaigrette

    Monteith explains that looking at the ingredients on display usually inspires him when he’s deciding what to eat at Honest Mary’s.

    “I will almost always look at the line and see what looks fresh and good,” Monteith says. “Today, I got the salted kale with white rice. Then, I got garlic-pepper steak. I added on lentils — they’re my go-to in the winter. They blend everything together, and I love it Then Brussels sprouts looked green. I got some jalapenos. Avocados, cause that’s healthy. Then I got the chimichurri sauce.”

    Honest Mary’s is also known for its hearty brothers, a classic chicken and a seaweed and mushroom. Sandler raves about the chicken broth to Wiseheart, who shares how it’s made.

    “We spent six or seven months testing recipes and drinking it ourselves to see if it’s a good idea,” Wiseman says. “I talk about it as a great complement to the menu. It’s healthy. It’s really simple. Most of the kitchens I came up with were rooted in French cuisine. This is just chicken stock with salt in it.”

    Listen to the full episode to hear more about Honest Mary’s plans for additional locations in Houston and Dallas. Then Monteith asks a Sandler a few questions about the Houston dining scene.



    In this week’s other episode, Sandler and co-host Mary Clarkson discuss the news of the week. Their topics include Home Slice Pizza opening a new location in the Heights; the closures of Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy and Killen’s Barbecue in The Woodlands; and Esquire including ChòpnBlok on its list of America’s best new restaurants.

    In the restaurant of the week segment, the two friends discuss their recent meal at Hypsi, the Italian restaurant in the newly-opened Hotel Daphne. Listen to the episode to hear their favorite dishes and other thoughts on the meal.

    -----

    Subscribe to "What's Eric Eating" on Apple podcasts, Spotify, or wherever you listen to podcasts. Hear it Sunday at 9 am on ESPN 97.5.



    Honest Mary's restaurant exterior

    Photo by Becca Wright

    Find Honest Mary's in the River Oaks Shopping Center.

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